Mallorca travel report: Beautiful road bike tours on Mallorca: exploring the island on two wheels

I feel like I'm probably the last road cyclist on the planet who has never trained on Mallorca. It just never happened. Well, maybe I was a little reluctant too. The hype surrounding the cycling paradise was too great and then there was the issue of "overtourism", which is becoming increasingly controversial on the island. Why did I end up here anyway? The editors probably thought it was funny to send me of all people: the anti. So off we go. The hotel is booked, a brilliant hire bike is ready - and now? Now it's raining. It's market day in Alcúdia and the pavement is slippery. Behind the Roman columns of the archaeological site, I see cyclists passing by in the drizzle. In droves. Soaked to the bone. No, my love of pedalling doesn't go that far after all. I've been whistling for years on Mallorca, so the few hours don't matter any more. I'd rather order another cortado and continue reading my book about the many writers and musicians who have made their homes in the Mallorcan mountains for almost a hundred years.

The coastal strip here in the north is a far cry from the aesthetic charms of an artists' colony. The palm-fringed Playa de Muro, where I am staying, is home to hotels, restaurants, supermarkets and racing bike hire stations. White boxes with palm trees stand around them. With grey skies and shiny rain, it's not a particularly pretty sight. I confess: my mood has been better in the past. At least the rain eases in the early afternoon and I finally get on the saddle. Just under two hours later, I'm pedalling up to the Ermita Santa Magdalena. Just one hilltop, but a nice little climb. On an internet portal, the Puig de Inca, where the hermitage is located, is categorised as an insider tip, but that is probably history.

A dozen or so cyclists are standing next to me around the closed chapel. And yet, I'm slowly feeling better. My first tour is a gentle up and down. Just right to familiarise myself and get used to the narrow roads. The car drivers are surprisingly considerate. Presumably they can't help themselves in view of the masses of racing cyclists.

Switch to connoisseur mode

I like the tarmac roads lined with dry stone walls, behind which sheep and horses graze, and the waving grain, cypresses, olive trees and cacti. I like the winding villages and sit down in front of the supermarket in Moscari next to two old men who give me a friendly nod. "Bones tardes." I have finally calmed down. "You're here now," I say to myself, "just enjoy it." Eventually, the sun even comes out and bathes the mountains in a conciliatory evening light. Daniel Knyss sits down at my table for dinner.

The former racing cyclist has spent most of his time on the Baleraren Island since 1997 and is now the sports director of the cycling holiday provider Philipps Bike Team. "There were years when I was here five or six times," he says. When it comes to overtourism, he shrugs his shoulders: "It's crowded here," he admits, "but I think it's wonderful when there are more cyclists than motorists on the road." You just have to be considerate of each other.

At the moment, he says, there are actually a lot of cyclists out and about. He refers to various events at the coming weekends, which will attract even more people. Daniel knows hundreds of kilometres of small paths and provides me with tips and GPS data. He could probably send me on obscure side routes through the countryside for days, but as a Mallorca greenhorn I can't avoid the classics of course. The next day is 1 May. Hardly a cloud in the sky, 22 degrees. No wonder it feels like half of Europe has decided to cycle out to Cap Formentor.

I have never seen so many cyclists at once in my entire life. Bike clubs, cliques, couples and lone riders from all over the world are out and about. There are an astonishing number of women, young hipsters and wiry senior citizens. You can hear the whirring, clicking and clacking of bikes everywhere, happy faces shining under caps and helmets. And of course, I too am overwhelmed by the beauty of the legendary cul-de-sac. The unreal blue of the sea, sometimes indigo, sometimes turquoise. The jagged rocks that look as if someone had made them out of egg carton. A new spectacle awaits around every bend. Shortly before the end, the inevitable happens: A traffic jam forms, a jumble of cars, bikes and coaches. Everyone wants to get up to the lighthouse. A veritable siege.

And then I arrive at the northernmost tip of the island, which resembles a gigantic Instagram post. "Would you be so kind as to take a picture of us?" I'm asked. Of course! Unfortunately, the queue at the café is so long that I immediately reject the idea of having a hot drink. Overtourism, but hello! Only I have to admit that it doesn't feel so bad right now. Or, to put it in the language of my sons: treat yourself!

Unexpectedly lonely on Mallorca

My next tour proves that things can be done differently on Mallorca. It takes me to the north-east of the island. No, this region is no longer an insider tip, but it is still a stark contrast to the previous day.

In the pretty little town of Artà, there are also plenty of cyclists sitting around in the Plaça, but in the Serres de Llevant, a series of smaller mountain ranges and chains of hills in the east, tourism is at its most pleasant. And this despite the fact that the road to the Ermita de Betlem can compete with the best routes on the island. Here, too, the cliffs take your breath away. There are also flower-filled meadows, citrus and almond trees and cool stream beds. In the area west of Sant Llorenç des Cardassar, I only meet one other cyclist for a whole hour. Maybe there are two or three, but the region feels really lonely.

The road runs straight for kilometres through the hills. Bleating sheep pluck at the little green that sprouts from the rust-coloured earth. And then a group of horses is driven past me in the middle of the tarmac. The air is filled with the sweat of the animals, the sun is shimmering. I stop and marvel. I have chosen a less original tour to round off my short stay in Mallorca. The loop through the north of the Tramuntana mountains, including the ten-kilometre serpentine road down to the hamlet of Sa Calobra (which I insist on calling "Sascha Lobo" because I simply can't remember the name), is a spectacle, a must, the crown jewel among the Mallorca classics. I certainly won't be alone on this compulsory exercise. At the famous Repsol petrol station on Coll de sa Batalla, dozens of my peers are milling around. Most of them are holding to-go cups in their gloved hands. I forgo the caffeine and prefer to drive over to the aqueduct at the junction to Sa Calobra. The little kiosk out in the middle of nowhere serves more guests than any beach café, almost all of them road cyclists.

Strengthen and reach new heights on Mallorca

A sandwich, a Coke, and on we go up to the 721 metre high Coll dels Reis, where an abyss opens up before my eyes. The road down to the sea is clearly a dead end. It is the most famous descent on the island - and the most famous ascent. Not exactly ideal for the midday heat. I overtake a few fellow cyclists and am overtaken by many others. One of them is a Brit who looks like he's spent his life at the bar of a pub: beer belly, tattoos, over 60's. In the next hairpin bend, his gears go on strike and the chain jams. The Brit swears, I overtake.

A little later, he pedals past me again. Where does he get the strength from? Then more swearing. The game, demoralising for both of us, is repeated three times. It's windy at the top. I pour myself a bottle of water. Now nothing can happen to me. The few climbs on the way home are negligible. I pedal myself into a frenzy. A labyrinth of jagged rocks whizzes past me, pastures, holm oaks. In the distance, the sea shimmers as a deep blue stripe. There is little doubt at this moment that Mallorca is a paradise for road cyclists.

I am happy to finally be able to experience it. So happy that I stop briefly to capture the beautiful moment on my mobile phone. I lean my bike against the crash barrier and cross the road. "Cazzo!" shouts a cyclist, which I won't translate here, racing towards me at a speed of at least 60. He is the first in a group of Italian racing cyclists who have to take a small detour because of my carelessness. "Scusate", sorry, I mutter meekly and get back on my bike. You shouldn't be too relaxed in the Mecca of cyclists. Never mind, I need food, fluids and an aperitivo for now. Luckily, Pollença with its bars and restaurants is not far away. I can stay in connoisseur mode.

Information: Road cycling in Mallorca

Arrival

Palma de Mallorca is served by direct flights from many German cities several times a day. Many bike hotels offer transfers to and from the airport. Otherwise, there are cheap hire cars available at the airport. Bike transport (there and back) costs between 100 and 200 euros depending on the airline, but local bike hire is also recommended.

Best time to travel

Spring is particularly popular. However, the first cyclists arrive at the end of January. The island is then lush green and the scent of almond blossom is everywhere. The professional teams are also out and about on Mallorca in spring. The season ebbs away at the end of May because it gets too hot for most riders in summer. Autumn is also increasingly used by racing cyclists, with October and November being the rainiest months. On the other hand, the second half of the year is much quieter on the island.

Info

Official tourism portals of Spain and Mallorca (in German):
www.spain.info/de/region/mallorca-insel
www.mallorca.es/de/inici

Current news in German:
www.mallorcazeitung.es
www.mallorcamagazin.com

Food and drink

Most cycling hotels have buffets. In addition to pasta, there are almost always Mallorcan specialities such as grilled meat, fish and sobrasada sausages (with peppers). Lamb, rabbit and pork are among the island's typical meats. Paella is also a common dish; don't miss the crispy rice crust that forms on the bottom of the pan after it has evaporated. Many dishes are flavoured with plenty of garlic, and mint, rosemary and thyme are also popular. Almonds are also an important ingredient. The island's 750,000 almond trees are in bloom in January and February.

Restaurant tips

Alcúdia: Bistro Gourmet Plaça de la Constitució 7

Friendly service in the centre of the square. The tapas are solid, but nothing special. Nevertheless, a good place to enjoy the hustle and bustle of Alcúdia in the evening.

Port de Pollença: Beach restaurant at the Hotel Bahia

Thanks to its marvellous location on the beach, it is ideal for a lunch stop. The restaurant also serves smaller dishes such as club sandwiches or fresh salads of good quality. If you still have room for dessert, you should go a few steps further. There is a highly recommended ice cream stand. Phone 0034/697315058 / hoposa.es/en/hotels/bahia

Pollença: La Scalinata

A marvellous place, especially if you have just whizzed down the Coll de Femenia. Surrounded by historic buildings, large families, hikers and cyclists dine in peaceful harmony. There is a wide choice: from salads, Mallorcan-style hamburgers, bocadillos and crêpes to grilled dishes and pizza. Phone 0034/633518152 / lascalinata.wixsite.com/lascalinata

Accommodation with bike service

Playa de Muro, Hotel JS Alcudi Mar
Phone 0034/87027952
www.jshotels.com/de/js-alcudi-mar

Alcudi Mar, a hundred metres from the beach, specialises in cycling and has a Philipps Bike Team hire station with a small bike shop. There is a sauna, a steam bath, a whirlpool and a fitness centre. The breakfast and evening buffets are varied and plentiful. Double rooms with breakfast cost from 80 euros in March, for example. The bike station rents out bikes in various categories from 120 euros per week up to 230 to 280 euros (depending on the season) for carbon racers with electric Ultegra gears. Philipps Bike Team also offers guided group rides in various ability groups. Complete packages including transfer, accommodation, catering and guided tours are popular. Information at radsport-mallorca.de

Traffic rules

There are rules for cyclists on Mallorca that should be observed, as offences are punishable by severe fines. For example, driving through a red light can cost 150 to 500 euros. Talking on the phone while cycling is prohibited, as is the use of headphones. Pedestrians always have priority, not just at zebra crossings. Groups of cyclists have right of way at roundabouts and junctions - this applies from the first to the last cyclist in the group. Anyone setting off, changing lanes or turning off should indicate their manoeuvre. Cyclists are allowed to ride in pairs on country roads, provided the route is clear. Unsurprisingly, several cyclists are killed every year on Mallorca, either in accidents or due to physical overload.

Overtourism

Mallorca recorded 45.9 million overnight stays in 2023, with around 14 million holidaymakers visiting the island every year. Many Mallorcans think this is too much. This has led to protests and demonstrations for several years. In May 2024, the president of the regional government, Marga Prohens, announced that new tourism models would be developed in dialogue with the population. For example, the number of hire cars and accommodation is to be reduced in future. The number of cruise ships allowed to dock on the island is also to be reduced. Hotly debated topics include water consumption, the commercialisation of land and nature conservation. Cycle tourism is a good way for Mallorca to increase hotel occupancy in the off-season. It therefore definitely has a sustainable component. On the other hand, many locals are annoyed by the masses of cycling groups.

Don't miss it!

Alcúdia: Roman heritage

Just outside the old town of Alcúdia are the ruins of the Roman city of Pollentia. The archaeological site includes the small but excellent Museu Monogràfic de Pollentia. You don't have to plan too much time for the visit, but it's still worth it. Information at www.alcudia.net/Pollentia/es/el-museu (Spanish)

Palma de Mallorca: Shopping tour

Anyone interested in road bike fashion should visit Palma de Mallorca. The flagship stores of Rapha and Café du Cycliste are just a stone's throw away from each other, not far from the cathedral on Plaça del Rosarí. Information at www.instagram.com/cafeducycliste_mal lorca and content.rapha.cc/en/clubhouses/mallorca

Coffee break

A quick stop at one bar or another can help you to realise that there are also locals on Mallorca. People in work trousers with dirt stuck to their boots, ladies who meet to chat after shopping at the market, young people who check their hair on their mobile phones.

Orientation: Mallorca

The largest island of the Balearic Islands - Mallorca is around 100 kilometres long and 77 kilometres wide - is located around 170 kilometres from the Spanish mainland in the Mediterranean. It has 900,000 inhabitants spread across 53 municipalities. Palma, the island's capital, is also the capital of the Spanish autonomous community of the Balearic Islands. Spanish is spoken on Mallorca, but increasingly also the Mallorcan variant of Catalan. Around 20 per cent of the population are foreigners. Mallorca, which is about as densely populated as Germany, has 43 harbours and more than 100 beaches. Around 63 per cent of the gross domestic product is generated by tourism.

Tour character

The quality of the roads on the Balearic island has improved significantly in recent years. New cycle paths have also been built; the capital Palma de Mallorca also has a few cycle paths, especially along the coast. Mallorca is not considered a Mecca for racing cyclists for nothing. Two rugged mountain ranges frame the island, in the northwest the Serra de Tramuntana, which rises up to 1,436 metres (Puig Major) and through which spectacular roads lead, and in the east the Serra de Llevant, whose hills rise up to 500 metres above sea level. Most of Mallorca's climbs are moderately steep, with a few rather short and steep ramps as exceptions. The centre of the island with the Es Pla plain, on the other hand, is flat to undulating and has always been farmland with quiet villages and pretty little towns with narrow streets.

GPS data

You can find these and many other tours at touren.bike-magazin.de.

Mallorca routes to follow

Tour 1: To the Ermita Santa Magdalena

72 kilometres | 600 vertical metres | max. 11 % gradient

This perfect tour for rolling in first leads through the agricultural plain of Es Pla. A first coffee stop is possible in Sa Pobla. We head south on minor roads, where the chapel of Saint Magdalena is located 291 metres above sea level, which we reach via a series of steep hairpin bends. We cross a motorway bridge to reach the hilly landscape below the Tramuntana mountains. Narrow roads lead through small villages. A marvellous cycle path begins behind Campanet and leads through orchards and almond plantations almost all the way to the sea. Around Pollença, numerous small roads join the coastal road, which is now lined with wide cycle paths. The last few kilometres lead directly along the sea and offer magnificent views of Cap Formentor and the Victòria peninsula.

Tour 2: Into the Tramuntana mountains

114 kilometres | 2,000 vertical metres | max. 10 % gradient

We leave the coast along the Parc Natural de S'Albufera nature reserve. We cycle along reed walls into the plain and through Sa Pobla to Campanet. A shortcut leads us to the foot of the mountains. The pass road to Coll de sa Batalla (578 m) climbs moderately, only becoming steeper shortly before the famous Repsol petrol station. Now we have finally reached the mountains and cycle parallel to the turquoise blue coast to the turn-off to Sa Calobra. From there it's 2.5 kilometres uphill to Coll dels Reis (721 m). The sight of the bold ribbon of tarmac that winds its way through a barren gorge to the coast takes your breath away. Keep an eye on the many groups of cyclists, cars and coaches on the descent. But it's still fun. If you start the return journey at lunchtime, you will have to make do without shade, at least in the lower half. Further up, there is usually a breeze. We head back towards Coll de sa Batalla before turning north-east at Luc. The route is mostly downhill through the Maccia, lined with huge boulders. Apart from a few small climbs, the 20 kilometres to Pollença are the easiest part of the tour. If you want to enjoy an aperitivo in Pollença, you can do so without stress. The last few kilometres to Playa de Muro are on small, almost flat roads. Rest tip: kiosk at the aqueduct (junction of Ma-10 and Ma-2141). Cake, chips, cola. Not exquisite food, but calories. Exception: fresh orange juice. Despite the rush, you can get there quickly.

Tour 3: Cap de Formentor with a detour

88 kilometres | 1,400 vertical metres | max. 11 % gradient

The 18-kilometre-long spur road to the Cap is one of the most popular and spectacular on the island. It starts in Port de Pollença, which you can easily reach on the flat coastal cycle path. After the first ascent at Coll de la Creueta, the route winds downhill and then climbs gently uphill. This is followed by a few short ramps and descents until you finally reach the lighthouse. And now the whole thing back. But this time with completely different views. The only handicap in view of the magnificent landscape: you have to decide whether you prefer to stay in the flow or stop for photos. Port de Pollença is recommended for the lunch break. From there, head to Cala Sant Vicenç. The marvellous bay is wedged between mountains. A small path leads to the water's edge. On the return journey, you first cross Pollença and then pedal relatively flat through the Maffey Valley. A few small hills later, we cycle through Sa Pobla back to Playa de Muro.

Tour 4: Lonely East

102 kilometres | 1,150 vertical metres | max. 8 % gradient

The first and last part of the route runs along the fairly busy Ma-12 road, which is not a problem given the beautiful landscapes and the hard shoulder. Only shortly before Artà does the road climb gently uphill. With its cosy old town, Artà (population 8,000) is a good place to stop for a coffee or lunch. After the fortress, you reach the Ermita de Betlem after ten kilometres on the Ma-3333. The road leads through marvellous landscapes and winds its way through the Serra de Llevant just before the monastery church. We take the same route back to Artà, then turn south-west. The roads through the hills in the east are surprisingly straight and therefore have somewhat steeper, albeit shorter, gradients than in the west of Mallorca. The loop through the deserted region ends with a long straight across a stony plateau before joining the Ma-12 again after a marvellous descent. From the junction, you can be back in Playa de Muro in three quarters of an hour. Rest tip Artà (Km 28.0 and 46.6), Pessics, telephone 0034/871/252674. Alternative-inspired restaurant in the central square. Catalina Mestre cooks Mallorcan specialities with a modern twist. Her pambolis (toasted bread) and llonguets (bread rolls) are topped with lots of creativity and fresh ingredients.