Text and photos: Marlene Kazic
We set off on our first exploration tour around Omessa and, for the time being, have one specific goal in mind: breakfast. Since we’re on French soil, we simply have to start the day with a croissant and a pain au chocolat. We’re ravenous, so we cycle straight along the busy main road towards Corte. The main roads are often flanked by wide hard shoulders, which we can use to get out of the way of the traffic. In Corte, we pop into the Boulangerie Casanova, which delights us with its fluffy pain au chocolat. Now we feel ready to explore the hinterland of Central Corsica and set off towards Santa Lucia di Mercurio. Before long, we feel at one with our bikes; our breathing becomes calmer with every turn of the pedals.
Corsica gets more beautiful with every bend
Santa Lucia di Mercurio can be seen from a distance – the village sits imposingly perched on a hilltop. We take a short break and are glad to have brought our own food, as there are no places to stop for refreshments here. The views of the surrounding mountains get more beautiful with every bend in the road. We’ve already fallen in love with the island and can all too well understand why it’s nicknamed the “Île de Beauté” – the Island of Beauty. The roads here seem tailor-made for road cycling, even if the tarmac isn’t always in perfect condition.
But we’re happy to overlook that, as we’re practically the only ones on the road and can always give way. By car, it would probably be spectacularly narrow in places here, at least when there’s oncoming traffic. After a wonderful drive, we reach Tralonca, which we’ve explored on foot before. It’s yet another picturesque mountain village. It’s a shame there isn’t a little café in the small square. A few scattered chairs give the impression of a café, but we can’t find any indication of opening hours.
After a rapid descent, we reach the main road again and decide to cycle up towards Soveria on the way back. The mountain village wins us over with its tranquillity and the little stone cottages with their colourful shutters. We reach Omessa at the end of our first stage, having taken in many unforgettable sights, and can hardly wait to explore even more places on this wonderful island by bike.
Corsica can be chilly too
The next day, we set off from Omessa once more and realise that even in summer, it can still be a bit chilly in the mornings in Central Corsica – at least until the sun bathes the landscape in a golden glow and its rays gradually warm our skin. We cycle along the quiet, little-used roads to Corte to really warm up. There’s very little traffic and the climbs are moderate. Here, unlike on the main road, we can take in the surroundings at our leisure.
Once you’ve arrived in Corte, it’s a good idea to stop for breakfast. On the one hand, because we simply can’t resist the smell of croissants wafting from the boulangeries, and on the other, because there won’t be any places to eat later on the route. So, when it comes to provisions, more is better, and especially in summer, you can never take too much water with you.
We were won over by the Confiserie Grimaldi patisserie, which offers a generous breakfast and, thanks to its central location, is the perfect place to linger. Anyone who likes to put together their own breakfast will definitely find something to their liking in the display case and leave feeling happy.
Off into the countryside
Having refuelled properly, we set off along the D39. Here, too, we soon notice that the traffic is thinning out, and it feels as though we have the island all to ourselves. Long, gentle climbs alternate with steeper sections; the tarmac is mostly in very good condition. The views that unfold before us are unique. One mountain panorama follows another. We gradually find our rhythm on the Corsican tarmac and have our first encounters with free-roaming cows; we keep calm and are allowed to pass unhindered. We particularly like the wooded stretch on the way to Bustanico. We find ourselves in the heart of the Bozio Forest.
Here we meet a local cyclist who asks us about our ride and turns out to be one of the few people we encounter on this route. We pass through a few picturesque mountain villages, such as San Lorenzo and Morosaglia, which, however, seem rather deserted. The locals we meet are always extremely friendly. They offer us water and usually ask if we’ve got lost. We quickly realise that, out here in the hinterland, we’re more or less the only cyclists around, and for that reason alone we fall in love with the area.
The highlight of today’s tour is the descent from the Col de Prato. If you love descents, you’ll be in your element here; it demands a fair bit of riding skill, but rewards you with some lovely hairpin bends. We ride downhill towards Ponte Leccia along a picturesque route on excellent tarmac. We pause our rapid descent to take a few photos. Before heading back to Omessa, we stop for a bite to eat at Panetteria Pasquale Paoli. Whether you fancy something sweet or savoury, they’ve got something to suit every taste here.
Welcome to the Wild West
For our next tour, we’re taking the route to Ponte Castirla to ease into things. First thing in the morning, it’s not just our legs but our whole bodies that need warming up. The spectacular gorge begins at Ponte Castirla, captivating us with its imposing reddish rock formations. As we set off early in the morning, there isn’t much traffic. We can enjoy the view in peace and stop a few times to take photos. We feel as though we’re in the ‘Wild West’ and can’t stop marvelling at the scenery.
There are a few places here where you can head down to the river and find a shady spot for a swim. It’s quite tempting, but we’re heading up the mountain. The condition of the road demands a fair bit of concentration from us. For over 15 kilometres, the road winds its way through the gorge, with a steady, moderate gradient throughout. We could make good time, but we keep stopping to capture the breathtaking scenery on camera.
We don’t return to civilisation until we reach Calacuccia, a lively village which, like Albertace, offers a few places to stop for refreshments. Anyone who’s already feeling peckish here should top up their supplies before the big climb ahead.
Uphill through dense woodland
The route takes us past Lac de Calacuccia. The actual pass begins roughly at the same altitude as Ponte Altu and is 19 kilometres long. The entire climb takes us through dense woodland, which suits us down to the ground given the high summer temperatures. The tarmac is mostly in very good condition, although there are a few rough sections in the middle with very old tarmac, which, however, was being resurfaced during our stay.
The Col de Vergio is a very rhythmic and gentle climb that never gets particularly steep. It’s a mountain to savour, one that allows you to keep a cool head. Once we’ve reached the summit, we stop for refreshments at the little kiosk and take a moment to reflect on our experiences.
We’re heading back along the same road. The descent is fast, but again requires a great deal of concentration due to the poor condition of the road in places. We also keep coming across cows and wild domestic pigs by the roadside, so we need to be extremely careful. We’re grateful to be able to drive through the wonderful gorge once more, which is already bathed in the afternoon sun as we make our way home.
Hors Catégorie
The Col de Bavella is the first hors catégorie climb, and we’re quite excited as we set off early in the morning. We drive to Solenzara and stop for a coffee and a croissant on the way.
From Solenzara, it’s about ten kilometres by bike before the actual climb begins – ideal for warming up your legs and mentally preparing for the mountain. We stop a few times along the way to take photos of the stunning surroundings of the Bavella massif. The rocks are often tinged with red, their colour matching the asphalt, which is also reddish in places.
We’re slowly approaching the climb, and we know it won’t be a walk in the park. The Col de Bavella demands both physical and mental fitness. We’re working up quite a sweat and our legs are burning with every turn of the pedals. The gradient averages between seven and ten per cent. Unfortunately, this climb is very well known and also very popular with day-trippers in their cars. So we’re not alone as we battle our way up, bend after bend.
Step by step towards the summit
At the start of the climb, we’re mercilessly exposed to the sun, but the second half of the route takes us mostly through the shade of the forest. This allows us to keep a cool head, at least to some extent. The summit seems a long way off, but step by step we make our way towards it.
Once we’ve reached the top, a photo with the ‘Col de Bavella’ sign is, of course, a must. So we’ve made it. We pause for a moment, feeling proud, before refuelling with a Coke for the rest of the journey and taking in the view. There are a few small eateries and campsites here. Many hiking trails also start here, so there’s quite a bit of hustle and bustle. At the end of the climb, we feel one thing above all else: pride and gratitude for having healthy bodies that enable us to enjoy all these adventures.
Once again, it’s time to turn back. We cycle the same route back to Solenzara, stopping a few more times to take photos. By now, we’re also coming across more and more cyclists who are battling their way up the climb amongst the cars. Our forearms are literally cramping up from all the braking, and we’re looking forward to flatter stretches of road again. We’ve both got just one thing on our minds now: bikes in the car, bodies in the sea!
Towards the sun
The next day, for a change, we set off late and cycle towards the sunset. Our destination is Tralonca, a small mountain village that we’ve already hiked to from Omessa and now want to cycle up to. It isn’t a particularly long ride, but the balmy summer evening is perfect for it, and we’re glad not to be cycling in the blazing sun for a change. It’s a good thing we quickly leave the main road and turn off towards Tralonca.
The climb is wonderfully gentle and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and hills, which are already bathed in the golden light of the low-hanging sun. An added bonus is the tarmac, which is in excellent condition and allows us to enjoy the surroundings to the full. We make the most of the low evening sun to take some lovely landscape photos and enjoy the final descent on perfect tarmac. On the way back, Soverato and Omessa also glisten in the light of the golden hour.
On our last day, we want to explore the countryside around Omessa once more. At Francardo, we turn onto the D239 towards Aiti. This is followed by a rather challenging climb, seven kilometres long with an average gradient of six to seven per cent, which winds quietly and in the shade through the surrounding woodland, though the tarmac is very poor in places.
Of all the stages of our Tour de Corse, this is perhaps the quietest drive, during which we find ourselves wondering time and again whether we’ll ever reach civilisation again. We keep glancing at the surrounding mountain ranges, which look rugged and barren in the midday sun. After Aiti comes a descent; we turn onto the D39 and cruise along what is now wonderful tarmac towards Ponte Leccia. The road runs alongside a river, and we’re tempted more than once to take a dip to cool off.
The heart of Corsica
There are no places to eat along this stretch either – so it’s advisable to come prepared. In Ponte Leccia, we stop for a bite to eat at our favourite bakery, the Panetteria Pasquale Paoli. We feel as though we’ve captured the heart of Corsica on our tours. What’s more, it often feels as though we’re the only tourists around. We’ve mostly planned our tours away from the tourist attractions and have been rewarded with a soothing and invigorating tranquillity. The final ascent towards Omessa is the crowning glory. It was always the final challenge of each stage and added a few more metres of elevation to every route. We’re enjoying it to the full – perhaps partly because we know it’s our last climb in Corsica that we’ll be tackling under our own steam during our holiday.
Travel Information: Corsica
Orientation
The French Mediterranean island of Corsica lies between southern France and Italy, to the north of Sardinia. Politically, the island belongs to France – but once you arrive, the blend of Italian and French influences becomes apparent. Corsica’s landscape is particularly appealing because of its diversity: turquoise bays and endless sandy beaches meet high mountains, deep gorges and dense forests. So if you like to combine an active holiday with a beach holiday, this is the perfect place for you. The breathtaking mountain and coastal roads make cycling tours a truly special experience. Among the best-known highlights are Cap Corse, the Calanques de Piana and the beaches around Porto-Vecchio. Corsica’s highest mountain is Monte Cinto, standing at 2,706 metres. It is situated in the north-west of the island in the Corsican high mountains. Anyone looking for road cycling cafés in the heart of Corsica won’t find any. Instead, you’ll find a special kind of tranquillity, secluded roads and plenty of elevation gain.
Getting here
By car
You can reach Corsica by ferry from either Italy or France. From Italy, ferries to Bastia depart from Genoa, Livorno, Savona or Piombino. The crossing from Livorno is considered the quickest, taking four to five hours. Those travelling via France can set off from Toulon, Nice or Marseille towards Ajaccio or Bastia. Anyone planning to explore the island during the peak season (June to September) should make sure to book their ferry ticket well in advance.
By plane
From summer 2026, travelling by plane is also set to become much easier, with direct flights available from Vienna and Munich during the peak season. The flight takes around 90 minutes.
Best time to visit
May to October. For active holidays, it is advisable to avoid July and August due to the heat. September is considered the most popular month for a combination of beach and cycling holidays. Corsica has a Mediterranean climate on the coast and significantly cooler temperatures in the mountains. This makes the island particularly attractive for active holidays, as you can escape the heat in the mountains of the island’s interior.
Well worth a visit
Corsica is particularly popular because of its diversity. Within a relatively small area, it boasts mountains, rugged coastlines and historic sites. Places particularly worth visiting include:
- the spectacular coastal roads around Cap Corse, with their small fishing villages and sea views
- the Calanques de Piana: a spectacular landscape of red cliffs on the west coast, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
- the port town of Bonifacio, with its white limestone cliffs and medieval old town
- the mountainous landscape in the island’s interior, with passes such as the Col de Bavella and the Col de Vergio
- the capital, Ajaccio, the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte
- the turquoise beaches around Palombaggia and Santa Giuli
- the wild Désert des Agriates region with its secluded coves
- the Restonica Gorge near Corte as a starting point for walks and alpine landscapes
- charming coastal towns such as Porto, Saint-Florent or Calvi
Pubs along the routes
- Pasquale Paoli’s Bakery: 20218 Morosaglia
- Grimaldi Patisserie and Confectionery: 15 Cr Paoli, 20250 Corte; Boulangerie Casanova, 11 Rés Bertrand Porrete, 20250 Corte
Information
- https://www.visit-corsica.com/de
- https://www.korsika.com/
- https://www.paradisu.de/insel-infos/korsika-steckbrief/
The author also publishes these and other cycling trip stories on her blog: https://sattelgeflüster.com
The stages
Tour 1
Omessa – Corte – Santa Lucia di Mercurio – Tralonca – Soveria – Omessa | 45.67 km, 917 metres of elevation gain
The perfect way to get started, familiarising yourself with the countryside and roads of Central Corsica on a manageable loop.
Tour 2
Omessa – Castirlo – Corte – Bustanico – San Lorenzo – Morosaglia – Ponte Vecchia – Omessa | 98.92 km, 1,820 metres of elevation gain
Deserted roads, plenty of climbs – mostly moderate – and wonderful views. A lovely, winding descent to finish.
Tour 3
Omessa – Col de Vergio – Omessa | 96.53 km, 1,384 metres of elevation gain
Despite following the same route both ways, this is a very lovely and scenic tour.
Tour 4
Col de Bavella | 60.57 km, 1,505 metres of elevation gain, 3 hours 36 minutes
Not a very long ride, but a challenging mountain loop that’s well worth the journey to get there.
Tour 5
Omessa – Tralonca – Omessa | 25.46 km, 533 metres of elevation gain
A lovely outing if you want to cycle for just a short while but still enjoy the mountain scenery.
Tour 6
Omessa – Aiti – Viernes – Omessa | 46.256 km, 822 metres of elevation gain
A relaxing finale that brings together all of Corsica’s beauty once again on a short loop.