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Long-sleeved vests: Short & sweet
Especially on long rides in cold conditions, the vest has a major impact on your well-being. Our practical test with more than 50 samples, combined with laboratory measurements, led to clear recommendations. However, the results are not transferable to other, supposedly similar products. However, our experience with the various knit types and fibre blends shows that most manufacturers can control the function in a targeted manner.
Test long-sleeved vests
How unsexy is that? Long-sleeved functional shirts are not necessarily the kind of cycling material that triggers have reflexes: grey, dark blue or black, usually made of plastic and often smelly and sweaty after just one hour. Over the years, many models come and go through my personal collection. But then there is the one that stays: a vest that is at least ten years old, discoloured by countless washes, worn out at the collar - but simply a favourite.
What makes it so is revealed by a thorough feel: your favourite vest buffers a wide temperature range, doesn't crease even under tight jerseys and doesn't pinch anywhere. It hardly stinks. The sleeves are long and tight enough and the collar is the right height. That's actually everything. But what sounds so simple is actually the exception rather than the rule. The matter is quite individual, because one person's favourite shirt is by no means suitable for everyone else. So is it all coincidence? No, then again it's not. And that's where it gets interesting.
TOUR requested long-sleeved functional shirts from the relevant manufacturers, which in their opinion are particularly suitable for cycling training in cold weather. At first glance, the result looks pretty homogeneous: slim cut, black, grey, predominantly synthetic fibres. But when you take a second look at the material label, things get interesting. Unlike jerseys, where only two to three types of fibre are used, the shirts in the test are made from a total of seven different materials, up to five of them in a single shirt!
Which blend is used certainly also has something to do with raw material prices, delivery conditions and any processing difficulties. However, the question of what the long-sleeved vest should ultimately achieve is crucial when choosing a material. And that is a very complex matter.
As a power plant, the body is optimised to a core temperature of around 37 degrees. If the temperature is too high or too low, not only does performance drop, but it also quickly becomes life-threatening. At the same time, the human machine operates in a very wide speed range and generates very variable amounts of waste heat. Sitting at a desk, the heat output should be around 100 watts, while the waste heat is already around 600 watts at an average pedalling power of 200 watts - humans are not more than 25 percent efficient.
Factor six between rest and training, and therefore a technical challenge. We compensate for temperatures that are too low with clothing and too high with evaporation. The sweat we produce should evaporate as close to the body as possible for the best effect. The difficult task for textile engineers: functional shirts must support this cooling, but at the same time dry so quickly that they do not continue to cool during rest periods. An almost impossible task, because not only the waste heat, but also the type and number of layers of clothing and the weather change frequently.
I have one wish for the cuts: the thicker and warmer a baselayer is, the higher the collar should be. (Sandra Schuberth, online editor)
Fibre materials are at the top of the textile toolbox. It is known from laboratory tests that elastane, for example, which supports the fit, dries poorly. Or that polypropylene absorbs practically no water, while polyester and polyamide do so to a certain extent. The behaviour of wool and cotton has also been well studied, as has the feel of all these fabrics. No fibre performs as well as desired, regardless of moisture and temperature. Textile experts are therefore forced to optimise their product for certain external conditions and for certain training intensities through the choice and mix of materials.
The structure of the knitted fabric is also very important. Many functional shirts in the test have a different structure on the inside than on the outside: coarse meshes or loops are designed to draw perspiration to the surface of the shirt by capillary action, where it evaporates - close to the skin, but not directly on the skin - to cool or is passed on to the next layer of clothing.
I've tried it many times, but wool doesn't work for me when cycling. I might wear a merino shirt for hiking. (Christoph Allwang, Head of Laboratory and Workshop)
Merino wool plays a special role in this toolbox. This particularly fine sheep's wool stores a relatively large amount of moisture in its fibres before it is soaking wet and therefore hardly insulates at all. A merino shirt with, for example, 50 per cent moisture will therefore be more comfortable to wear than a cotton shirt with the same water content.
It also feels different to synthetic fibres. But wool polarises opinion: While the Odlo model was praised for being softer on the skin, Sportful and Icebreaker were criticised in part for being scratchy. We would also only recommend thick wool shirts such as those from Odlo or Icebreaker to a limited extent for people who sweat a lot or for intensive training due to their drying behaviour.
Long-sleeved vests: some smell, some don't
The indisputable advantage of merino wool, from which three of our eleven patterns are entirely or predominantly knitted: The natural material develops practically no perspiration odour. This is due to the decomposition of sweat by bacterial strains - which do not colonise wool, but are happy to do so on synthetic fibres. It is almost impossible to predict on which synthetic fibre they will do this. In addition, odour susceptibility often only develops after many washes. Two shirts (GripGrab and UYN) had an antibacterial finish - a controversial extra from a dermatological point of view, as it is said to disrupt the natural skin flora. What's more, the effect wears off over time anyway.
In addition to the fibre blend, the fit also contributes significantly to wearing comfort. Shirts that fit like they have been painted on generally promote thermoregulation due to their surface contact with the skin, and they can also be worn under short-sleeved jerseys in the transitional season with their arm cuff look. Falke, GripGrab, UYN and Van Rysel follow this path very consistently. These highly elasticated, low-seam shirts are somewhat awkward to put on, especially when the skin is damp. Not everyone likes the tight fit, but three of the four best in the test are functional.
There can hardly be a single test winner in this product area. The boundary conditions are too diverse, the requirements for personal well-being too individual. Nevertheless, we are sure that our recommendations will help to avoid bad purchases - in unexpected co-operation with the manufacturers. Many of them provide information on the area of application of their long-sleeved undergarments in the depths of the product description. They largely agree with our findings.
Long-sleeved vests - How TOUR tests them
>> The requirement: For the test of long-sleeved cycling vests for cyclists, the manufacturers were largely free to choose the samples. Neither the base material nor the area of use were specified.
>> The practical test: Because laboratory tests can only test partial aspects of the function of the long-sleeved vests, TOUR ordered four to six copies of each sample. In total, more than 50 samples were given to experienced cyclists, who assessed the shirts on questionnaires at the end of each training session. The findings, such as the fit, feel and body climate, were discussed with the test subjects. A second stage of the practical test was carried out on the ergometer at constant performance and outside temperature.
>> The laboratory tests: Moisture absorption and the drying process give an indication of the area of use. We immersed the shirts in water for half an hour, allowed them to drip dry and spun them briefly in the washing machine to eliminate waterlogging. During further drying, the shirts were weighed at regular intervals and the moisture content recorded.
After four hours, the moisture content was below five per cent of the material weight in almost all cases. The majority of the shirts are knitted in two layers. The inside and outside differ in structure and, in some cases, material. The aim is to achieve a low, defined level of moisture in direct contact with the skin by wicking sweat away into the next layer of fabric. This property was tested and compared in a spray test with water.
>> The results: Laboratory tests and practical assessments complement and support each other. However, despite the large number of samples and test subjects, the results contain strong subjective elements. In addition, even technically well-designed shirts are characterised by different areas of use - shown in the recommendations for "temperature" and "intensity".
Not all products are made for exactly the same purpose. We have therefore refrained from using decimal scores.
Interview with Sasa Stefanovic: "The structure of the knitted fabric makes a huge difference"
The interview was conducted by Jörg Spaniol
TOUR: As a buyer, is it possible to recognise how a shirt will behave just by looking at the label with the material specifications?
Sasa Stefanovic: This is only possible with wool. In case of doubt, a pure wool shirt will always behave similarly because the fibre properties are largely fixed. With synthetic fibres, for example, the thickness and cross-section of the yarn can be adjusted. And this changes the properties of the shirt.
TOUR: How important is the structure of the knit, for example a smooth knit like a T-shirt, compared to a roughened inside?
Stefanovic: The structure of the knitted fabric makes a huge difference: stitch width, any loops, the twisting of a yarn - all of this has a massive influence on the wearing properties. As a customer, however, you can hardly judge this in advance.
TOUR: Löffler offers many different fibre blends for functional underwear, and there are even more on the market. How do you decide on the blend?
StefanovicThis is designed for the respective area of application, i.e. a certain temperature and intensity. Internally, it also has to be suitable for production, i.e. sewing, cutting and so on. Apart from that, it is the result of long development and many wear tests. We do this both internally and with athletes we support.
TOUR: Do they at least agree in the end?
StefanovicWhen it comes to comfort, everyone is different. And just as brand A jeans always fit one person but brand B suits another, professionals also prefer very different materials for functional underwear. Even if the cut and feel are the same, the choice depends heavily on personal preferences.
Long-sleeved vests in the test: the models and results in detail
Castelli Flanders Warm
- Price: 75 Euro >> available from Rose
- Country of manufacture: Moldova
- Sizes (men/women): XS-XXL / XS-XL
- Material/composition100% polyester
- Recommended temperature2 to 8 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to medium
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 3 out of 8 points
- Fit: 5 out of 8 points
- Climate: 3 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: satisfactory
Conclusion: Castelli is normally a brand that shines with high functionality. In view of these expectations, the "Flanders Warm" comes off rather modestly. Although the pure polyester material dries quickly, the felted inside is very slow to absorb sweat. It remains on the skin and quickly becomes cold and wet. We therefore see the area of use in the less sweat-inducing speed range. As is typical for Castelli, the fit is orientated towards slim athletes, but the long-sleeved vest is not very flexible and "figure-tolerant" due to the only transversely elasticated material. In terms of feel, several test subjects criticised the inelastic, scratchy seams. However, the shirt was obviously tailor-made for one tester: She made it her favourite.
Craft Active Extreme X CN LS
- Price: 60 Euro >> available from Rose
- Country of manufactureLithuania
- Sizes (men/women): S-XXL / XS-XXL
- Material/composition100% polyester (PES, partly recycled)
- Recommended temperature3 to 10 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: medium to high
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 6 out of 8 points
- Fit: 6 from 8 points
- Climate: 5 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
Conclusion: Football veteran Franz Beckenbauer coined the unforgotten phrase "We call it a classic" about the Germany-England duel. The Craft shirt, which has remained almost unchanged for years, is just such a classic. The current version contains a lot of recycled polyester and a little mesh knit, but overall it retains its tried and tested function. During training, the lightweight shirt absorbs noticeable moisture, making it slightly cooler. The manufacturer's recommendation is for use during more intensive exercise and in cool, but not freezing temperatures, which also corresponds to the experience of our test subjects. The pure polyester shirt without elastane doesn't fit quite as tightly as others, but it dries quickly. Away from exertion, the wearing comfort can't quite compete with the skin flatterers in the test.
Falke long-sleeved shirt Warm
- Price: 55 Euro >> available at Bergfreunde
- Country of manufacture: Turkey
- Sizes (men/women): S-XXL / XS-XL
- Material/composition69 % polyamide (PA), 26 % PES, 5 % elastane
- Recommended temperature: 2 to 9 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: medium to high
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 5 out of 8 points
- Fit: 6 from 8 points
- Climate: 7 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
Conclusion: If you only look at the fibre blend and the drying times of the Falke shirt, you will totally underestimate it: It "wets" longer than other synthetic fibre models. The fact that it is nevertheless a favourite of the test team is due to its good sweat wicking and its very close fit - it is even difficult to put on when the skin is damp. It misses out on the full fit score due to the slightly too wide neck area and a front length that rolls up slightly in tights. The manufacturer advertises it for mild to cold conditions and high training intensity. This largely corresponds to our findings. When it comes to temperature, we correct the recommendation slightly in the direction of warmth. Very sporty overall, but not a favourite for many hours of basic training.
Gore Base Layer Thermo Long Sleeve Shirt
- Price: 65 Euro >> available at Alltricks
- Country of manufacture: Turkey
- Sizes (men/women): S-XXL / 34-42
- Material/composition92 % polypropylene (PP), 8 % elastane
- Recommended temperature: 2 to 9 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to high
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 6 out of 8 points
- Fit: 7 out of 8 points
- Climate: 7 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: very good
Conclusion: Gore uses quick-drying material more consistently than any of its competitors. The fact that the polypropylene, which has a rough structure on the inside, further accelerates the transport of perspiration enhances the very dry feeling on the skin in comparison. The material scores particularly well under rainwear, which would otherwise cause moisture to build up. We would qualify the manufacturer's recommendation for high-intensity training in comparison to more cooling models, but the Gore shirt also works as a first layer on longer laps. Points of criticism were the somewhat "plastic-like" feel and cut details such as the somewhat low T-shirt collar. In addition, it takes a while to get the sleeves adjusted so that they no longer crease.
Gripgrab Expert 2 Thermal Seamless
- Price: 63 Euro >> available at Wiggle
- Country of manufactureChina
- Sizes (men/women)XS-XXL (3 sizes, unisex)
- Material/composition56 % PP, 40 % PA, 4 % elastane, antibacterial treatment
- Recommended temperature: -2 to 5 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to medium
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 6 out of 8 points
- Fit: 7 out of 8 points
- Climate: 4 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
Conclusion: The good news first: no other shirt has received as much praise for its fit as this one. It fits well without cutting in anywhere and has the right proportions for sportsmen's and women's bodies, including upward tolerance. Unwashed, it smells a little chemically, which could be due to the controversial antibacterial finish. After several washes, this odour largely dissipated. The assessments of the body climate gathered in practice are also somewhat less euphoric: despite the inner and outer knit structures and the high proportion of quick-drying polypropylene, the relatively thick GripGrab shirt soaks up moisture close to the skin and can feel clammy. It received little praise for more intensive continuous use.
Icebreaker Zone Knit 200
- Price: 126 Euro >> available at Bergzeit
- Country of manufactureChina
- Sizes (men/women): S-XXL / XS-XL
- Material/composition100 % merino wool
- Recommended temperature: -3 to 2 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to medium
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 5 out of 8 points
- Fit: 3 out of 8 points
- Climate: 5 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: satisfactory
Conclusion: The expensive merino shirt combines the advantages and disadvantages of wool: the Icebreaker model hardly dries any faster than a cotton T-shirt, but feels significantly warmer when damp. Because merino wool cannot be knitted as cleverly as some synthetic fibres, this moist warmth can be felt close to the skin. We would therefore not recommend it for heavy sweating and high intensities. The feel of merino wool is polarising. One otherwise insensitive tester found the mesh knit on the back to be scratchy. Others praised the feel of the dry shirt - wool as a functional fibre remains a matter of feel. The cut of the (very large) Icebreaker shirt is sporty, but not bike-specific and is more casual than close-fitting, especially on the stomach and hips.
Löffler Transtex Hybrid
- Price: 80 Euro
- Country of manufactureAustria
- Sizes (men/women): 46-60 / 32-46
- Material/composition36% PP, 29% Lyocell, 17% PA, 15% cotton, 3% elastane
- Recommended temperature1 to 8 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to high
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 6 out of 8 points
- Fit: 5 out of 8 points
- Climate: 6 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
ConclusionThe Austrian company Löffler is a pioneer in functional underwear and processes various types of fibre in its own knitting mill. In the "Transtex Hybrid", the proportion of Lyocell, a fibre obtained from wood, and cotton is particularly striking. The fibres are processed on two surfaces, and the inside and outside of the shirt are clearly different. According to the testers, this structure wicks moisture away from the skin well, even if the shirt feels clammy on the outside. The cut is slim and close-fitting, but not compressive. The sleeves should be longer for a sporty riding position - it's not a bike-specific cut. The manufacturer recommends it for medium to high activity levels. A specification that largely matches our experience and measurements.
Odlo Natural 100 % Merino Warm
- Price: 85 Euro >> available from Odlo
- Country of manufactureRomania
- Sizes (men/women): S-XXL / XS-XL
- Material/composition100 % merino wool
- Recommended temperature: -2 to 2 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to medium
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 7 out of 8 points
- Fit: 4 out of 8 points
- Climate: 5 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
Conclusion: Odlo's pure merino shirt is the clear winner in the skin flatterer category - at least in moderate use. "Almost silky surface" and "cotton feel" are written in the test sheets. Even the merino competitors Icebreaker and Sportful do not achieve such skin-sympathising values. In the drying measurement, the shirt is in the midfield, at a similar level to Falke, GripGrab or Löffler. Nevertheless, it develops the typical warm and humid greenhouse climate during training. The manufacturer has quite rightly developed it for moderate exertion. The cut is also more civilian, like a long-sleeved T-shirt with slim sleeves. It can wrinkle at the shoulders and stomach under tight jerseys. A shirt for cool basic units.
Sportful Merino Layer Tee
- Price: 110 Euro
- Country of manufactureCroatia
- Sizes (men/women): XS-XXXL / XXS-XXL
- Material/composition75% wool, 18% polyamide (PA), 7% elastane
- Recommended temperature-1 to 7 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to medium
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 4 out of 8 points
- Fit: 6 out of 8 points
- Climate: 5 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
Conclusion: Three quarters wool, plus some polyamide to increase robustness and elastane for a closer fit: Sportful has created good conditions for success with the mix of its merino shirt. The fact that it still only just managed a "good" is due to weaknesses in each individual area. Several, but not all test subjects found the shirt scratchy - even merino wool has different fibre qualities. The majority praised the fit of the no-frills and sufficiently elasticated shirt, but a better rating was not possible due to the short length, which only works reliably with bib shorts (those who only wear these should have no problems). Although the shirt dries very quickly overall, the majority of testers criticised the insufficient sweat wicking.
Uyn Ambityon Underwear Shirt
- Price: 79 Euro
- Country of manufactureItaly
- Sizes (men/women)S/M-XXL / XS-L/XL (3 sizes each)
- Material/composition86% PA, 12% PP, 2% elastane, antibacterial
- Recommended temperature: -5 to 0 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: low to medium
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 6 out of 8 points
- Fit: 7 out of 8 points
- Climate: 7 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: very good
Conclusion: The Italian high-tech knitters behind UYN show off their technical capabilities: various surface structures, changing colours and thicknesses ... You don't notice much of these subtleties on the road, but the bottom line is that this shirt is the recommendation for consistent cycling in the cold. The two-ply knitted fabric transfers moisture to the outer layers, which is why it still feels good on the skin despite its poor drying behaviour. The rather tight, body-hugging fit supports this function. Two points of criticism concern the cut of the shirt, which was made for winter sports: The long front made from the relatively thick material rolls up bulging in tights. And a slightly higher collar would be appropriate for such a warm shirt.
Van Rysel Winter Race
- Price: 28 Euro >> available at Decathlon
- Country of manufactureRomania
- Sizes (men/women)S-XXL
- Material/composition97 % PA, 3 % elastane
- Recommended temperature3 to 10 degrees
- Recommended training intensity: medium to high
TOUR rating
- Haptics: 6 out of 8 points
- Fit: 7 out of 8 points
- Climate: 4 out of 8 points
>> Results in the overall judgement: good
Conclusion: Overtaken on the right: For less than half the average price in the test field, discounter Decathlon offers a competitive cycling vest with its own brand Van Rysel. Those who were able to try it out during more intensive training and in mild weather were very impressed, even without looking at the price tag. Once you have smoothed out the slim and very elasticated pellet, the bike-specific cut with pronounced long sleeves and body-hugging shoulders as well as a pleasantly high collar is impressive. In terms of body climate, however, the Van Rysel is made more for the transitional seasons than for winter. It distributes perspiration well, but leaves a slightly cooling rather than significantly warming effect - which is in line with the manufacturer's information on the area of use.
