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Level of difficultyfor experienced screwdrivers
Tool
- Specific chain riveting tools
- Spoke as holding aid
Aids
- Chain lubricant
- Grease
- Rags
Tips for changing the chain
Cleaner ban
Chain cleaning machines and special grease removers do more harm to the chain than good. The grease inside the joints is dissolved by the cleaners and the dirt is not completely rinsed out. New oil or grease cannot flow in sufficiently even when the chain is dry. Chains cleaned in this way are clean on the outside but poorly lubricated.
Tools for changing the chain on a road bike
Without the right tool for the chain, the newly fitted chain becomes a safety risk. If you don't want to buy the special tool, it is better to have the chain fitted by the dealer.
Chain length
Chains that are too long run louder and can jump off. Chains that are too short can cause the rear derailleur to get caught in the spokes or the chain to break if the chain runs unfavourably - risk of falling!
Auxiliary tool for changing the chain
To determine the chain length and assembly, a bent spoke helps to hold the chain in position.
No riveting
A chain must not be reopened at the point of the connecting pin! The chain would be insecure after re-riveting. Secure re-riveting is only possible with a new Shimano eleven-speed rivet or the Campagnolo Ultra-Link. The ten- and eleven-speed chain locks from SRAM can no longer be opened. If the chain needs to be removed, use the riveting tool to push out a pin on the locking link. Re-locking is possible when changing the chain with a new chain lock.
Shortening ban
Campagnolo has attached a warning to the chain end with the outer plates. These outer plates are prepared for riveting and must not be shortened.
Clean properly
1. First measure the elongation of the chain with the Wippermann or Shimano gauge or the Rohloff-Calibre. If the chain is worn, you should change it to protect the sprocket and chainrings. You can then save yourself the trouble of cleaning.
2. If the chain is still good, wrap a cotton cloth around the bottom of the chainring. Pull the cloth backwards. Turn the crank backwards half a turn and wipe again. Repeat this until the chain is largely clean.
3. Scrape off resinified and soiled oil with a plastic scraper (e.g. a Tyre lever) from the chainrings; steel (e.g. screwdriver) causes scratches. Then wipe the chainrings and cranks clean with a cloth.
4. In the same way, remove dirt and used oil and grease from the tension pulley and guide pulley of the rear derailleur. Wipe the rear derailleur and front derailleur clean as well.
5. Shift to the smallest sprocket and remove the rear wheel. Clean the sprocket by threading a folded cloth between every two sprockets and pulling it back and forth, turning the sprocket a little at a time until it is clean.
6. If you want a particularly clean chain, place it on the large chainring and strip it link by link from the inside to the outside.
Lubricate chain
1. For many, the choice of lubricant is a question of faith. The most reliable is Special chain oil. It moistens the chain with a film that reduces noise and makes it clearly visible whether lubricant is still present. Dry lubricants keep the chain clean, but experience has shown that they need to be applied more frequently.
2. Turn the crank backwards and apply a thin layer of chain oil to the running chain so that the lubricant is evenly distributed. Then turn the crank a few more revolutions and allow half an hour for the oil to be absorbed between the plates and rollers.
3. Finally, wipe off any excess oil with a cotton cloth so that it cannot attract dirt and splashes are not thrown onto the tyre and rim - which not only looks unkempt: Oil on the rim flank weakens the braking effect.
Changing the chain: The right chain length
1. Place the new chain over the large chainring at the front, over the smallest sprocket at the rear and guide it through the rear derailleur. Make sure that the chain does not rub anywhere. The bolts of the rear derailleur pulleys must be vertically aligned.
2. When changing the chain, check whether the length really fits by running the chain over the small chainring and the smallest sprocket. The guide roller of the rear derailleur must then be 5 to 15 millimetres away from the lower chain strand.
3. Cross-check: Place the chain over the large chainring and the largest sprocket. The guide cage must not be fully tensioned. It must still be possible to move it slightly upwards; the chain should lose tension in the process.
Shimano
1. Shimano's asymmetrical eleven-speed chains have a fixed running direction. On the outside, you will recognise the embossing on the plates. Position the chain so that the embossed lettering faces outwards.
2. Shorten the chain when changing the chain with the TL-CN 28 chain riveter or 34 at the end of the chain that ends with the inner link plate. In this way, the outer plates remain in their original condition. Place the chain in the tool and turn the spindle evenly until the rivet is completely pressed out of the chain.
3. Place the chain on the small chainring, at the rear on the smallest sprocket and guide it through the derailleur cage. Attach the self-made retaining bracket as shown in the picture. Push the greased connecting pin through the assembled chain from the outside.
4. Place the chain in the 5 riveting tool when changing the chain. It must be guided cleanly and the tip must fit precisely into the countersink of the rivet pin. Turn the spindle of the tool evenly until you feel and hear the rivet engage. The force with which the spindle must be turned will then decrease immediately. Do not continue turning!
5. Remove the rivet pusher. Check whether the riveted link can be moved freely by pushing the links together by hand and whether the rivet (without insertion aid) protrudes equally on both sides. The chain must be pulled apart completely by the tension of the rear derailleur.
6. If this is not the case, you will need to move the chain slightly or press the rivet down a little if necessary. Finally, break off the guide pin on the rivet with pliers. Finally, when changing the chain, hang the bike on the assembly stand so that you can shift through all gears and test the correct function of the drive.
Change chain: Campagnolo eleven-speed
1. Shorten the chain with the 2 tool UT-CN 300 from Campagnolo. Pull the cotter pin out of the tool and swivel the small latch outwards. Insert the chain into the rivet and secure it with the cotter pin. Turn the spindle until the rivet is pushed out completely.
2. Guide the chain over the small chainring and smallest sprocket and attach the retaining bracket. Push the greased chain rivet with insertion aid from the inside to the outside through the assembled chain. Is the chain length correct? Then insert the chain rivet from the inside to the outside with the latch open.
3. Secure the chain by pushing the split pin into the tool. Turn the spindle evenly until the rivet engages. At this point, the force decreases slightly. Stop immediately! Remove the rivet pusher and check: The chain rivet must protrude outwards by a tenth of a millimetre.
4. If everything fits when changing the chain - and the link is still movable - push the protruding insertion aid of the rivet into the tool and break it off. Swivel the bolt into the chain riveting tool and reattach it from the outside, i.e. in the opposite direction to before.
5. Secure the chain with the split pin. Make sure that the conical tip runs exactly into the rivet pin. Turn the spindle further with a little force: the rivet is widened slightly, the protrusion of 0.1 millimetres remains! Check the ease of movement of the rivet joint by pushing the links together by hand.
6. The chain must be pulled apart completely by the tension of the rear derailleur. If this is not the case, carefully bend the chain back and forth across the direction of travel until the link is no longer jammed. Then shift through all gears to test the correct function of the drive.
Change chain: SRAM
1. To fit the chain lock, two inner plates must form the ends of the chain to be locked. Therefore, shorten the chain by half a link, i.e. one outer link plate more than required for the optimum length.
2. The gap to the optimum length is bridged by the chain lock. The lock has a fixed running direction and must be aligned so that the arrow on the outward-facing link points in the direction of chain travel and the arrow on the inner link points in the opposite direction.
3. Guide the suitably shortened chain over the smallest sprocket, the small chainring and through the rear derailleur. Attach the retaining bracket. Grease the bolts of both parts of the chain lock.
4. Insert the locking parts into the front and rear ends of the chain in opposite directions. Then bring the ends together and hook the pins with the grooves into the opposite outer plates. Press slightly and pull the link apart.
5. If everything fits, turn the chain backwards until the locking link is in the upper chain strand. Check the chain length and the orientation of the locking link again.
6. Step on the pedal to lock the chain, which will make a clicking sound. Check that the link moves smoothly. Finally, hang the bike on the assembly stand so that you can shift through all gears and test the correct functioning of the drive.
Further workshop tips can be found in the standard work "The road bike workshop" RRP 24.90 euros.
TOUR author Dirk Zedler is the owner of the Zedler Institute for bicycle technology and safety GmbH. Zedler - Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH specialises in testing bicycles and components in its own test laboratory. The company also develops and builds test systems and equips test laboratories for bicycle manufacturers.
