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It is best to clamp the bike in an assembly stand or a wheel holder, as this is the easiest way to work. Mechanic's gloves protect your hands from dirt and lubricants. The first step is to rinse off coarse dirt with clear water and soak the bike.
This is where the toughest dirt lurks. Spray all parts of the drive with an organic chain cleaner, then leave to act briefly. We do not recommend chain cleaners as they remove all the lubrication from the chain.
Use a small brush with hard bristles to scrub the chain, cassette, cranks and derailleur pulleys thoroughly. One Pinion brush can help to remove dirt between the sprockets. If possible, keep the chain cleaner away from the bearings. Then rinse everything clean with water.
Now you can cover the rest of the bike with Cleaning spray Spray on. Brakes and brake discs are generally not affected by this, so don't panic about the foam bath. The foam carpets that bubble out of the mobile cleaners have a high entertainment value, but require good aim to ensure that the foam hits the racer and is not wildly distributed in the area.
One Brush with long, soft bristles gently removes the coating from the frame, wheels and suspension elements. Never use the drive unit brush for this! Don't forget hidden areas such as the underside of the saddle, fork crown or the underside of the seat and chain stays.
Wash out the brush from time to time to avoid spreading dirt unnecessarily.
Dirt and cleaning agents can now be easily washed off with a gentle jet. Always proceed from top to bottom. Caution: Do not use a hard jet of water on the bearings!
Especially in winter, it is worth drying off with a Microfibre cloth. However, make sure that there is no dirt on the cloth that could scratch the paint surface. Finally, rub the drive dry with an old cloth.
The dry drive now requires new lubrication, at best with Organic chain oil. To do this, apply lubricant to all moving parts and joints on the left and right. After it has worked in, you should wipe off any excess chain oil, otherwise it will attract an unnecessary amount of dirt.
Treating your bike with a protective wax at the end makes the next wash easier. This makes it difficult for dirt to adhere to the wheel. To prevent wax from getting onto brake discs and pads, apply the wax with a cloth or remove the wheels and cover the brake callipers with cloths.
Washing should take place on paved surfaces with a connection to a sewer. In private areas, you can also wash your bike on overgrown ground, but then only with water.
When it comes to bike maintenance, everyone has their own method. A few Useful utensils are part of our basic equipment.
With a good set of brushes, you can reach every nook and cranny of your bike. Our top three: With soft, long bristles and a high water capacity, the Dynamic Soft Washing Brush Ideal for large surfaces, wheels and tyres. The Muc-Off Detailing Brush with short, hard nylon bristles scrapes stubborn dirt from the drive unit and the Flexible fine brush from Peaty's gently cleans hard-to-reach areas.
The wash mitt from Dr Wack (>> e.g. available here) has replaced the classic sponge for pre-washing. It absorbs an extremely large amount of water, perfectly removes coarse dirt and is gentle on the paintwork thanks to its soft fibres. Caution: Rinse frequently during the wash to avoid spreading the dirt. Can be put in the washing machine and tumble dryer.
Not everyone has a water connection at their washing area. A bucket filled with lukewarm soapy water is therefore ideal for topping up mop water or cleaning brushes between washes. Construction buckets with handles are particularly robust, available at any DIY store and can be used to store cleaning utensils after washing.
A fluffy deep-pile cloth is ideal for "stripping" the bike after washing. It prevents water stains and protects the paintwork. The microfibre cloth is available from Sonax in the Pack of two for 8.89 euros.

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