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Changing the impeller

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· 14.09.2005

Changing the impeller

Loading the bike into the car, stowing it in a flight case or fixing a puncture: Fitting and removing wheels is an everyday procedure, but only the professional mechanics of the racing teams can usually do it really quickly and with clean fingers. Or you can - if you follow the TOUR tips

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Loading the bike into the car, stowing it in a flight case or fixing a puncture: Fitting and removing wheels is an everyday procedure, but only the professional mechanics of the racing teams can usually do it really quickly and with clean fingers. Or you can - if you follow the TOUR tips

Degree of difficulty: feasible for everyone

Tip 1: Practise works wonders - play through the wheel change without having to.

Tip 2: The term "quick release" says it all: they must clamp securely and be aligned so that you can access them quickly.

Tip 1: Practise works wonders - play through the wheel change without having to.

Tip 2: The term "quick release" says it all: they must clamp securely and be aligned so that you can access them quickly.

Tip 3: Changing a wheel always means testing the brakes before continuing your journey! Do not forget to close the brake release mechanism.

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1. open the brake. Campagnolo uses the small bolt in the Ergopower shifting brake lever for this purpose. Pull the brake lever slightly and push the pin to the other side, i.e. from the inside to the outside.

1. open the brake. Campagnolo uses the small bolt in the Ergopower shifting brake lever for this purpose. Pull the brake lever slightly and push the pin to the other side, i.e. from the inside to the outside.

2 Shimano riders turn the release lever directly on the brake upwards so that the brake pads let the tyre through.

3. to open the quick-release lever, pull the lever while resting your hand on a fixed part of the wheel with your thumb.

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Front wheel

1. on the front wheel, you then need to loosen the nut on the other side a few turns so that the quick-release can slide past the fork's safety catches.

1. on the front wheel, you then need to loosen the nut on the other side a few turns so that the quick-release can slide past the fork's safety catches.

2. stand in front of the bike for installation, hold it slightly up by the fork and place the dropouts of the fork on the axle of the front wheel hub. The quick-release lever is on the right. Tighten the nut again until the lever builds up significant resistance when closing and check that the wheel is centred between the fork legs. Close the brake release lever.

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Rear wheel - dropouts open downwards or forwards/downwards

1. before you open the quick release, shift the chain to the smallest sprocket and the small chainring - this way the link chain will interfere least with the wheel change. By the way, racing cyclists do this when coasting, which saves time!

1. before you open the quick release, shift the chain to the smallest sprocket and the small chainring - this way the link chain will interfere least with the wheel change. By the way, racing cyclists do this when coasting, which saves time!

2. open the quick release. Hold the frame by the seat post or at the top of the seat stays and lift the rear wheel up. Give the wheel a gentle forward kick from above. The wheel pops out of the dropouts and can be unthreaded from the chain.

3. to fit the rear wheel, stand behind the side of the bike and grasp the left seat stay. Lift the frame high enough so that you can thread in the rear wheel from behind. Bring the frame and wheel together so that the chain comes to rest on the smallest sprocket.

4. grasp the rear derailleur at the front of the parallelogram and press on the cage of the rear derailleur with your thumb so that it releases the space for the sprocket set - the axle slides into the dropouts. Continue to hold the frame firmly and pull the wheel all the way into the axle mounts. Check that the rim is centred between the rear stays and close the quick release and brake release lever.

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Rear wheel - dropouts open to the rear

1. if the dropouts are open at the rear, the best way to change the wheel is to hang the bike on an assembly stand. On the road, it is helpful to lean the saddle of the bike against a fence or wall. Shift the chain to the smallest sprocket, open the brake and quick release. Hold the rear of the frame firmly and pull the wheel backwards out of the dropouts to guide the axle forwards and down past the rear derailleur.

1. if the dropouts are open at the rear, the best way to change the wheel is to hang the bike on an assembly stand. On the road, it is helpful to lean the saddle of the bike against a fence or wall. Shift the chain to the smallest sprocket, open the brake and quick release. Hold the rear of the frame firmly and pull the wheel backwards out of the dropouts to guide the axle forwards and down past the rear derailleur.

2 If you cannot do this in one go, place the wheel on the ground and grasp the front derailleur by the parallelogram. Press the guide roller cage down with your thumb. The rear derailleur tensioned in this way leaves a gap through which the stub axle and quick-release nut can slip if you push the wheel slightly from behind, for example with your knee.

3. tension the rear derailleur as described under point 2 and place the chain on the outermost sprocket. It is important that the parallelogram does not swing inwards. Clamp the rim of the rear wheel with your knees and move the frame forwards, then downwards and backwards again so that the axle slides into the mountings. Check that the rim is centred between the rear struts and close the quick release and brake release lever.

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Texts: Dirk Zedler, Photos: Daniel Simon

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