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Emergency repairs

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 · 05.07.2010

Emergency repairsPhoto: Dirk Zedler
Apart from flat tyres, defects on modern road bikes are rather rare. However, you should still have a few tricks and clever spare parts that you can make yourself in stock and in your saddlebag just in case.

Level of difficulty

Tool4, 5, 6, 8 mm hexagon socket as required, slotted screwdriver and chain riveting tool or mini-tool, specific centring spanner if necessary, fitting lever and pump

Auxiliary materials: repair kit, chain lock link, valve extension, luster clamp, piece of tyre, rag, small change

TIPS

- After a breakdown, you should continue cycling with caution. Provisional repairs, e.g. riveting a chain again, can restrict the optimum function of the bike.

- Components that have been bent after a crash, such as replaceable derailleur hangers, must be replaced immediately as they are weakened and therefore at risk of breaking.

- The basis for a defect-free ride is the careful initial assembly of the bike. Regular inspections carried out in a well-equipped workshop with the appropriate expertise ensure that the bike remains immune to defects.

- In principle, broken brake cables can also be joined together, as shown with the shift cables. However, you should only do this on the rear brake. If the front brake cable breaks, it is better to replace the rear brake cable with the more effective front brake!

Luster terminal | Repairing a broken shift cable

With the front derailleur, a broken cable is not so tragic, as the derailleur automatically shifts to the small blade. Riding on is no problem. However, the rear derailleur swings outwards when the tension is lost and the chain runs on the hardest gear. On flat to undulating terrain, it may be sufficient to swivel the rear derailleur inwards as far as possible using the limit stop screw to shift to a slightly lower gear.

Flaps | Making rigid chain links flexible

If the rear derailleur jumps when pedalling or the chain suddenly dances between the sprockets, this indicates a stiff chain link. If this phenomenon occurs after approximately every second turn of the crank, this is an even clearer indication. Get off the bike and slowly turn the crank backwards. The stiff link is noticeable by jerking on the rear derailleur and runs out slightly bent at the chain guide roller.

Riveting tool and locking link | Re-lock broken chains

If the chain breaks or a rivet comes undone, you must close the chain again. Traditional makeshift solutions using a stone and nail etc. fail with modern ten and eleven-speed chains. The link strands are too delicate and the space between the sprockets is too small for anything to protrude from the chain.

Tyre section | Repair damage to the carcass

Occasionally, the tyre carcass is cut by stones or shards or crushed by a violent puncture. If you simply pull in a new inner tube, it pushes through the opening, forms a blister and bursts. A piece of an old tyre that you place under the damaged area will help here.

Centre key

If a spoke is broken on the sprocket side, it cannot be removed; instead, wrap it carefully around the neighbouring spokes. Tighten the neighbouring spokes on the same side so that the rim at least does not rub against the frame and the open brake. Use the brake pads as a visual centring aid: When tightening the spokes, make sure that the rim moves towards the centre.

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