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Sporty cycling in trainers and with flat pedals is not a good idea: the shoe slips off the pedal the first time you pedal hard, or the soles of your feet burn after a few kilometres because the soft sneaker sole gives way when you pedal and your foot has to do all the supporting and holding work on the pedal. Anyone who has already experienced this knows that the connection between shoe and pedal is a sensitive one. There are a few factors to consider to ensure that the right binding is found quickly and without expensive failed attempts. Roughly speaking, the intended use and individual needs determine the pair binding.
The choice of pedals is easier than the choice of shoes; you can read valuable tips on this below. However, it's worth taking a look at the subject in principle and without cycling ideological blinkers: The pedals for road bikes and for mountain bikes hardly differ in their function and so little in their appearance that even convinced road cyclists might well consider screwing mountain bike pedals onto their road bike, because: This opens up the possibility of wearing cycling shoes from the rack for mountain or gravel bikers, with which you can go much better. As both off-road shoes and pedals are generally less sensitive to dirt, they can also be recommended to weatherproof all-season cyclists.
There is a huge variety of brands and models of cycling shoes. Good to know: The manufacturers usually use the same fit or the same last within their range; the road bike, gravel or mountain bike shoes from one manufacturer therefore generally fit wider or narrower feet, for example. Road bike shoes with laces are few and far between; they are either retro shoes or shoes designed to be lightweight. Lace-up shoes can be sensitively adjusted to the foot, but this requires careful lacing - which takes time - and is only possible when standing still. You have to stop to readjust them on the move.
This is not the only reason why the twist fastener is state of the art, as it enables comfortable putting on and taking off as well as fine adjustment in the twinkling of an eye. The market leader is Boa, whose twist fasteners of different quality levels can be found on the models of almost all shoe manufacturers. The exceptions are Sidi, Ekoi and Northwave, which use their own fasteners or those from Atop. Rule of thumb: The expensive top models have several or only twist fasteners, cheaper shoes usually combine a twist fastener with Velcro straps. However, this usually says little about the ability to adjust the shoe precisely to the foot, which can be achieved just as well with Velcro straps.
Cycling shoes should have a sole that is as stiff as possible so that you don't bend the shoe when pedalling and the power is transferred to the pedals. In top competition models, the sole therefore consists of a few layers of carbon laminate, which only moves by around one millimetre even under sprinter's power. However, this extreme hardness takes some getting used to and is not necessarily recommended for more tour-orientated cyclists and long days on the bike; slightly more flexible soles prove to be more comfortable and hardly less energy-saving.
It is also important that the foot does not slip in the shoe; this is regulated by the shape and material of the tongue or upper shoe and the contour of the heel section. Slippage at the heel is particularly annoying in the long run. Incidentally, it seems to be a trend that manufacturers are often only putting thin to shapeless flaps as insoles in their cycling shoes, even in expensive models. Perhaps they assume that most cyclists will retrofit customised insoles anyway. This is also the most important tuning tip when it comes to cycling shoes: in our experience, the right or customised insole is much more decisive for an efficient, power- and joint-friendly pedal stroke than the shoe model.
For all shoe types - road, gravel, mountain bike - the spectrum ranges from lightweight, stiff-soled (and expensive) competition pros to comfort shoes. We provide an overview of the features and differences. Plus: a sensible alternative to trainers.
Competition shoes fit very tightly, are very light and usually very expensive. The lightest models with an upper shoe made of thin parachute material weigh just 400 grams per pair in size 43. The thin carbon soles are so stiff that they bend just over a millimetre under a load of 50 kilos. Boa fasteners that can be turned in both directions, allowing the shoe to be precisely tightened or widened at any time, are standard. In order to achieve the low weight, the upper material of competition shoes is usually light, airy, permeable to perspiration and, as a result, may not be particularly robust. Ergonomically moulded insoles may or may not be included. The stiff sole requires familiarisation.
The all-rounder is significantly cheaper than the top class, but technically hardly any worse. The best price-performance ratio is offered by shoes with a carbon sole plus a twist lock that can be opened and closed by turning to the left or right while riding. Ergonomically adapted soles are the exception.
Some manufacturers derive the gravel pedal more from a road bike model, others from a mountain bike shoe; the focus can vary accordingly, but the orientation towards an off-road pedal system is typical. It makes sense to protect the edges and have a grippy sole suitable for walking; how hard it should be depends on the intended use. Gravel racers prefer a hard, rigid sole, touring bikers a softer one that makes walking easier.
Depending on the manufacturer, the sporty mountain bike shoe can also be found as a gravel shoe. It is the ideal companion for all-terrain and all-weather cyclists, regardless of the bike. Its pedal system is insensitive to dirt and thanks to the cleats sunk into the tread sole, you have a secure footing on any terrain and can walk well in them. Competition models for off-road riding offer similar advantages and disadvantages to professional road cycling shoes. The twist lock is also standard in this category, but depending on its position on the shoe, it is much more susceptible to impacts and falls in off-road terrain.
For performance-oriented cyclists, this is of course no substitute for the fixed connection between shoe and pedal - but better than any trainers or sneakers, freeride shoes are definitely suitable for sporty cycling if you don't want clipless pedals. The thick sole is still stiff enough to apply power to the pedals, the walking characteristics are very good and the look is casual.
Twist fasteners, Velcro straps, carbon or composite soles and other details make all the difference when looking for the right shoe. We show you the most important features
The Velcro fastener is inexpensive, flexible, light, uncomplicated and relatively dirt-resistant. It can also be loosened or tightened during the journey. Disadvantages: Soft straps can stretch on hot days; as the strap does not cover the entire instep, several straps have to be operated individually, depending on the shoe model. Twist fasteners are becoming more and more standard. However, there are clear differences. With the simple models, the lacing can only be tightened gradually; to loosen it, the lacing must be completely released (by pulling upwards) and tightened again. The higher quality knobs can be turned in both directions, allowing the lacing to be tightened and loosened. Ratchet fasteners are becoming increasingly rare; laces are only found on retro or emphatically lightweight models.
The sole is the foundation of the shoe and is decisive for the intended use and riding or pedalling feel. Competition shoes of all categories are based on thin, light and stiff carbon soles for loss-free power transmission to the pedals. Stiff soles can extend the life of the shoe, but quickly become unsightly due to scratches. Very stiff shoe soles can cause burning, tingling soles or even pain (especially if you don't get used to them). Less stiff and less expensive are fibre-reinforced plastic soles; cleverly placed rubber blocks can make walking easier and air slits can improve the foot climate in summer.
Padding, tongue and insole determine the support and comfort in the shoe.
The shoe size actually fits, but the heel is slipping? Pads at this point are effective stoppers to keep narrow heels in place. People with wide heels should make sure they have enough space. The tongue should be large and padded to avoid pressure points; the tongue edge on the foot should be flexible and without a hard edge that always presses on the same spot.
Ergonomically shaped insoles, for example for arch support, are offered by manufacturers such as Giro, Scott and Specialized for their top shoes. Accessory companies such as Ergon have standardised insoles in their range that can alleviate discomfort or improve performance. Specialist Solestar offers customised insoles. Customised insoles are the number one tuning tip for more comfort and performance in cycling shoes!
The firm connection between the shoes and the bike is part of the road bike riding experience. Explosive acceleration, pulling on the pedals and not letting a single grain of energy go to waste - all of this works better when the shoe is held securely on the pedal.
Pedal systems and associated cleats are fixed pairings of the manufacturers and are usually not compatible with each other. However, there is one principle that unites them all: with a powerful kick, you can get into the pedal and with a twist of the heel you can get out. In the event of a fall, the pedals release automatically.
Clipless pedals hold the foot securely and enable ergonomic pedalling. The functionality of the pedals is quite similar across all manufacturers, even inexpensive models from 50 euros are good. Price differences are more noticeable with shoes than with pedals.
Not every pedal fits every shoe, there are three types of sole:
Classics from the inventor of the automatic pedal from France. The design of the pedals is similar across all price categories, with the more expensive models being lighter. A carbon spring plate is used in the top models. A titanium axle is also available (price range 50 to 300 euros) >> e.g. available here.
A large number of suppliers produce variants of the standard three-hole system, including well-known suppliers such as Time, which has just introduced a new pedal.
Minimalist system with large, adjustable freedom of rotation. The plates really do rotate freely; the spring mechanism is located in the pedal plate and is susceptible to interference from dirt. The system is unsuitable for walking - at least without the optional rubber pads. Bike fitters love Speedplay because of the wide range of axle lengths and the possibility of correcting the position of the foot on the pedal using pads. Mounting on three-hole soles using an adapter is fiddly (price range 150 to 450 euros >> e.g. available here).
Basically a copy of the Look system, although the cleat has been improved, especially with regard to walking. The different qualities are reflected in the weight and the bearing quality; in the TOUR test, even inexpensive models performed well. The main bearing of the Ultegra model is a plain bearing, the Dura-Ace model has a more complex bearing. Shimano's seal quality is consistently good, and a wider axle is available as an option (price range 50 to 250 euros >> available here).
Off-road classic from Japan, for off-road use and for road cyclists who want to use shoes that are suitable for walking. The pedal plate made of hardened steel is extremely wear-resistant and also works in the dirt. Another advantage over road pedals: you can really walk with this system. Even for kilometres. The biggest disadvantage: The foot tilts sideways if the cleats on the sole are too low or worn and do not rest firmly on the pedal body, which affects the pedalling feel.

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