Italy between the Adriatic and the Apennines: Road bike tours in the Marche region

Sometimes the planning software really has a sense of humour. Or rather, it demands it from its users when an asphalt road suddenly turns into a stony tractor track, even though you checked the road surface on Google Street View when planning the route. But the sample was just 200 metres away ... So back we go and take a different route to Mogliano. Or Petriolo. Or Passatempo. Navigation apps like Komoot apparently get to know the route network more precisely the more road cyclists there are on the road. And that is not the case here, in the Adriatic hinterland. Or do only locals cycle here who already know their routes and prefer not to reveal them to the internet?

The brands: Map heralds potential

My hotel from the "Roadbike Holidays" hotel network, which is geared towards racing cyclists, shows a number of routes online, but as a travel reporter you have your pride and, on top of that, the idea of exploring a region as comprehensively as possible. This is especially true when the famous area around Cesenatico in Emilia-Romagna, where Italy's former cycling idol Marco Pantani trained the physical foundations for his legendary mountain attacks, is close by. The Marche region follows directly to the south. A glance at the map shows the potential: while the wide flatlands behind Cesenatico are characterised by straight roads that threaten boredom, the area south of Ancona is a winding road. Monte Conero, a 500-metre peak, is just a stone's throw from the sea, and a little way inland it is said to rise to over 2,000 metres. That looks good!

Second breakfast on historic steps

In the municipality of Potenza Picena, even the reality beyond the map is fun. After a flying visit to a delicatessen, I found a bakery with fragrant focaccia diagonally opposite and spontaneously decided to take it easy on the first inland lap. Sitting on historic steps with a second breakfast, I take a look at everyday life in rural Italy. Side note: for four euros, I enjoy delicacies that would cost at least twice as much at home with lousier flavours. The point in the "delicatessen" discipline goes to Italy - in Potenza Picena and practically always when the distance to the beach is great enough. A café with lots of people sitting outside? A ristorante with workmen's cars parked outside at lunchtime? Let's go inside!

Roads require attention

However, it would be wrong to claim that Le Marche is a unique highlight on the world map from a cycling perspective. Tourists describe Le Marche as "genuine", "rugged" or even "wild". In fact, towns and fields do not look quite as lavish as in Tuscany to the west. The fields, which are harvested early in the year, are as neatly laid out as wet combed hair or a bed of gravel according to a Zen gardener's morning routine, but many things appear shaggier and less Instagrammable than in the better-known neighbouring region. The tarmac, for example: the small roads, which sometimes lead in an exhaustingly straight line to the high places, require constant attention to cracks, edges and hollows in the changing light and shade. And cyclists are ruthlessly pushed off the wider, finely tarmaced roads near the coast. The nonchalance in dealing with rigid rules that is often praised by friends of the Italian way of life apparently also applies to the requirement to overtake cyclists at least 1.5 metres away. And so, at least in a 15-kilometre-wide strip from the sandy beach, you have to keep your nerve in traffic or flee onto bumpy shortcuts.

Three-zone area

The area is divided into three parts. At the bottom - at the very bottom - is the coastal strip with its almost industrially utilised Adriatic sand full of sun loungers for a fee, bouncy castles and a view of a timidly lapping sea plus breakwaters in front of it. The cliché of the rinsing beach also includes the immediately adjacent logistics zone of beach cafés, car parks and people waddling around in flip-flops with cool bags. A few metres further inland lies the valid boundary of this narrow strip: the main road and railway line. The towns on the coast itself are less important than those in the second zone of the landscape. Porto Recanati, for example, is historically only the sea access to the splendid town of Recanati, 300 metres above sea level, and Porto Potenza Picena is the small, touristy offshoot of the larger town of Potenza Picena, which sits pretty on a hill inland.

In arcs around the main streets

That brings us to zone two. It extends, roughly speaking, 50 kilometres inland. This is where the music plays for coastal cyclists. The villages are located on hilltops that seem to grow randomly out of the flatlands. The many rivers in the region are not dominant enough to provide any kind of structure to the wild growth of mid-mountain uplifts. Rather inconspicuously, the waters seep inland between reeds in the drier seasons. Only the main roads are orientated along these depressions, the rest of the routes follow the ridges of the hills from place to place, from town to town. And because motorists of all genders are reluctant to drive around cyclists, even in the Marche province, sporty cyclists make wide bends around these main roads in the valleys. Instead, they roll down hilltops, climb steeply uphill between fields of grain - and gain a decent amount of altitude in the process. 1500 metres of elevation gain over a hundred kilometres is a good calculation basis in the Marche low mountain range.

Peaks almost 2500 metres high

Zone three, on the other hand, begins more gradually. Where the hills reach an altitude of around 500 metres, the fields become smaller, the forest areas larger and the car density lower and lower. The Apennines form the Monti Sibillini, the smaller part of which lies to the south in Umbria. Some of the peaks are almost 2,500 metres high, with scenic mountain passes leading up to 1,500 metres. Cranking up there from the distant coast without a transfer is very ambitious. But to be based on the coast without having ridden the Sibillini is definitely an omission. A nice starting point for a tour of the Monti Sibillini is the small medieval town of Tolentino, just under an hour's drive from the coast. As I get on my bike in the main square, the working day begins for businesswomen elegantly strutting under arcades, while the men from the town cleaning service are already standing on the pavement with an espresso for a break. It's early in the day, the medieval clock tower casts a long shadow and points me in the right direction: I'm heading inland, westwards. To where the horizon line from the sea looked so promisingly jagged and the map promised wide meshes in the road network.

The eastern slope was largely spared from the 2016 earthquake

In 2016, an earthquake destroyed several places in the interior of the mountains, and roads and bridges were also affected. However, the eastern slope of the Sibillini, which I want to cycle on, seems to have suffered little. A few entries in the route planner also tell of various happy racing cyclists and their routes. In search of the greatest possible contrast to the sandy beach, my planning takes me into a side valley as quickly as possible. The road gradually increases the gradient - after all, the 2000 metres of altitude difference in the daily dose have to be achieved somehow. Behind the tiny village of Morichella, metre after metre casually adds up. A wide, lonely serpentine route winds its way through Mediterranean deciduous forest, occasionally offering views as far as the sea. After ten kilometres, the ascent takes a break. The road runs alongside the shores of Lago di Fiastra. A few weekend houses and restaurants are dotted around the reservoir, and at its western end, cooling motorbikes crackle in the sun. I have my sights set higher and keep climbing.

The vegetation becomes more alpine

In the cool air, the vegetation becomes more and more alpine, the still two-lane road is almost car-free. In Bolognola, the last village before the pass, the local craftsmen serve a nutritious three-course meal, but a minestrone will have to do for me. It's still too far to the summit at Valico di Santa Maria Maddalena (1455 metres) to pedal on a full stomach. The ski area at the pass below Monte Sassotetto, which is rather cute by Alpine standards, is deserted: no kiosk open to offer a coke for the descent, no car park with a viewing platform. The road slopes unspectacularly from the ski resort back towards the coast with increasingly steep and sharp bends - a kind of powder run for cyclists, with just the right mix of necessary speed control and flashing distant views for a cultivated downhill rush.

The brands offer variety in a small space

Several hundred metres lower down, with two espressos and delicious cakes (for just under four euros in total) The time is ripe for an interim conclusion: What are the reasons for travelling as far as Ancona instead of circling Rimini or Cesenatico? Curiosity is always a good argument. The search for less touristy places will be successful. But it is the diversity in a small area that leaves the strongest impression: between the neat rows of sun loungers on the Adriatic and the deserted expanse of the Sibillini Mountains, there are perhaps 60 kilometres in a straight line. A concentrate of coast, hills and high mountains, spiced up with striking villages and plenty of distant views. There are worse reasons to pack your bike.

Mountain finish

Unlike almost everywhere else in Germany, the historic town centres in the Marche region (and many other regions in Italy) are mostly located on hilltops. Why is that? We asked an expert: Professor Dr Thomas Ertl teaches "History of the Middle Ages" at the Free University of Berlin.

Dr Thomas Ertl says the following:

The fact that the villages are located on the hills is not a speciality of the Marche region. It is more of a common phenomenon in the Mediterranean region. It certainly has something to do with the climate, with the flight from the heat. In some valley locations, especially at swampy estuaries, protection against malaria could also play a role. But what is definitely added to this is the better defence from an elevated position. In the Middle Ages, there was a trend on the part of the rulers in Italy towards "incastellamento", i.e. the settlement of the population within fortified settlements. This was a win-win situation: the princes had better control over the population and at the same time the people were better protected from raids and attacks. There was no need to whip them into line - the balance of power was simply very unstable and times were turbulent. Although the Marches had been in the possession of the popes since the 12th century, the many noble families favoured by the Papal States fought amongst themselves. The fortified town centres were therefore more the result of an arms race than a joint defence measure against invaders.

Information about road cycling in the Marche region

Journey

Railway: From Munich (which is on the route for most German starting points), the train takes around 9.5 hours to Porto Recanati (10.5 hours with a bike), which is four kilometres north of our location, with at least two changes (Bologna and Senigallia or Ancona). Bicycles can be taken on reservation, for information and reservation call 030/2970. Tip: If you don't want to go through the complicated process of booking and reserving a bike, you can take it disassembled in a pannier or bike case free of charge.

Car: From Frankfurt am Main to the destination 1,160 kilometres away and back again, a toll of around 140 euros is due. However, the route runs almost entirely on motorways.

Best time to travel

The best time slots are from the beginning of May to the beginning of June and from September to October. As the tourist infrastructure is not as cycle-orientated as around Rimini, for example, only a few accommodations are open before May. Earlier in the year, the magnificent stage into the Monti Sibillini with its almost 1,500 metre high pass would also be difficult to calculate - there could be snow. In the peak summer season, the flat and hilly areas are too hot and too crowded.

Accommodation

Porto Potenza Picena: Natural Village Resort

The hotel, which has a workshop, parking spaces and a bike wash area, is a member of "Roadbike Holidays", a group of hotels that specialise in the needs of road cyclists. The resort itself consists of a plot of land between the main road SS16 and a railway line, densely built up with around 200 small wooden houses and beautifully planted with trees. A pedestrian tunnel leads to the private beach, a large pool and a restaurant are part of the resort. Half board with a rich buffet is recommended. However, due to the location between the two transport routes, they are audible. A chalet for two people costs from 400 euros for five nights, with half board from 600 euros. www.natural-village.it

Food & Drink

Of course there is wine in the Marche region, as well as cheese and olive oil of a pleasing quality. But two regional delicacies in particular caught our eye: The soft, spreadable Ciauscolo salami is an officially recognised speciality as a product with a protected geographical indication. The ping-pong ball-sized, meat-filled and deep-fried Ascolana olives are also a genuine branded product. During a stop in Potenza Picena (tours 2 and 3), we stumbled into the Salumeria Tre Torri (www.salumitretorri.it), one of six branches of the producer in the region, which is well stocked with award-winning salami, cheese and various other specialities. A real recommendation for souvenir shopping. #

Restaurant tips

Porto Potenza: Cipolla d'Oro

In the large country inn "Zur Goldenen Zwiebel", local and travelling meat lovers can indulge in a large selection of sometimes imaginatively prepared cuts of lamb, wild boar, beef and duck. Pasta and pizza are also on offer, but the meat specialities are the core business. Very good quality and large portions. Pasta and "secondo" quickly add up to 35 euros. Phone 0039/0733/676424 www.cipolladoro.it

Sirolo: Ristorante della Rosa

Fish and seafood are the theme of the restaurant, which is located away from the promenade near the beach in Sirolo (Tour 1). Here, the focus is more on enjoyment and food culture than on filling up quickly. A varied menu with various fish courses costs 60 euros including coffee and dessert. Phone 0039/331/4109480 www.ristorantedellarosa.it

Don't miss it!

Loreto: Basilica of the Holy House

A sight that doesn't need an address: the basilica crowns the small town of Loreto and cannot be overlooked. It is considered one of the most important Catholic pilgrimage destinations in the world because, according to tradition, the house from Nazareth in which the Virgin Mary was born is located inside. This house is said to have been brought to Loreto by angels from Nazareth in the 13th century. Even though the story may have been technically different, archaeologists have found evidence that the splendidly rebuilt stones of the foundation walls in the 15th century basilica actually come from this area and were presumably saved from the advancing Muslims by crusaders. Loreto's centre is also highly impressive for non-Catholics.

Cycling events

Granfondo 5 Mila Marche

The extreme route of the 5 Mila Marche, meaning 5,000 metres of altitude difference in the Marche region, covers the entire area of this report. In addition to this route of 274 kilometres and 5,300 metres in altitude, there are also shorter laps. The event is part of the Granfondo World Tour. The next start is from 19 to 21 September 2025. www.5milamarche.com The granfondomarche.it website also lists half a dozen other events in the area, from time trials to races on "strade bianche" (gravel roads).

Bike service

In Numana, twelve kilometres to the north of the site, the Conero by Bike Racing bikes. Example: Mid-range BMC carbon bikes cost 210 euros for five days, delivery is possible. www.conerobybike.it/en/ bike-rental

Info

letsmarche.it - Website of the tourism sector of the Marche region
www.italia.it/en/marche - Website of the Italian National Tourist Office (Italian or English).

Map

Car and leisure map "Marche, Ancona", 1:150,000, Freytag and Berndt, 2020; 12.90 euros.

Orientation

Around 100 kilometres south of the famous racing bike training area around Rimini lies Ancona, the northern corner of our destination, on the central Italian Adriatic coast. The Marche region borders Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany to the north, Lazio and Abruzzo to the south and Umbria to the west. The coast with its long, straight sandy beaches is used intensively by tourists, while the peaks of the Apennines in the interior, which are over 2,000 metres high, are rarely visited. The mostly mid-mountainous landscape in between is used intensively for agriculture and is sparsely forested.

Tour character

Three of the four tours start directly by the sea, starting from the "Natural Village Resort" near Porto Potenza Picena. You could just as easily choose a hotel in Porto Recanati to the north. These tours are mostly at altitudes of up to 300 metres and - wherever possible - on small and very small roads. The better developed roads in the valleys or near the coast tend to be busy or narrow. Flat stretches and passages suitable for larger groups are therefore rare. Inland, the roads quickly become quieter, but the tarmac is sometimes rough or damaged. We recommend high-volume tyres and mountain-ready gear ratios for the often steep climbs. The villages are mostly located on the peaks of the rounded mountains, so many roads run along ridges. The high mountainous terrain of the Monti Sibillini, where one of our tours leads, is quite different. In this sparsely populated area, some of the climbs (up to 1,500 metres above sea level) are long, but they are also very easy to ride on somewhat wider roads. The supply situation in these mountains is poor.

GPS data

You can find these and many other tours at touren.bike-magazin.de. TOUR readers and Premium subscribers can also access the GPS data via "my area" on tour-magazin.de.

Brand routes to follow

Tour 1 (purple): Mountain above the Adriatic - to Monte Conero

63 kilometres | 1,000 vertical metres | max. 16 % gradient

At 572 metres high, Monte Conero is not a giant, but it rises directly out of the Mediterranean and is just a stone's throw from the blue of the bathing bays. This makes it a great vantage point over the coast - at least if you look out from the viewing terrace of the Café Americano between the trees. Not quite half of the 63 kilometres lead directly behind the parcelled beaches. You have to be careful between the bathers, luckily the cars drive slowly there. From Numana onwards, the road climbs abruptly, interrupted by a few flat sections. The quietest, but persistently more than ten percent steep passage is the cul-de-sac to the church and the cafés near the summit, which ends at a car park at 474 metres above sea level. The summit, which is almost a hundred metres higher, is military terrain and the road to it is closed from an altitude of around 520 metres. After the descent, roads with great views, but sometimes busy at weekends, close the circle to Numana. On the way back, there is plenty of opportunity to coast along the coast road and enjoy a coffee with a sea view.

Tour 2 (green): On the trail of the Granfondo 5 Mila Marche

108 kilometres | 1,600 vertical metres | max. 10 % gradient

This loop largely corresponds to the middle section of the Granfondo 5 Mila Marche. It is obvious that it can easily be shortened at Montefano (by skipping the northern loop). However, the northern section is particularly scenic, well-paved and attractive. The open landscape offers little protection from the sun, but the climbs are much more moderate than on Tour 3, for example. The city centre of Macerata is a little hectic, which is why we move the most tranquil rest stop to a café in Montecassiano. The last major town on the route, Recanati, shines once again with its inviting old town centre. And because it's all downhill from there, another stop is certainly not a mistake; the Granfondo route scouts have certainly done a good job.
Resting tip: Montecassiano (Km 42.8), Pasticceria-Bar Carnevali, Via Borgo Garibaldi 35.

Tour 3 (red): Sunday tour of the locals

106 kilometres | 1,500 vertical metres | max. 15 % gradient

Early on Sunday morning, before the day trippers set off, local cyclists dominate the flat coastal road. It is a "strada statale" (state road), the equivalent of a German motorway, and therefore not always easy to cycle on. For the climb behind Civitanova, we opted for quiet but sometimes bumpy roads over the hills - there are many alternatives due to the dense road network. Montegiorgio, a good 400 metres above sea level, offers plenty of opportunities for a coffee or a slice of pizza before rolling downhill mainly on ridges via Mogliano and Petriolo to a large industrial estate on the main road. However, this is quickly crossed and disappears into the valley with a counter-climb. Several hills later, a shortcut leads back to the sea.
Resting tip: Montegiorgio (at km 44.2 do not turn left, but follow the main road 200 metres uphill), Il Grottino de lu Papa, Via Ospedale Diotallevi 5, telephone 0039/3311555170.

Tour 4 (blue): Silent pleasure in the Monti Sibillini

96 kilometres | 2,000 vertical metres | max. 12 % gradient

On tours 1 to 3, the Monti Sibillini were just a blue-grey, alpine silhouette on the horizon; now they are the destination. A toll-free road leads to the starting point in Tolentino in just under an hour's drive. We started at a video-monitored car park (40 cents/hour) on the western edge of the old town. Tolentino is also directly connected to the coast (Civitanova Marche) by train. After about ten kilometres, we leave the main valley and gradually follow a quiet, green side road deeper and deeper into the mountains. The first highlight is the wide road to the Fiastra reservoir, which is almost car-free in the low season and where most of the few tourists reach their destination for the day. We climb up to the left on a still good road to reach the Valico di Santa Maria Maddalena pass (1,455 metres), a small ski area. From there, it's a 14 kilometre descent to Sarnano. The following few kilometres on the state road are undramatic, after which the route winds its way back to Tolentino with a number of counter-climbs. A great addition to the rest of the route - with few places to stop for refreshments in the upper section. However, we had a very good meal in Bolognola, about 400 metres below the top of the pass.

Resting tip: Bolognola (Km 43.8), Bar Ma & Pa, Piazza Giacomo Leopardi 17, phone 0039/3333374488.In the Marche, as in many regions of Italy, the medieval villages are perched on the hills. This inevitably forces cyclists to do some climbing | Photo: Jörg Spaniol