Azure blue sea, mild climate and more than 300 days of sunshine a year: the Côte d'Azur has always been a destination of longing. Cyclists also appreciate the varied landscape. Flat coastal roads, gently undulating hills and high Alpine passes are all within the radius of a one-day tour. The organisers of the Tour de France could not have chosen a better stage to replace the traditional finale in Paris. Thank you, Olympic Games!
Nice is also inextricably linked to cycling. Since 1933, the city has been the destination of the Paris-Nice stage race, initially under the name "Six Jours de la Route". And even more often, since 1906, Nice has been a stopover for the Tour de France countless times. Legendary stages were started there, for example the almost 350-kilometre ride to Grenoble in the 1920s; or from Nice to Briançon, over a distance of 275 kilometres. Back in 1922, the riders had to tackle the Col d'Allos, Col de Vars and the infamous Col d'Izoard, without gears and on the worst gravel roads.
From the Côte d'Azur to the Cime de la Bonette
The real highlight came in 1962, when the first direct climb from the Côte d'Azur to the Cime de la Bonette, whose altitude of 2,802 metres also corresponds to the altitude metres to be covered from the start on the coast. In one go, mind you! Is it coincidence or calculation that the Cime 2024, after many years of abstinence, is playing a role again? This time as a prelude to the stage on the penultimate day of the Tour in the Maritime Alps and the final time trial on the coast. The time trial in general! No exhibition race this time, with the yellow jersey enjoying a glass of bubbly at the start. A look back to 1989 shows just how close this final can be, when the US American Greg LeMond snatched victory by eight seconds from the Frenchman Laurent Fignon, who had been in the lead until then.
Escape into the hinterland
Nevertheless, you may ask yourself whether it is a good idea to travel to the Côte d'Azur in high season. A stretch of coast that is already operating at the limits of its tourist capacity in July, even without the Tour finale. But anyone who has ever been there knows that the lion's share of the hustle and bustle takes place on a very narrow coastal strip. As soon as you pedal towards the hinterland, things become noticeably quieter after just a few kilometres. With the exception of large valleys such as the Var, where the traffic density remains quite high.
There is a cycle path next to the river, but unfortunately it ends 20 kilometres after the coast, at the Pont Charles Albert near Saint-Martin-du-Var. If you want to take the shortest route deeper into the higher Maritime Alps, for example to the mountain arrival at the Col de la Couillole, you have to cover many kilometres on the main road in the Tinée valley. The route to the Col de la Bonette also continues through this valley. Fortunately, what cyclists have left to do is escape to the top. A glance at the map shows that there is hardly anywhere else in the Alps where the network of mountain roads and small roads is so densely woven. The further you zoom in, the more the maze of bends becomes intertwined. So you can almost always find an alternative route. We present six routes through the Maritime Alps in detail, on which you can follow the tracks of the tour.
Right in the middle
The best places for the Nice stages
Every cycling fan should experience a Tour de France stage at least once. Climbs on mountain stages are ideal for a visit, because the peloton flies past less quickly and, in addition, easily manageable serpentines prolong the experience. The basic rule is to arrive at the desired location as early as possible and ideally by bike! Don't forget food and sun protection! The closer the caravan gets, the more difficult it is to change locations.
20th stage | 20 July
- Col de Braus: A perfect spot is the tight group of switchbacks on the Col de Braus, above Saint-Laurent (28 kilometres from Nice). At this early stage, the race is probably not really open yet, and you're more likely to see a long peloton than exciting attacks by individual riders. But who knows?
- Col de Turini: There are a few hairpin bends in the upper part of the climb, some of which are in the forest and spread out. Nevertheless, there is a good chance of experiencing an exciting race situation. Shortest approach from Nice via L'Èscarène, Lucéram and Peïra-Cava to the top of the Turini Pass (47 kilometres).
- Col Saint-Martin: Above Saint-Martin-Vésubie is a double serpentine with a relatively clear view of the valley. However, the journey from Nice is quite long without a car transfer (60 kilometres). It is a similar distance to the final climb at the Col de la Couillole. In addition, the access road to the valley town of Saint-Sauveur-sur-Tinée is likely to be chaotic on race day. An alternative would be to cycle to the pass on the west side via Beuil. Then roll downhill on the east side for a few kilometres to Roubion, where a few clear hairpin bends provide a good view.
21st stage | 21 July
On the day of the individual time trial, you can expect the usual traffic chaos on the coast to be even worse. The best way to get a place on the route is to cycle along a side road in the hinterland towards Col d'Èze and La Turbie. For example, via Nice, La Trinité and the Route de Laghet. But the (main) Moyenne Corniche road could also work. Or you can plunge into the hustle and bustle around the finish in Nice on foot. Good nerves are needed on this day anyway, no matter which place you choose.
Six tours in the hinterland of Nice
The Côte d'Azur has more than earned its name, as the Mediterranean Sea usually glistens in a particularly intense blue colour. From east to west, the Côte begins at the Italian-French border with the town of Menton. In principle, this is where the Italian Riviera merges into the Côte d'Azur. The world-famous coastal resorts of Monaco, Nice, Antibes, Cannes, Fréjus and Saint-Tropez follow like a string of pearls. Shortly after the windsurfing Mecca of Hyéres, the Côte d'Azur ends at the city of Toulon. The unique combination of sea and mountains is what makes the region so attractive - and not just for cyclists. France's top holiday region should actually be avoided during the summer holidays - the Tour finale may be the exception due to its uniqueness. And racing cyclists can breathe a sigh of relief: there is usually noticeably less traffic in the mountains, often just a few kilometres from the coast.
Recommended locations: Even though Nice is a full-blown city with around 350,000 inhabitants, the "beautiful city" - nicknamed La Bella - has a very special charm, especially the historic old town with its narrow streets. Life is a little more tranquil in the region around Vence, around 15 kilometres off the coast, between Nice and Grasse.
Tour 1: Prelude at the Turini
- 113 kilometres
- 2,600 metres altitude
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The drive over the Col de Turini is a must in the Maritime Alps. Until 2009, the region's most famous pass was a stage in the Monte Carlo Rally, on the infamous "Night of the Long Knives" section. Back then it was said: "The Monte is won on the Turini." And who knows, maybe that will also apply to the 2024 Tour de France, with the Turini appearing in the profile around halfway through the penultimate stage. This is followed by the Col Saint-Martin and the mountain finish at the Col de la Couillole. As with almost all passes near the sea, the summit of the Turini at 1,604 metres sounds quite unspectacular. It's easy to forget that this figure also refers to the metres in altitude to be covered - after all, we start at sea level. And suddenly the "small" Col de Turini is on a par with passes such as Susten or Grimsel in the Swiss Alps.
The lap from Nice to the top of the Turini Pass corresponds to the 20th Tour de France stage, but is 133 kilometres long and also adds around 2,000 metres in altitude. At least the pros are given 14 kilometres to warm up their muscles before reaching the mountain village of L'Escarène, as the road climbs moderately at the start. There, however, it picks up noticeably to the 1,002 metre high Col de Braus. The ascent is peppered with hairpin bends that never get boring. Neither does the medieval village of Sospel, which invites you to stop for a café after the descent. Fuelled by caffeine, you quickly regain your rhythm and can tackle the longest climb of the day. The professionals are not granted a coffee break, on the contrary, they are likely to sharpen their knives over the next 24 kilometres, as the game for the stage win begins. The advantage for amateur cyclists: you can take your time on the Turini and enjoy one of the most beautiful climbs in the Maritime Alps with fantastic bends and views.
If you are still fit at the top of the pass, you should definitely take a loop along the L'Authion mountain road, which starts there. It reaches its culmination point at 2,026 metres and rewards you with a panoramic view as far as the sea. Another access road leads to Turini from the south, which we now use to leave the tour stage. This is followed by a wonderful section on a ridge up to the former military base of Peïra-Cava, which towers over the valley like an eagle's nest. Only there does the long descent via Lucéram and L'Escarène back to Nice begin.
Tour 2: Coastal classics
- 81 kilometres
- 1,900 metres altitude
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Anyone who has not seen the stretch of coast between Nice and Monaco with their own eyes cannot imagine the scenario. Where the Alps suddenly rise out of the Mediterranean, there is in fact no space. Rien, zero! And yet daring roads, railway lines, tiny mountain villages and millionaires' villas cling to this steep slope. Madness and paradise at the same time. This amphitheatre, known as the Grande Corniche, is where the Tour de France will be decided this year. And in an individual time trial that is likely to go down in history. No more tactical games, on the last day the cards have to be laid on the table.
Our route takes in numerous sections and climbs that have already made history in famous cycling races. From Paris-Nice to the Tour de France. For example the Col d'Èze. Just 507 metres high, and yet a feared arbiter of victory or defeat. Or the Col de la Madone, which at least scratches the 1,000 metre mark. On this mountain in the hinterland of Monaco, there is a good chance of meeting one or even several professionals during training on many days of the year. Or rather, to be overtaken. Quite a few pros live on the Côte d'Azur and use the climb as a yardstick for their form. The Madone is so famous that the US brand Trek has named a racing bike model after it. Anyone who follows Strava will know that Tadej Pogačar has held the fastest time between Menton and the top of the pass since 2023. But the ascent "from behind" on the Madone is also appealing. Then you can really enjoy the descent to the coast. And, more importantly, you end up in Beausoleil, where the individual time trial to Nice starts on 21 July.
If you want to follow the pros, swap the western arms of our lying eight and cycle along the coast first. From La Turbie, cycle clockwise as planned over the Col de la Madone to Beausoleil. The finale: eight kilometres up to La Turbie with an average gradient of 5.6 per cent. This is followed by four kilometres of intermediate descent at full throttle to the foot of the Col d'Èze. The ramp of decision: 1.6 kilometres of maximum heart rate on a road with a gradient of up to 10.4 percent to the top of the pass. Two kilometres of flat speed until the descent finally begins. We amateur cyclists enjoy the roll-out into Nice, the pros will give it their all until the finish line on the Promenade des Anglais. I wonder what the winner will be?
Tour 3: Pass of decision
- 118 kilometres
- 3,700 metres altitude
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Even after more than a hundred years, the Tour de France still knows how to surprise with new routes. On the penultimate stage on 20 July, the Col de la Couillole celebrates its premiere, at least as a mountain finish. Not a cul-de-sac, but a pass. This is a recurring feature of the Tour, the most famous examples being the Col du Tourmalet and the Galibier. However, the Couillole is far removed from their popularity. Its modest statistics are: ridden twice in the Tour de France (1973, 1975) and twice in Paris-Nice (2017, 2023).
Even those travelling the Route des Grandes Alpes from Lake Geneva to Menton will hardly notice the Couillole. Coming from Valberg, it is just 225 metres in altitude to the top of the pass. The situation is different on the eastern ramp. The pass shows its teeth where the professionals will fight it out in the finale: 1,170 metres in altitude spread over 15.7 kilometres with an average gradient of 7.1 per cent. That hurts, especially considering the profile of the stage with around 4,500 metres of elevation gain. But our loop from Saint-Martin-Vésubie is also a serious climb. Of course, you can also ride it from Saint-Sauveur-sur-Tinée, which is around 70 kilometres and 2,000 metres in altitude. But the village of Saint-Martin is the nicer starting point - and also makes a great base camp for a few days in the mountains.
From the start, the route heads straight up to the Col Saint-Martin, which is incorrectly labelled Col de la Colmiane in the Tour profile; La Colmiane is simply the name of the ski resort at the top of the pass. After descending into the Tinée valley, the Col de la Couillole is already on the agenda, including a virtual finish. The village of Beuil is sandwiched between Couillole and the next ski station, Valberg. In Beuil, the descent continues through the Gorges du Cians, a spectacular section of the route through numerous tunnels and layers of red rock. The following crossing of the Col de la Sinne, which leads back into the Tinée valley, is just as adventurous.
The lonely crest section from the hamlet of Pierlas is covered in poor tarmac. It's hard to motivate yourself again for the final climb to the Col Saint-Martin. But at least the moderate and even gradient gives you the chance to find your rhythm. And at the end, you can feel as exhausted as the pros on the Tour. That's something too.
Tour 4: Gorges and balconies
- 119 kilometres
- 1,400 metres altitude
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The Maritime Alps in the hinterland of Nice have a charm all of their own. The mountains appear dried out and rugged, raging rivers have carved deep gorges into the rock, and signs at every corner point to "Gorges", the French word for gorges. Almost every pass journey leads through such narrow passages in the lower part, often on daring routes that cling to rock faces and lead through rough tunnels. All this makes tours in the Maritime Alps so varied.
Tour 4 is characterised by the Var and Vésubie rivers. As well as starting in Vence, you can also begin the tour in Nice on the Promenade des Anglais or in Cagnes-sur-Mer near the airport. Although the Var Valley is densely populated and busy, there are also some charming side routes. For example, between Vence and Saint-Martin-du-Var, where you ride into the mountains as if on a balcony above the river. At the Pont Charles-Albert, you change sides of the valley into the Gorge de la Vésubie; unfortunately, there is inevitably a lot of traffic on this section. Climbing tip: In Saint-Jean-de-la-Rivière, the serpentines to the pilgrimage site of La Madone d'Utelle branch off to the left: 15.3 kilometres and 894 metres in altitude.
A stage of Paris-Nice once ended at this fantastic viewpoint at an altitude of 1,174 metres. However, we turn sharp right in the valley towards Levens. The breathtaking little road offers dizzying views down into the gorge for kilometres. And there are always like-minded people on the road, as this is one of the Nice locals' favourite routes. And so it continues all the way to the Promenade des Anglais: mountain village after mountain village, hairpin bend after hairpin bend, view after view. And in every village, a bar invites you to take a coffee break. Even 119 kilometres fly by.
Tour 5: Lonely hinterland
- 122 kilometres
- 2,300 metres altitude
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Off the beaten track, where the dog is buried - everyone knows these sayings. This is exactly what we experience on this tour, just thirty or forty kilometres from the lively Côte d'Azur. In the mountains west of the Var valley and north of Grasse, there are dozens of small passes that hardly anyone has heard of. Roads that seem to lead to nowhere. Vultures circling overhead. Villages that make you wonder: why here? For this tour, you should bring a bit of a sense of adventure - and spare inner tubes. Because as soon as the route climbs into the mountains at Saint-Martin-du-Var, the velvet carpet is over.
The tarmac is rough and often brittle from the winter frost. The bumpy road reaches a climax - literally - at the 1,550 metre high Mont Vial, which tempts extremists to take a detour just before the village of Toudon. A rough tarmac road narrow as a towel leads up to the antenna-armoured summit, which could be the little brother of Mont Ventoux. The reward is magnificent: heading south, mountain range follows mountain range, like petrified waves that run out into the sea glistening in the sun on the horizon. Tranquillity lies over the landscape. The next towns are Vescous and Roquestéron, both located in the beautiful L'Estéron valley, where gravel banks and bathing spots invite you to cool off. But you shouldn't stretch your legs for too long, because the next climbs are already waiting: Col des Ferres, Bouyon, Bézaudun-les-Alpes, up and down in one tour. This is followed by Coursegoules, another beautiful mountain village at the foot of the Cime du Cheiron. At almost 1,800 metres, this striking ridge is the highest peak far and wide. There is even a respectable ski resort on its northern side. And the valley town of Gréolières-les-Neiges is one of the local cyclists' favourite mountain trials. The Col de Vence of the same name, which often appears on the Paris-Nice route map, now separates us from the finish in Vence, but then from the south. However, its northern side, with only a few metres in altitude, is comparatively harmless.
Tour 6: Picturesque mountain villages
- 94 kilometres
- 1,700 metres altitude
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First of all: if you find this route too strenuous, it can be shortened in several places. The ideal starting point is the picture-book village of Vence, which is perched on a rock not far from the coast. In recent decades, Vence has developed into a place of longing, where many artists and wealthy celebrities have settled. A stroll through the historic alleyways is fun, and you can enjoy a coffee in one of the picturesque squares. The road to the Col de Vence, one of the most popular passes in the region, starts right on the outskirts of the town. From the early hours of the morning, you will meet large groups of racing cyclists training here before the heat of the day sets in. The combination of a pleasant climb and coastal panorama promises pure enjoyment. And so the 645 metres in altitude are cranked off in no time.
The top of the pass leads to a karstic high plateau, where you can enjoy a relatively relaxed ride to the foot of the Cheiron mountain range. A few kilometres before reaching the village of Gréolières, the first shortcut branches off to the left: Towards Gorges du Loup and then right up to Gourdon, where you rejoin our original route. If you want to go the full distance, continue to Gréolières. There you can take a detour to the Gréolières-les-Neiges ski resort (Tour 5), or simply follow the Loup upstream towards Andon until it joins the D 5. This climbs again to a small high plateau, and soon you turn left over the Col de l'Êcre to Gourdon. You should cycle there - possibly pushing if there are too many visitors - to the viewpoint, one of the most beautiful in the region.
It is only there that you realise how Gourdon, like an eagle's nest, sits on a rocky outcrop. You then hurtle down into the Loup gorge on the best tarmac and drive back to Vence via Saint-Paul (D 6 and D 7) or a little shorter via Tourrettes-sur-Loup.
Info about Nice and the Maritime Alps
Journey
Railway
Train connections to Nice usually run via Paris. When changing trains in the capital, you have to change stations. If you want to take your bike with you unpacked, you must choose trains with appropriate compartments or luggage carriages. If you are travelling across the border, you will need to purchase an international bike ticket (including a parking space reservation). On French trains it is always possible to take a dismantled bike in a bike bag free of charge and without a reservation! Information at www.bahn.de
Bus
Flixbuses travel to Nice from all major German cities. Depending on where you start in Germany, you may not have to change buses at all or at most twice. If you book in good time, you can get tickets from 60 euros (one way), in some cases even cheaper; the upper limit is around 100 euros. A bicycle must be booked separately as additional luggage (5.50 euros) and should be packed in a bag. Information at www.flixbus.de
Car
It is just under 1,000 kilometres from Frankfurt/Main to Nice. The fastest/best route is via Karlsruhe, Basel, Milan and Genoa. The tolls add up to around 110 euros there and back.
Flight
Eurowings, ITA, Austrian, Lufthansa and Condor, among others, fly from Germany to Nice. Depending on the airline, bike transport costs between 100 and 160 euros for a return flight.
Best time to travel
On the Côte d'Azur, at least along the coast, you can cycle all year round. Even in the height of winter, it is mild there on many days. As soon as you head into the Maritime Alps, the radius of action is limited depending on the altitude. Sure, the roads are usually always clear. But the temperatures there can be really wintry. For example, there are serious ski resorts in Gréolières or Valberg, just 50 kilometres from the coast. Spring arrives with a vengeance from March. Early summer and, even better, the eternally long autumn are ideal for racing bike tours. Traffic is also noticeably lighter in the early and late season. In July and August, however, the Côte d'Azur turns into a fairground in many places.
Food & Drink
Mediterranean cuisine is rightly famous and popular all over the world. Common ingredients in these light dishes are olive oil, garlic, lots of vegetables and typical herbs such as basil, oregano and thyme. One example is the Salade Niçoise, which is said to have been invented in Nice. Tomatoes, beans, peppers and onions are arranged on a platter, garnished with tuna, anchovies and hard-boiled eggs, decorated with a few lettuce leaves. An ideal snack on hot days. On the regional menus you will almost always find dishes such as bouillabaisse (fish soup), ratatouille, various quiches and tarts, as well as countless variations of sandwiches.
Not to forget: so close to the sea, fish and seafood naturally play an important role in the cuisine. This becomes more than clear during a stroll through the fish market in Nice, which opens Tuesday to Sunday on Place Saint-François, north of the old town. And to be honest, you don't need much more than a baguette, cheese and a bottle of red wine for a sunset picnic on the beach.
Accommodation
Nice
The Nice Côte d'Azur Tourist Office lists a number of hotels that are labelled "Accueil Vélo". Nevertheless, it is advisable to ask for secure storage facilities for your bike when booking.
https://www.explorenicecotedazur.com/explorer/activites/velo/hebergements-labellises-accueil-velo/
Tourrettes-sur-Loup
The medieval village of Tourrettes is a lovely alternative to the hustle and bustle of the nearby coast and is also a perfect starting point for tours into the hinterland. The artists' village of Vence, the start of the famous Col du Vence, the Gorges du Loup gorge and the perfume capital of Grasse are all in the immediate vicinity.
Le Mazet de Tourrettes, Phone 0033/(0)660714829, www.lemazetdetourrettes.com
Wonderful country hotel with courtyard and natural pool. Road bike, MTB and e-bike hire available by prior arrangement. Double room with breakfast from 120 euros. Tip: There is also a holiday flat for up to three people (from 100 euros).
Don't miss it!
See and smell Grasse
The location and history of this town at the foot of the Maritime Alps, 40 kilometres west of Nice, in the hinterland of Antibes and Cannes, are unique. Its colourful houses are closely packed together on the hillside. Grasse gained worldwide fame in the Middle Ages when it became the centre of the perfume industry. And the novel "Perfume" has further increased its popularity. Around 30 perfume factories in and around the town produce the precious essences. Some factories, such as the traditional manufacturers Fragonard or Galimard, can be visited and you can even book workshops there to create your own fragrance.
Watch yachts
My house, my car, my boat. The well-known advertising slogan must have been invented on the Côte d'Azur. Only here it has to mean: my villa, my Italian sports car, my yacht. There is hardly any other place in Europe where the density of luxury goods is higher. And you can risk a look. Right at the forefront: the harbours of Monaco and Antibes. Everything you can imagine is moored there, from the elegant mahogany boat on which Brigitte Bardot once lolled to the streamlined steamer with its own helicopter on deck. The madness culminates when the Formula 1 Grand Prix takes place in Monte Carlo. But the Tour de France is also likely to provide an extra show for the rich and famous.
Info
- French National Tourist Board, www.france.fr
- Côte d'Azur France Tourism Board, www.cotedazurfrance.fr (French, English)
- Tips and information for cyclists: www.nicetourisme.com/cyclosport (French, English)
Map
Michelin Local 341 "French Riviera/Sea Alps", 1 : 150,000, 2023; 9.95 euros.
