If anyone knows the best places to cycle in Kufstein, it's Siniša Durić. The Bosnian, who works as a recycling manager in Tyrol's second-largest town, has already cycled all over the Alpine republic. "There's nothing more beautiful than here," says the racing cyclist from the URC Ebbs cycling club with an Austrian-Bosnian accent. You just have to like Sini straight away. Joining him on today's tour: URC colleague Hanna, who runs a fashion shop in Kufsteinerland and the Kaiser Mountains, and her husband Michael. The industrial climber may not have quite the stature of Tour de France winner Tadej Pogačar, but rather: Pogačar times two - but he's twice as tough. A few days ago, he had to secure rock faces as part of his job to prevent avalanches of rubble from falling onto houses. A rock came loose above him and hit him squarely on the shin. Emergency doctor? Hospital? During the lunch break, he quickly went to the doctor and had it taped. He didn't have time to stitch the wound: "I had to get back on my bike tonight," he says.
Anyone staying in the former fortress town for a long weekend of road cycling might be surprised at how lively and visible the road cycling scene is in Kufstein. Or to put it a little more bluntly: You really only meet very few people who have nothing to do with road cycling.
One person who can never get enough of his homeland is Maximilian Kuen. At some point, the former professional cyclist got tired of training camps in Mallorca and Lanzarote, which is why he decided to simply stop travelling and stay at home in Kufsteinerland and the surrounding regions. "Of the 400,000 kilometres in my racing bike career, I've covered most of them here," says Kuen, who is firmly convinced that there is no better starting point than Kufstein. If he wants a flat tour, he cycles to the Reintal Lakes (70 kilometres) or around the Kaiser Mountains (90 kilometres).
If it's short and steep, he heads for Sudelfeld and Ackernalm (60 kilometres). For "long and flat", he pedals to Bavaria (60 to 120 kilometres). However, if he wants to really "bread himself" like he used to do as a pro, he rides to the Zillertal (Zillertaler Höhenstraße, Hochfügen) and back: 120 to 140 kilometres, almost 3,000 metres of altitude. Or the full programme: Kufstein-Großglockner-Kufstein - more than 200 kilometres with several thousand metres in altitude.
"The town is particularly interesting for all racing cyclists who want to go for a really nice ride after a long and hard summer," explains Kuen. The man should know, as he helps organise the Kufsteinerland Cycle Marathon. As everyone is raving about the region, I decide to explore the area and ask him to show me the best tours. And cafés, ice cream parlours and hotels. The "Pearl of Tyrol" has been praised since 1947, as the first verse of the Kufstein song says: "Do you know the pearl, the pearl of Tyrol. The little town of Kufstein, you know it well. Surrounded by mountains, so peaceful and quiet. Yes, that's Kufstein, there on the green Inn."
However, the song only really became famous thanks to the Munich yodelling king Franz Lang. Even the original Kitzbühel native Hansi Hinterseer, who has been a popular pop singer for decades after his successful career as a ski racer, took the opportunity to sing the song on television in front of millions. He is not the only Kitzbühel native to be seen on his bike in Kufsteinerland. Kufstein itself is the heart and namesake of the region, which includes the municipalities of Thiersee, Schwoich, Langkampfen, Ebbs, Bad Häring, Erl, Niederndorf and Niederndorferberg. These are all places through which the most beautiful road bike routes lead.
But what distinguishes the people of Kufstein from the people of Kitzbühel? They don't talk for long, they do. "Pack mas", says Michi, the industrial climber, and sets off. With Hanna, Sini - and me - in tow. The three of them have chosen the showpiece route for their guest today, the bike tour to Lake Chiemsee and back: 166 kilometres, 800 metres of altitude. I am excited. We start below the Kufstein fortress, which towers above the town. "It bears witness to Kufstein's warlike past," writes Österreich Magazin. Bavaria, Tyrol and the Habsburgs competed for centuries for the border town on the Inn transport artery. They all wanted to pocket the revenue from import duties and tolls. Today, the fortress is a museum with catering facilities and a nationally renowned event location. In summer, concerts are held almost every day within the medieval walls, from classical to pop. Legendary: the hero organ. With 4,300 pipes and 36 stops, it is the largest open-air organ in the world. It is played daily at midday and can be heard throughout Kufstein.
The only thing I can hear at half past seven in the morning are the cassettes of our bikes. We buzz along the Inn out of town like a swarm of bees. Fog hangs over the mountains in Kufsteinerland, dew glistens in the damp meadows. After a few kilometres, we stop for a small breakfast at the "Dresch" in Erl. If you arrive there with low blood sugar, the Anker family - from young to old - quickly solves the problem. And delicious. Cornettos, poppy seed cake, lemon pannacotta with homemade strawberry sorbet or the chocolate mousse duet are to die for. But because we're now in calorie overload, we dash on.
We cycle around Lake Chiemsee and stop off at the "Stürzer". Owner Veronika Siflinger-Lutz used to be head chef of the professional Bora team - and is a pragmatist: "The most important thing is that we don't cheat on our bodies," says the former competitive swimmer. Simply leaving something out would not please our body and metabolism in the long term. That's why: Both body and mind need to be happy, she explains. Bans are counterproductive. She cites the former Bora professional cyclist and three-time world champion Peter Sagan as an example. "He went to McDonald's and chowed down on fast food," says Vroni. Why? Because he was missing something. And this, she believes, is where she differs from other dietitians. They would only look at their Excel files and explain what professional athletes should eat. What world-class athletes and amateur sportspeople have in common: "If it doesn't taste good, I'm not happy. And if I'm not happy, I don't perform. So I used to make sure that my pros could get on their bikes happily every morning."
We do the same after the veal sausage breakfast at her place. We get on our bikes and head back home. The route between Germany and Austria couldn't be more beautiful. Bavaria and Tyrol really show their best sides in Kufsteinerland. Then we've (almost) made it. The last feeding point for today is the "Oberwirt" in Ebbs. The hotel is run by racing bike "madman" Christoph Kaltschmied. The man is either looking after his family, his inn - or he's on his Trek racer. So it's no wonder that the hotel manager has already completed the Ötztal Cycle Marathon in 8:36 hours. His girlfriend Lea finished three minutes later. He was born with the genes for it, I tell myself. Martin, his father, takes his boys out cycling several times a week. Sometimes the seniors cycle towards Germany to the Sudelfeld, sometimes through the Zillertal to the Gerlos Pass. The 62-year-old has ridden a total of 100,000 kilometres on a racing bike in his life. And the trend is rising. Rising sharply!
A little later, the same applies to the temperature in the sauna at Das Sieben. This is where Daniel, the photographer of this story, and I are staying. In recent years, the adults-only hotel was still a wellness temple. Now the new hotel manager is focussing on sport, exercise, relaxation and, of course, good food. And that's what I need after the 170-kilometre tour. It tastes delicious.
We want to take it easy on Sunday. We are aiming for a leisurely tour towards Lake Reintal. We are joined by 66-year-old Elli Stöger, who ran a bike shop with her husband for decades. Without further ado, she heads for one of the three bathing lakes in Kramsach - and of course we stop there again. Instead of sitting on the terrace of the "Fischerstube", we are (exceptionally) allowed to enjoy our cappuccino on the jetty. The lake glistens in front of us, with the Kaiser Mountains shining in the background.
Then we head back, as we have a lunch appointment at "Bierol". This is a hip brewery with a casual beer garden in Schwoich. Anyone who thinks that the owners, Christoph and his wife Lisa, are into the romance of alpine inns is mistaken. And they are completely wrong. "Beer has been rethought here since 2014. And in such a way that the hops almost jump out of the tanks with joy," chuckles Christoph, who has learnt his trade all over the world. Together with Lisa, the beer journalist, he wants to surprise and push boundaries with modern beer culture. Together with top athletes and sports scientists, the two hop artists have now launched an alcohol-free beer. The name: OHA. The O stands for "without", the A for "alcohol". And the H? For "marvellous" and "handmade". Once again, a racing cyclist was involved in the development. Ex-professional Lukas Pöstlberger, who has already become Austrian national champion and wore the pink jersey of the front runner for Team Bora for a day at the Giro d'Italia 2017. What makes the beer so special? According to its inventors, it is isotonic and rich in secondary plant substances such as hops and malt. Well then - cheers!
The problem at Bierol: we don't just like the non-alcoholic beer - everyone else does too. Then the hour of our Bosnian endurance athlete Siniša strikes again. He says that we can still have a beer or two. And pulls a new jersey out of his pocket. Sini founded the new club with a few other racing bike enthusiasts from Kufstein. What does the jersey say? "Z'WENG", which means "too little". The motto: "Bad legs - good excuses". We take it as an invitation to prepare the forthcoming return journey through Kufsteinerland, which could be a little more leisurely than the outward journey, with the right excuses at the pub table.
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Kufsteinerland is also known as the "first mountains of Tyrol". And rightly so. Thanks to its location and easy accessibility from cities such as Salzburg, Munich and Innsbruck, the holiday destination is easy to reach - especially by public transport. This is exactly what the Kufsteinerland Tourism Association promotes with the "bahnhofshuttle.tirol" service, where guests are picked up at the train station and taken to their accommodation. One racing bike per person is also taken free of charge. The transport service, which is available to guests and locals, can also be used for the return journey - provided it is booked online 48 hours before the start of the journey. All information about travelling by public transport: www.kufstein.com/anreise
Of course, it is also possible to arrive by car. If you only drive from Germany to Kufstein, you do not need a vignette for the section from the German-Austrian border to the motorway exit "Kufstein Süd", which is otherwise mandatory on Austrian motorways. The vignette for ten days currently costs 12.90 euros and can now also be booked online with immediate validity.
https://www.asfinag.at
Kufsteinerland offers more than just the famous and popular Tyrolean cuisine. The creative and award-winning restaurants and inns make gourmets' hearts beat faster - whether it's one of the award-winning toque-awarded restaurants such as the "Blaue Quelle" hotel and inn and the "Dresch" hotel in Erl or "Der Unterwirt" in Ebbs. Restaurants with regional and seasonal cuisine such as Viktoria Fahringer's gourmet inn "Tiroler Hof" are also worth a visit, as are Caroline Bichler's taproom and restaurant "Zur Linä" and Umberto Gorizia's "Minute's" ristorante. Some inspire with Tyrolean home cooking, others with unusual haute cuisine and still others with unique and unmistakable locations. Culinary delights in Kufsteinerland: "It's like a flavourful journey with countless moments of pleasure across the world," write the marketing people from the fortress town.
Brewery Bierol
A brewery collaborating with sports scientists and professional cyclists to bring out a non-alcoholic beer is something new. With "OHA", the Tyrolean brewery Bierol presents a non-alcoholic pale ale that combines beer enjoyment and a sporty lifestyle. Lukas Pöstlberger, former professional cyclist in Team Bora, Austrian national champion and now gravel biker, was involved in the development. "It tastes really good," he says. The brewery is perfect for a break or at the end of a tour. Bierol is a regionality award winner and Gault & Millau winner. Christoph Bichler and Lisa Luginger-Bichler bring the circular economy into liquid form, so to speak.
https://bierol.at
Kufsteinerland is geared towards racing cyclists like almost no other destination. Those responsible for tourism have even created a dedicated homepage for their super-sporty clientele. With these model businesses for cycling holidaymakers, the region has a lot to offer: Secure parking facilities, repair stations and tour-friendly services enrich the holiday experience.
www.kufstein.com/radunterkuenfte
The old town hotel "Top dog" is a small and historically furnished city hotel with 15 rooms and suites that fulfils high structural, architectural and culinary standards; it aims to set itself apart from standard hotels and, in its own words, is informally exclusive, personal and uncomplicated. It is also known for its in-house coffee roastery - an ideal place for cyclists to stop off.
www.platzhirsch-kufstein.com/
The adults-only hotel is located at the top of Bad Häring "The sifting", a four-star superior hotel. The active & relaxation programme with body workouts, nutrition workshops, yoga and QiGong is particularly popular with racing cyclists. Technogym cardio equipment is available in the huge fitness studio, while the spa offers various saunas, steam baths, infrared cabins and an indoor pool with a heated outdoor pool. Bookable treatments range from classic healing massage to foot reflexology, acupuncture treatment, hydrojet massage, lava shell massage, Swiss stone pine oil massage, vitality field, hay flower pack, detox foot bath and sleep diagnostics. www.das-sieben.com
Tough climbs and unique landscapes: The Kufsteinerland Cycle Marathon offers the perfect conditions for a relaxed or sporty tour. On three different routes, you can choose between the panoramic tour (48 kilometres/400 metres in altitude), the lake tour (95 kilometres/1,160 metres in altitude) and the cycle marathon over 120 kilometres and 1,800 metres in altitude.
www.kufsteinerland-radmarathon.at
Relaxed through the Chiemgau, over the Sudelfeld - or go all out and up the Großglockner? All road bike tours in Kufsteinerland are clearly presented and well described on the website.
www.kufstein.com/rennradtouren
"Bikequadrat" in Niederndorf. Mathias Daxauer, head of the flagship shop, is a passionate cyclist and ski tourer himself. There is hardly an item in his shop that he has not tested himself. Daxauer offers bike fittings, customises bikes and also gives technical courses. "Ultimately, our mission is to transform an awesome bike into a very, very awesome and super-fast bike," he says.
www.bikequadrat.at
The Austrian Ecolabel for tourism regions is a state award for sustainable destinations. It confirms that environmental protection, regional products, soft mobility and many other aspects of sustainability are actively promoted in Kufsteinerland. www.kufstein.com/kufsteinerland-2030
The KufsteinerlandCard functions as an admission ticket, travel card, discount pass and much more. Guests receive the card on arrival or at check-in at their accommodation. It includes, among other things Ascent and descent of the Kaiserlift Kufstein as well as admission to the Tyrolean glassworks Riedel Kufstein, travel on selected public transport in the region and excursion buses. www.kufstein.com/card
Tour 1 (yellow): The lake tour promises stormy nature and mountain views at their best - here you take the crisp climbing passages to Brandenberg with you. The Brandenberg valley rewards you with beautiful views of the white water gorge and the neighbouring Zillertal Alps.
Tour 2 (red): The tour takes a wide arc around the Kaiser Mountains and Hohe Salve. Towards Kirchberg, the route starts off slightly hilly and soon descends briskly through the Brixental valley to Westendorf. Through Unterwindau, which is rarely travelled, to Hopfgarten and back to Kufsteinerland via Wörgl.
Tour 3 (blue): The Sudelfeld circuit begins with a crisp start to Thiersee and the Ursprung Pass. After Bayrischzell, it's time to get going on the Sudelfeld Pass. A sharp descent towards the Inn Valley, halfway up turn right onto Tatzelwurm-Straße. Return to the starting point on quiet country roads.
Tour 4 (violet): Great Chiemgau tour through the idyllic forest ridges between Weitsee, Mittersee and Lodensee to Ruhpolding and further northwards. Siegsdorf marks a turning point and the Bavarian Sea remains in view until Seebruck.