Three, two, one: Checklist for the start of the season on a road bike

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10. where is my bike?

Ok, this question is perhaps not meant quite seriously among racing cyclists, quite a few have even parked their two-wheeled treasure in the parlour over the winter so that it doesn't freeze. But some may have put it in the garage after the last ride in autumn with the plan to clean it later - and the bike is still waiting for that today. So, when it's finally time to get back on the road next weekend, it's time to dust off the bike and take a closer look at whether everything is still working reliably and safely. This leads to the next and most important step in the countdown, namely the:

9. cleaning

Whether only slightly dusty or still covered in crispy clay from the last late autumn ride: now is wash day. A bucket of water with a drop of washing-up liquid, a brush, sponge and cloth - and off you go. Detailed cleaning instructions can be found here, for example. Wash the entire bike with plenty of water and then dry it. This is literally the best way to go round every part of the wheel and check that everything is in order. Look for discolouration or cracks in the paint, check the concentricity of the wheels and the tension of the spokes by gripping two spokes at a time on one side of the wheel with your thumb and forefinger and pressing them together. You will notice whether individual spokes are possibly loose and need to be tightened (by a specialist if in doubt). Also check whether the handlebars can be turned smoothly and without play from one side to the other. If you take particularly good care of your speedster, now would be a good time to protect the paintwork from moisture and dirt using spray wax, a soft cotton cloth and muscle grease. When everything is sparkling and shiny, it's time to move on to the next point:

8. oil the chain

Of course: Before dripping new oil onto the chain, you should thoroughly remove the old oil. This can be done roughly by gripping the lower chain centre with a cloth soaked in oil and turning the right-hand crank. The chain, chainrings and sprockets will be spotlessly clean if you use a special degreaser; special chain cleaning devices are less recommendable because they flush the lubrication out of the inside of the chain, which should be retained. Once the drivetrain is clean, apply a thin layer of Chain oil of your choice into the chain (i.e. on the lower strand, which you slowly move on with the crank) and then wipe off any excess lubricant with an absorbent cloth to prevent oil from being thrown from the chain onto the tyres and wheel. Continue with ...

7. check brakes and gears

Once the chain is whirring smoothly again, it's time to check the gearbox. Shift through all sprockets and all chainrings once to ensure that all gears engage properly and that the chain is not rubbing anywhere in any gear. Electronic gears are uncomplicated in this respect, do not usually misalign and readjust themselves if necessary; this is not the case with mechanical gears. Here, settling and/or elongation of the cables or external influences can disrupt the smooth running of the gears. How to adjust a road bike derailleur can be found, for example here.

Similarly with the brakes: Whether disc or rim brakes, check that the wheels rotate freely and do not rub against the brake pads. If this is not the case, realign the rim or disc brake pads and take the opportunity to check whether the respective brake pads still have sufficient material thickness. How to do this, we explain here. Once the gears and brakes have been checked, we move on to the next topic:

7. inflate tyres

Before you ventilate the tyres, it is advisable to take a closer look: Do the tyres still have enough rubber on the treads? Are there any cuts or small stones pressed into the surface of the tyres? Are the tyre sidewalls undamaged? If everything is in order, the tyres can be pumped up for the start of spring. Don't forget, especially after a long period of standing: Unscrew the knurled nut of the valve and press it in first; a slight hiss - if there is still air in the tyre that can escape - indicates that the valve is open and fresh air can then flow in from the pump. Observe the manufacturer's instructions for the maximum pressure on the tyre sidewall and do not exceed this value. Less pressure in the tyre tends to have advantages, the tyre rolls more easily, has better suspension and better grip. How to determine the correct tyre pressure, we explain here.

5. check saddle bags

It is not uncommon for the saddle bag to be left unopened on the bike for several years; if you then open it in the event of a puncture, you may be faced with a scene of misery. If moisture has penetrated through the zip or leaking seams over the course of time, the saddlebag will corrode. Mini-Tool and emergency wallet are quietly sitting there, rust is blooming on the valve of the spare hose and the entire contents of the bag are unsightly. It is therefore advisable to inspect your panniers regularly, but definitely before the start of the season. Tip: Also take the opportunity to check whether the Spare tube still holds tight or whose valve length matches the wheel you are currently riding and its rim height. If the valve is too short but the inner tube is otherwise still intact, add a valve extension, available for a few cents, to the repair kit.

4. check drinking bottles

You don't have to do like the professional cyclists and throw an empty water bottle out onto the prairie, but the fact is: plastic bottles are a wearing part and should be replaced at regular intervals for hygienic reasons. If you just can't or don't want to part with the cycling marathon trophy you won three years ago, at least put it in the dishwasher with the lid unscrewed before refilling it for the first time at the start of the season. Tip: Cleaning tablets for dentures, dissolved in a drinking bottle filled with water, dissolve and remove dried-on drink residues and can eliminate unpleasant odours.

3. get the electronics ready to go

"If it's not on Strava, it didn't happen." So if you don't want to miss out on and waste any spring kilometres, make sure you have your GPS computer from hibernation so that you can fully charge the battery. It also doesn't hurt to re-familiarise yourself with the controls so that you can press the right buttons or reactivate swipe gestures at the right moment. It can also happen that your electronic brain urgently needs a software update after waking up, and you should take care of this before you have your helmet on and are standing in the corridor ready to go.

2. replenish bar and gel stock

If you have already put your "second bar" in your jersey pocket ten times in the past season and brought it back home with you, it may be worth replacing it, as it can happen that the contents, which have been warmed by your body and exposed to the sun many times, can only be removed from the pack by force. Some bars also become so hard over time that you can hardly chew them while travelling, let alone swallow them. As endurance athletes, we have also learnt that eating regularly during training promotes training success. This also applies to the first eighty of the season, so don't set off with an empty jersey pocket. A ravenous hunger attack after the ride is rather counterproductive. There is a large selection of energy bars, for example at Bike Components or Rosebikes.

1. lay out clothes and shoes

Most road cyclists have jerseys that they prefer to wear only in summer, when they are in good shape and have worked off the winter fat. So it doesn't hurt to take your favourite jersey out of the wardrobe before your first ride and see if you look "bella figura" in it at the bike meeting. In view of the expected weather, it's also a good idea to dig out the necessary clothing and utensils and get them ready. Because: Where is the Wind waistcoat? Are the overshoes in the cupboard or still in the garage? Have they even been cleaned? Also very important: the shoe inspection. Are the pedal plates or cleats still in order? Do you have the right insole? And while you're at it: Also take a look at your Cycling helmet. Is the shell still intact all round or are there any visible cracks? Incidentally, there is (almost) nothing more disgusting than having to put on a helmet with damp, greasy pads and straps that are still sweaty from the previous year. Even a quick hand wash with warm water and a little soap works wonders, and a run through the washing net in the washing machine even more so. But that no longer works five minutes before departure. So, everything checked, checked and prepared? Then you're ready for the new cycling season!

Have a safe journey at all times!