Road bike clothing - from head to toe: Cooling, protective and good-looking!
Matthias Borchers
· 26.06.2021
Head
Many people use a road bike helmet, helmet cap or racing cap and goggles as a fashion statement, but the most important job of these parts on the bike is to protect the head or eyes.
Racing bike helmets consist of a foamed polystyrene body with ventilation slits, enclosed in a plastic shell. They can be adjusted to fit the head using a strap system with a width-adjustable head ring and length-adjustable straps. Lightweight models weigh 200 grams, heavy ones almost twice as much; helmets from brand manufacturers cost around 80 to 300 euros.
The head circumference is decisive for the right size. For most adults, it is between 55 and 58 centimetres, which usually corresponds to size M. The helmet can also be customised with Velcro pads of different thicknesses. Helmet straps quickly become greasy from sweat - so it is helpful if they can be removed for washing. The strap fastener should be easy to operate without looking in the mirror.
Aerodynamically optimised helmets save a few watts of pedalling power due to their more closed shell, but are usually a little heavier and allow less air to reach the head through the small openings. This can be annoying in summer, but some people appreciate the better insulation in autumn and winter. There is hardly any difference between aero and normal helmets in terms of protection.
What makes cycling glasses so special
Cycling goggles play a key role in your cycling style, but they also have to work. This includes keeping out draughts and insects and protecting the eyes from UV rays and glare. The tint of sunglasses is divided into five classes from 0 to 4; category 2 means normal glare protection for summer days in Central Europe and is well suited for cycling. In difficult light conditions in autumn and winter, yellow or orange tinted lenses increase the contrasts. Adjustable and ideally interchangeable nose bridges and temples are an advantage. This not only allows the fit to be individually corrected; sweat quickly makes rubberised parts unsightly or even corrodes them. So it's good to be able to replace them. After all, cycling glasses cost between 40 and well over 200 euros.
Basic knowledge: Helmet and goggles during the fitting
The helmet fits and sits correctly when you lean forwards and it remains on your head despite the straps being open. Also make sure that there is enough room to adjust the head width to compensate for a cap underneath. Try on new goggles together with your helmet. The frames of large goggles can bump against the helmet, causing pressure on the nose. Eyeglass temples can collide with the helmet's adjustment system.
Insider knowledge: Helmets for road cycling
In Europe, all bicycle helmets must fulfil the EN 1078 test standard, according to which a helmet - among other things - must not exceed an acceleration of 250 g (acceleration due to gravity) in the event of a defined impact. However, the established standard does not cover the functionality of the new MIPS helmets (Multi-Directional Impact Protection System). An additional sliding layer between the head and helmet shell is designed to minimise dangerous rotational forces in the event of an angled impact. In the latest TOUR helmet test, we were able to prove that the technology works. MIPS helmets are somewhat heavier, but perform better in terms of shock absorption and rotational load.
Upper body
Vest, jersey, waistcoat, jacket - and arm warmers: that's all you need as a basic wardrobe for road cycling. Provided you find the right products.
Shift work only brings advantages in cycling: in the form of cleverly combined layers of modern functional clothing. This means you are equipped for all weathers, from the heat of a summer race to winter base training. The basis is a good vest, which is a true functional miracle: it forms a warming air cushion against the cold and cools in the heat because it quickly absorbs sweat and releases it to the layer above, where it can evaporate. It also protects you from prying eyes under very thin, light-coloured summer jerseys. And because synthetic fibres can quickly become smelly, more and more manufacturers are using merino wool, either mixed in or in its pure form.
Features of a good road bike jersey
The jersey does not have to fit well when standing, but on the bike. This means that it is cut longer at the back than at the front and hugs the body without creases in a racing bike position without constricting. The back pockets should be easily accessible. If the fabric is too elasticated, packed pockets will pull the jersey down unattractively and the jersey waistband will stick out. Another detail that can quickly become annoying is the zip; ideally, it should run smoothly in both directions and can be operated with one hand. Modern, more race-orientated jerseys often no longer have a stand-up collar. Not everyone likes the naked feeling at the neck; in addition, vests must then be cut out larger, otherwise they will peek out from under the edge. A waistcoat or rain jacket made of wind and water-repellent or waterproof material completes the outfit for the upper body. Almost their most important feature: they must fit into the jersey pocket when folded up small. Also important: bright colours or at least plenty of reflective material to ensure you are clearly visible.
Basic knowledge: Arm warmers
The inconspicuous sleeves are an ingenious detail for a racing bike outfit. They are available in thin and thicker fabrics and also with a windstopper membrane, which makes them windproof and water-repellent. If they are cut for an angled arm position, this reduces the formation of creases on the elbows and bends. They are the right length and reach over the ankle and under the armpit. Silicone prints on the wheels prevent annoying slipping. Pro tip: Best worn over jersey sleeves so that you can easily pull them back up if they slip down.
Insider knowledge: Aerodynamics
Cycling clothing has a considerable influence on the aerodynamics of a racing cyclist. At a speed of 45 km/h, under optimal and constant conditions, an aerodynamically optimised one-piece can save a good 20 watts of power compared to a conventional, tight-fitting combination of shorts and jersey - at an additional cost of a good 100 euros. By way of comparison, a very good aero racing bike requires around 35 watts less from the rider for the same speed than a conventional racing bike, but usually costs many times more.
Buttocks & legs
In road cycling, cycling shorts are the most important item of clothing - and at the same time a complex construction in which the cut, material, features and padding have to fit together.
Cycling shorts are available as waistband shorts and with integrated straps. The latter are the much more common variant; however, some cyclists and especially some women still prefer to wear waistband shorts: they don't like it when the straps run over the chest and chafe and they feel uncomfortable having to take off almost all their clothes when going to the toilet. There are now constructive approaches to eliminating the disadvantages of bib shorts for women - for example, mono straps that run between the breasts and shorts that can be opened at the back with discreetly attached devices.
That shows: Cycling shorts are a highly technical product. The bibs, for example, are cut much wider than before and are almost entirely made of thin, breathable material that lies flat and does not constrict. The leg cuffs are also wide, elasticated and seam-free. It is important that the fabric in the seat area is tight enough to hold the seat pad in place.
Upholstery gauge
The same applies to the padding as to the saddle: thick and soft feels good under finger pressure, but creates a spongy, nappy-like feeling when cycling. Thinner and compact padding is more comfortable in the long term and experience has shown that it provides better protection against pressure points and chafing. Black trousers may look boring, but they are resistant to stains. Light-coloured or even white trousers get a grey haze from road dirt when riding in the rain, which does not come out.
Basic knowledge: The right seat cushion
Some manufacturers offer their trousers with seat pads of different widths. As with the saddle, the width of the sit bones helps you choose the right width; two centimetres more in the padding is okay. Typical values for the sit bone distance are between 10 and 15 centimetres. The measurement is simple: sit on a piece of corrugated cardboard on a hard surface. The sit bones are marked on it as small depressions, the distance between which is measured from centre to centre.
Insider knowledge: Seat cream
The cycling shorts are worn directly on the skin. Despite the complex design of the anatomically moulded padding, the use of Seat cream is highly recommended, especially if you're getting back on your bike after a long time or during a multi-day cycle tour where you'll be in the saddle for an unusually long time every day. If you're not at all comfortable with getting on your bike bare: There are also special padded cycling pants, which are best combined with unpadded shorts.
Hands & Feet
The hands control the road bike, the feet transfer the leg power to the pedals. That's why grip and cushioning are important for gloves, and a comfortable fit and efficient power transfer for road bike shoes.
There are supposed to be road cyclists who never get on their bikes without gloves. They are probably the ones who have learnt the hard way from a fall and slid over the tarmac with unprotected hands. Short-fingered gloves are therefore a real "essential", whose padding on the palm should not only dampen vibrations but also be as abrasion-resistant as possible. It is not uncommon for cyclists to have problems with their hands falling asleep or pressure pain in the carpal tunnel; gloves can also protect against this. Protection from the cold and wet is the other big glove issue - then for the long-fingered department. Thin long-fingered gloves, for example made from vapour-permeable merino wool, are a good choice for cool morning and evening rides or mountain pass descents. Minimalist toe caps are a surprisingly effective way of protecting your feet from cooling down.
Problem case foot
Unlike shorts or jerseys, cycling shoes often only reveal their true qualities after many hours on the bike. What still feels comfortable on the after-work ride can maltreat your feet like a vice at the end of a long day of cycling; burning soles, pressure and chafing are the result. This is because the foot, bound in the shoe and on the pedal, has hardly any room for compensatory movement and also becomes thicker over the course of the day. Customisable insoles can provide a remedy.
Basic knowledge: Fitting road bike shoes
As with any shoe, we recommend trying on cycling shoes in the late afternoon or evening, as your feet expand during the day, similar to pedalling on a road bike. If you try them on in the morning, you can simulate the effect with thick socks.
Insider knowledge: Sole material
The sole hardness has an influence on power transmission and also on the service life of the shoe. Our experience shows: The stiffer the sole, the more efficient the pedalling and the more durable the shoe construction. Glass fibre-reinforced nylon soles, which are usually used in cheaper cycling shoes, flex a little more than genuine carbon soles, which are also lighter. The bandwidth, measured under a test load of 20 kilograms, ranges from a tenth of a millimetre for carbon soles to several millimetres for plastic soles. Feet tire more quickly on flexible soles and the soles become crooked over time.
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Matthias Borchers
Editor
