Unbekannt
· 04.08.2017
Level of difficultyfor talented hobby mechanics
Tool
- Chain whip
- Sprocket tool
- Chain tool (Shimano 11-speed: TL-CN 28, TL-CN 34)
- Hexagon socket spanner
- Torque spanner
- Slotted or Phillips screwdriver, Di2 cable tool if necessary
Auxiliary materials
- Grease
- Rags
- Safety goggles
TIPS
Chain length: If the chain is on the large chainring and the smallest sprocket, the two roller bolts of the rear derailleur must be approximately perpendicular to each other. In the "large-large" cross-check, the rear derailleur cage must not be fully tensioned.
Security: The mandrel of the chain riveter and the rivet itself are made of hardened steel. Occasionally these break off and fly around. Therefore, wear safety goggles when carrying out this work!
Position: After fitting the chain and rear derailleur, also check the front derailleur.
Lubrication: If the rear derailleur does not work satisfactorily in any setting, there is usually too much friction in the system. Clean and lubricate the rear derailleur and cables. The Bowden cables may need to be re-routed.
Fall: If the wheel has fallen onto the derailleur, be sure to check whether the derailleur
eyelet is still straight and the inner end stop still limits the swivelling range sufficiently. Push the derailleur by hand in the direction of the spokes and turn the wheel using the cranks.
Campagnolo: Campa rear derailleurs have two differences to Shimano and SRAM when it comes to adjustment: The end stop screws are on the outside, and the distance between the guide pulley and the sprockets is regulated by the screw on the underside of the rear derailleur, close to the axle of the guide pulley.
Sample: After completing the work in the assembly stand, shift through all gears and check the front and rear end stops in particular. Take a test ride in a traffic-free area and check all functions carefully.
You can find the detailed instructions as a PDF in the download area below.
Downloads:
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