We hadn’t even cycled two kilometres when I felt a searing pain. The stab of pain was rather like someone had rammed something into my stomach. Moran Vermeulen, my companion for today’s ride, laughs. I’m baffled. What’s so funny? Of course, I don’t ask that harshly – my manners wouldn’t allow it. I want to know why on earth he’s giggling like that. “You’ve definitely been bitten by a flying ant,” he explains. It’s rare for me to be lost for words. Now I can’t get a word out. An ant? “Yes,” he explains, adding that they’re currently flying about like mad right here.
Moran, who was born in the Netherlands and has been an Austrian citizen since his 18th birthday, and who lives with his brother Mika and his parents between the Dachstein massif, the Schladminger Tauern and the Grimming, reassures me, though. It’ll last a minute or two, he says, then the stinging pain will be over. I’m so baffled by the idea that there are flying ants here that, after just a few minutes, I’m already feeling rather bewildered by Styria.
Whilst the pain in my stomach disappeared very quickly, my legs started to make themselves felt ‘shortly afterwards’. Moran has chosen a lovely, steep route for my first day of the ‘Tour de Steiermark’, which begins in the Schladming-Dachstein region – best known in winter for its skiing facilities. The next day, I’ll head on to Eastern Styria, then to the south-east – a region that markets itself to tourists as ‘Thermal Springs & Volcano Country’ – before heading to Southern Styria for the grand finale. I knew, of course, that Styria has always attracted road cyclists. What has left a lasting impression on me, however, are the diverse and varied landscapes. Steep mountain passes, picturesque vineyards, stunning views and quiet back roads. It’s all there! The ‘Ameisenbiss’ is almost forgotten. Together with Moran, who is both sporting director at Continental Team Vorarlberg and a coach for numerous amateur athletes, I cycle from Weißenbach bei Haus along the Enns Cycle Route. Via Assach to Pruggern, then on towards Öblarn. Right from the start, Moran puts his foot down so hard that I’m absolutely delighted to be able to tuck into an espresso (and a little something from the cake display) there.
The Styrian Stelvio
Then, as he puts it, we head “up” to Mitterberg, to Gröbming and the legendary Stoderzinken. The “Friedenskircherl” there has already been voted the most beautiful spot in Austria – a top-class tourist attraction. We’re drawn more to the pass itself, though, which turns out to be one long, steep climb! For more than twelve kilometres and 1,075 metres of elevation gain, we pedal uphill along the road, which in some bends resembles the Stelvio Pass, the queen of all mountain passes. The view from the top is truly worth it. What do we see? Mountains, mountains, mountains. And the entire Enns Valley. No wonder – after all, we’ve just conquered Styria’s highest panoramic road.
Whilst we’re enjoying the view, a dark cloud suddenly drifts over the summit. One minute it was glorious sunshine; a few minutes later, a heavy downpour is already lashing down. Typical of a mountain summer! We take shelter, watching the wispy clouds drifting between the rocks. And we wait it out. Almost as quickly as the rain started, it’s all over. The clouds part, the sun comes out again, and the mountain landscape looks even more impressive than before. We end up staying longer than planned.
Admittedly, we do get a bit carried away chatting. Just a little. Up on the mountain. And again back at the hotel, in the sauna. That’s why we’re glad the Hartwegers have saved us some food from the buffet at the hotel of the same name. After all, we carry on chatting merrily all evening. About how Moran gets the very best out of his athletes, whose ‘pumps just keep getting bigger and bigger’. In this region, a great deal seems to revolve around cycling. This is certainly true of Heinz Hartweger, the hotel manager. He himself covers a good 6,000 to 7,000 kilometres every year, plus many times that in altitude. The hotel manager and Moran Vermeulen love the region above all for its steep climbs and beautiful mountain passes. They’re not alone in this. “In the last three or four years alone, the number of road cyclists has already doubled,” Heinz Hartweger has observed, and he intends to further expand his range of services for this target group.
Big-city charm in the countryside
In Eastern Styria, we meet up with Anna Fink, a road cyclist and member of staff at the tourism board, at the road bike shop ‘Friesi’s Bikery’. The ‘Bikery’ feels a bit like an Apple Store in Paris or New York – only with a range of cycling gear and located in Gleisdorf. A town with a few thousand inhabitants in the district of Weiz, around 20 kilometres from Graz. At the “Bikery”, I start by doing what I do best: chatting and drinking espresso. I’m having a chat with Simon, who runs the shop together with his brother Michael Friesenbichler. We’re talking about design and the latest road bike gadgets when Anna cuts in. “Lads, we’ve still got things to do!” she urges, raising an eyebrow.
Anna has logged the legendary ‘Christoph Strasser Loop’ for us. 217 kilometres, 3,870 metres of elevation gain. It leads from the bike shop in Gleisdorf first into the Almenland Nature Park, then on to Pöllau and Hartberg. This hardcore route is named after the man who made Eastern Styria his adopted home and won the Race Across America long-distance race six times, as well as the Transcontinental Race twice. Furthermore, the Styrian is the first person to have managed to cycle more than 1,000 kilometres in 24 hours. To be precise, 1,026.22 kilometres, which works out at an average speed of 42.75 km/h.
Twins who have travelled far and wide
There’s no denying that the prominence of the route’s patron creates a certain amount of pressure. We’re going flat out. The route is an absolute dream, combining wonderful terrain with roads that have very little traffic; it’s particularly charming on the section between the Teichalm, the Sommeralm and the Stoakoglhütte. There’s no time for a long stop, though; Anna is urging us on, at least as far as the Weizerhütte. It looks like a chalet in Kitzbühel, only cooler and more laid-back. It’s run by 23-year-old twins Alexander and Christoph. Before the lads opened the Weizerhütte in St. Kathrein am Offenegg at an altitude of just under 1,000 metres, they travelled the world, picked out the best bits and brought them back to Eastern Styria. Today they serve home-cooked food, but with a young and modern twist, says Alexander.
Anna’s pushing on again; after all, we’ve still got quite a few kilometres to go on the Christoph Strasser circuit. Now I know why his podcast is called ‘Sitzfleisch’. We sit and sit. Even so, we have to cut the ride short a bit, as I still need to return the Ridley test bike to “Friesi’s Bikery”, which I hired there for a reasonable fee. It’s a great bike! Simon says that if I were to buy it, the hire fee would be deducted from the price. But we’ve got to get a move on – Styria’s a big place.
That very evening, we meet up with Christian from the tourist board, who, over the next 24 hours, will drum into me over and over again that the region we’re now cycling through is called ‘Thermen- & Vulkanland’ following a merger. When we arrive at the Genusshotel Riegersburg in the evening, we’re truly blown away. We walk to reception and all we can see out of the windows is Riegersburg Castle. The impressive structure sits majestically atop a 482-metre-high extinct volcano. “There’s one thing I can tell you straight away,” says a man standing next to me suddenly, introducing himself as “Jürgen”, the hotel manager: “Tomorrow you’ll see the castle almost everywhere, no matter where we are.”
Around Riegersburg Castle
The man has worked as a manager all over the world and has been back in his home country for a few years now. What bothered him a little was that, whilst the south-east of Styria has an outstanding network of cycle paths, hardly anyone knows about it. So he got together with his friend David, an IT specialist. The pair researched what the infrastructure had to offer and then cycled the entire route on their road bikes. The result, according to Jürgen, is absolutely unique: the ‘Vulcania 300’ is Austria’s longest continuous circular cycle route. What’s more, the entire route runs away from busy main roads. However, we hope to avoid ‘merging’ with the volcanic landscape, as mentioned on the Vulcania website. Otherwise, as cyclists, we find the concept appeals to us in a stylish way. The website features a list of finishers, on which you can be mentioned if you complete the route within the specified time. To do so, you must have your map stamped at five checkpoints. The route can be completed in one (Gold), two (Silver) or even three days (Bronze).
The section we’re cycling today is a dream. Short climbs up, then down again. And whenever you look round, there it is: Riegersburg Castle. Almost like a game of cat and mouse. At some point, though, you do lose sight of it. By the time you reach Sankt Anna am Aigen at Franz’s, at the very latest. Franz runs a coffee roastery, Maitz Kaffee GmbH, right in the middle of the vineyards. There, he roasts highland Arabica beans from far afield. Anyone passing by here simply has to stop. The tiramisu? Delicious! The cream slices? Yum! The cakes? Absolutely amazing! Then the journey continues via the Vulkanlandwarte, Mureck, St. Stefan im Rosental, Feldbach, and back to Riegersburg.
There, we are treated to a feast by head chef Rainer Kaufmann; very upmarket, yet always with a regional touch, as seen in the Riegersburg venison shoulder, the Eltendorf catfish fillet – which photographer Daniel opts for – or the Weiz lamb shoulder, with which hotel manager and tour guide Jürgen replenishes his energy. We leave the ‘Thermal & Volcanic Region’ with many wonderful memories and a certain sense of contented tiredness.
A mild climate in southern Styria
Off we go, heading south. David Schöggl is already waiting for us there. He runs his own advertising agency, but at first glance he could just as easily pass for a professional cyclist who’s just popped into his office by chance. “I’ll admit,” says the man whose WhatsApp status reads “probably on my bike right now”, “that I might cycle a bit more than others.” When does he cycle? “All the time,” he says. Right! He doesn’t care what bike he rides. David rides mountain bikes, gravel bikes and road bikes. As we climb the pass towards St. Anna ob Schwanberg, with its beautifully situated chapel, I ask him what else he’s got planned for the coming weeks. The Ötztal Cycle Marathon is coming up, he says. And he’d certainly be interested in the Super Giro Dolomiti too. Interested? “Ultimately, I want to be on the podium at all of them,” he says that evening at the Martinhof, as he wolfs down a plate of pasta in record time.
Then, in the evening, we’ll check in at Thomas Pichler’s Weinlandhof. The hotel in Gamlitz, southern Styria, says the road-cycling owner, is the ideal starting point for a host of destinations for all road cyclists along the Styrian Wine Route. Strictly speaking, there are three wine routes: the Schilcher, the Sausaler and the South Styrian. The hotel is also the ideal meeting place every spring – or, to be more precise, in early April. In most parts of Central Europe, you can only cycle in long trousers and long-sleeved tops at this time of year, says the hotel manager, adding: “Not here.” During his legendary cycling event ‘Woamfoahn’ – meaning ‘warming up’ – the Weinlandhof is packed to the rafters. The hotel can accommodate 120 guests, and 120 road cyclists are here in April. “So road cyclists don’t necessarily have to hop on a plane to Gran Canaria. As a rule, nobody here needs a jacket,” says Thomas, with whom we have a beer in the evening before collapsing into bed. After all, the doorbell rings at half past six the next morning, just like an alarm clock.
Panoramic tour
On the last day of the Styria tour, Thomas wants to show me his panoramic route. The sun is rising, and the rolling countryside, with its stunning views and picturesque vineyards, really is at its most beautiful. We set off from Leutschach an der Weinstraße, the largest wine-growing community in Styria, then cycle along the old Kellerstraße to the South Styrian Wine Route. There, we’re greeted by rustic wine taverns, stylish vineyards and traditional inns. I’m overwhelmed; the sunrise against this backdrop is truly one of the most beautiful moments I’ve experienced on a road bike in recent years. Then we dash back. After all, even the most beautiful road cycling trip must come to an end at some point. Before I leave Styria for good, however, I treat myself to a Styrian fried chicken salad; photographer Daniel orders homemade ravioli stuffed with spinach and cream cheese, Styrian mountain cheese and a salad of young spinach leaves. For dessert, I have classic choux pastry doughnuts with fresh strawberries and lukewarm chocolate, whilst Daniel has the baked quark cake with raspberries and whipped cream. I envy Thomas – both for the beauty of this road cycling region and for his wife, Rosemarie. Rosemarie is the head chef. Every extra day here would probably mean an extra kilo on my ribs. I’ve got to get going.
What remains? A wonderful trip. I can’t say which part I liked best. What I do know is that, should I ever travel to Styria again, I’d start from the end. So first to the south, then to the thermal spas and extinct volcanoes, followed by the east and then the Dachstein region. Perhaps by then there won’t be any more biting flying ants out and about, out to get me.
Tour Information for Styria
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
Getting here
By car
Whether you’re coming from the north, south, west or east – you can reach Styria by car from anywhere. A vignette is compulsory on Austrian motorways and expressways; it costs 9.60 euros for (now) one day, 12.80 euros for ten days, 32 euros for two months or 106.80 euros for a full-year vignette. The ‘Pickerl’ is available at over 6,000 sales outlets, such as petrol stations and at border crossings, as well as in digital form via the Asfinag toll shop.
By bus
The long-distance coach operator FlixBus offers affordable journeys from numerous European cities to Graz, Liezen, Leoben and Pinggau in Eastern Styria. The Thermenlandbus operates the route from Vienna to the six thermal spas in the Thermen- & Vulkanland region.
By train
Thanks to the new Koralm Tunnel, travelling by train has become more appealing and quicker; there are also more services than before. Info: steiermark.com/suedbahn https://www.unsereoebb.at/de/suedstrecke
By plane
The only international airport in Styria is Graz Airport. Alternatively, you can fly via Salzburg Airport or Vienna Airport and then take the train on to Graz.
TOUR OF STYRIA
Day 1: Schladming–Dachstein
The starting point for our tour of Styria was Hotel Hartweger’s. It is situated in the west of Styria, in Haus im Ennstal. In recent years, the hotel has specialised in catering for sporty guests – particularly road cyclists. This is partly because the hotel manager, Heinz Hartweger, is himself a keen cyclist. Info https://www.hotel-hartweger.at/
Day 2: Eastern Styria
‘Friesi’s Bikery’ in Gleisdorf is a great meeting place for all cycling enthusiasts. The brothers Simon and Michael Friesenbichler run a very well-stocked bike shop there, around 20 kilometres from Graz. Infohttps://www.testyournext.com/
Our cycle tour that day took us along the legendary Christoph Strasser Circuit, which is dedicated to the successful extreme cyclist and multiple winner of the Race Across America. A highly recommended place to stop for a break is the Weizerhütte in St. Kathrein am Offenegg. The hosts are twin brothers Alexan der and Christoph Pöllabauer. Although they are only 23 years old, they have already gained a wealth of experience through their professional roles in Austria and neighbouring countries. Info: https://www.weizerhuette.at/
Well worth a visit
In the heart of Pöllau stands the castle, or rather the former Augustinian monastery of Pöllau. The floor plan of the church and the imposing domed structure were modelled on St Peter’s Basilica in Rome – which is why the building is often referred to as the ‘Styrian St Peter’s’. The High Baroque collegiate church is particularly renowned for its large-scale and artistically exquisite frescoes. Guided tours of the castle are available.
Info https://www.schloesserstrasse.com/de/schloss-poellau
Day 3: To the Thermal Springs and Volcanoes Region
The Thermen- & Vulkanland is a tourist region that geographically forms part of south-eastern or eastern Styria. It is essentially centred around the spa towns of Bad Radkersburg, Bad Gleichenberg, Bad Loipersdorf, Bad Waltersdorf, Bad Blumau and Sebersdorf. When you arrive at the Genusshotel Riegersburg (in the village of the same name), you’re quickly a little overwhelmed – by the view of the castle opposite, which is also called Riegersburg. It stands proud and mighty atop the 482-metre-high volcanic rock. Throughout the centuries of its existence, Riegersburg Castle has never been conquered.
Info https://www.genusshotel-riegersburg.at/
Vulcania 300
On what its inventor, Jürgen Höfler, claims is Austria’s longest continuous cycle route, you cycle almost entirely away from busy roads. The circuit passes through dozens of villages and towns in the Thermen- & Vulkanland region, which is characterised by the cones of extinct volcanoes. The route takes you through idyllic countryside, vast orchards – and occasionally up a few fairly steep inclines.
Info https://vulcania300.bike/
Anyone needing to top up their calories on the long Vulcania tour might want to stop off at Franz Maitz’s Maitz Coffee Roastery in St. Anna am Aigen. As well as speciality coffees, they serve delicious sweets there.
Info https://www.maitz-kaffee.at/
Day 4: Final in Southern Styria
There are hotels where road cyclists are welcome. And then there’s Thomas Pichler from the Weinlandhof in Gamlitz. He has tailored his newly refurbished hotel specifically to cyclists: Every spring, this keen road cyclist kicks off the season with the ‘Woam Foahn’ package, because thanks to the mild climate, the road cycling season here starts as early as March (and lasts until late November). Guests can look forward to gently undulating roads through the picturesque hilly landscape of Southern Styria, past vineyards, cosy wine taverns and numerous other places to stop for refreshments.
Info https://www.weinlandhof.at/
TIP
After four days in Styria, you might well have developed something of a taste for Styrian pumpkin seed oil. If so, it’s well worth a visit to the Hartlieb oil mill, which was once a grain mill and sawmill. The Hartliebs opened the region’s first ‘Pumpkin Seed Oil Museum’ back in 1990. Info https://www.hartlieb.at/
Info: Styria
Styria is Austria’s second-largest federal state. It borders the federal states of Carinthia, Salzburg, Upper Austria, Lower Austria and Burgenland – and Slovenia to the south. The capital and largest city in Styria by population is Graz.
The federal state is characterised by its diverse landscape. This ranges from the alpine north, centred on the 2,995-metre-high Dachstein and the Gesäuse mountain range. Towards the south and east, the terrain flattens out and gives way to the undulating thermal springs and volcanic landscape, as well as the vineyards. Away from the major national roads, the state boasts a dense network of tarmacked farm tracks and quiet side roads, which are ideal for long rides.
Southern and Eastern Styria are characterised by a constant, rhythmic undulation. The climbs through the vineyards are often short, but can be extremely steep. Thanks to the almost Mediterranean climate in the south, the road cycling season there begins much earlier than in the inner Alpine valleys and often extends well into the mild autumn.
No road cycling tour in Styria is complete without a stop at a traditional Buschenschank or a local inn. Regional specialities often feature the famous Styrian pumpkin seed oil
Styria tours to follow
Schladming-Dachstein | Stoderzinken, 72.6 km, 1,532 metres of elevation gain
From Weißenbach bei Haus, the route follows the Enns Cycle Route via Assach to Pruggern, then continues towards Öblarn. It then leads up to the Mitterberg, on to Gröbming and up the legendary Stoderzinken. The ‘Friedenskircherl’ attracts numerous day-trippers. The climb covers more than twelve kilometres and 1,075 metres of elevation gain. From Styria’s highest panoramic road, sweeping views open up across the entire Enns Valley.
Eastern Styria | 217 km, 3,700 metres of elevation gain
The route essentially follows the “Christoph Strasser Loop”, but is a shorter version of the full route, which covers a total of 217 kilometres and 3,870 metres of elevation gain. It leads from the bike shop in Gleisdorf into the Almenland Nature Park, then on to Pöllau and Hartberg; the section between the Teichalm, the Sommeralm and the Stoakoglhütte is particularly scenic.
Thermal Springs & Volcano Country | 43 km, 316 metres of elevation gain
The route is based on the ‘Vulcania 300’, Austria’s longest continuous cycle route. However, this section is limited to a short, leisurely loop around Riegersburg.
Southern Styria | 111 km, 1,586 metres of elevation gain
The tour starts in Leutschach on the Wine Route, the largest wine-growing community in Styria, and then follows the old Cellar Route to the South Styrian Wine Route.
