Coastal adventure: Stage trip in Liguria
Text: Marlene Kazic
It was our first time. The first time with the Nightjet and our Canyon gravel bikes in our luggage. After a cosy night on the train, we wake up in Italy. Strengthened by breakfast and with the help of some friendly fellow travellers, all the individual parts are removed from the train and we reassemble the bikes at the station in Genoa.
The sun is already shining - the next coffee is just a few pedal strokes away. We slowly set off. The traffic from the harbour city of Genoa is both slow and hectic. Fortunately, there are always cycle paths, otherwise the route runs along a busy Strada Statale. It almost seems as if the route out of Genoa is there to leave the stress and hectic pace of everyday life behind. The further we get away from Genoa, the quieter it becomes. The more relaxed our shoulders become. Then it's there, the first glimpse of the sea - we arrive.
Along the Ligurian coast
The condition of the cycle paths in Liguria also improves the further you cycle from Genoa. Along the coast, you cycle from one picturesque village to the next. The facades glow in bright orange, yellow and red colours. The clinking of cups can be heard from the coffee houses. Some coastal towns are particularly inviting, for example Arenzano, Noli, Finale Ligure and Albenga. There is always stop-and-go traffic between Finale Ligure and Albenga, and there is no view of the sea. If there is no cycle path, there are usually wide hard shoulders that can be used. The climbs between Genoa and Cervo are gentle, between three and seven per cent steep. Each one is rewarded with a fantastic view, either of the glittering sea or the next colourful coastal town.
We stop for a last coffee in Albenga. After around 110 kilometres, we arrive in Cervo, which towers imposingly on a hillside above the sea. We reach our accommodation, the Bed&Breakfast Palazzo Duca. All the effort is forgotten as we look out over the sea from our small but cosy room. We receive a very warm welcome and are allowed to leave our bikes behind a closed terrace overnight. We follow our noses and stop off at the Hostaria-Pizzeria A Veggia Baracca. We keep quiet not just because we're tired, but because the pizza is delicious. We round off the first day with an excellent homemade tiramisu.
On the trail of Milan-San Remo
The second day in Liguria couldn't start any better than with a hearty breakfast on the terrace of the Palazzo Duca. Today it's Ciao Italia and Bonjour France!
It takes a few pedal strokes to warm up. The air is still fresh in the morning and arm warmers and leg warmers prove to be welcome companions. By the time we reach Capo Berta, our bodies are up to operating temperature. Once again, there are breathtaking views of the Ligurian coast. Between Imperia and San Remo there is a superbly developed cycle path.
If you decide to cycle this section, you should definitely make a stop in Cipressa. This is the famous climb that is part of the Milan-San Remo race: a gentle, quiet ascent between olive groves, accompanied by many impressive views of the sea. The town of Cipressa itself is small and quiet, and the best place to stop for refreshments is the Café Buona Vita. After our little excursion, we continue towards France. We decide to stop for a bite to eat in Ventimiglia. After a climb over cobblestones, we reach the Porta Nizza restaurant. With a view of palm trees and the azure blue sea, we fortify ourselves with pasta and bruschetta.
Side trip to France
We are at the gateway to France. It's a special feeling to cross a border by bike. It's straightforward and we're already pedalling on French tarmac and ride straight into Menton. The pretty coastal town is our final destination, but we want to get to Èze first. We leave Menton behind us and head straight for the La Turbie climb. It's about twelve kilometres uphill with an average gradient of four to five per cent.
Once you have found your rhythm for La Turbie, you can enjoy it and the numerous views, not least over Monaco. There is quite a bit of traffic. Èze is not particularly large, but its location, narrow alleyways and picturesque stone houses make it a delight. From here, we can also see the sea again and again. To be honest, it is rather impractical to take your bike with you, as the whole town is criss-crossed by steps. There are lots of small shops and restaurants in the town centre - but also a few tourists and, above all, larger tour groups. We are glad to have explored the town, but are also pleased to have escaped the hustle and bustle and make our way back to Menton. It's finally downhill!
When we arrive in Menton, we are quickly disappointed: the boulangeries are already closed. So the croissant will have to wait until tomorrow. We check into our hotel, the Hôtel de Londres, and spend an evening exploring the enchanting Menton - we experience the mixture of Italian and French influences. Finally, we stop off at the Al Vecchio Forno pizzeria and end the day with a crêpe at the Fleur de Sel crêperie.
From café to cappuccino
The visit to France was a brief pleasure and so we return to bella Italia on our third stage. But not without breakfast in a boulangerie. We soon cross the border again and fortify ourselves with a coffee in Ospedaletti. On the third stage, we tackle another famous climb, this time up to Poggio. The route is a little more difficult to find from the cycle path, so it is better to switch to the Strada Statale 1 here. The ascent is moderate, so you can enjoy the view of the sea and the surrounding mountains to the full as you climb steadily.
Before we head to Albenga, we take a detour into the hinterland. It's a flat ride, but the roads get bumpier the further we get from the coast. Dolcedo seems very sleepy to us, although this may be due to the fact that we are travelling in the low season. It is definitely worth exploring the alleyways and visiting the old bridge. On the way back to Albenga, we become one with the tarmac. Our goal: a hot shower and a plate of pasta. We pause once again at Capo Berta and Capo Mimosa - the sea glistens turquoise blue and we are grateful that our trained muscles are carrying us up the climbs.
Lively coastal towns
In contrast to the smaller towns along the route, Albenga is very lively. The town's narrow alleyways are home to some attractive pubs and boutiques. Looking up, we come across a cliché: laundry hanging on lines across the alleyways, swaying in the breeze and providing tourists with motifs for typical holiday photos. We finish our stage at Ristorante Le Anfore. Everything is just right here: the flavour, the ambience, the portions and the price. Last but not least, we get an ice cream from the Gelateria Cioccogelato - a wonderful sweet finish!
Today we are travelling into the hinterland without luggage. We have a long tour planned, so the first thing to do is have a hearty breakfast: The Café Ex Atelier is a great place to do this. We set off from Albenga on the SS453 towards Pieve di Teco. The route continues to climb gently, and the area becomes quieter and more deserted the further into the valley we go. Mountain villages can be seen in the distance to the left and right. It is only when you reach Pieve di Teco that things become more lively again. There are several cafés lined up under the arcades and we decide to stop for a bite to eat. It's definitely worth exploring the town and, if necessary, picking up some refreshments for the onward journey.
Idyll between olive groves
We now head up towards Borghetto and Aquila d'Arroscia. The ascent to Gazzo has an average gradient of around 6.5 per cent. The area is incredibly idyllic. We are the only ones cycling between the olive groves. Apart from our own breathing, we are accompanied only by the ringing of church bells from the distant mountain villages. We have a relatively clear view, often as far as the sea. The tarmac on this stretch is in mediocre condition. After Pieve di Teco you can no longer buy food and drink, so it is necessary to take plenty of snacks and water with you.
The town of Aquila is described in the travel guides as extraordinary. For us, the journey is the destination. The journey to Aquila is spectacular and unique. The town itself is deserted. Exploring the area by bike is a great experience - travelling the route by car seems pointless to us. In Aquila, we put on our arm warmers and gillet and set off on a rapid descent to Ranzo. The beautiful landscape rushes past us - the adrenalin kicks in. We round off the evening with a good portion of pasta.
Snow-covered peaks in view
The exciting day in the hinterland is followed by a break day due to the weather. The next morning we have another long tour into the hinterland, crossing the border into Piedmont. We are therefore grateful for the hearty breakfast at the B&B and set off early. From Toirano we begin the quiet ascent to Castelvecchio di Roca Barbena. We pass through some picturesque villages, such as Balestrino. We roll down to Zuccharello, fortify ourselves with a coffee and then cycle back up the same hairpin bends.
Now begins the long, gentle ascent to le Volte - the wind turbines. There is hardly any traffic, partly because there are no more villages here. There is a derelict pub at the highest point of the pass. We don't see any other cyclists for miles around. We pause to enjoy the incredible distant view of snow-covered peaks. We then head downhill to Garessio. From a distance, the town seems to have fallen into disrepair. Hungry, we try our luck - and are overjoyed that the Agribar-Trattoria del Duduro is open. We are served a deliciously fresh panini with prosciutto and local cheese. Just what we need before continuing our journey. Because now it's time to climb the Colle di Quazzo. Over a distance of 6.5 kilometres, you cover 650 metres in altitude here. Your legs are burning - the climb is tough.
Uphill at a steady pace
This is followed by the descent to Calizzano, where caution is advised as the tarmac is often in poor condition. From Calizzano, the route heads straight uphill again to Melogno. It is a long but gentle climb, most of which is in the forest. Here, too, the condition of the road requires caution. Surrounded by trees, we enjoy the fresh air and relax despite the uphill ride.
After a 15 kilometre descent, we reach Finale Ligure again. The route offers marvellous views, but is teeming with cars. After the long tour, it's time to focus all our attention once again. We cycle to Pietra Ligure for a good portion of pasta before heading back to Giustenice, reenergised.
Today it's time to say goodbye. But we can't really let go of Bella Italia just yet, so take it easy. The road between Pietra Ligure and Finale Ligure is beautiful, you can literally smell the sea. We stop for a cappuccino in Finale and treat ourselves to a morning ice cream at Gelateria La Sosta.
Back towards Genoa
We cycle towards Genoa on the familiar cycle path from the outward journey. From Finale to Noli, the road winds along the cliffs. We decide to make another stop in Noli. The town is very lively, there are some nice cafés and the local beach invites you to linger.
From Corgoleto to Arenzano, we happily switch to the cycle path. We enjoy the last views of the sea and take the opportunity in Arenzano to stop for a bite to eat and experience the flair of the Riviera. The cycle paths are very bumpy in places, but lead all the way to the Centro Storico. Once there, we stroll through the photogenic alleyways on our bikes. In Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, we take a break at the Pasticceria Douce. We move on from cappuccino to Aperol and tiramisu. I wonder if we will get Italian citizenship yet?
We review the impressions of the past few days. It was an unforgettable journey and it feels good to have explored it all by bike. It's a way of travelling that allows you to shift down a gear. It allows you to take in your surroundings with all your senses. Despite the fact that transporting our own luggage means putting in a bit more effort, we are incredibly recharged and refreshed at the end of the journey. We spend the whole afternoon in the café before setting off to dismantle our bikes for the journey home. And long before we get on the train, we start planning our next journey again.
Travel Info Liguria
Journey
By train
There are daily connections e.g. from Frankfurt (11 hours), Stuttgart and Munich or, for example, with the ÖBB Nightjet from Vienna in around 14 hours. You should always enquire about the possibilities and costs of taking bicycles with you in good time before travelling, as there is a continuous railway line from Genoa to the Ligurian coast as far as San Remo. There are connections several times a day and bicycles may be taken on board.
By car
From Munich around 630 kilometres and 7:30 hours driving time, from Vienna via the A2 in around 9:30 hours.
Best time to travel
The best time to visit the Ligurian coast is from April to September. For active holidays, it is advisable to avoid the months of July and August due to the heat, especially as this is also the main season for summer tourists. In spring, temperatures reach around 20 degrees. Liguria scores highly due to its classic Mediterranean climate with many mild hours of sunshine. The main rainy season is in October and November. The summer tends to be dry, and if there is any rainfall, it comes in the form of heavy showers. Continuous rain is rarer.
Worth seeing
Noli scores with its inviting local beach and the winding historic centre with a number of bars and restaurants. The city walls of Noli are among the best-preserved medieval fortifications on the Italian Riviera. They enclose the old town centre and extend all the way up to Monte Ursino Castle.
Albenga is often referred to as the city of a hundred towers. The medieval old town is very well preserved. Visitors can still marvel at some Roman remains (streets, walls, foundations).
In Finale Ligure Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, which is located directly by the sea, is particularly worth a visit. You can get a taste for the Italian "dolce far niente" in the numerous inviting cafés. The city is also known for its mountain bike trails.
And of course, the Ligurian Riviera has a special significance for road cycling: the route section is extremely popular as part of the Milan-San Remo cycling monument. Highlights include the two climbs La Cipressa and the Poggio di San Remo. Between San Lorenzo al Mare, Imperia, Sanremo and Ospedaletti, there is a continuous cycle path of around 30 kilometres along the coast. It runs along a former railway line and is one of the most beautiful coastal cycle paths in Europe thanks to the views.
Local & Accommodation
Cervo
Bed and Breakfast Palazzo Duca
www.palazzodelducacervo.com/
Pizzeria/Hostaria A Veggia Baracca
Via Circonvallazione di Ponente 1,
18010 Cervo, Imperia
Cipressa
Café Buona Vita Cipressa
Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini 2,
18017 Cipressa, Imperia
www.cipressa.com
Ventimiglia
Ristorante Pizzeria Portanizza
www.portanizza.com
Menton
Hôtel des Londres
www.hotel-de-londres.com
Pizzeria Al Vecchio Forno
https://cinque-valli.com/listing/al-vecchio-forno/
Crêperie Fleur de Sel
2 Rue du Vieux Collège, 06500 Menton
Albenga
Airbnb Il Maestrale
Café Ex Atelier
Via Enrico D'Aste 10, 17031 Albenga
Finale Ligure
Pasticceria Bar Caffetteria Caviglia
Via XXV Aprile, 5/B, 17047 Vado Ligure
Panetteria Pippo
Via Roma, 13, 17024 Finale Ligure
Gelateria La Sosta
www.alsosta.it
Giustenice
L'Acacia B&B
www.bbacaciagiustenice.it
Ristorante Capalla
Via Besso, 4, 17027 Giustenice
Genoa
Pasticceria Douce
www.douce.it
Luggage storage Via Balbi
www.stowyourbags.com
Liguria-Info
Tourism Ligurian Riviera
https://www.visitligurianriviera.it/de/
Stage tour Liguria - Overview
Liguria is a north-western region of Italy, bordering Tuscany and Emilia Romagna to the east and France to the west. The Apennines and the Alps separate the region from Piedmont. The western Riviera stretches between Genoa and Ventimiglia. The eastern Riviera runs from Genoa to La Spezia and is best known for the Cinque Terre region. In total, Liguria offers more than 300 kilometres of coastline.
The area is particularly attractive for lovers of outdoor activities due to the combination of sea and mountains. The highest mountain is Monte Saccarello at 2,201 metres. The region is home to a national park and numerous regional parks and nature reserves. Connoisseurs of Italian cuisine will not miss out either - Liguria is particularly famous for pesto genovese and focaccia.
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Stage 1 | Genoa - Cervo | 109 km, 785 metres altitude
Stage 2 | Cervo - Èze - Menton | 105 km, 1,389 metres in altitude
Stage 3 | Menton - Poggio - Dolcedo - Albenga | 111 km, 950 metres altitude
Stage 4 | Albenga - Pieve di Teco - Aquila di Arroscia - Albenga | 72 km, 883 metres altitude
Stage 5 | Albenga - Giustenice | 34 km, 305 metres altitude
Stage 6 | Giustenice - Balestrino - Castelvecchio di Roca Barbena - Zuccharello - Colle di Quazzo - Calizzano - Finale Ligure - Giustenice | 114 km, 2,700 metres altitude
Stage 7 | Giustenice - Genoa | 81 km, 442 metres altitude
