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The weather records prove it: for twelve years now, there has not been a winter in which the average temperature has been below zero degrees. What is increasingly frustrating for winter sports enthusiasts because the snow cover in the mountains is becoming thinner and thinner or even more artificial, plays into the hands of us bikers with the positive effect of an extended cycling season.
Nevertheless, having fun on your road bike in winter is still a question of having the right equipment, which you will find on the following pages. We have tested the latest winter shoes and gloves and provide valuable tips on choosing the right clothing. We also shed light on dark roads and gravel paths with our lamp buying advice. So there really are no more excuses for cancelling your winter training, even if the temperature does drop below freezing.
Between autumn and spring, weatherproof winter shoes are the insurance for warm and dry toes. We generally recommend the use of mountain bike shoes for winter use, even for road bikes, as they offer more grip when running and MTB pedals are more dirt-resistant than the road bike version. The two flat pedal models from Northwave and Vaude should appeal to those who prefer to ride without a click.
The 45Nrth Ragnarök is massive, heavy and as robust as a Viking shield. The two straps of the Boa fastener put a lot of traction on your feet and the sole is very stiff, allowing you to pedal swiftly through the winter landscape. The wide profile provides grip and a secure stance on the pedals and off-road. However, the 45Nrth MTB winter shoes aren't the ultimate in warmth, and water penetrates the seams in heavy rain. Thanks to the robust construction, the shoe hardly flexes when pedalling or running - it is therefore not a comfort miracle.
Warm, grippy, waterproof - with the G.Ice-Storm, Gaerne delivers absolutely recommendable winter shoes made in Italy. The upper material is supple and flexible, can be ideally adjusted to the foot using the Boa dial and Velcro fastener and thus offers a high level of comfort. Thanks to the wide-opening entry, you can slip smoothly into the shoe. The Vibram sole combines good power transmission with high grip when walking. So everything is perfect? Almost: the shaft could be a little higher. In addition, the very narrow fit is unlikely to suit all feet.
With the Blaze, Giro is completely rethinking winter shoes and combining a "normal" race shoe with a kind of waterproof cover. Primaloft lining and an insulated insole provide the necessary warmth. The wearing comfort is phenomenal for a winter shoe. The outer skin reliably blocks out dirt and water - but the Giro does leak in constant rain. Unfortunately, the power transmission under the very flexible upper material is poor, and the tread with little grip is annoying when walking.
Similar to the Giro, the Shimano is also based on a classic racing shoe. Weather protection is provided by a large Velcro cover, which also makes getting into the shoe much easier. As is typical for Shimano, the fit is very successful and comfortable. The MW7 MTB winter shoes transfer power well to the pedals and offer a lot of flex when pedalling despite the high neoprene shaft - a top training partner for cold and wet weather, especially as they reliably repel rain. Only one seam intersection did not remain permanently sealed. The sole is narrow and tippy and not made for running.
Among the numerous winter shoes from the Italians, the Multicross is finally a flat pedal model. The fit, workmanship and construction are outstanding. The high neoprene shaft is absolutely waterproof and the Vibram sole provides plenty of power and grip on the pedals. Two eyelets help you get into the narrow upper, but the twist lock is fiddly - especially with thick gloves. This penalises the handling. The treadless sole of the MTB winter shoes offers little grip on slippery roots or rocks.
Reinforced all round and made with Cordura fabric, the Vaude is also suitable for rough terrain. Thanks to the waffle structure, the profile of the MTB winter shoes also grips well on the ground. However, the grip on the pedals is only mediocre, as is the power transmission. Warmly lined with Primaloft and equipped with a Sympatex membrane, they effortlessly defy wind and weather - water only penetrated the toes in very heavy rain. The fit is quite wide and the shoe cannot be optimally adjusted due to the stubborn material. Trying them on beforehand is a must!
We tested five pairs of gloves that not only keep you warm and dry, but also allow you to operate your smartphone and GPS devices.
There is now a large selection of touchscreen-compatible long-fingered gloves. Our five test candidates cost between €40 and €80. The Canyon model is the cheapest, while the Hestra costs twice as much. Most models are based on the layered principle of lining, vapour-permeable membrane and water-repellent outer shell to protect the hands from wind and rain. There are big differences in the touch function. Not all of the specially equipped fingertips cope equally well with all display surfaces.
Best price-performance ratio; normal fit, short, slightly tight waistband; very good weather protection; reliable touch function thanks to well-conducting thumb and index fingertips; many features including terrycloth thumb.
Fits normal to large; robust structure, well-padded palm; adjustable waist; very good touch properties with three fingers on the left and right; top weather protection; most expensive model in the test.
Fits normal to narrow, for slim and long fingers, nice long cuff; Roubaix lining warms well, top weather protection; typing and swiping worked very well, scrolling sometimes took two attempts.
Freezing, sweating, freezing - finding the right clothing in winter is a challenge and in some cases less is actually more. We tested softshell suits for winter.
The sleeves offer plenty of room for strong arms, the back is long enough and the back pockets and zips are easy to use.
The pad is comparatively large and feels a little spongy when pedalling in the elasticated trousers; for mild and dry days.
Technically identical to the women's model, the Polartec lining feels very fluffy, Agu is very economical with reflective material.
From size M upwards, the padding fits proportionally to the trousers, it could be a little softer; weather protection and insulation are poor.
Good racing bike cut, zips and pockets are easy to use; no zip pocket, medium insulation.
The padding fits well, very comfortable to wear, great straps, zips at the bottom make it easier to put on; not warm.
Technically identical to the women's model; elasticated and comfortable, high-cut collar.
Windbreaker at the front provides effective protection from the wind; not as easy to put on as the women's trousers.
Very good racing bike cut; the long back provides good protection against splash water, 5 jersey pockets, 2 zip pockets, great cuffs.
Very elastic, does not hold the padding in place well and feels spongy, only suitable for dry and mild days.
Very good racing bike cut; the long back provides good protection against splash water; extras such as inner waistcoat and Buff, very heavy, very warm. Best men's set
Comfortable fit, very good straps; the narrow padding feels a little spongy.
The extremities suffer most from the cold. It is particularly important to protect them in winter. Proven and well thought-out for underneath.
Warm and windproof all round, covers the head extensively, pressure points on forehead and temples possible, hardly any wind noise
All-round weather protection in headband shape, vapour permeable at the top, high wearing comfort, all-round fit, available in two sizes, also in signal colour, makes wind noise
All-round windproof and water-repellent, great wearing comfort without pressure points, covers the head extensively, makes wind noise, two sizes available
The very fine and tightly knitted sock from Endura is made from a mix of five different yarns, including silk and one based on Primaloft Gold, a wadding-like material. This makes the sock very comfortable to wear, with a slight feeling of compression, although the shaft can pinch a little on thick calves. The sock insulates well without being bulky in the shoe; the fibre mix is easy to care for and requires no special treatment.
The deep winter knit made from a lot of merino wool feels nice and warm in the hand, but needs a lot of space in the shoe; if it's too tight, it no longer insulates well. The material is not particularly elasticated, but fits well on normal feet and ankles. One argument in favour of merino is that it doesn't smell much, but you have to wash the natural fibre more carefully and the sweat transport is not as good as with textiles made from synthetic fibres.
The brand is currently best known among runners and hikers. The highlight of the Coolmesh II Crew is the two layers of fabric, which are designed to prevent blisters on the feet. Cyclists tend to have fewer problems with this; the pleasantly light and very robust sock insulates very well (application range between 5 and 15 degrees). A version with a short shaft is available for milder temperatures.
To ensure that the Therm-ic heating insoles fit perfectly into the cycling shoe, they must be cut to size with sharp scissors. You should take your time to do this so that the sole fits snugly and without slipping in the shoe. In the laboratory test, the sole warms up to 50 degrees at the highest setting and 30 degrees at the lowest. That sounds like a lot at first, but is put into perspective when sub-zero temperatures suck the heat out of the shoe.
Lights are mandatory on German roads. But if you also want to turn off the cycle path onto the trail, you need more light than ordinary StVZO lamps provide. They must be aimed in such a way that they do not dazzle oncoming traffic. Conversely, this means that anything above handlebar height remains invisible to bikers in the forest. The solution: spotlights with high beam. They cast their light cone far above the glare-free cut-off line so that the fun doesn't come to an abrupt end at the next branch. Lupine and Supernova have two lights in their range that cut a veritable tunnel of light into the terrain and are available both with a separate battery and with a connection to the e-bike battery.
The headlight can be mounted on or under the handlebars thanks to the rotating reflector; it gets hot quickly under full load and requires appropriate cooling; the indicator in the pressure switch provides rough information about the battery level; long reserve
Longest light duration, but without reserve, more than 6 hours charging time; indicator with very simple charge level display; the headlamp gets less hot than the previous model, its holder can be flexibly adjusted.
The charge level indicator provides precise information, a combination switch for the optional rear light is integrated; good reserve; the mounting rubber is a little short, the headlight cannot be swivelled; very light, inexpensive.
The best display paired with a simple operating concept: light intensity, charge level with remaining time display in hours and minutes plus time; the somewhat clunky holder only offers a small swivelling range.
The most homogeneous light profile, practical remote control, relatively short burn time with high beam; the optional double-size battery with 70 watt hours lasts twice as long, but costs 190 euros, compact and top-quality workmanship.
Relatively large but lightweight headlight, top workmanship, very good light profile from 20 km/h; fade light produces a great light profile. The cable for the remote control is a little short, a rear light can be connected.
If you train outside on your road bike in winter, there are a few things you should know so that the cold doesn't cause any damage.
If you have a cold or other infection, sport is prohibited. If you get on your racing bike even though you are ill, you firstly risk making the infection worse. Secondly, the pathogen can attach itself to the heart valves and cause life-threatening myocarditis. In any case, training is not effective in a weakened state. So it's better to rest and get back on the pedals a few days later!
By the beginning of November at the latest, the cyclists split into four groups. A few - mostly those who earn money from it - fly into the sun and spend the winter there. Others get on their bikes and only get off again when the crocuses are in bloom. Many put the bike in the cellar while the clocks are on winter time. The rest dress warmly. And continue to train outside. "I prefer to ride in the summer, but there's something to be said for winter rides," says Sebastian Grospitz, regional coach of the Bavarian U19 riders.
Then he pulls out a saying that generations of coaches before him have said, but which is true: "Winners are made in winter. If you want to go to Mallorca in April, for example, you should ride outside in the months beforehand and collect enough kilometres." However, there are a few things to bear in mind if you want to get out on the saddle in the cold. Firstly, there is the wind chill effect, which can turn plus temperatures into frost (see graphic, below). On the other hand, your hands, arms, feet and face are particularly exposed to the cold when riding a road bike.
And then there's the fact that on winter rides, damn cold air flows into your lungs. French and Belgian scientists confirm the following after conducting studies on professional cyclists: "In cold conditions, it is advisable to develop warm-up, hydration and clothing strategies." And what might these look like? Smart winter training actually starts with route planning.
Grospitz recommends, for example, checking the weather forecast more carefully than usual before setting off and choosing your route: "Especially in winter, you shouldn't just set off into the unknown, but choose routes that you can judge well. You should also find out the wind direction and speed beforehand and adapt your route and clothing accordingly." The wind chill effect should not be underestimated: At speeds of 30 kilometres per hour, zero degrees feels like minus six.
If there is a headwind, it gets even icier. However, the perception of temperature is subjective, says Grospitz: "While some people feel cold at ten degrees, others don't find five degrees so bad. And two degrees naturally feels very different in drizzle than in sunshine." Anyone travelling in the mountains must not forget that temperatures are lower at the top: Depending on the air pressure, it gets between six and ten degrees colder for every 1000 metres of altitude.
Although you often start off shivering on a road bike in winter, according to Grospitz, amateur cyclists don't necessarily need to warm up beforehand, even in the cold. "Most people only ride in the GA1 range in winter anyway and don't do any intervals." The coach cannot give a generalised answer to the question of how long a winter ride should last: "It depends on your fitness, your goal and your ability to suffer. My juniors from the Bavarian squad also ride for four or five hours in winter, weather permitting. But they have to and they're used to it." All those who don't have to should ask themselves: is it really necessary to ride four hours outside in the rain in January, or is less enough? "It depends on the destination, but for most people it doesn't have to be more than two hours in winter," says Grospitz.
This is also due to the fact that the cool temperatures are an additional strain on the body. "When it's cold, the body needs a lot of energy to maintain the optimum temperature inside," explains Dr Milan Dinic, a sports physician and cardiologist from Munich. "Freezing accelerates the breakdown of glycogen, which is stored in the liver and muscles to provide energy." Calorie consumption is correspondingly high during winter training. "Studies have shown that prolonged freezing doubles fat burning and even increases the oxidation of carbohydrates sevenfold," says Dinic.
For winter cyclists, this means it's better to pack one more energy bar in your jersey pocket. The winter weather also affects your water balance. "In cold temperatures, you have to hydrate more often," explains Dinic. "Because you also lose more fluid through breathing than in summer due to the rather dry winter air, it is also important to drink regularly on the road in cold weather," explains Dinic. It is true that the muscle work of the legs when cycling acts like an internal heating plant.
Nevertheless, the body reacts the same way it always reacts to cold when travelling on a road bike: In order to keep the heat in the centre of the body and protect vital organs such as the heart and lungs, it reduces the blood supply to the surface of the skin and in the extremities (see chart below). "The result is ice-cold, numb hands and feet and therefore the risk of poor bike control," warns Dinic. "Braking and shifting gears in particular becomes more difficult and the risk of accidents increases." The aim is therefore to keep hands and feet warm for as long as possible on winter rides.

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