What you need to know
The San Marco connects Morbegno in Valtellina with Val Brembana - i.e. the province of Sondrio with the province of Bergamo, over the Alpi Orobie at 1992 metres. The northern ramp from Morbegno is the long side: 26.6 km, 1742 metres in altitude and an average gradient of 6.5 percent. Not a ramp pass, but not a walk in the park either - more of a climb that adds up and really tests you. From the south (from Olmo al Brembo) it's shorter and much more challenging: 18.5 km at an average of 8.3 per cent, with peaks of over 12 per cent just before Mezzoldo.
The Via Priula, a Venetian trade route, led over this pass - and the name San Marco commemorates the patron saint of Venice. Just below the summit on the Bergamo side is the Rifugio Cà San Marco - built in 1593, it is one of the oldest shelters in the Alps.
| Ascent from Morbegno | Ascent from Olmo al Brembo | |
| Pass summit | 1992 m | 1992 m |
| Length | 26.6 km | 18.5 km |
| Altitude metres | 1742 Hm | approx. 1500 metres altitude |
| Ø Gradient | 6,5 % | 8,3 % |
| Tips | ~10 % | >12 % |
| Covering | Asphalt | Asphalt |
Surprise: car-free today
I set off from the hotel in Morbegno at 8.50am on 30 May. Bikepacking holiday, gravel bike, long day planned. The Passo San Marco is one of two long climbs of the day. I don't yet know that it will be the highlight of the day.
Five minutes after the start there is a banner. Car-free, 30 May, 9 am to 3 pm. I simply hadn't realised that this day was an official Bike Day. The road is closed to motorised traffic for six hours, free ride for cyclists.
After a few kilometres, shortly after Albaredo per San Marco, there is a starting arch. From here on: no more cars, no more motorbikes. Pedalling up the pass without the sound of engines is more intense than I had expected. I can hear my own breathing, the panting of the others, the chains of the bikes, the rolling of the tyres. I'm not worried that another motorbike is about to zoom past. Short conversations come naturally - for example with a Swiss couple that I had already seen at breakfast in the hotel and who had travelled here especially for this day.
There are quite a few cyclists on the road, but it's relaxed - no racing, no crowds. What surprises me: the range. From e-MTBs to high-end racing bikes, everything is there. My favourite is a 20" bike that overtakes me later on the descent, grinning broadly as I stop to take off my jacket.
Three times on the climb, there are people with water bottles at the side of the road. I am well supplied, others are happy and fill up their bottles.
There's a lot going on at the top. Music, free refreshments, snacks for sale. I get myself a cup of tea, take some photos and put on my jacket. What a coincidence that today is a car-free pass day. I shake my head and set off on the descent.
I had planned San Marco as a stage point. It came out as a highlight. Sometimes it's the pass itself. Sometimes the date. Both were right for the Passo San Marco.
The Passo San Marco compared to the Stelvio
| Passo San Marco | Stelvio Pass | |
| Pass summit | 1992 m | 2758 m |
| Length (long side) | 26.6 km | 25 km |
| Altitude metres | 1742 Hm | 1850 metres altitude |
| Ø Gradient | 6,5 % | 7,4 % |
| Tips | ~10 % | up to 14 % |
| Sweeping | few | 48 |
| Transport | quiet | Very high |
| Awareness | Insider tip | Icon |
| Character | Long ascent, even | Spectacle, classic hairpin bends |
| Bikepacking suitability | very good | possible, but more stressful |
In terms of sheer effort, the two passes are not that far apart. The Stelvio is higher and more famous - but also much busier. The San Marco is quieter. There are also panoramic views and photo opportunities at the top, but without the crowds.
Sandra Schuberth
Editor
