What are the most beautiful tours in South Tyrol? We want to find out from Claudio Camin, a former professional cyclist. That's why we visit him at his winery. There, the man from Bolzano tells us the best routes - and the best restaurants. It only takes a few minutes before you can't help but envy him and everyone else who has the privilege of living there. The lives of South Tyroleans are inextricably linked with the colourful alpenglow, the fascinating shades of white of the glaciers, the clear high mountain lakes and the majestic peaks. As a result, the millennia-old stories of these mountains are reflected in the faces of those who have always lived here and passed them on. True to the motto: "We are mountains."
View into paradise
Before Claudio Camin gets on his racing bike in the morning, he usually grabs a cappuccino and sits down on his terrace. Although "terrace" is perhaps not the right word. Because while most people, if they have a terrace, look out onto their garden at best, Claudio and his wife Brunhilde look out onto an expansive paradise: from their tree house on the "Ansitz Dolomytos", a vineyard above Bolzano. The landscape at their feet doesn't necessarily look like South Tyrol - it's more like rice fields in Bali. More than ten years ago, the former professional cyclist and his wife Brunhilde bought the winery from Rainer Zierock - a former professor of Greek mythology and agricultural philosophy. Bruni emphasises that all the renovations were carried out according to the five-element principle of Rudolf Steiner's teachings, the founder of anthroposophy and Waldorf education. The pentagon in "Paradise" characterises a place that touches and moves. Women's magazines would call such a place a "place of power".
Commute to the bike shop
Claudio has to get moving too, after all he can't drink coffee all day, he has to get to work. That's where I meet the South Tyrolean, who rode in the Tour de France and was runner-up in the track cycling world championships: in his bike shop. The contrast to his home could not be greater. On 600 square metres in an industrial estate, the 55-year-old sells carbon bikes from top international brands - but also bikes from his own brand, Camin. When German tourists visit him, what they want above all is good service. Claudio doesn't really like to talk about it. He is a little long-winded, but then emphasises that he sees his bike shop in Enzo-Ferrari-Strasse as one of those that impress their customers with their service.
So, let's talk: what are the best road bike routes here? Claudio says that the Mendel Pass, the Penser Joch and the Gampen Pass are always good. When he pedals with his guests, it's usually from Bolzano towards Ritten. And of course the classic of all classics: through the beautiful Passeier Valley to St. Leonhard and up to the Timmelsjoch.
Shuttle instead of bike
Claudio once had the idea of offering road bike tours that ended at his winery. In hindsight, however, that wasn't such a good idea. The cycling itself was not the problem. After the good food, the steep pass road back was the problem. Perhaps, he thinks, it was due to the many glasses of wine as well as the many good conversations. Since then, his guests have been booking a shuttle back to Bolzano. We have another espresso together and arrange to meet for breakfast at the Magdalener Hof the next morning. It's on the way from his winery to the Passo del Rombo, the Timmelsjoch. The border pass connects South Tyrol and the autonomous province of Bolzano with the Austrian province of Tyrol.
So the next morning I'm sitting in the Magdalener Hof and having breakfast with hotel manager Jakob Ramoser. Jakob is one of those people who started cycling during the coronavirus lockdown and now can't get off his bike. He is now (exceptionally) training with friends for the New York Marathon. Then the phone rings. It's Claudio. A colleague was hit by a car while cycling yesterday evening. Unfortunately, he can't come with me, he has to look after him and the company. No problem, I say. I know where I have to go. So I cycle out of Bolzano, along the newly tarmaced main road. To make sure I don't get myself into trouble with my "warm-up tour" on the first day, I take the car and park at the end of the Passeier Valley in San Leonardo. That's where the scrambling begins. Just like on the Stelvio, you ride curve after curve, but you get to see a lot more - that's what Claudio promised me. He also told me that the Passeier Valley was the home of Tyrolean folk hero Andreas Hofer. It is also one of the most rustic and scenically diverse valleys in South Tyrol with more than 300 days of sunshine a year.
Warming up on the Timmelsjoch
I'm in a good mood, corner after corner. Then comes the worst thing I've ever experienced on a road bike: A bacon hut that smells better than any gingerbread house in a fairy tale. So I pull over, grab a quick Coke and pack a Vinschgerl with bacon and gherkin in my jersey pocket. For a rainy day. A few more hairpin bends and then I've made it. At the top, the mountain pass shows its most beautiful side. Although it's barren up there, it always warms my heart on passes like this.
I can't help but think of Stefan Bogner. The photographer of the "Curves" illustrated books repeatedly expresses his respect for the master builders to whom we owe these monuments in the Alps. "This is an incredible feat. For me, the passes are the pyramids of the Alps. Only much more beautiful and impressive," the photographer of winding roads once said. However, today would be nothing for his work. The sun is shining. Blue sky. Dreadful. "The mountains aren't like this. They are wild, unpredictable. For me, blue skies are the worst-case scenario, the worst-case scenario," says Bogner.
In the evening it's off to the round table
The super disaster for me is my stomach. It's growling like crazy. I realise that I haven't eaten anything all day - apart from my reserve of bacon sandwiches. So I quickly dash back down from the Timmelsjoch, back through the Passeier Valley and into the little village of Lana. It's "Tavolata" evening - "round table" - in one of the most beautiful hotels here. We sit at a long table in the "1477 Reichhalter" and savour the Balegò tuna and beef tartare. Followed by pak choi with cabbage jus, Shanghai style seafood and grilled lamb and rib eye. Followed by: Espresso and saffron vanilla ice cream with fermented blackberries and sheep's yoghurt. "Mangia bene, ridi spesso, ama molto" is the motto: "Eat well, laugh often, love a lot". We prefer to keep quiet about the subsequent return journey to Bolzano.
South Tyrolean jewel: Lake Carezza
Fortunately, the second day is an easy tour towards San Cipriano. The view of the Catinaccio/Rosengarten in the Sciliar/Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park is not only fabulously beautiful, there are also many legends surrounding it. However, I don't have time to deal with the dwarf king Laurin, as I still have to keep up my 240 watts. The reward is fabulous: this time in the form of the fabulously beautiful Karersee lake, where a mermaid is said to have once lived. The magazine "National Geographic" calls Lake Carezza one of the "most beautiful lakes in the entire Alpine region". Unfortunately - and this is also part of the truth - this beautiful spot has become a tourist hotspot. In other words: all hell is breaking loose. I admire it nonetheless and stuff a few gels into me in the meantime to back up my spontaneous decision to include another lap via Obereggen and the Passo di Lavaze, i.e. the Lavazejoch. Another 15 kilometres and 600 vertical metres on top of the 1800 vertical metres that we will cover that day. Why not?
Classics round
On day three, I cycle towards Kaltern and from there over the Mendel Pass. It's actually not that steep and not that long (13.5 kilometres and 880 metres in altitude), but today the planet is really burning. So I stop at a café, get an ice cube bag and stick it in the back of my jersey. I once heard that's what the pros do. Unfortunately, I still only cycle half as fast. Nevertheless, I feel good, pedalling up the Mendel Pass in the sweltering heat, then over the Gampen Pass. In Lana, where I had dinner last night, I turn right towards Bolzano - to the "Mondschein".
The hotel is the new base for endurance athletes in South Tyrol, and there is even a cooperation with the Standert bike manufacturer in Berlin. Relevant lifestyle magazines call it a "hipster place from the 3D printer" and the Belle Époque hotel invites you to "gelati and siesta under the lemon tree". I decide to go there for my favourite dish, spaghetti vongole. Afterwards, I let the good Lord be a good man and treat myself to an Aperol Spritz by the pool. Small recommendation: don't eat tiramisu there. Up! No way! case! You'll never get enough with one portion. You'll have to order a second, maybe even a third.
I then cycle back to my base camp, the Magdalener Hof. A quick shower, after all I want to round off my evening at Alma9. Patrick, the photographer, and I try the sharing menu with hummus, vegetables, falafel, spiced kebab, zatar dumplings and the oriental salad with fennel. What Elad, the man from Tel Aviv, serves up with his oriental-influenced cuisine is a poem. Especially the dessert: malabi, an Israeli milk pudding with rose water, syrup and coconut flakes. The spirit of Alma Beach, Elad's home, lives on here.
Paradise to book
My last cycle tour takes me up the Ritten, the local mountain of the people of Bolzano. Local mountain, that actually sounds nice and harmless. The route is only 16 kilometres long, but it's really tough. So I push myself up, enjoying the view at 1300 metres above sea level on the extensive mountain ridge in the south-east of the Sarntal Alps. It's a dream destination. Then I have to go on to Claudio. The former professional cyclist, who took part in the Tour de France in 1996 but, unlike the winner at the time, Bjarne Riis, didn't finish, isn't here yet. He lets it be known that he will arrive a little later. A few German racing cyclists have turned up unannounced and want to have their bikes serviced Brunhilde is also under stress. Guests arrive in the evening - after all, you can book paradise up here. Later, she will serve Schlutzkrapfen, followed by goulash with dumplings, accompanied by her award-winning wines. She loves to talk about her organic wines and about the founder of the hotel. He was a visionary, says Brunhilde. A genius, a tinkerer - but also a chaotic person. Maybe that's why she and her Claudio fit in so well here, she says with a laugh.
Cappuccino and croissant
The next morning, Claudio is once again sitting on his terrace with a view of paradise, enjoying a cappuccino and a croissant. When he looks out of his tree house, it always gives him a cosy feeling, he says. Of course, there are also beautiful flat countries, but he always misses the third dimension in these countries. A completely flat landscape makes him depressed, without mountains he becomes melancholy, he adds quite seriously. Most people who grew up in South Tyrol are drawn to the heights. It helps to stand above things, to get an overview. "The mountains simply show you where to go," says Claudio.
The lives of South Tyroleans are therefore inextricably linked with the colourful alpenglow of the Dolomites, the fascinating shades of white of the glaciers, the crystal-clear high mountain lakes and the majestic peaks here in the region. As a result, the millennia-old stories of these mountains are reflected in the faces of those who have always lived here and passed them on. But no more philosophising. Claudio has to get to work. Where else? He gets on his racing bike and rides from paradise to his workshop as he does every day. He couldn't be happier.
South Tyrol: Information for your cycling holiday
Journey
The classic option is travelling by car via the Brenner Pass. That always works. But many people want to do that. A great many. According to ASTAT, the official statistics institute of the province of South Tyrol, a total of almost nine million people travelled to South Tyrol last year. The bottom line was more than 37 million overnight stays, and the trend is rising. For this reason, travelling by train is not only relaxed, but also comfortable. You board the train together with your racing bike in Munich, Mainz or Mönchengladbach and then, with a TOUR in hand, look forward to the days of cycling ahead in the self-sufficient province over a coffee. You hardly need a car when you're there anyway, as the region offers the "South Tyrol Guest Pass" - South Tyrol covers the cost of using public transport. This means that you can use all regional trains, regional buses and all city and intercity buses as well as the cable cars on the Ritten, in Kohlern, Mölten and Vöran free of charge.
Accommodation
South Tyrol offers great accommodation for cyclists, from budget guesthouses to luxury grand hotels. True to the motto: everything is possible, nothing is a must. The "South Tyrol Info" bed & bike page clearly lists all the relevant hotels. The site is useful and helpful because you can plan your route with changing stage destinations. The specialised accommodation offers everything that is important for a cycling holiday.
Inspiration can also be found on the "Bikehotels" page, then South Tyrol. The website is the first port of call when it comes to road bike holidays on the southern side of the Alps. It lists three dozen bike hotels that offer beautiful rooms, good food, sunny pools, workshops, storage rooms and more.
Hotels
Magdalener Hof
Phone +39 0471 978 267
www.magdalenerhof.it
If you want to set off towards Ritten and Klobenstein first thing in the morning, choose the Magdalener Hof, just outside Bolzano. The boutique hotel is located directly on the road to the famous excursion destination. The only "catch": The sumptuous and fantastic food. So here's a tip: don't spend too long feasting at breakfast, otherwise you'll leave your holiday with more kilos on your ribs than you had on the outward journey. After the cycle tour, relax in the pool. Recommendation: "Spaghetti chitarra allo scoglio", i.e. pasta with seafood. In the evening: "Chef's fillet" with grilled vegetables and roast potatoes.
Parkhotel Mondschein
Phone +39 0471 975642
www.parkhotelmondschein.com/de
Those who don't like to make elaborate plans can book a four-day trip to the Parkhotel Mondschein, for example. Included: four nights including breakfast at the grand hotel in the centre of Bolzano, two dinners at the "Luna" restaurant, a lunch at "1477 Reichhalter" and three guided road bike tours together with the Berlin steel frame manufacturer Standert. Also included in the package: an hour of "Yin & Sound" in the Arise yoga studio. Three tours are planned, covering almost 300 kilometres and 4500 metres in altitude. The price of 967 euros includes: secure bike accommodation, self-service bike station, self-care for yourself and your bike. The "Mondschein" is currently regarded as a popular road bike hotel.
Special recommendation: "Tavolata" evening at the "1477 Reichhalter" in Lana. Served with: Balegò tuna, beef tartare. Then pak choi with cabbage jus, "Shanghai-style" seafood and grilled lamb and rib eye. Followed by: Espresso and saffron vanilla ice cream with fermented blackberries and sheep's yoghurt.
Food & Drink
Restaurants
Alma9 If you're not in the mood for Schlutzkrapfen and dumplings in the evening, head to Alma 9 by Elad from Tel Aviv. Of course, you can also order homemade tagliatelle with ragù from Villnösser Brillenschaf. Or a spiced turkey skewer with couscous, peas and salad. Also possible: kebab skewer of liver and lung, served with an oriental salad. Or simply the Jerusalem mix: spiced chicken with red onions, paprika and tahini. Add to this a delicious wine in the backyard - and the evening becomes an unforgettable pleasure. The spirit of Alma Beach, Elad's home, lives on here. "Bete Avon" is Hebrew for bon appétit.
https://alma9.com/
Lion's den A cultural melting pot of culinary delights - Bolzano's oldest restaurant, the Löwengrube. Every South Tyrolean from the region goes there with their guests. It starts with cauliflower salad and caraway dressing, Alpine cheese shavings, nuts, dates and pomegranate seeds. Then there are, for example, stuffed courgette flowers coated in panko flour or a veal tongue à la lion's den. Also included: horseradish cream, rocket pesto, fermented radishes and pickled Tropea onions.
https://www.loewengrube.it/
South Tyrolean speciality: Törggelen
There is spring, summer, autumn and winter above the Brenner Pass. And Törggelen, the fifth season. Where chestnuts and wine grow, farm inns and taverns open their farmhouse parlours from the beginning of October to the end of November. You can savour delicacies such as Schlutzkrapfen, dumplings, sour meat and sausages with sauerkraut, sweet doughnuts and roasted chestnuts. These are traditionally served with "Siaße" (grape must) and young wine. The term "Törggelen" refers to the "Torggl", the wooden wine press in the farmers' cellars.
A little tip Travel there by public transport. The wine is very tasty.
https://www.suedtirol.info/de/de/jahreszeiten/herbst/toerggelen
Info South Tyrol
Officially the "Autonomous Province of Bolzano - South Tyrol", the region is the northernmost province in Italy and borders Austria and Switzerland with an area of around 7400 square kilometres and around 530,000 inhabitants. Around 62 per cent of the population is German-speaking, 23 per cent Italian-speaking and around four per cent speak Ladin, an old Rhaeto-Romanic language that is mainly spoken in the Dolomite valleys.
South Tyrol's landscape is dominated in the north and east by the peaks of the Alps, including the Ortler, the highest mountain in the region at 3905 metres. The Dolomites characterise the eastern landscape. The Adige, one of the longest rivers in Italy, which has its source in South Tyrol, runs through the main valley. While alpine conditions prevail at higher altitudes, the lower regions, especially around Merano and Bolzano, enjoy an almost Mediterranean climate that favours the cultivation of wine and fruit. South Tyrol's apple orchards produce around ten per cent of Europe's apple harvest, while the vineyards are known for high-quality wines such as Vernatsch, Lagrein and Gewürztraminer. Six nature parks and the Stelvio National Park protect the region's biodiversity.
Bolzano is the provincial capital of the autonomous province of South Tyrol in Italy and the seat of the provincial government and parliament. The city lies in a basin surrounded on three sides by high mountain ranges: to the north by the Sarntal Alps, to the south-east by the Fiemme Alps and to the west by the Nonsberg group. Thanks to this special geographical location, Bolzano developed into an important trading centre early on. The Adige, Isarco and Talfer rivers flow through the city. However, as an important junction crossed by the Brenner motorway and the Brenner state road, the city also suffers from traffic. Since the 1990s, however, the cycle paths have been systematically developed into a functioning network; although it does not always meet the high standards for modern cycle paths that are common in Germany, it still allows road cyclists to cross the city safely and reasonably quickly.
All information about the region:
https://www.suedtirol.info/de/de
Don't miss it!
Timmelsjoch Pass Museum
Crossing the border: built on North Tyrolean soil, the impressive structure extends 16 metres into South Tyrol. Architect Werner Tscholl was inspired by local rock formations during the planning phase. The toll road (for motorised vehicles) leads from Ötztal in North Tyrol to Passeiertal in South Tyrol. In 2018, the museum structure "Timmel Transit" was opened on the South Tyrolean side to mark the 50th anniversary of the Timmelsjoch High Alpine Road and is dedicated entirely to the road construction history of this special panoramic road. https://www.tyrol.tl/en/highlights/museums-and-exhibitions/timmelsjoch-pass-museum/
Bike service
Former professional cyclist and Tour de France participant Claudio Camin is driven by a passion for bicycles and in-depth expertise. Centrally located in the south of Bolzano, he runs a 600 square metre specialist shop and workshop, offering top international brands such as Cannondale, Specialized & Co. as well as bikes from his own Camin brand. https://www.sportcamin.it/de
4 South Tyrol tours: map, altitude profiles, GPS data
Tour 1: Timmelsjoch
Beautifully symmetrical: The Timmelsjoch is not only a challenge as the Ötztaler finale; you can also tackle the pass "solo".
Tour 2: Passo Lavaze
Past the Karersee lake and up to the Passo Lavaze - you can take a short breather before the crisp finale. But you have to work your way back downhill on the way back.
Tour 3: Over the Mendel and Gampen Passes
The route over the Mendel Pass, Gampen Pass and Lana is something of a South Tyrolean classic that many South Tyrol fans enjoy cycling time and time again.
Tour 4: On the Ritten
A beautiful "Zieher" with fantastic views over Bolzano and the entire region. For example, a delightful aperitif on the day of arrival.
You can download the GPS data for the South Tyrol tours here:
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