Text: Markus Stitz
In Scotland, which has been my home for 17 years now, the weather is at its most consistent in autumn. There’s enough daylight to clock up a fair few kilometres before rain and snow turn the winter months into a test of character. But what about Nova Scotia, the ‘New Scotland’? The Canadian province on the other side of the Atlantic, which is still very much shaped by its Scottish immigrants? The short answer: Nova Scotia is my top tip for autumn. As my partner Louise comes from neighbouring Quebec, I was able to get a taste of the breathtaking colours that await me in early October two years ago in her hometown on the Gaspé Peninsula. But in the north of Nova Scotia, in Cape Breton – home to the world-famous Cabot Trail – the autumn colours are even more intense. Based on my experiences in Quebec, I’d expected it to be quite chilly by early October, but this time I’m finding the opposite to be true. The warm weather not only creates ideal conditions for the magnificent colours of the leaves – with intense shades of orange, red, purple and yellow – but also for cycling. What sets this Canadian province apart from the barren hills of the Scottish Highlands is its dense forest. Combine these forests with quiet country roads, challenging climbs, beautiful gravel sections and a breathtaking coastline, and a ride along the Cabot Trail quickly becomes an unforgettable experience.
» Combine these forests with quiet country roads, challenging climbs, beautiful gravel sections and a breathtaking coastline, and a ride along the Cabot Trail quickly becomes an unforgettable experience. Markus Stitz, travel editor
Much like the North Coast 500 in my home country, the Cabot Trail is a scenic route. Over 298 kilometres, there is a total ascent of 3,600 metres. My route, which includes additional gravel sections and a detour to the north, is 472 kilometres long and has an elevation gain of 5,750 metres. At the invitation of Tourism Nova Scotia, I’m taking part in the six-day Cabot Trail tour organised by Freewheeling Adventures. My hire bike is a Trek Domane AL – fitted with tyres that are fast enough to make good progress on tarmac and offer enough grip to tackle all the gravel sections. The guided tour makes the logistics much easier. After three days in Halifax, the capital, I’ll travel by Freewheeling van to our starting point, the Glenora Inn & Distillery near Inverness on the west coast – a four-hour drive. On the sixth day, after five days in the saddle, we’ll reach Baddeck around midday and cycle back to Halifax. If you’re cycling the Cabot Trail independently, it’s naturally more of a hassle to organise everything yourself. Baddeck is the best place to start and finish, but it has no direct links to public transport. The nearest option is the daily bus from Halifax to Wagmatcook, 15 kilometres south of Baddeck. From there, you can only continue by taxi; there is neither accommodation nor food available in Wagmatcook. Bicycles must be packed onto the bus. It is easier to start the journey in Sydney, which can be reached by plane and train. Although a guided tour is more expensive, it includes not only transfers but also accommodation and most of the meals, whilst allowing plenty of time for your own explorations and photo stops. On the journey to Inverness, I get to know the other participants better. Adrian, our laid-back driver and tour guide, knows Cape Breton inside out, as he grew up here. Patrice and Carla, a couple from Switzerland, have booked the tour as the grand finale to their extended round trip through the Maritime Provinces of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. Then there’s Sally and Stan, a cheerful couple from Alaska. The travel package includes a very detailed handbook in PDF and printed formats, a route-tracking app and all the GPX files, which I can easily upload to Komoot. My luggage is transported from hotel to hotel; a luxury compared to my bikepacking tours. Apart from the vast forests, a lot here reminds me of Scotland. Our accommodation for the first night in Glen Ora is Canada’s first and only single-malt whisky distillery. It has the same pagoda-style buildings as the distilleries back home. After a short guided tour, the first day ends with dinner at the Washback Pub, accompanied by live music. And, as is customary in Scotland, it’s raining outside.
Cycling like in a fairy tale
The rain stops in the early hours of the morning. Whilst we’re getting the bikes ready for the planned 76-kilometre route, the sun breaks through the clouds and slowly warms the ground. Everyone is raring to go. I screw my SPD pedals onto my bike, fit my saddle bag and top tube bag, my battery-powered light and GPS, and quickly take a few photos of the rest of the group. Shortly afterwards, I find myself on the first gravel section of a disused railway line leading me to Inverness. Travelling considerably slower than the rest, this is where I see my fellow cyclists for the last time before our next breakfast. Cycling here is like something out of a fairy tale: steam rises from the gravel paths whilst the sun gently warms the air and colourful leaves dance around me in the light breeze. The next section along the coast takes me over gravel again and offers sweeping views across the Gulf of St Lawrence. Somewhere to the west, I picture the rugged cliffs of Forillon National Park in Québec, my girlfriend’s birthplace. The crisp air and the fantastic views are what I’m enjoying most after the heavy downpours. By the time Adrian is waiting for me with lunch in Margaree Harbour, I’m already two hours behind the rest of the group. Dinner isn’t included this evening, so I seize the opportunity to cycle a section of the Cabot Trail that wouldn’t normally be part of the route: along the road to Margaree Forks and back to the coast via a bumpy gravel track. By the time I reach the coast again, the sun has already set, but the sky still offers a breathtaking spectacle. Whilst the rest of the group are already sitting down to dinner, I cycle the remaining 25 kilometres and arrive just in time at the last snack bar still open. A fantastic first day ends with some delicious seafood.
A sea of leaves in autumn colours
I’m usually used to planning my own logistics and routes. But it’s lovely to enjoy breakfast with the rest of the group at the guesthouse, accompanied by traditional music, and to share our impressions of the first day. To warm up, I’ve already cycled 20 kilometres to photograph the sunrise. Today’s plan is 78 kilometres with 1,400 metres of elevation gain – the longest stage of the trip. Whilst the others take the usual route from Chéticamp, I ride along a short stretch of gravel, take a tumble and bruise my left knee. Not ideal for the two biggest climbs of the whole tour, but the landscape is so breathtakingly beautiful that the pain fades into the background. The road offers everything I could wish for from a great cycle tour: little traffic, challenging climbs and fantastic viewpoints as a reward. The temperature is perfect, and wherever I look, I see the beautiful autumn colours. Cycling along the coast, I find myself amidst a sea of leaves in every conceivable shape and shade. As I don’t want to hold Adrian and the rest of the group up at the agreed meeting point, I’m skipping lunch today. With such breathtaking scenery, I manage to cover 96 kilometres on just a few muesli bars. The evening in Dingwall offers a welcome chance to catch up with the rest of the group again. The food is excellent, and after a long day in the saddle, I still have room for dessert. My accommodation for the night is a traditional wooden cabin facing east – ideal for the sunrise. As I sit outside sipping a beer, I listen to the gentle lapping of the waves. Moments like these make a fantastic day on the bike even more special.
» The rain stops in the early hours of the morning. Whilst we’re getting the bikes ready, the sun breaks through the clouds and slowly warms the ground. Everyone is raring to go. Markus Stitz, Travel Editor
Trails at White Point
The excitement carries over into the next morning when I meet up with Patrice to watch the sunrise. Today’s stage from Dingwall to Ingonish is just 53 kilometres long and involves a 600-metre climb, albeit with a headwind. Instead of joining the group for a lunch stop, I grab a few muesli bars and some fruit from the van, along with some cheese and bread, and set off early on my own route. The ride up to Bay of St Lawrence, a small village and the northernmost point of my journey, adds about 40 kilometres to my route. The roads are incredibly quiet, and by the time I reach the headland, the effort has been well worth it. But the highlight of the day is still to come – White Point. The trails here are the most challenging of the whole tour, but for a while I have the rugged peninsula with its steep cliffs all to myself. The Cabot Trail follows the rocky coastline with steep climbs and rapid descents, which today add up to almost 1,900 metres of elevation gain. By the time I reach the Keltic Lodge, my next hotel, I’m happy and tired. The striking complex of buildings perches on a cliff above the sea – another superb spot to round off the day in style with a beer after dinner. As a keen mushroom forager, I’m particularly looking forward to my accommodation for the final night of my trip: the Chanterelle Inn. Unfortunately, there are no chanterelles to be found anywhere, as Nova Scotia has experienced a long dry spell this summer and autumn, but the description of the little lodge sounds just as fantastic as the six-course dinner. I extend my route by another 40 kilometres and add a short (and free) ferry crossing to Englishtown. The temperatures have now dropped significantly, from just over 20 degrees on the first few days to a chilly 2 degrees in the morning, and the strong wind makes the ride more strenuous than expected. However, the cosy atmosphere of the Chanterelle Inn and the evening meal provide a pleasant end to the most gruelling day on the Cabot Trail. Just like on the second day, I get up early the next morning and cycle 17 kilometres along gravel tracks before having breakfast with the rest of the group. Today’s stage is short and ends around midday in Baddeck. Unlike on the other days, I often bump into Clara and Patrice along the way. Although I stick to the Cabot Trail for the most part, I include a short off-road section just before Baddeck, which feels like a fitting end to five days full of discoveries. We finish our tour at the Highwheeler Café & Bakery, one of the best cafés in town. After some delicious pastries and coffee, we pack up the van and drive back to Halifax. I’m left with wonderful memories – Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail have exceeded all expectations. At first, I wasn’t sure whether a guided tour would be right for me, but I really enjoyed the experience. Chatting with the other participants about the day’s adventures and not having to worry about food and accommodation were bonuses that made the extra cost well worth it. In terms of scenery, there’s hardly a better place for cycling in autumn than Nova Scotia. And wherever I looked, I kept seeing the same words on signs, door frames and menus: ‘Ceud mìle fàilte’. A Scottish Gaelic expression meaning ‘a hundred thousand welcomes’. Cape Breton’s warm hospitality, combined with the breathtaking autumn colours, makes this a fantastic destination.
Cabot Trail: The Route
The Cabot Trail is a A 298-kilometre route in the north of Cape Breton. For a cycle tour, it is advisable to follow the route in a clockwise direction. The route described here is based on a guided tour organised by Freewheeling and starts in Glenville. It initially follows the Trans Canada Trail (TCT) and Highway 19, known as the Ceilidh Trail. From Margaree Harbour, the route runs along the Cabot Trail itself as far as Chéticamp. This idyllic coastal town is the ideal destination for the first stage. On the second day, the route takes you into Cape Breton Highlands National Park, the scenic highlight of the tour. Two long climbs of eight and seven kilometres respectively make this section the most challenging day of the trip. In return, the views from the coastal road are spectacular. In summer, whale-watching boat trips are available off Pleasant Bay. Another option is a hike along the Skyline Trail, although this is often very busy. The route then runs south of the Polletts Cove–Aspy Fault Wilderness Area. Covering an area of 27,230 hectares, it is Cape Breton’s largest wilderness area and is situated at the northern tip of Nova Scotia. In Dingwall, there are various accommodation options for the second night. From Dingwall, the Cabot Trail continues along the coast. White Point is worth a detour before the route heads back through Cape Breton Highlands National Park towards Ingonish. Whilst the climbs on the eastern side are shorter than on the western side, the route involves almost constant ups and downs. Black Brook Beach is a good spot for another break. Ingonish has a good selection of accommodation and is also an ideal starting point for additional cycling and walking tours. After Ingonish, Cape Smokey presents the final major climb. After that, the Cabot Trail becomes significantly flatter, although the wind on this section can pose an additional challenge. The ferry from Jersey Cove to Englishtown offers the chance to shorten the route. The section from South Haven to Baddeck is hilly once again. Although it isn’t part of this trip, it’s well worth exploring the rest of the Cabot Trail by bike from Baddeck.
Information and tips for a cycling trip along the Cabot Trail
Entry into Canada
Travellers from the EU require a valid eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation), a passport and a return ticket.
Travelling to Halifax
Direct flights operate from Germany to Halifax in Nova Scotia from April to October, usually from Frankfurt, with a flight time of around seven hours. Connections with one stopover are available all year round, typically via Canadian hubs such as Toronto or Montreal with Air Canada. Air Canada charges 50 dollars per leg for transporting a bicycle. Halifax city centre is about half an hour from the airport. Taxis are easy to find. The number 320 bus offers an affordable alternative for travelling from the airport to the city centre.
Best time to visit
Nova Scotia has a temperate, maritime climate, strongly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. This means changeable weather, frequent wind and relatively mild extremes. The best time to visit is from May to October, with July and August being the warmest months. The autumn colours are at their best during the first three weeks of October.
Accommodation
I have in the The Lord Nelson Hotel & Suites stayed overnight in Halifax (approx. 135–175 euros per night) and went on the Cabot Trail cycle tour with Freewheeling Adventures booked. The tour costs around 2,760 euros in a twin room, plus approximately 660 euros for single occupancy. The tour includes accommodation at the Glenora Inn & Distillery (Mabou), the Maison Fiset House (Chéticamp), at the Markland Inn (Dingwall), the Keltic Lodge (Ingonish Beach) and the Chanterelle Inn (St Anne’s Bay), as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner. Accommodation can also be booked directly or via online platforms.
Food and drink
Cuisine in Nova Scotia is strongly influenced by the Atlantic and is particularly renowned for its fresh seafood: lobster, scallops, oysters and mussels feature on menus almost everywhere, often sourced directly from the cold waters off the coast. Classics such as lobster rolls and seafood chowder are just as much a part of the cuisine as simple ‘fisherman’s plates’. At the same time, there is an exciting blend of influences from Scottish, French (Acadian) and Indigenous cuisines, which is reflected in hearty, down-to-earth dishes. In cities such as Halifax, you’ll also find a thriving food scene with cafés, breweries and creative restaurants, whilst in the countryside, small diners and local markets often offer surprisingly high-quality fare. Vegetarian and vegan options are easy to find.
Personal recommendations
• Seafood Stop Restaurant & Fish Market, 14803 Cabot Trail, Chéticamp, B0E 1H0
• Clucking Hen Café & Bakery, 45073 Cabot Trail, North Shore, B0C 1H0
• High Wheeler Café, 484 Chebucto Street, Baddeck, B0E 1B0
Information
Cabot Trail tours, bookings and guided tours in English, www.freewheeling.ca
Information about cycling in Nova Scotia, in English, www.novascotia.com/explore-nova-scotia/outdoor-activities-tours/cycling
Information about the Cabot Trail, in German, https://travel.destinationcanada.com/de-de/things-to-do/incomparable-cabot-trail
Bicycle Service & Hire
You can hire bikes and book guided tours in Halifax at www.iheartbikeshfx.com book. For the Cabot Trail, my bike was provided by Freewheeling Adventures as part of the tour. The upgrade from a hybrid to a road/gravel bike costs 120 euros for the entire duration of the trip. You can find bike shops in Halifax, but they are very rare along the Cabot Trail. Vélo Max Cycling in Cheticamp is the only fully-fledged bike shop directly on the Cabot Trail.
Don’t miss it!
The Celtic Colours International Festival takes place every year around the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend in October; in 2026, it will run from 9 to 17 October. During this time, concerts, sessions and events take place across Cape Breton Island in many small communities – perfectly timed to coincide with the peak of the autumn colours.
Map
A map is available to download at https://cyclingns.ca/the-cabot-trail/
Furthermore, when you enter the national park, you’ll find further information about the climbs and rest areas. I used Komoot for navigation, which worked without a hitch.