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Many road cyclists not only enjoy riding, but also wrenching. It is simply a great feeling to be able to master a few basic steps when adjusting and repairing the bike yourself. In addition to the necessary know-how, you also need the right tools. But which tool is the right one for interested amateurs or ambitious mechanics? And is it worth investing in ready-made tool sets, for example from Procraft or Topeak?
For occasional mechanics who want to carry out minor work such as adjusting the saddle, handlebars, brakes or gears, a simple tool set consisting of Allen and Torx spanners plus a screwdriver is sufficient. Changing classic clincher tyres with inner tubes can be done quickly with an additional robust tyre lever and a little force. Modern racers with hydraulic disc brakes, internally routed cables and tubeless tyres, on the other hand, require specialist knowledge and one or two special tools. Our professional mechanics in the TOUR workshop, who strip and measure a good hundred current racers down to the frame over the course of a season, are familiar with every tightening job from years of experience and share their knowledge: Before disc brakes, electric gears, new bottom bracket standards or integrated handlebar-stem cockpits became standard, the world of screwdrivers was still in order - or at least less demanding. Modern racers may look much tidier than racing bikes with mechanical shifting, drive and braking technology - but at the cost of significantly more complicated and time-consuming maintenance and repairs. Accordingly, the choice of tool set also depends on the requirements of your own bike - and what you think you are capable of. Only once these questions have been answered will it be possible to decide how long the tool shopping list will be. And whether it ends up being 50 or 500 euros or more is also a matter of taste - after all, tools are the jewellery of the mechanic.
Our tool board shows a wide range of tools, from fork ring spanners and screwdrivers to special sockets for fitting SRAM bottom brackets. On the left-hand side of the board you will find the unspecific all-rounders from the DIY store, while the special tools for bicycles are mainly parked on the right-hand side
Nothing works without them. Phillips and slotted head models in different sizes are indispensable. A hard blade and a handle with a good grip are important so that even tight screws can be easily loosened >> e.g. available here.
Some people may know the fork ring spanner as an open-end spanner. There are no longer many tasks on the road bike for classic spanners. Combination spanner, but they are part of the basic set, for example for mounting old-style saddle clamps or mudguards.
The most frequently required tool. It's worth investing in good quality here. Everything from 2.5 to 10 millimetre screws can be found on the bike. High-quality sets can cost 20 to 30 euros >> e.g. available here.
Stems, chainrings and brake callipers are increasingly being held in place by Torx screws instead of hexagon socket screws. Their advantage is that they offer the tool head more contact surface and are less likely to overtighten. Before fitting the spanner, always check that the head is free of dirt >> e.g. available here.
When servicing bearings or installing crank arms, it can be used to loosen stuck parts and bolts without damaging the sensitive surface. To drive out steering or bottom bracket bearings using a mandrel, the Classic hammer the right choice.
One Water pump pliers and a Flat nose pliers are suitable for small and large holding jobs, for example to tighten a Bowden cable on a brake or derailleur.
The Side cutter is used to cut cable ties, for example. If the cutting edges are sharp and free of marks, they can also be used to cut off the core of the Bowden cable.
Anyone who wraps their own handlebar tape knows that the adhesive strips supplied often adhere poorly; this can be remedied by using classic Insulating tape.
With Cable ties Many things can be fixed on the road, such as a loose mudguard attachment or a defective saddlebag fastener.
For a nice finish to the handlebar tape, a clean diagonal cut is required on the last stroke. This is best done with sharp scissors with a long cutting edge. A sharp Cutter opens every spare parts packaging.
If you want to buy or order a replacement bolt or determine the exact measurement of the handlebars or seat post, you should buy a caliper gauge. Inexpensive models with a vernier scale instead of a digital display cost from 20 euros >> e.g. available here.
With the slim Pedal spanner and its long lever arm, any pedal with a 15 mm hexagon can be easily released.
Thanks to its round-ground cutting edges, the metal protective cover does not bend as easily as when cutting with normal diagonal cutters >> e.g. available here.
These pliers can be used to hold the open chain in position against the spring force of the rear derailleur to connect it to the chain lock >> e.g. available here.
To change the cassette, you need Chain counterholder or -Whipto lock the cassette, as well as a toggle with a suitable multi-tooth nut for Shimano (SRAM) or Campagnolo to loosen the end nut.
Without a disc in the brake calliper, there is a risk that the pistons will be pressed together when the brake lever is accidentally pressed and the brake disc will not fit back in. Protect against this small wedgesthat block the brake pistons. With Valve cap spanner is used to check the tight fit of valve inserts. Tyre lever should always be as rigid as possible, tubeless tyres often sit particularly tightly on the rim.
Each bottom bracket standard requires a special tool for assembly. It is best to ask for the appropriate tool when buying the bike in the shop.
With the Chain riveters The chain rivet pins can be pressed out at any point on the chain (except at the locking pin) and the new locking rivet pressed in.
Hand-tight is relative; high-quality parts should be tightened exactly to the specified torque. Professional tools can be expensive, Favourable models cost from around 30 euros.
It can save a lot of money. Worn chains demolish the sprocket and chainring. The chain gauge allows you to recognise chain wear in good time. From 10 euros >> e.g. available here.
There is no general answer to the question of whether it is worth investing in ready-made tool sets. If you already have a basic stock of tools, you certainly don't need a complete case. In that case, there will be a lot of duplication. Anyone new to the field of bike repair can be one - or even more - glances in the direction of complete sets.
In our in-house TOUR workshop and test cellar, our mechanics dismantle and reassemble the latest bikes day in, day out. This is the only way we can carry out our racing bike lab tests. It goes without saying that a lot of experience with tools and different bikes comes together. Strictly speaking, it currently looks like this: Four heads, eight hands and 100 years of professional experience.
Racers with internally routed cables have annoyed Hubert John, a trained car mechanic, for the longest time. When rebuilding the dismantled test bikes, the cables often don't want to be threaded back through the frame tubes to their old position. With the help of a one millimetre thick, stiff wire as a guide, they find their way back to where they belong.
Hans-Peter Ettenberger is not a fan of riveted chains; on his own bikes, he converts all link strands to suitable chain locks, for example from KMC. To keep a firm grip on the chain, the master industrial mechanic uses chain link pliers, which simplify handling and keep his fingers clean.
Straps from pedal hooks can be lashed very tightly. Matthias Fischer, a trained carpenter and civil engineer, utilises this property to fix the left crank arm to the chain stay as a counter bearing when loosening the crankset fixing bolt. This works with every crank model and protects the paint surface.
Mike Schinke is certain that the cable tie will never run out. To maximise the tension of the strap, the master bike mechanic uses pliers that are actually intended for tensioning brake or gear cables. Unlike with flat or needle-nose pliers, the long end does not tear off during tensioning and the binder clamps extremely tightly.

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