Safety: Checking your bike before a bikepacking trip

The check begins before departure

Don’t wait until the evening before to start checking your bike. Wear-and-tear parts such as tyres, brake pads or the chain may need replacing, and it’s rarely possible to arrange a visit to a cycle shop at short notice, as they usually operate on an appointment-only basis and there may be a wait.

Start by giving your bike a thorough clean. This will make it easier to spot any damage or wear and tear. Then carry out the check systematically – for example, from the bottom to the top or from the front to the back – so that you don’t miss anything.

Check tyres and wheels

The tyres are your direct point of contact with the road or gravel. You should therefore check them carefully before setting off.

• Check the tread and sidewalls for cuts, cracks, bulges and embedded foreign objects.
• If you ride tubeless: When did you last top up the sealant? Depending on the climate and the type of sealant, it dries out after about two to six months and no longer provides reliable protection against punctures.
• Check the wheels for wobble and loose spokes. To check for play in the bearings, lift the wheel briefly by the frame and wiggle it from side to side at the top without turning it – if there is noticeable movement, the bearing has play and needs to be taken to a workshop.
• ​Adjust the tyre pressure to suit the total weight, tyre width and road surface.

There is no one-size-fits-all tyre pressure. Key factors include your weight, the weight of your bike and your luggage, as well as the balance you wish to strike between comfort, grip and puncture protection. You must not exceed or fall below the specified pressure limits for the tyres and rims. Tyre pressure calculators such as the one from SILCA will help you find the right size. As well as the tyre width, you’ll need to enter the total weight of the bike, luggage and rider. This refers to the actual measured tyre width, not the one printed on the tyre: this can vary by a few millimetres depending on the rim.

If you spot any cracks, bulges or damage to the tyre carcass, you should replace the tyre before setting off. A tyre with a noticeable loss of pressure is also unsuitable for a multi-day trip. In this case, you should either check your tubeless setup or inspect the inner tube for defects and either patch or replace it.

Check the brakes

Your bike gets heavier when you’re carrying luggage. This makes it all the more important to have a reliable braking system.

Check that the brake pads are thick enough: as a rule of thumb, there should be at least 1 mm of friction material remaining. Some pads also have a stamped wear indicator or a coloured line – once this is reached, it’s time for a replacement. To find out how to spot wear on brake discs and pads, see this TOUR article.

Also, pull the brake levers and check the bite point: after a short free travel, the lever should become noticeably firmer as the brake engages. This free travel should be no more than about a third of the total lever travel. If the lever can be pulled almost all the way to the handlebars without the brake engaging properly, something is wrong – for example, air in the system or severely worn brake pads. In that case, take it to a bike shop.

You should also look out for grinding noises, uneven braking, fluid leaks and damage to brake cables, hoses and connections – these are also warning signs that should be checked by a qualified mechanic before setting off.

Check the drive and gearbox

A worn or poorly adjusted drivetrain becomes particularly noticeable on long stages and when carrying a load – regardless of whether your ride is mostly flat or hilly.

Measure the chain wear and check the chain, cassette and chainrings for significant wear; here’s how to do it this TOUR article. Also, go through all the gears and check the rear derailleur and derailleur pulleys for damage. Clean the chain and lubricate it according to the weather conditions.

The gears should work smoothly even under load, so it’s not enough simply to change through the gears whilst the bike is on the repair stand – it’s only when under load during a test ride that you’ll be able to tell whether the chain jumps or the gear changes are jerky. You should fit new wear parts a few days before your ride, so that there is still time for a test ride and any necessary readjustments.

Handlebars, seat post and mounts

The handlebars, stem, headset, saddle and seatpost are all safety-critical components. All clamps and bolts should be securely fastened without being overtightened.

• Handlebar clamping and stem.
• Tax rate.
• Saddle clamping and seat post.
• Thru-axles or quick-release skewers.
• Bottle holders and other screw fittings.
• Visible cracks or unusual play.

The easiest way to check the clamps is to try moving the relevant component vigorously: twist the handlebars and stem, move the saddle from side to side, and check the headset by wobbling the wheel whilst the front brake is applied – if you feel any play, something is too loose. Quick-release skewers should only close when you have to apply noticeable force. Also check that your thru-axles or quick-release skewers, which secure the wheels to the bike frame, are tightened properly.

You should always adhere to the specified torque settings, particularly when working with carbon components. If you do not have a suitable torque wrench, or if you notice any damage to the handlebars, stem or seat post, have the bike checked by a cycle shop.

Bikepacking bags, frame protection and total weight

This point is particularly relevant if you’re using a particular rucksack system for the first time, or if you’ve changed what you’re carrying since your last trip – if you’re familiar with the setup and it hasn’t changed, a quick glance is usually enough.

Pack your bags with the actual luggage you’ll be taking on the tour and attach them to the bike. When doing so, check not only the capacity but also how securely they’re attached:

• All bags are securely fastened.
• Sufficient clearance from the tyre.
• Free movement of cranks and heels.
• Do not allow contact with brake lines and gear cables.
• Mask off any areas of the frame that might be prone to scuffing.
• No rattling or loose fixings.

A short ride over uneven terrain with a full load is particularly revealing: if a bag slips, hits the tyre or rubs against the frame, you should adjust how it’s secured before setting off. The same applies to the total weight of the bike, luggage, water and food – check in advance that it falls within the weight limits for the frame, wheels, tyres and luggage racks. If the test ride reveals that the bike handles unusually or that braking distances are longer, the set-up is not yet suitable for touring.

Protective film or suitable frame protection pads can protect contact points that are subject to heavy stress.

Lighting, battery and electronics

Even on a planned day trip, things can take longer than expected. Your front and rear lights should therefore be in working order and fully charged.

• Check the front and rear lights.
• Charge your cycle computer and smartphone.
• Pack your charging cable and the relevant adaptors.
• Check the battery level of electronic circuits.
• For e-bikes: check the battery, charger and range.

On a longer ride, don’t underestimate your range; it’s best to pack a charging cable – whether it’s for your e-bike, gears or sat-nav. Headwinds, climbs, low temperatures and extra luggage can increase energy consumption – TOUR has already outlined the importance of range planning in a practical report on bikepacking with an e-gravel bike.

Checklist for the evening before

The night before, a quick final check is all you need:

• Check the tyre pressure and adjust it if necessary.
• Briefly check the brakes and gear changes.
• Securely fasten bags.
• Lighting, cycle computers and charging batteries.
• Take weather and track conditions into account.

This final check is no substitute for a full inspection. Its sole purpose is to ensure that no new problems have arisen since the test drive.

When you should take your bike to the workshop

Not all maintenance work is suitable for the evening before you set off. If your brakes are worn, your wheels are damaged, there is noticeable play in the bearings, you’re having problems with hydraulic brakes, or there are cracks in safety-critical components, your bike needs to go to a cycle shop. The same applies if you cannot identify the cause of a noise or unusual handling yourself.

If you carry out the check well in advance of your bikepacking trip and then take it for a test ride fully loaded, you’ll be setting off on a much better footing. Whilst this won’t completely rule out a breakdown, it will help you spot many avoidable problems before they force you to take an unscheduled break whilst on the road. We’ve listed in our Packing list for gravel tours compiled.