Cracking noises on the wheel

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 · 31.08.2004

Cracking noises on the wheelPhoto: Daniel Simon
Two months of peace and quiet on the bike - and now it's cracking again? This is not a rare occurrence, as any part can be the source of the noise. Investigate further! The experience of many readers confirms TOUR's test experience: if your bike is cracking, the noise usually comes from the bottom bracket area.

The experience of many readers confirms TOUR's test experience: when the bike cracks, the noise usually comes from the bottom bracket area. Of course - after all, there are many bolted components crowded together in a small space, which can shift against each other with microscopic movements under the influence of pedalling force and cause noise.

It therefore makes sense to start by looking for the crack on the bottom bracket, as described in TOUR 6/04. It doesn't hurt to grease the bottom bracket thread and all other connections properly, as many manufacturers are very sparing with this simplest form of noise damping at the factory. If the crack continues to be annoying after these measures, you need to check the other components of the bike that are loaded and moved by the pedalling motion.

Our tips on the seatpost are subject to a restriction if the seatpost and/or seat tube are made of carbon: In this case, no grease should be used in the area of this clamp fit! Otherwise the clamp will only hold the seatpost with extremely high tightening forces, which can permanently damage the seatpost and frame. It is better to clean the carbon seat post and/or the inside of the carbon seat tube regularly with a cloth to prevent dirt or moisture from penetrating and causing noise. All other tips on the seat post also apply to carbon models.

Once you have removed the seatpost, you should also check whether it is long enough. Its end must extend beyond the lower edge of the top tube into the seat tube, otherwise it cannot be supported on a sufficiently large surface. It will then "rock" in the seat tube, making noises and breaking the frame very likely.

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Components settle, the bolt force decreases. You should therefore check all open bolts after around 200 kilometres of riding with a torque spanner. Make it a habit to check all the bolts on your road bike every 1,500 to 2,000 kilometres; if you ride a lot on bad roads, more often.

Degree of difficulty: for talented hobby mechanics

You will need:

  • Tool: Spray oil, chain oil, assembly grease, shaft-hub adhesive, hexagon socket, torque spanner, sprocket tool

Fighting the creak - tips and tricks

1. the quick-release mechanism on the rear wheel hub occasionally develops a life of its own. The tensioner axle is exposed to constant chain tension, which can lead to noise. Dismantle the tensioner and dribble some (chain) oil into the inside. Move the tensioning lever back and forth to distribute the oil to the relevant areas. Silicone oil is not suitable for lubricating steel parts. Wipe off any excess oil before reattaching the tensioner and readjusting it. A freshly lubricated tensioner also builds up greater clamping force between the hub and frame with the same manual force.

Please also refer to our
Workshop tip Noises on the wheel

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