Wiebke Lühmann reaches the Cape of Good Hope: 20,000 kilometres, 14 months, 1 goal
Sandra Schuberth
· 09.12.2024
The cycling adventurer and bikepacker set off on her biggest journey to date over 14 months ago from her adopted home of Freiburg im Breisgau.
She travelled through a total of 22 countries with her bike and tent, always following the west coast of the African continent. The Atlas Mountains, the Sahara, the Liberian rainforest and the Nigerian mountains were just some of the highlights on the 20,150 kilometre route.
She was accompanied by a friend until Portugal, then she continued alone. For the time being, because she met other cycle travellers along the way. One of them was Julien Soleil, with whom she travelled together from the Sahara. With interruptions.
Wiebke's trip to Cape Town: What has happened so far
These memories will last forever
Invitations and encounters along the way created long-lasting memories and energised Wiebke Lühmann time and again. Mutual curiosity and cordiality.
For me, the encounters are the best thing about this trip. The memories with people last forever. - Wiebke Lühmann
When it comes to encounters, many people certainly think of Africa's wildlife: lions, elephants, zebras, rhinos, ... Unfortunately, Wiebke spotted far fewer animals than expected, as the populations in large parts of Africa are shrinking rapidly due to global crises. Only in Namibia did the adventurer see wild elephants, giraffes, zebras and oryx antelopes. An elephant is a regular at the pool of a campsite. He comes to drink.
Of course, there were also wild animals to discover in other countries, such as chimpanzees, warthogs and impressive birds. And it always takes luck to see animals.
Immer Richtung Süden
Talking of luck. Wiebke Lühmann was largely spared illness. A cold in Morocco and minor food poisoning were the worst. Thanks to prophylaxis and precautionary measures, she was spared malaria. All mosquitoes were meticulously killed in hotel rooms. If that wasn't possible, the only option was to pitch a tent in the room.
A 30-day visa is not always enough
In countries such as Ghana, Togo, Benin, Cameroon and Congo, there are tourist visas that are valid for 30 days. This means that you have to leave these countries again when the 30 days are up. Sometimes this was easy, but in other countries things could get tight for Wiebke and her travelling companions. Especially when they didn't choose the quickest route, but one that seemed safer. In Nigeria, Cameroon and Congo, for example, they had to bite the bullet to reach the border on time. Taxi or bus was the order of the day.
Travelling around the Democratic Republic of the Congo by ferry
From Congo, we travelled to an enclave that belongs to Angola. And then things got exciting, because the next country, the Democratic Republic of Congo, would have required the next visa. But the 40 kilometre journey was hardly worth the effort and the money. A passenger ferry from Angola to Angola was a good way of getting around the 40 kilometres.
In Namibia, home is close
A lot is changing in Namibia. Not only that a lot of German is spoken here. One big change is that filmmaker, photographer and friend Fabienne Engel joins the travelling duo together with her partner. Shortly afterwards, Julien says goodbye as there is too much commotion with so many people.
Wiebke followed a gravel road through Namibia for hundreds of kilometres, which often resembled a washboard. In addition, there was a constant headwind, so that 60 kilometres could take a whole day.
The last frontier
And then it was there. The last border. The border from Namibia to South Africa. At Alexander Bay, directly on the Atlantic, Wiebke Lühmann travelled into the last country on her trip. Another change awaits here, well, 100 kilometres later in Steinkopf. I join them, Sandra Schuberth.
Travelling companion
It had been planned for a long time that I would accompany her for a while at some point, and my annual holiday was to be used to visit my girlfriend and accompany her for a while. Actually in May, Cote d'Ivoire. But the schedules didn't work out. So my visit was postponed. South Africa seemed like a good alternative. I booked a flight to Cape Town - and we booked a return flight together. I organised a bike in advance, which I was able to borrow in Cape Town - a Standert ground floor including bikepacking bags. What a luxury!
I was incredibly excited to take the bus to Springbok, a good 600 kilometres north of Cape Town. But everything worked out. Relief. Wiebke and Fabienne picked me up at the bus stop in the middle of the night, light rain, cold.
It was also exciting to think what it would be like to see Wiebke again after more than a year, what it would be like to be travelling with her in a country that was completely foreign to me on a continent that was completely foreign to me. Wiebke has so much experience in her luggage, Wiebke has shown so much courage, Wiebke has experienced so much.
Bit by bit, my tension falls away and I arrive. It's nice to be travelling together, listening to their stories and becoming a small part of them.
After a few days as a couple, the film crew joins up again, having grown by another member. As well as making steady progress along the Atlantic coast, they think about what still needs to be filmed to make the documentary perfect.
Every day, plans are made, plans are discarded, new plans are made. Is there another day off? Yes? No? Maybe? What day should the arrival be?
Destination: The Cape of Good Hope
And then Cape Town is suddenly within reach - and with it the Cape of Good Hope. The kilometres to Cape Town on the road signs drop from three digits to two. On the way into the city, we meet a few of Wiebke's fans. For a few kilometres, we drive together with the father-daughter team from Italy towards Cape Town. But the moment of arrival in the city and later at the Cape is reserved for her alone - and the friends at her side. After a break, we set off on the last 80 kilometres with almost 1000 metres of elevation gain. The wind also wants Wiebke to reach her destination today, pushing her up every climb. We are practically flying towards Cape Town of Good Hope.
I can only guess what must be whirling through Wiebke's mind and emotions after the 430-day journey. It is certainly a wild mix of feelings that she is unable to put into words at this point. She reports flashbacks - the many border crossings, but also encounters along the way, come to her mind.
In the end, I drive ahead. The moment of arrival belongs to her alone.
Photos and videos are taken and then we have to be quick to get out of the nature reserve in time, because if you are too late, you have to pay a fine. We make a precision landing.
Review
A year does not pass without highs and lows. Wiebke Lühmann describes the contrasts between rich and poor as ever-present. Homesickness and culture shocks, the many border crossings and infinitely wide horizons challenge the bikepacker - and shape her. After around 15,000 kilometres, in the south of the Congo, she felt that her destination was still a long way off and suddenly she began to have doubts. A great emptiness spread, the joy of travelling had disappeared. But instead of breaking off, she recharged her batteries for 10 days, made new plans and set off on the last 5,000 kilometres or so. We reported on this low point on the anniversary.
The last three countries of their journey, Angola, Namibia and South Africa, offered spectacular landscapes, wild animals and also felt much easier. Partly because of the friends from home who came to visit and accompany them for the last few kilometres.
"Now I've arrived in Cape Town. With my packed bike, full of stories and memories of the people, animals and nature. It was an unforgettable journey, characterised by hospitality, challenges and a dream that remains a dream: cycling overland from Freiburg to the Cape of Good Hope, to a place that seemed unreachable for so long."
Facts, figures and data
- Distance: 20,150 kilometres
- Altitude metres: 136.000
- Total journey time: 1152 hours
- Countries: 22
- days on the road: 430
- Driving days: 283
- Average journey time per day: 4 hours
- Average kilometres per driving day: 71
- Bus/tram distance: approx. 1000 km
- Break days / sick days / organisation days: 147
- Weight bike luggage, food and drink: 30 kilos (estimated)
- Bicycle: Wilier Adlar custom body
Now is the time to remember all the impressions, to sort out all the experiences, to feel all the emotions. Who knows when Wiebke Lühmann will set off on her next journey. She already has ideas.
Sandra Schuberth
Editor
