Round trip on Mallorca - Mallorca in stages
My friend Carsten is an engineer, drives a German mid-range car, keeps a training diary and is not a hothead in other respects either. Nevertheless, every spring there are these comments about how great the coup was. The others in the cycling group also have something to say about it. I prefer to ride behind them on my own, because I really don't have an opinion on the coup. Carsten and a coup? Hard to imagine. Of course, it was once again about Mallorca. About the ascent to the highest mountain, the Puig Major, whose name sounds like a military takeover. It continues with heroic stories, route tips and a retrospective weather report. The Mallorca training camp seems to be a religious duty for ambitious cyclists. I, on the other hand, shudder when someone says "Malle" and tense up at the sight of "Olé" socks and jerseys from the training camp market leader's "Rad sportpaket". But the others say: "Malle is simply good, you have to see it." And now the time has come: the airport bus takes silent Spaniards, my companion and me, my skat brothers from Bünde laughing in an emphatically masculine manner, out into the glistening sun beyond the terminal.
UNDER THE HAND LUGGAGE LIMIT
It is difficult to say how many thousands of racing cyclists head to this Mediterranean island every spring. The only thing that is clear is that there are nowhere more - and the sporting public changes from month to month: While the jerseys of the professionals still dominate the scene in December and January, replaced by the licensed riders, by March at the latest the crowds of amateur riders dominate, interspersed with club teams. From Easter, when it's really warm and nice and green, the leisure cyclists in the senior classes set off across the countryside. This is perhaps the best time for a stage tour with small luggage and changing accommodation: the large training groups have gone, the bathers are still few and far between. Hoteliers are therefore happy to rent out accommodation for one night, and even if it rains it would be warm enough for the ride to the next stage destination. Woolly hat, neoprene overshoes? Stay at home. The rucksack easily falls below the airlines' hand luggage weight limit.
Of course, Mallorca fulfils every cliché at our starting point, the Arenal beach: the German residents are too blonde, too brown, too gold-watched. Then there are the bodybuilders intoxicated with bucket drinks and selfies. Waiters in pressed shirts fatten up mountains of fat in neon shorts. It really does exist - but it ends just ten kilometres from the party beach as quickly as if you had left a zoo through the revolving door. Even the first coffee stop seems to be on a different island.
If this were a training camp, it would have been at least 50 kilometres more before the first click-out. But enjoyment and scenery are at the top of our agenda. The bay of Cala Pi paralyses any remaining sporting drive. It is still early in the morning and the rocky bay lies so quietly, as if patiently waiting to be discovered. At half past ten, the first bathers shuffle through the sand. They walk across the idyll and remind us that it might be time to move on.
FROM COUP TO COUP
Now, at the beginning of May, the sun's harsh light makes it clear that the cycling season is about to take a summer break. Green leaves still occasionally cast their shadows. Poppies bloom behind the long walls of layered limestone, and the first fields of grain have already been mown. The earth roasts between rows of stubble and cyclists burn up on the roads as soon as they stop. Nevertheless, it's smooth sailing in the flat centre of the island, interrupted by a few stately hills with churches on top. Randa is the name of one, Sant Salvador another, Bonany the third. The names are actually much longer and more elaborate, but for cyclists in training, the short form and the knowledge that a well-paved, low-traffic road leads up to each one is enough. The Mallorca routiniers at home had also reported on Randa and the tough climb to the summit. There is also a coup there. But Petra, a pretty village in the middle of it all, really has a surprise in store. The Mallorcans allegedly call it: "the colourful plague". The colourful plague is us racing cyclists, who clog up the streets in spring. In May, the more modest remnants of the plague still occupy the centre of Petra. Men supposedly in their prime stretch their legs out of rolled-up cycling shorts across the plaza, showing their stomachs and chests. The banners of various cycle tour operators fly above them. If the colourful plague really is true, the Mallorcans are pretty immune to it. In any case, the staff speak English and German and are always friendly. Another point in favour of the racing bike island: most Mallorcans can stand it for minutes in the car behind groups of cyclists without freaking out. Mallorca owes its wealth not to sheep's cheese, but also to its cycling guests.
"My guests are always amazed at how relaxed the Mallorcans are towards cyclists," reports Jan Eric Peters, who runs a very special hostel for cyclists in the centre of the island, in Sineu (www.ma13.net). His accommodation concept is at least as unusual as our idea of a stage tour: the sports scientist and active stand-up racer runs a temporary shared flat. He also believes that cyclists are missing out if they only stay in the tourist resorts on the coast. Up to six people, who don't necessarily know each other beforehand, make themselves at home in his smart house in Mallorca's most central town. Breakfast is included and the residents can cook dinner together. "Sport brings people together. It always works," says Peters. It would have been worth a try, the sportsmen's shared kitchen, but our destination for the day is the north coast.
The fact that there is a wide cycle path next to the main road after Alcúdia is astonishing, even by Mallorcan cycling standards. But even more astonishing are the people using it: Triathletes in full battle gear - almost naked - on their carbon bikes, occasionally on foot. Fully concentrated, but always nice and slow, in the green heart rate zone. They have half an Ironman ahead of them the next day. They don't even know what a favour they are doing us - strict police officers will be blocking the road for the big event. Until ten o'clock in the morning ... and this road is the only entrance to Cap Formentor, which shines against a blue sky and blue sea from the cover of the map. It must be a marvellous thing, this northern tip. And the cape will be ours, car-free in the morning light, because the cycle path remains passable!
CAR-FREE CAP FORMENTOR
The price for this is an early start. Very early - an hour before the white sheets open the breakfast buffet. While the eyes still don't want to focus properly and the brain is still dawning, smells and sounds reign supreme. Morning dew evaporating on the first long climb behind Pollença, leathery leaves, hardened against drying out, full of resinous scents, a flowering shrub that smells like a cough sweet stall in the pedestrian zone. Grey birds sit in the branches and whistle tremendous melodies. They must have lungs like Miguel Indurain. As the sun warms noticeably an hour after the early start, its rays illuminate a sailing yacht far out at sea. Someone jumps off the boat and cheers. You can hear it all the way up to the road, which winds its way 200 metres higher through karstic limestone. Praise be to the Ironman road closure! Our route dramatisation envisages a daily increase in the enjoyment of the landscape. But a car-free Cap Formentor will be hard to beat - even though the Tramuntana mountains make a real effort. A Southern Alps look with side roads through neighbouring villages where people mainly speak Mallorcan, pleasant climbs, dramatic low views and seagulls above.
Inevitably, however, our beautiful tour ends where it began: at the infamous Ballermann. We have to return the hire bikes and then catch the plane back to Germany. Not showered? Better not. So to the beach shower to scrub off the sun cream and road dust with a splash of soap. In my swimming trunks, very civilised. Wondrous Mallorca: things usually happen on this beach that even private television conceals with black bars or coarse pixels. But public showers are obviously an attraction. The beach people look puzzled. "Hey, guys," they want to shout, "there's nothing to look at here! But have you ever seen the mills, the villages, the forests and the cliffs? Or the coup? It's really cool!"
INFORMATION
ARRIVAL
Probably no other European island is as firmly anchored in the flight schedule as Mallorca. Lufthansa, Condor, TUIfly, Air Berlin, Ryanair and Easyjet fly regularly from German airports to Palma de Mallorca. Scheduled buses start in front of the terminal and take around 15 to 20 minutes to our starting point on the bay of Palma. By taxi, the journey costs around 12 to 15 euros.
BEST TIME TO TRAVEL
Even though the peak training camp season is between February and mid-April, for connoisseurs it starts around Easter and ends at Whitsun due to the heat. From May, the intrepid can swim in the sea. Also good: October.
RADSERVICE
LoadingPort de Pollença (near the marina): Pro Cycle HireCarrer Temple H. Fielding 3, tel. 0034/971/ 866857, www.procyclehire.com
OrganiserMulti-day road bike stage tours on Mallorca, where the luggage is transported by the organiser, offer, for example Vuelta (Tel. 0511/2157101, www.vuelta.de) and Radissimo (Phone 0721/354818-0, www.radissimo.de)
ACCOMMODATION
To get to know Mallorca more intensively, overnight stays in the interior are a good option. However, one-day guests are of little interest to the fincas. In the tourist resorts on the coast, remaining rooms are available via platforms such as www.hotel.de on the other hand, can be obtained cheaply.
EAT & DRINK
In the tourist resorts on the coast, the restaurants we visited charged around 15 to 20 euros for a main course, but were unable to fulfil our expectations. Perhaps it is better to book accommodation with half board?
All information about the Mallorca stages as well as the complete Mallorca article (climbs and stages) can be found below as a PDF download.
You can also find the GPS data for these stages as a free download below:
Day 1: From the Ballermann to the bay
78 Kilometres, 490 Altitude metres, max. 5% Gradient
The short and only slightly undulating stage on the south coast makes it possible to start the island tour on the day of arrival. If you arrive early, plan a longer swimming break in the pretty bay of Cala Pi or use the afternoon for an extra loop to the quiet beaches of the Cala Mondrago nature reserve, around ten kilometres southwest of the destination.
KMORTDIRECTION0StartPlaya de Palma, Hotel Cupido South3.5leftJunctionCarrer Joan Alcover,
at the roundabout after 700 metres turn left4,7rightJunction on the main roadCala Pi28,9turnCala Pi, bayback to main road (MA 6014),
there (33.0 km) right: Santanyi41.2rightJunctionimmediately left: Ses Salines, Santanyi47.9straight aheadRoundaboutSes Salines56,7straight fromRoundaboutSantanyi64,6leftSantanyi, small roundabout in the centreCala d'Or, also at the large roundabout70.3straight aheadAlgueria Blanca, junctionCala d'Or77.9TargetCala d'Or, roundabout at the entrance to the village
Day 2: Over the camel's back
103 Kilometres, 1070 Altitude metres, max. 11% Gradient
The long ride through the heart of the island is spiced up by two clear peaks in the elevation profile: the panoramic hilltops on which the pilgrimage churches of Sant Salvador (368 metres in altitude) and Nostra Senyora de Bonany (150 metres in altitude) are enthroned. The roads and villages in the centre of the island are often pleasantly quiet. Exception: the main square of Petra, which is regularly besieged by cyclists. Around Alcúdia, a training camp location, the main roads even have cycle paths.
KMORTDIRECTION0StartCala d'Or, roundabout at the entrance to the villageNorth: Palma, Portopetro3,4rightCalonge, confluenceS'Horta, but then: Felanitx13.8rightFelanitx, crossroads with traffic lightsPortocolom, after 600 metres do not turn left, but straight ahead into the narrow Carrer Convent. At the large roundabout again: Portocolom16.8rightBranchSant Salvador; back to Felanitx and follow the signs to "Petra "45.0leftJunction shortly before PetraSign "max. axle load 5 tonnes". After 400 metres, take a sharp left uphill to Ermita Bonany and back to Petra53.0leftPetra, junction with main road after 600 metres (junction before church) turn right: follow signs to Sant Joan; refreshment tip: 100 metres before, turn right to the main square with bars & restaurants54.6right BranchSineu (Ma-3300)63.5rightSineu, junctionsoon stay left of the tracks, cross the tracks at 64 km, follow the signs to "Llubi", also at the roundabout and junction (65.2 km)70.4straight aheadJunction Ma-3440Immediately right, through Llubi. At the junction (71.4 km) left-right: Sa Pobla79.2rightSa Pobla, roundabout at the entrance to the townPort d'Alcúdia89.9straight aheadRoundaboutPort de Pollença100.5rightRoundabout before Port de PollençaFormentor103.2DestinationPort de Pollença, marina
Day 3: Karstic cliffs
Kilometres 99altitude metres 1900, max. 10% Gradient
To be able to enjoy the spectacular views at Cap Formentor in peace and quiet, an early start can be a good idea. After the 40-kilometre lap, graze the breakfast buffet and then follow the pleasantly ascending coastal road into the mountains, past Lluc Monastery and the highest mountain on the island. Grandiose descent to Sóller. Strenuous extra loop (at kilometre 74): Descent to the village of Sa Calobra and the ascent back up the C 710 (an additional 560 metres in altitude/ 40 kilometres).
KMORTDIRECTION0StartPort de Pollença, marinaFormentor, to the cape and back37.4rightPort de Pollença, roundaboutPollença, Palma (Ma-2200)45.1straight aheadRoundaboutSóller96,5rightRoundaboutPort de Sóller99.0TargetPort de Sóller, harbour
Day 4: Sneaky routes to the finish
Kilometres 89altitude metres 1550, max. 11% Gradient
This stage also revels in the beauty of the Tramuntana mountains. The route towards the capital takes you along smaller and smaller roads until you reach the city limits. The most nerve-wracking section at weekends is the cycle path along the beach promenade back to the start at S'Arenal: skaters, pooches, party people. Recommended lunch stop: the Es Pont bar on the main road (Sa Travessia 2) in Puigpunyent.
KMORTDIRECTION0StartPort de Sóller, harbourBeach promenade, Deia3.0rightBranchValdemossa21.6rightJunctionAndratx, Puigpunyent31.0rightBranchPuigpunyent40.8rightPuigpunyent, confluenceGalilea, straight ahead (44.8 km): Es Capdellà52.0leftEs Capdellà, junctionCalvia, Palma55.4 leftCalvia, junctionPuigpunyent62.4rightBranchColl de Sa Creu70.5rightRoundabout before PalmaGenova71,8leftGenova, town entranceBona Nova, El Terreno75.1 leftPalma, junctionAfter 400 metres turn sharp right, follow the riverside promenade (Ragweg) at the bottom left89.1DestinationPlaya de Palma, Hotel Cupido
GPS DATA: TOUR offers the tour data for free download. You can download the tracks in GPX format directly onto a GPS device or view them on your computer in Google Earth or Google Maps.
