More and more frames are being designed for internally routed cables. This looks nice, but sometimes makes replacing the cables a challenge.
Level of difficulty for talented hobby mechanics
Tool
- Bowden cable pliers
- Side cutter
- Hexagon socket
Auxiliary materials
- Silicone oil spray
- Grease
- tape
- Rigid wire
- Plastic tubes
- outer sheaths
- connecting pieces
- Bowden cables
TIPS
- Length: Internally routed cables can cause a lot of trouble if the friction is too high. Pay attention to the exact length: the radii must be round, but must not make any unnecessary bends. Fold the handlebars all the way in to check that the cables underneath the handlebars do not interfere with each other.
- Tunnel tricks: If there is no old cable in the frame, run a new inner cable from hole to hole on the outside of the frame. Mark the distance on the inner cable; insert the cable up to the mark and try to feed the tip through the exit hole. Use a magnet or catch the cable with the aid of a catch sling.
- Negative pressure: Have all attempts to insert a new train failed? Try the vacuum method: seal all openings in the frame except the draught openings; thread a thin thread inside and try to suck the thread in at the outlet opening using a hoover. This may work.
- Emergency repair: If the outer casing is stuck inside the frame and cannot be removed, then it is worth at least partially replacing it. Shorten the protruding pieces of the outer casing and attach new pieces using connecting sleeves (e.g. from Shimano). Replace the inner cable.
The detailed workshop instructions for replacing internally routed cables can be found in the PDF download below.
Downloads:
download
