Matthias Borchers
· 21.03.2025
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The handlebars should turn easily to the left and right without play in the head tube. The play can be checked when stationary: Move the bike with the front wheel at an angle, the front brake applied and one hand on the steering bearing. The steerer tube must not move visibly or perceptibly in the head tube. To adjust the bearing play, loosen the stem clamping bolts and carefully tighten the central stem bolt in the stem cover until the handlebars can be turned easily and without play. Then retighten the stem clamping bolts to the specified torque.
Check the cranks and chainrings, sprocket set, front derailleur, rear derailleur and chain. These parts should always be well maintained and the maintenance intervals for frequent use in bad weather should be correspondingly short. It is worth taking a close look at wear at the start of the season. The chain is checked using a special gauge (pictured above). The wear can also be recognised by lifting the chain off the chainring. Note: The larger the visible tooth gap, the greater the wear. Rear derailleur pulleys (right) should be thoroughly cleaned of oil residue and dirt and checked. If the teeth are as sharp as shown in the picture, they must be replaced.
Check the cranks and chainrings, sprocket set, front derailleur, rear derailleur and chain. These parts should always be well maintained and the maintenance intervals for frequent use in bad weather should be correspondingly short. It is worth taking a close look at wear at the start of the season. The chain is checked using a special gauge (pictured above). The wear can also be recognised by lifting the chain off the chainring. Note: The larger the visible tooth gap, the greater the wear. Rear derailleur pulleys (right) should be thoroughly cleaned of oil residue and dirt and checked. If the teeth are as sharp as shown in the picture, they must be replaced.
Work on this safety-relevant component is for experienced mechanics. Brake pads wear out and need to be regularly readjusted over their service life. On rim brakes, this is done by tightening the Bowden cable using the adjusting nut on the lever arm. If the slack is used up, the cable must be readjusted by loosening the clamp (pictured). With hydraulic disc brakes, the pressure point can be adjusted by adjusting the brake lever. With both variants, always ensure that the brake pads are sufficiently thick.
Check all important screw connections on the handlebars, stem and seat post with a Torque spanner to the correct tightening torques; these are usually noted on the respective component, otherwise refer to the operating instructions. Screws that are too tight can suddenly snap off under load and are just as dangerous as those that are too loose.
The correct tyre pressure depends on the tyre type, width, rider weight and surface - it is difficult to give standard values given the variety of tyres and tyre widths. Check the tyre sidewalls and treads carefully for cracks or embedded stones to prevent tyre bursts. Tubeless tyres that are fitted with fresh Sealing milk must first be cleaned of dried residues (see picture above).
Modern wheels are equipped with largely maintenance-free deep groove ball bearings; adjustable cone bearings are becoming increasingly rare. The Cosmic wheels from Mavic, for example, are still widely used and the bearing can be easily adjusted without play using the special spanner supplied. The same tool can also be used to adjust the spoke tension for optimum concentricity. However, this should be reserved for experienced mechanics.
Pedals are relatively low-maintenance and work on them is usually simple. Clean contact surfaces make it easier to get in and out of the pedal, too much dirt can also restrict freedom of movement to the left and right. To ensure that the pedal plate sits without rattling, the retaining lugs should have sufficient material (at least two millimetres). If you have not been out on the road during the winter, you can adjust the release hardness one or two clicks looser to familiarise yourself with the firm connection between shoe and pedal.
Clean your bike thoroughly, preferably with plenty of lukewarm water and a drop of washing-up liquid. Check all surfaces for cracks or damage. Protect the chain stay and, if necessary, parts of the frame where cables and wires could rub with transparent adhesive film (pictured). After washing, it is advisable to seal the paintwork with a care wax.
After the winter, we recommend taking a look at your breakdown kit to avoid any nasty surprises when you actually need it. As most bags are not one hundred per cent waterproof, rusty tools are not uncommon. Also check whether adhesive patches are still intact, vulcanising fluid is actually still liquid and the spare inner tube is still leak-proof and has the correct valve length for your wheel.

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