Noises on the wheel

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 · 28.07.2004

Noises on the wheel
Cycling in lonely nature could be so beautiful - if the bike didn't crack so annoyingly. Switch it off! Noise on a bike is usually caused by tiny movements between two or more parts. This is nothing new, but since frames made of large-volume and thin-walled tubes provide ample resonance space, annoying noises penetrate the ear clearly audible and take the good-mood centre under fire.

Noise on a bike is usually caused by tiny movements between two or more parts. This is nothing new, but since frames made of large-volume and thin-walled tubes provide ample resonance space, annoying noises penetrate clearly audible into the ear and take the good-mood centre under fire.

It is not so easy to do something about the common creak, because the source of the nerve pain bubbles up in secret. Rarely does a genuine material defect make noise. Almost all parts of the bike can be the cause of these tiny movements: frame, saddle, seat post, handlebars, stem, cranks, pedals. What they all have in common is that they are constantly minimally deformed by pedalling forces, traction on the handlebars and bumps on the road. Even a slight shift of weight in the saddle can cause the noise - or silence it. What makes it even more difficult to find the cause is that the sound spreads over the entire frame and the crack does not necessarily originate where you think you hear it. You should therefore undertake a systematic search on a quiet side road.

Search principle: Pedal with varying intensity and let the bike roll without power for short distances in between. Apply and release the pressure on the different areas of the bike, such as the saddle and pedals, one after the other, gradually eliminating one source of noise after the other. Also adjust the handlebars and stem when stationary.

Once you have located the noise in the bottom bracket area, it's time to look for the details. Work your way from the outside to the inside. The first sensible measure seems relatively trivial: Mist the front derailleur area, cranks, chainrings and bottom bracket shell with spray wax. Once the wax has crept into all the cracks and dried, check all the screw connections. Tighten the bolts with a torque spanner. If it continues to crack, you need to start dismantling and investigate further inside.

On the sound track - what sounds can mean

  • Rattling: Brake lever is not pulled back hard enough by the brake. Tool rattles in the saddlebag.
  • Knocking: Steering bearing loose
  • Cracking: Bottom bracket, cranks, front derailleur on the frame, pedal axle or dropout require grease and the correct screw tightening torque; quick release is not tight
  • Creaking: Pedal plate needs grease or is worn, saddle frame creaks in the ceiling
  • Scratching: Chain grinds on the derailleur
  • Squeaking: Chain or derailleur pulleys run dry

Degree of difficulty: for experienced screwdrivers

You will need:

  • Tool: Assembly grease, wax, bottom bracket tool, pin spanner and hexagon socket, torque spanner

Tips and tricks against the crack

 1 Dismantle the pedals. Both pedals are unscrewed against the pedalling direction - the right pedal counter-clockwise, the left pedal clockwise. Use a long open-end spanner or a tool that is slightly offset so that your hands do not get into the danger zone of the chainring teeth. Hold the crank with your other hand, for example by gripping the crank arm and chain stay together. Clean the threads of the crank and pedal axle and grease both with a special assembly grease. The solids it contains prevent corrosion - the pedals can be easily removed even years later. Take the pedal in your hand and move it in different directions towards the pedal axle. If the pedal tilts on the axle or can be moved in the direction of the axle, it must be dismantled and at least lubricated with grease. If necessary, only new bearings will help.

Please also refer to our
Workshop tipCracking noises on the wheelCracking noises on the wheel

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