Sandra Schuberth
· 29.05.2024
From October to spring, Wiebke has already travelled over 8,000 kilometres and has been to ten countries - including Germany - six of them on the African continent. She still has 11,000 kilometres to go. Since Morocco, everything is 100 per cent new and unknown to the cycle traveller. In an interview, Wiebke gives us an insight into her travel adventure on two wheels.
MYBIKE: Wiebke, what made you decide to cycle to South Africa?
Wiebke Lühmann: The journey is the destination. I want to cycle across Africa. That's 19 countries. Countless places that I've never been to and that I want to see. I don't have enough imagination to visualise all these places, people, smells, the wind and the vastness, so I'm drawn there by an abstract longing. Having been to the North Cape last summer, the Cape of Good Hope is a nice destination that allows me to combine the northernmost point of Europe with the southernmost point of Africa.
Has your geographical destination changed - from the Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town?
No - so I will cycle to both places. The destination is the south of Africa. I'm not that precise.
It started at the beginning of October. How did you prepare? Were you ready to set off?
You're never really ready. It wasn't easy to get going. There was a lot of stress, despite the long preparation time. For example, the bikes for me and Hannah, my companion for the first two months, only arrived a few days before the planned departure. There was no time for a test ride. Planning such a long journey in advance down to the smallest detail is impossible. So many things can ruin the planning. And there's a lot you can't plan or know in advance. I have a macro plan from Freiburg to Cape Town, the daily stages are planned en route. It's not just the weather or illness that can make rescheduling unavoidable; the political situation can also change quickly. That's why I keep a close eye on the political situation and decide at short notice how and where to continue.
In terms of organisation, my preparation consisted mainly of travel vaccinations and the purchase of a somewhat more extensive first-aid kit, which included malaria prophylaxis, for example. I also applied for a second passport, re-registered my place of residence and found out about travel insurance. I will only take care of the necessary visas once I know exactly when and where I will be travelling to. With the Sicher Reisen app from the Federal Foreign Office, for example, you can stay up to date with entry requirements, security advice, etc.
Mentally, it was mainly about saying goodbye and leaving a beautiful home, which to my surprise was harder than I expected. I didn't do any special training; on the contrary, apart from a few shorter bikepacking tours and after-work laps, cycling had become less and less important in the run-up to the trip, as all the other aspects of preparation took so much time. However, I knew from my experiences that I would get in and didn't need any special training.
You have chosen the Adlar from your sponsor Wilier Triestina as your bike of choice. But not in a standard version. You had the bike fitted with a flat bar and also decided against clipless pedals. Why did you do that?
I will be travelling by bike for a good year. Two things are important: how do I stow my luggage on the bike? And how can I travel as comfortably as possible? Compared to a drop bar, a flat bar offers much more space to pack a handlebar bag. Racing handlebars limit the packing volume. Lights, bike computers etc. are also easier to attach as there is more space for them. The straight handlebars make my posture on the bike more upright and the wide handlebars offer me a different handling experience. These aspects also convinced me to swap the curved handlebars for straight ones.
Now to the shoes. "Why don't you ride with clipless pedals?" is probably one of the questions I get asked most often. It's more comfortable for me, I can use the shoes to explore places for breaks as well as for cycling. If a shoe breaks, I can buy new ones and don't have to rely on a mounting option for cleats. I currently mostly wear Birkenstock sandals on my bike.
That leads nicely to another question. You've been travelling for about half a year now. Do you have a daily travelling routine? What does it look like?
Yes - it does exist. Get up in the morning at sunrise or earlier, pack up and have breakfast. I'm usually on my bike for a good five hours. During the day, I spontaneously decide where I want to spend the night and whether I'll head for a campsite or a hotel. I also always take breaks spontaneously. Everyday life now also consists of numerous borders and visa applications, as there are many very small countries here in West Africa and they all have different entry procedures. I also change money, SIM cards and languages. So there is always something to do and you never get bored. Nevertheless, it's like a routine.
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You crossed the Sahara, the largest dry desert on earth. What was that like?
It was great. One of the best experiences on the bike so far. Breathtaking and peaceful at the same time. And much more varied than expected. When there was a headwind, I felt like a lorry weighing several tonnes. Overall, however, I was surprised at how good the roads are and how beautiful and modern the small towns in the Sahara are. What was completely unexpected, however, was how much changed abruptly after the border with Mauritania.
You met more women on your journey up to the Sahara, but now it's almost exclusively men. What is it like travelling alone through African countries as a woman?
It's good. I feel comfortable and safe.
What has been your highlight so far?
The Sahara. And currently the overwhelmingly beautiful nature in Senegal.
And what was really stupid?
Good question. Nothing really.
What are you afraid of or respect?
I'm not afraid of anything acutely. I have respect for malaria or certain diseases that I am very likely to get.
The film "On her own" was made about your trip to the North Cape and can be seen on YouTube. The current trip will also be captured on film. Do you have any idea when the film will be released?
That's right, I'm making another film, again together with Fabienne Engel. Completion is still a long way off at the moment, as I have to finish the journey first. It would be nice if our film was finished by the end of 2025. We'll see.
We have been following the bikepacker's journey since she started:
Wiebke's journey began in Freiburg im Breisgau, right on her doorstep. From there, she travelled through France, Spain, Portugal and Spain again. She reached Africa at the end of December, when a ferry took her to the African continent. Since then, she has roughly followed the west coast southwards. She has already crossed the Sahara and is currently in Côte d'Ivoire.

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