Tubeless step by step: Changing tyres on a gravel bike

At some point, a tyre's best days are behind it. Either a major defect heralds the end of its life from one moment to the next, or kilometre after kilometre has worn away the tread bit by bit. Sometimes you also notice that it's time for a new tyre if you have constant punctures.

I've cursed about many a tyre in my life. Inwardly. The worst was once a racing bike tyre that I couldn't fit with the best will in the world and using all my tricks. In the end, I did manage it. How? It was the height of summer and the sun was beating down on my balcony. I thought "heat makes tyres supple" and indeed. I was able to fit the tyres that had heated up in the sun. But I soon swapped them again, because on every tour I was worried "What if I have a flat tyre and need to put an inner tube in, but I can't get the tyre off?

This is what you need to change your tyres. Initial situation: The tyres are mounted tubeless and the new tyres are to be mounted again without inner tubes

• Your new tyres
• Minitool or Allen key to remove the wheels
• Rim tape- if your wheels need rim tape and your old rim tape is damaged
• Tyre lever
• Sealing milk
• Easy Fit tyre fitting fluid
• Air pump with booster / Compressor

Step 1: Deflate and remove the old tyre

Let's start with the basics, because anyone looking at a Presta valve for the first time will be wondering: "How do I get the air out?"

1. let the air out of the tyre

To get the tyre off the rim, you must first let the air out. If available, unscrew the valve cover.

Then unscrew the valve. To do this, turn the small knurled nut on the "tip" of the valve.

Valve open? Then press the so-called plunger into the valve. You will then hear and feel the air flowing out of the tyre through the valve.

2. press the tyre into the centre of the rim

Tyres usually sit firmly in the rim. This is how it should be, because with tubeless setups in particular, the tyre should remain in position even if it loses air. Only then is it possible to stuff a tubeless patch into the hole in the tyre and then build up the right tyre pressure again with a mini pump. But we can't remove the tyre in this position. The tyre bead must be pressed into the centre of the rim - regardless of whether you are riding tubeless or with an inner tube, this makes it easier.

To do this, I grip the tyre with both hands, place my thumbs close together and close to the rim on the tyre. Then I build up pressure. At some point, the tyre slips into the centre. I then work my hands all the way round so that one side of the tyre sits completely in the middle of the rim.

3. lever the tyre off the rim

Now comes the part where you need tyre levers. It's best to use two. Place the first tyre lever between the tyre bead and the rim flange, lift the bead outwards over the rim edge and hook the lever into a spoke. Then place the second tyre lever a few centimetres next to it and work your way along the rim. At some point, the tyre will run as if by itself. With tubeless tyres, this can take a little more force because the bead is tighter. A video can help you to better understand and reproduce the tyre lever application.

If you have one side out, you can remove the tyre completely from the rim. If you are riding with an inner tube, pull the tube out now and be careful not to bend the valve.

By the way: I usually only use one tyre lever.

Step 2: Clean up

Old sealant can be wiped out of the rim with an old cloth. Check that your rim tape, if your wheels need rim tape, is still good and undamaged. You can leave the old tyres to dry if they are destined for the rubbish bin. So that the old tyres can be recycled in the best possible way, you can send them to the Tyre recycling from Schwalbe tyres. Find a recycling partner and hand in your tyres there.

If the tyres are still good and you want to fit them again at some point, wipe out the old sealant here too. But be careful: there may be thorns or other sharp objects in the tyres. I've already slashed my thumb on one. Better wear gloves.

Step 3: New tyre on the rim

1. first page on

Before you fit the new tyre, it is worth taking a quick look at the direction of travel. Most tyres have an arrow marking on the sidewall. On a gravel bike, the arrow points forwards when viewed from the drive side. The front and rear wheels can run in different directions, so check both briefly.

Start by placing one side of the tyre on the rim. This can usually be done completely without tools: press the tyre bead into the rim with your hands and work all the way round. No effort necessary.

2. pure sealing milk

In the tubeless setup, the sealant is now added before you fit the second side of the tyre. Exception: You fill the sealant into the tyre via the valve - that's how I do it.

Fill the milk directly through the open side of the tyre. You can also let the tyre pop into the rim first and fill in the sealant through the valve after step 4. I prefer to fill through the valve because then I already know that the tyre is in the rim.

3. second page on top

This is the side where it usually pinches. Start opposite the valve and work your way towards the valve with both hands at the same time. The last few centimetres at the valve are often the hardest - this is the moment when many people tend to use force. Better: Press the tyre completely into the centre of the rim again (as described in step 1) so that you have as much play as possible everywhere. Then finish the last section with the Tyre lever lever over the edge of the rim - be careful not to damage the bead.

Check again that the bead sits evenly in the rim all round and is not jammed anywhere.

Step 4: Pump until plop

Now comes the moment that it all comes down to - and which sometimes requires a little patience.

1. open valve

Unscrew the valve core or open the valve so that air can flow in as quickly as possible. When inflating without the insert, more air goes in at once, which helps the tyre to pop into the correct position.

2. pumps

A normal floor pump is sometimes not fast enough for tubeless setups - the tyre needs a short, powerful blast of air to press the bead against the rim flange on both sides at the same time. If you have a Tubeless air pump (booster), use it. It works like a compressor in miniature: first fill the chamber, then blow into the tyre in one go.

If you don't have a booster, try the floor pump first. Pump quickly and with pressure. Soapy water or Schwalbe Easy Fit mounting fluid can help.

3. the plop

When the bead engages on one side, you will hear a distinct popping sound. Sometimes both sides pop almost simultaneously, sometimes one after the other. After the second pop, the tyre is seated. Check that the bead is evenly positioned all round the rim flange - there is often a thin line printed on the sidewall to help you.

4. build up pressure and distribute sealing milk

If you have unscrewed the valve core, the air will hiss out of the tyre as soon as you loosen the pump. However, the tyre should remain in its position in the rim. Should you unscrew the Sealing milk through the valve, now is the right time.

Screw the valve core back in and inflate the tyre, paying attention to the maximum pressure that the rim and tyre can withstand. Swivel the wheel back and forth to distribute the sealant in the tyre and seal any small pores in the bead area. Now all you have to do is adjust the pressure to your desired range and refit the wheels to your bike.

Common problems and solutions

Problem 1: The tyre does not go onto the rim

Some tyre/rim combinations have tight tolerances - this is intentional, but causes frustration when fitting. A few things can help:

Press the bead of the already mounted side completely into the centre of the rim before you start on the difficult spot - this gives you a little more room to manoeuvre. Also work the tyre towards the area that still needs to be fitted: The more tyre bead you have collected there, the easier the last section will be.

Is nothing working? Heat makes rubber more supple. Put the tyre in the sun for a short time before fitting - in my case, that was exactly the millimetre that was missing.

Problem 2: The tyre does not pop in

If you pump and pump but nothing happens, it is usually because the air is not getting into the tyre fast enough - or the air is simply flowing past the bead.

Have you screwed in the valve core? Take it out. Without the core, the air can flow in much faster and press the bead better against the rim flange. If this does not help, a tubeless booster is the method of choice: fill the chamber, then blow into the tyre with one stroke. Tubeless mounting fluid applied to the bead can also help the tyre to slide into the correct position more easily.

If none of this helps, there is one last trick: pull in an inner tube and inflate the tyre until it sits in the rim. Then remove one side again (but be careful that the second side of the tyre remains seated), remove the inner tube, insert the tubeless valve - and try again. Now one side of the tyre is already properly seated in the rim and only the second side needs to pop in. This has always worked for me so far.

Problem 3: The air does not hold

A few bubbles of sealing milk on the tyre wall when first inflating are normal - the milk is working. However, if the tyre becomes soft again within a few minutes, something is wrong. You should check these areas in turn:

• Valve: Leaking or not screwed in properly - this is the most common cause. Simple test: put spit or soapy water on the valve and see if it bubbles.
• Bead: If the tyre bead is not properly engaged somewhere, the air will escape from the rim flange. Check that the bead is evenly seated all round the tyre.
• Rim tape and tubeless valve: If you have re-glued the rim tape or re-installed the tubeless valve, these areas may also be leaking. In this case, you must remove the tyre again and check both.

And another tip for later: sealing milk dries out over time. After three to six months, it is worth replacing the milk - even if the tyre is not currently causing any problems.