Workshop - the optimum winter bike

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 · 13.12.2005

Workshop - the optimum winter bikePhoto: Georg Grieshaber
There is no such thing as bad weather - only a bike that is unsuitable for winter training. TOUR gives tips for a winter racer that is as functional as it is stylish.

If you want to cycle fast in spring, there's no getting round winter training. Although there are certainly alternatives to training on the road, it makes sense to get your legs spinning occasionally. Professional cyclists start preparing for the season in November, and by no means every professional cyclist spends the entire winter in the warm and dry south. Family and friends, familiar surroundings instead of barren hotel isolation - powerful arguments for exposing yourself to the local weather.

Permanently mounted mudguards are an absolute must on a winterised bike. Unlike clip-on mudguards, they not only keep your bum dry, but also your shoes and legs. Additional trick: Cut a splash flap from a worn tyre to extend the front mudguard almost to the road surface. The width of the tyre piece is better suited to road bike mudguards than commercially available flaps designed for city bikes. For training in a group, it is advisable to extend the rear mudguard as far as the road so that the rider behind is spared the fountain of mud from the rear tyre.

As winter training in our part of the world often takes place at dusk, if not in the dark, seeing and being seen is a vital need for cyclists. The TOUR winter bike therefore has additional lighting.

Degree of difficulty: for talented hobby mechanics

You will need:

  • Tool: Hexagon socket, open-end spanner, saw, side cutters, bolt cutters, screwdriver, cable ties, copper wire, penetrating oil, spray and hard wax.

The TOUR winter bike in detail

1. make sure that the mudguards of your choice fit the fork and rear triangle of your bike as well as possible. The mudguard must fit snugly, otherwise you will give away tyre clearance. Unscrew the brake and place the angled retaining plate under the brake bolt on the front of the fork.

- Frame: Marschall "Alamo", brushed stainless steel; fork for longer wheelbase, with greater tyre clearance and mudguard eyelets. All add-on parts fitted with stainless steel bolts.

- Lighting systemShimano DH-3N71 hub dynamo with 6 volts/3 watts, runs with little resistance and almost silently. When switched off, the bearing run is indistinguishable from a normal high-quality hub. Also available with 2.4 watts, in which case only the front light needs to be wired. A battery LED light should then be fitted to the rear of the bike to ensure a safe journey.

- Headlights: "Lumotec oval sensoplus" from Busch&Müller; with automatic switch-on and LED parking light.

- Rear light: LED light "Seculite plus", also with automatic parking light, wired with two wires to prevent faults.

- Handlebar/stem: Syntace VRO. Ideal for choosing a moderate riding position for winter training and gradually approaching the competition position again in spring.

- Tyre protectors: SKS, plastic, front model "Bluemels" - but the one for the rear wheel, because it covers more of the tyre circumference than the actual front mudguard. Fits well into the fork with its round contour. At the rear, the "Chromoplastics" model with a matching square shape.

- Tyres: Continental "Grand Prix 4000". Folding tyre, 25 mm wide, with reflective stripes on the side.

- Pedals: Shimano PD-A520 system pedal. Suitable for racing and MTB shoes (recommended in winter). Very dirt-resistant. With additional SM-PD59 reflector set for more passive safety.

- Bottle holder: Elite "Ciussi". But stays empty in the cold - then the drink comes warmed up from the hydration pack under the jacket.

The customised winter bike - tips and tricks

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