Aerodynamics? That's professional stuff, I don't need to worry about that, you might think. If you're just cycling for pleasure and don't care about speed, that's true. But as soon as it's about performance, about going a little or a lot faster, mastering air resistance is fundamental - at any typical road bike speed.
It doesn't matter whether it's a 25-, 30- or 40-metre average as in a professional race. If you want to ride faster, you always have to prioritise aerodynamics. Because beyond 18 km/h, aerodynamics is the dominant driving resistance on flat terrain. When mountains come into play, uphill resistance takes over the first role. But even in mixed to mountainous terrain, aerodynamics often remain the most important factor when it comes to cutting corners. Targeted aero tuning has a similar effect to losing several kilograms!
With the following tips, we will show you how to slow down effectively and save money. Our times are based on a realistic simulation of a 100-kilometre ride with 1,000 metres of elevation gain:
1. dress better
Loose clothing slows you down enormously. A tight road bike outfit gives you a significant speed advantage. With a one-piece suit, which can also be a comfort gain in summer, you can increase your speed even more. An aero helmet also offers a small advantage over rugged models - but usually with a loss of comfort due to poorer ventilation.
- Cost: Around 250 euros (one-piece)
- One-piece instead of flappers, upright position
- Acceleration from 25.7 to 26.8 km/h
- Savings: 10:07 minutes
2. sit faster
The rider's body causes the lion's share of the air resistance. Therefore: put your head down, flatten your back, keep your arms close and grip the brake levers. This is the fastest position for riding with racing handlebars.
- Costs: none/stretching exercises
- One-piece, flat seating position
- Acceleration from 26.8 to 27.6 km/h
- Savings: 06:19 minutes
3. steering with support
The best hardware investment for speed cycling is a triathlon handlebar. With an attachment, you can give your old racer wings. This is more effective than switching to a modern aero racer. By placing your arms in front of your body, you reduce your frontal area and improve your aerodynamic shape at the same time. Caution: Triathlon handlebars are prohibited in most everyman races!
- Cost: from 60 euros
- One-piece, flat seating position, Tria handlebars
- Acceleration from 27.6 to 28.5 km/h
- Savings: 6:49 minutes
4. change impellers
With high-profile wheels, you are putting a sail surface into the wheel that allows you to ride faster than with semi-aerodynamic rims - at the price of higher steering forces and instability.
- Costs: from 800 euros
- One-piece, flat riding position, fast wheels
- Acceleration from 27.6 to 27.9 km/h
- Savings: 02:29 minutes
5. opt for aero models when buying a new bike
When it comes to a new bike, consider an aero racer. Whilst the wheel only accounts for around 20% of the total drag, the difference between a modern aero flounder and a thick tube frame is substantial enough to make it worth considering.
- Costs: from 3,000 euros
- One-piece, flat riding position, fast frame
- Acceleration from 27.6 to 28.2 km/h
- Savings: 04:12 minutes
6. cumulative benefits of all 5 options
All the improvements mentioned, from clothing to posture to the material of the bike, combine to give the biggest speed boost.
- One-piece, flat riding position, aero handlebars, fast wheels, fast frame
- Acceleration from 25.7 to 29.6 km/h
- Savings: 30:40 minutes
*Calculation basis: 100-kilometre lap with 1,000 metres of elevation gain. Rider weight: 75 kg, bike: 7.5 kg. Average pedalling power: 161 W, pedalling significantly harder uphill than flat or downhill.
