Buying a gravel bikeThese 12 must-haves you need now (plus 5 upgrades)

Sandra Schuberth

 · 15.03.2026

Buying a gravel bike: these 12 must-haves you need now (plus 5 upgrades)Photo: Wolfgang Papp

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You've bought a gravel bike - congratulations. Now comes the part that makes the difference between fun and frustration: the right basic equipment, from helmet to puncture repair kit. These basics ensure that you are safe, comfortable and stress-free on every route.

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So that you are ready to go straight away, here is a clear list of must-haves (for safety and breakdowns) plus useful extras that noticeably increase comfort and performance. You shouldn't set off without a helmet and goggles. You don't have to start out with cycling goggles, everyday glasses are enough to keep out a lot of dust, insects and sun. Tools and a first aid kit will keep you safe.

The 12 must-haves for the start

1. helmet (without discussion)

A well-fitting helmet is your most important safety product. It is crucial for protection that you put the helmet on correctly. Pay attention to the correct size, adjustment system, good ventilation and ideally a MIPS-like protection system that protects your brain better in the event of a fall.

Quick check:

  • Helmet sits horizontally, not on the neck
  • No wobbling when shaking your head
  • Chin strap: two fingers of space, no more

A helmet only helps if it fits properly and sits correctly.

2. mini repair kit or plug kit (depending on setup)

I don't wish you a flat tyre. But sooner or later it will happen. Whether you need a classic puncture repair kit or special tubeless patches depends on whether you ride with a tube or without a tube but with sealant.

3. spare inner tube (yes, even with tubeless)

Changing a broken inner tube is usually quicker than repairing it on the road. You can do this in peace and quiet at home. Even if you are travelling tubeless, I recommend packing a suitable inner tube. Most holes in the tyre are sealed by the sealant, for some you need a plug, but sometimes even that is not enough. Then only a tube will help.

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Take at least one suitable hose with you. For the replacement hose, make sure that the valve type the same is the same as on your bike. The valve length must also match: With high rims you need longer valves.

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4. tyre lever (stable, not too soft)

Tyre levers are small, light and save nerves. You don't want cheap levers that break off, especially with tight gravel tyres. Schwalbe tyre levers haven't disappointed me yet and don't cost much >> at Rosebikes or Amazon available.

5. multitool

A solid multi-tool covers the most common screws (Allen/Torx), so you can solve almost all small problems on the road. An integrated chain tool is also practical in case a chain breaks on the road.

6. air pump

You need a reliable way to repressurise when you are on the road. Make sure that the pump fits your valve. Most gravel bikes are equipped with Presta or racing bike valves installed.

  • Mini pump: Reliable, permitted everywhere, somewhat slower
  • Electronic air pump: Very fast and convenient, but dependent on battery/charge level (and often somewhat heavier)

Tip: Before your first tour, try out how to inflate the tyre with your pump.

7. mini first aid kit

As with tools, there is always the hope of carrying a first aid kit for nothing. If something does happen, it's good to have something with you. A small set is enough, ranging from Cyclite is designed for cycling.

8. bicycle lights (even if you "only ride during the day")

I always look at how I perceive other people in traffic and I have to admit that without lights at dusk or in the dark I often only see others late. Bike lights are essential. Not only at night, but also during the day when visibility changes. A small light set that can be charged via USB-C is an important safety feature for you, even if you can still see enough yourself.

9. water bottles + bottle cage (or hydration system)

You can put a bottle in a rucksack. But then you'll always have a rucksack with you - and if you fall on your back, you'll land directly on the bottle. With Bottle cage on the bike plus matching water bottle you can even drink while riding - provided you can spare a hand from the handlebars.

10. saddle bag or frame/handlebar bag

All that stuff has to go somewhere. There are bikes with a small "boot" in the down tube. You can usually fit the essentials you need for a breakdown in there. If your bike doesn't have a boot, we recommend a small saddle bag that always stays on the bike. That way you always have everything with you. In a Frame bag or Top tube bag there is room for a first aid kit, snacks, wallet and other small items.

11. chain lubricant + small cloth

Whether Wax or oil you decide. Wax has advantages, but is much more time-consuming, especially at the beginning. To start with, I recommend oiling the chain regularly and wiping off excess oil with a cloth.

Practical for bikepacking tours: a mini bottle for on the go, a large bottle for at home.

12th lock (stop briefly without stomach ache)

  • For everyday life: a solid lock (Here's a bike lock test)
  • For short stops on the way: an immobiliser in the form of a mini lock, which is not really secure but better than nothing

5 upgrades for more comfort and control

1. cycling shoes (with matching pedals)

You can cycle in trainers. However, soft running shoes in particular can cause your feet to fall asleep. Firmer soles are better. Clipless pedals allow you to ride more efficiently and with more control, but you first have to get used to them and you may tip over to one side once or twice at the beginning if you have to stop suddenly and are not yet familiar with the system. With a little practice, however, this will become automatic. You can find a large selection of cycling shoes at Bike Components or Bike24.

2. cycling shorts

You can wear any sports trousers to start with. However, seams in the crotch area can quickly become irritating. That's why I recommend wearing invest in a good pair of cycling shorts. They should not be too loose, as this can cause friction. Most cycling shorts have padding in the seat area to distribute the pressure evenly. Make sure the padding is firm and the trousers fit well. With or without bibs? I'm in favour of with. In the long run, at least for me, this is much more comfortable on the stomach, as nothing cuts into it.

3rd jersey (pockets = game changer)

You can wear a T-shirt for cycling. A cycling jersey is more aerodynamic, the high collar prevents insects from flying in and possibly stinging and cycling jerseys usually have pockets on the back for essentials during the ride.

4. gloves

You need gloves when it's cold. They don't have to be specific cycling gloves. But gloves are also useful in summer. In the event of a fall, first the gloves get scratched, then your hands. I often wear thin long-fingered gloves even in the height of summer. Otherwise I can often brake less precisely with sweaty hands. Short-fingered gloves are also an option.

5. cycling goggles

Actually, a Glasses is one of the must-haves. They protect your eyes from dust, insects, wind and low sun. You can put on any pair of (sunglasses) for the time being. However, sports glasses are shaped in such a way that they keep out as much wind - and therefore dirt - as possible and protect your eyes better than everyday glasses.

What you really need

CategoryMust-have for the startOptional upgrade
SecurityHelmet, light, mini first aid kitGloves, glasses
Roadside assistanceTube/plug kit, tyre lever, multitool, pump/CO₂Valve core tool, replacement brake pads
TransportSaddle bag or frame bagHandlebar bag, top tube bag
ComfortDrinking bottles/bottle holdersCycling shorts, jersey, cycling shoes

Conclusion: first secure, then optimise

If you only take one thing with you after buying a gravel bike, it's this: safety and puncture protection first. Then comes comfort and performance. If you are in constant pain on the bike, something is not working properly and it is advisable to check the seating position with saddle height, saddle angle, handlebar position and, if you are riding with clipless pedals, the position of the pedal plates under the shoe. The fitting will also check whether the saddle you are riding fits your bum at all.


Psst: You've never changed a hose before? No problem. With a little practice, it's not that difficult. You can attend a mechanics course for beginners - maybe there's one in your neighbourhood. Alternatively, you can find lots of good tutorials online. I can particularly recommend the video by Anke is Awesome: She shows you step by step what to do and also has tips if you don't get it right first time.

Sandra Schuberth, sometimes an after-work ride, sometimes a training ride, sometimes an unsupported bikepacking challenge. The main thing is her and her gravel bike - away from the traffic. Seven Serpents, Badlands or Bright Midnight: she has finished challenging bikepacking races. Gravel and bikepacking are her favourite subjects, and her demands on equipment are high. What she rides, uses and recommends has to stand the test of time: not in marketing, but in real life.

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