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Tips from readers for readers

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· 24.02.2006

Tips from readers for readers

The best craft tips and tricks from our readers to keep boredom at bay on long winter evenings.

The best craft tips and tricks from our readers to keep boredom at bay on long winter evenings.

Saving in winter
Martin Bressler, Cologne

For basic training on flat roads in winter, you don't really need gears - and what's not there won't be stressed by dirt and wet conditions. After removing all shifting components, you have to convert the cassette for the single-speed bike - the prerequisite for this is horizontal or sliding dropouts so that the chain can then be tensioned.

As normal sprockets would wear out rapidly when used for "singlespeed" use, you can use sprockets (for wide eight-speed or hub gear chains) such as those available for backpedal and Sachs three-speed hubs with 13 to 22 teeth. They fit on the sprocket body if you file off a few tenths of a millimetre from each of the three round lugs. However, you should only combine such a sprocket with freewheel bodies made of steel. The steel lugs would dig into softer aluminium bodies too much.

As normal sprockets would wear out rapidly when used for "singlespeed" use, you can use sprockets (for wide eight-speed or hub gear chains) such as those available for backpedal and Sachs three-speed hubs with 13 to 22 teeth. They fit on the sprocket body if you file off a few tenths of a millimetre from each of the three round lugs. However, you should only combine such a sprocket with freewheel bodies made of steel. The steel lugs would dig into softer aluminium bodies too much.

The spacer rings from an old or temporarily suspended sprocket set, which are slid onto the sprocket body in front of and behind the individual winter sprocket, are used to set the chain line as straight as possible to the selected front chainring.

The sprocket "package", which may need to be arranged with additional spacer rings to prevent play, is secured as usual with the end ring. Install the wheel with the hub axle at the very front in the dropouts. Shorten an eight-speed chain: It should be possible to lift it about two centimetres in the middle between the sprocket and chainring. The chain tension is adjusted using the adjustment screws
in the dropouts.

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Against the crack
Kyra Elsässer-Büssing, Dülmen

If the system wheels crack, penetrating oil can help in the right places. Dribble oil into the hub shell at the inserted half-moons and at the contact points of the spokes with the hub shell. Always allow the lubricant to be well absorbed.

If the system wheels crack, penetrating oil can help in the right places. Dribble oil into the hub shell at the inserted half-moons and at the contact points of the spokes with the hub shell. Always allow the lubricant to be well absorbed.

The crossing points of the spokes can also cause the noise, as they move and rub against each other with every wheel rotation - a drop of oil calms them down.

Often the fitting pieces in the rim that hold the spoke nipples creak. Drip a little oil from the spoke side into each hole or pull off the rim tape to get to the contact points. Wipe off any excess oil.

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Create order
Manfred Moll, Kastellaun

Not that the manufacturers of mineral tablet tubes would have thought of this additional benefit - but the empty plastic tubes are perfect for storing sprockets. Cut to size, thread on the sprocket, close with a second lid - done.

Not that the manufacturers of mineral tablet tubes would have thought of this additional benefit - but the empty plastic tubes are perfect for storing sprockets. Cut to size, thread on the sprocket, close with a second lid - done.

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Aligning the brakes
Martin Adis, Hennef-Hanfmühle

To align the pads of older Shimano brakes exactly parallel to the rim flanks, you can use conical discs like those fitted to V-brakes on mountain bikes - as long as you don't mind the look. A friendly bike dealer may let you have such cone discs from his scrap box free of charge.

To align the pads of older Shimano brakes exactly parallel to the rim flanks, you can use conical discs like those fitted to V-brakes on mountain bikes - as long as you don't mind the look. A friendly bike dealer may let you have such cone discs from his scrap box free of charge.

You will also need longer (quality) screws to secure the brake pads. Release the brake cable so that the brake opens further. Fit the narrower pair on the inside, between the brake pad and brake arm, and the thicker pair on the outside. If the turret bothers you, you will need to get more narrow conical discs.

Tighten and reattach the brake cable and align the pads precisely using the conical discs. Check the height so that the pads hit the brake track. Then tighten the brake pad bolts to the torque specified by the manufacturer (5 to 7 Newton metres).

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Loosen bottom bracket
Jiri Satlukal, Beilstein

Stuck bottom brackets are a challenge: you need a lot of force to loosen them and the contact surfaces for tools are small. That's why it's usually better to do this in pairs. With the trick described here, you can also do it alone - provided the tool used fits precisely.

Stuck bottom brackets are a challenge: you need a lot of force to loosen them and the contact surfaces for tools are small. That's why it's usually better to do this in pairs. With the trick described here, you can also do it alone - provided the tool used fits precisely.

Position the tool and secure with the screw clamp. Place hardwood between the clamp and the shaft or tool. Caution: Only clamp the tool on the side to be released and not the shaft, otherwise the force of the clamp will be misdirected. Extend the tool using a tube as a lever.

Increase the force on the tool until the screw connection loosens slightly. Do not continue turning immediately - you must first loosen the clamp slightly. Proceed step by step until the shell turns easily. Proceed in the same way on the other side of the bearing.

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Adjusting the cone bearing
Günter Wagner, Bramfeld

The play in conical hub bearings is reduced when they are clamped with the quick release - the bearing runs more slowly, which you often do not notice. This can be remedied with an auxiliary construction with which you can check the interaction of bearing play and quick release on the removed wheel.

The play in conical hub bearings is reduced when they are clamped with the quick release - the bearing runs more slowly, which you often do not notice. This can be remedied with an auxiliary construction with which you can check the interaction of bearing play and quick release on the removed wheel.

You will need two nuts or thick spacer discs that can be slid over the stub axles and protrude slightly. Fit the quick release with the preload as you would with the wheel installed. With the quick release open, adjust the bearing play.

Close the quick release and turn the axle to check the bearing adjustment. If it runs a little stiffly or roughly, open the quick release and adjust the hub with a little play. Check the setting, remove the nuts and fit the wheel.

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Editing of the texts: Dirk Zedler, Photos: Daniel Simon

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