It was, that much is clear, more than just a normal run, more than just a deep snow descent. But Patrick Bätz, ski guide on the Arlberg, only realised this afterwards. At first, he was only standing on the Sulzspitze, which towers over the St. Anton Rendl ski resort in the south-west, after the ascent. Looked down into a snow-covered slope. Took a handful of powder snow, threw it into the air and rejoiced: "It's dusting, my friends." Then he wagged down. And he made a trail down the slope like the world had never seen before. With the precision of a heart surgeon, the concentration of a Lufthansa captain and the stamina of a Tour de France winner.
Bätz realised that the slope was clearly visible from all around. At that moment, however, he didn't know that dozens of other skiers were watching him from opposite, from St Anton's local mountain, the Galzig. When he arrived at the bottom after 202 turns, people went wild. According to many locals, the run was probably the best ever on the Arlberg. I could hardly have chosen a more fit fellow cyclist for my Arlberg exploration. Nevertheless, I also ask Andi Tatschl if he would like to join me. And of course the head coach of the Ski-Club Arlberg (SCA) wants to. The ski club is an institution on the Arlberg, one of the largest in the world with around 9,200 members and one of the oldest - since 1901 - anyway. Skiers from all over the world vie for membership, which requires two guarantors. But the SCA is also one of the most successful ski clubs and sees the promotion of young talent as one of its most important tasks. And Andi Tatschl takes care of that.
Arlberg route test on the day off
I'm standing at the start with the skiers, both with thighs like tree trunks in their cycling shorts. Beforehand, I went to see Marco Jordan to be shown the best cycle routes in the Arlberg region. Marco is the event manager of the ski destination St. Anton, which has probably won every award you can win. He also rides a road bike, about 17,000, 18,000 kilometres a year. I'm not sure what that means for his tour recommendations to me. "I don't do anything under 1,000 metres in altitude," says Marco and laughs. Although the 1.93-metre giant occasionally travels south to Italy to ride flat routes, as event manager of the Arlberg Giro he also rides the route a few times a year, which thousands of cyclists compete in, many as the highlight of the season: start in St. Anton, over the Arlberg Pass, through the Montafon towards the Silvretta and through the Paznaun Valley back to St. Anton - 150 kilometres and 2,500 metres in altitude. This year, the starting signal for the cycle marathon will be given on 2 August.
"The race is an alpine festival for ambitious racing cyclists from all over the world," says Marco. I want to know how often he rides the route. A few dozen times a season, he says. "If I'm in a good mood, I'll ride it three times in a row." Three times a day? I read him what his boss, tourism director Martin Ebster, has said about the race. Ebster says that the Arlberg Giro alone is a "brutal challenge" for any racing cyclist. So why do it three times? "What am I supposed to do?" grins Marco. He always has to work on race day and the weeks leading up to it are also stressful. So he has to do a little more on his days off. A little? 7,500 metres in altitude? In one day? That's why, he replies, he takes it easy in winter, perhaps going on a ski tour up the Rendl in the evening.
Protection from the winter god
The next morning, we meet at the crack of dawn in front of the Ullrhaus in St. Anton. "Many people ask what Ullrhaus means," says Franziska Alber, who runs the hotel with her husband Michi. She explains that in Norse mythology, "Ullr" is the god of winter and hunting, the protector of skiers. Other sources translate Ullr as the "glorious one". I look up at the bike gladiators at my side and feel slim and slight despite my 80 kilograms. "Pack ma's endlich", shouts Andi.
For the next half hour, I can only think about one thing: not letting up. The boys pedal like oxen. Either Patrick gets out of the saddle and starts pedalling, or Andi - or both. Once the two of them are on a par, they look at each other and shout: "Every ride is a race." Laughing, they continue to accelerate. The gradient is 16 per cent and leads uphill for a miserable 6.7 kilometres.
Power from the Arlberg on the Arlberg
Why do these guys have so much power in their knuckles? The answer is provided by Axel Naglich, once race director of the legendary Hahnenkamm downhill in Kitzbühel. He is credited with the saying: "If it goes well, you're a hero, if it goes wrong, you're dead!" To get an idea of the forces acting on the racers as they raced down the Streif, he once had a Chrashtest dummy crash into the nets of the steep slope. He couldn't believe it: forces of up to 14 g, 1,600 kilograms of centrifugal force. The most important protection against serious injuries are muscles: Muscles; my muscles are burning like fire right now, while the two skiers chat about God and the world on the side.
At least they are waiting for me outside the tunnel. The view is amazing: the sun is just rising and bathes the Patteriol in the most beautiful morning light. "Okay, we've seen that now too," says Andi and keeps on cranking. On through St. Christoph with its world-famous hospice hotel, on through the deserted winter sports facilities, on to the Arlberg Pass at 1,800 metres, a lively and popular stop for everyone and everything that crosses the Arlberg on wheels. We quickly stuff ourselves with a croissant and cappuccino. Andi says: "Gemma at last!"
Diversions to the Bielerhöhe
In a flash, the Arlberg racing duo Bätz/Tatschl are banging downhill again, true to the motto: speed brings safety! It feels like we've got 100 kilometres on the speedometer - but I don't have time to look, I have to hold on to the handlebars. Ski world champion Aksel Lund Svindal comes to mind. "The only weak point on a brutal descent is our body," the Olympic champion used to say. The Norwegian described how a ski racer feels during the downhill as follows: "My whole nervous system is on alert, pumping adrenaline and endorphins through my body like crazy. It must be like being in a car accident - just two minutes at a time."
The journey with the Arlberg ski aces feels similar to me - only we ski downhill towards Bludenz for much longer than a ski descent takes. And racing "is always", as I have learnt. When we turn south-east towards Montafon shortly before Bludenz, I have to take a deep breath and flush out the adrenalin.
Pleasure trip through the Montafon
We cycle swiftly into the valley, passing Schruns, St. Gallenkirch, Gortipohl and Gaschurn. After Partenen, the last municipality in the valley, traffic is suddenly cut off: since rockfalls and mudslides blocked the Silvretta High Alpine Road in the summer of 2024, there has been no way through for cars; according to current plans, this will probably remain the case until 2030, as the route is being extensively renovated. We are lucky on this day and can tackle the 2,032 metre-high Bielerhöhe via the high Alpine road despite the construction work. If this is not possible, there is an alternative just after the Partenen toll station in the form of a forest road with a gradient of up to 16 per cent that leads through the Ganifertal valley, up to the Kops reservoir and the Zeinisjoch, before the route then leads into the Paznaun valley. The bypass is eight kilometres shorter than the route via the High Alpine Road, but the altitude difference is almost identical. Participants in the Arlberg Giro also take this route: "This means a crisp climb at the end of the Montafon," says tourism director Martin Ebster. From the Tyrolean side, the Bielerhöhe can be ridden normally through the Paznau valley.
We are spared the ramp in the forest, over which a ski route leads down into the valley to Partenen in winter - although the route along the Kops reservoir and over the Zeinisjoch is scenically beautiful and an attractive alternative from a cycling perspective. But we're not doing our tour for fun today.
Snack break at the reservoir
We treat ourselves to a break in the restaurant at the Silvretta reservoir, opt for burgers and enjoy the view over the shimmering glacier-green water and the Piz Buin. At 3,312 metres, the highest mountain in the state of Vorarlberg lies on the border between Austria and Switzerland, with the canton of Garubünden on the other side of its snow-covered flanks. After an apple strudel to finish - sugar is important - we set off on the return journey. We shoot at full speed via Galtür and through the "ski town" of Ischgl towards Pians in the Landeck district. Unfortunately, the downhill gradient ebbs and flows as we head out of the valley. Nevertheless, my two ski aces push on without stopping until I lose sight of them. Where are the boys when they could use a slipstream?
Once we reach Pians, we switch to the small chainring and head west again, uphill again, towards the Arlberg. "Every ride is a race", I shout along. Then I get the last crumbs of energy from the apple strudel and burger out of me to keep up, and the Arlberg boys look stupid. We reach the starting point in St. Anton "at the same time" and raid the Galzig bar. We order an affogato (espresso with vanilla ice cream), crème brûlée, a chocolate soufflé and another apple strudel. Then we run like gladiators to the hotel and, after a short nap and a fresh shower, head to the Ullrhaus for dinner.
Sweet finale
Franziska Alber, the boss, could not have chosen a better name. Inside, the house of the patron saint of skiers has a simple Scandinavian design: soft natural colours, soft woollen fabrics, sage green in all shades. No wood-panelled Alpine cliché, but a contemporary lifestyle characterises the hotel - accompanied by delicious food from Michael Gfall and his chef Erkan Cakir. We savour fresh goat's cheese with beetroot and mountain hay, accompanied by a glass of Chardonnay from Burgenland. A Jerusalem artichoke soup with bergamot fruit, shiitake mushrooms and macadamia nuts is followed by a main course of saddle of venison with semolina dumplings, onion jam and gentian. For dessert, a dream of quince and hazelnut with dark chocolate from Original Beans, called "Waldgrenze". Dessert number three today.
Travel info Arlberg
Journey
Thanks to the 2001 Ski World Championships, St. Anton am Arlberg - the cradle of alpine skiing - is easier to reach by train than almost any other ski resort in Europe. The alpine mountain village at 1,304 metres has a so-called Railjet station, where seven direct trains from Vienna and Zurich arrive every day. The Tyrolean municipality is also officially home to the world's highest ICE railway station. From there, the hotels and guesthouses can be easily reached within a few minutes. Of course, travelling by car is also easy, as the village is only a few minutes away from the S16 motorway. Zurich and Munich airports can be reached in less than three hours. Nevertheless: "Anyone on holiday with us can safely leave their car at home," says Tourism Director Martin Ebster.
The Arlberg
Strictly speaking, "the Arlberg" only refers to the crossing between the Austrian states of Vorarlberg in the west and Tyrol in the east, which is important in terms of transport, but at 1,793 metres is not spectacularly high. With the emergence of (ski) tourism at the beginning of the 20th century, the Arlberg became more and more of a brand name over the years, under which the various ski resorts grouped around the Arlberg are grouped. The Arlberg region is generally regarded as the "cradle of skiing". Pioneers such as Hannes Schneider, early experts such as Pepi Jennewein, Rudi Matt in the 1930s, Karl Schranz in the 1960s and Patrick Ortlieb in the 1990s carried the Arlberg's reputation around the world.
With the villages and ski areas of St. Anton, St. Christoph, Stuben, Lech, Zürs, Warth and Schröcken, the Arlberg is Austria's largest interconnected ski area with 350 kilometres of pistes and 200 kilometres of deep snow runs and, according to its own figures, the fifth largest in the world. Accordingly, every last corner of the region has been developed for tourism. Although the Arlberg is still considered to be relatively snow-sure, the resorts are now also intensively courting summer visitors, with an increasing number of cultural, sporting and other events taking place. Hikers, mountaineers and racing cyclists will find a huge selection of tours.
Arlberg Giro
The cycling highlight in the region is the Arlberg Giro in August, the route covers 150 kilometres and 2,500 metres in altitude and includes challenging mountain passes, steep descents and breathtaking views. The marathon starts and finishes in St. Anton am Arlberg. After the early morning start, the route leads over the Arlberg Pass and through the Klostertal valley into Montafon. Since the closure of the Silvretta High Alpine Road, the Arlberg Giro takes the slightly shorter but very challenging diversions through the idyllic Ganifertal up to the Kops reservoir and the Zeinisjoch just after Partenen. From there, the route leads through the Paznaun valley and the Stanzertal valley back to St. Anton. Residents and guests in the villages along the route cheer on the participants and the atmosphere is fantastic. This year, the Arlberg Giro will take place on 2 August and the entry fee is between 85 and 110 euros, depending on when you register.
Still relatively new to the Arlberg Giro is the St. Anton Night Sprint on Friday evening, which is also open to cyclists who are not taking part in the Giro. The event consists of a 200 metre sprint through the pedestrian zone, in which the 16 fastest cyclists qualify for the next round, which is then held as an eliminator. On Saturday, an international cycling criterium for amateurs and professionals will also take place on the streets of St. Anton.
Equalisation
It is said that cyclists like to train a lot of endurance and leg strength - and neglect flexibility. If you're open to new ideas, you could take a look at the "Mountain Yoga Festival" in St. Anton at the beginning of September. The event has built up a special reputation over the past ten years and combines yoga courses and programmes with the natural experience of the mountains.
Food & Drink
Ullrhaus
The Ullrhaus in St. Anton with its pool, lounge and gourmet restaurant is the brainchild of Franziska Alber and her husband Michael Gfall. The two locals, deeply rooted in St. Anton, run this cosy design hotel as an object close to their hearts. https://www.ullrhaus.at/
Galzig-Bistrobar
The après-meeting place is the bistro bar in summer and winter. It serves apple strudel, crème brûlée, simply everything that tastes good. In the afternoon and evening, delicacies are served ranging from salads, soups and burgers to steaks and classics such as Wiener schnitzel with parsley potatoes, cranberry sauce and lemon. If you like pasta, you will also find everything your heart desires here.
Anthony's
The best pizza in town, plus pasta, risotto and other Italian classics.
Tour information and GPS data to follow
Tourenregion
If you want to climb through mountain valleys and over mountain passes in alpine regions and collect metres in altitude, St. Anton is the place to be. However, a solid basic level of fitness and mountain experience are required to have fun there, as the mountains set a clear framework: many climbs are steep, round tours are relatively long and there are virtually no shortcuts. Nevertheless, fantastic and challenging climbing tours await. Towards the west are Arlberg, Klostertal and Montafon, via Lech and Warth you can reach Inntal and Bregenzerwald, on the Tyrolean side the Hahntennjoch, the Pitztal with the Piller saddle or the challenging ascent to the Kaunertal glacier await.
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Tour 1 Bregenzerwald circuit | 132 km, 3280 m altitude difference
Extremely attractive scenery, a challenge for cyclists. After the start in St. Anton, the route immediately climbs steeply up to the Arlberg Pass. The early effort is rewarded with a roaring descent before turning off towards the Flexenpass and Zürs/Lech shortly after the Alpe Rauz. In Warth, the route turns west, climbs over the Hochtannberg Pass and shoots through the Bregenzerwald to Au, where the ascent to the Faschinajoch branches off to the left. Through the Große Walsertal valley you reach Bludenz and wind your way back through the Klostertal valley towards the Arlberg Pass and back to St. Anton.
Tour 2 Lechtal and Hahntennjoch | 137 km 2,438 metres in altitude
Off to Tyrol! Most of the tour leads into the neighbouring state of Vorarlberg. As described here, the route heads clockwise via the Arlberg Pass, Zürs, Lech and Warth down into the Lech Valley. There you can let it roll for a while before the road branches off to the 1,894 metre high Hahntennjoch just before Elmen after around 60 kilometres. The pass has already been part of the TOUR-Transalp several times. The route is also extremely popular with motorised excursionists and should be avoided at weekends if possible. The way back through the Inn Valley climbs steadily but moderately - it becomes a challenge when the wind sweeps down the valley ...
Tour 3 Arlberg Tour | 142 km 2,315 metres altitude
The route is identical to that of the official Arlberg Giro at the beginning of August. After the start in St. Anton, there is another forced warm-up up to the Arlberg Pass before the route takes the old Arlberg road through the Klostertal valley to Bludenz. There the route turns south-east and climbs the Montafon at a moderate gradient - until the toughest challenge of the day awaits behind Partenen: The climb through the Ganifertal valley to the Kops reservoir and Zeinisjoch. This is followed by a wild chase through the Paznaun valley and the return journey to St. Anton from Pians.
Tour 4 To Tobadill | 60 km 814 m elevation gain
If you're travelling to the Arlberg to take on the real bangers, this 60-kilometre start draws your attention to a corner that is otherwise literally left out. Tobadill is a small village of 500 people situated on a narrow terrace 200 metres above Pians. From there, there are beautiful views over the mountains into the Paznaun Valley and the Stanzertal, through which the outward and return routes to and from St. Anton lead. Touring cyclists know Tobadill as a waypoint on the Via Claudia Augusta long-distance cycle route, which leads from Donauwörth in Bavaria to Italy.
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