Zurich region: The most beautiful road bike tours around Switzerland's largest city

Wow, that's steep! The little road mercilessly adds another scoop every hundred metres. First 10, 12, then 13 per cent gradient. It gets steadily steeper until the ramp mercilessly remains at 14 or 15 per cent. Well, I had been warned that the Etzel Pass, or "the Etzel" for short, is considered by local cyclists to be the most difficult climb around Lake Zurich. From the southern shore, where the lake dam connects the towns of Rapperswil and Pfäffikon across the water, the narrow ribbon of tarmac runs in an almost direct line up to the top of the pass, which is hidden on a visually inconspicuous, wooded ridge. But this mountain stage must be painful, like self-mortification, because an old pilgrimage route to Einsiedeln Abbey also leads over the Etzel.

Switzerland's most famous place of pilgrimage is located in the immediate vicinity of Lake Zurich in the canton of Schwyz, just a few kilometres south of the Etzel Pass. After almost five kilometres at the slowest pace, I have completed the painful Way of the Cross and stand panting at the chapel at the top of the pass. A place full of myths and legends. The heart of the Benedictine monk Meinrad von Einsiedeln, who founded the monastery, is said to be buried here. The monumental church complex is hidden further back, between the hills of the Alpine foothills. But the summit of the pass was not to be the highlight of my tour around Lake Zurich in terms of views. This presents itself just two kilometres away, after the route branches off onto a narrow road to the west and presents a panorama that makes me want to get off the bike. Like a Norwegian fjord, Lake Zurich lies nestled in the Oberland 500 metres below me. Its shores are densely populated, but no sound reaches me. Switzerland's largest city hides in the haze on the horizon. And reminds me why I'm actually here.

On the trail of the Züri Metzgete

In a few weeks, at the end of September, the racers will be battling for the rainbow jerseys in Zurich, over there in the hills of the Oberland between Lake Zurich, Greifensee and the neighbouring town of Winterthur. Although Pogacar and co. will be spared the Etzel Pass, I have already experienced for myself on the first part of today's lap that the routes of the road races are selective. In addition to the tough climbs in the city itself, the so-called Pfannenstiel, a ridge that separates Lake Zurich from the much smaller Greifensee, is the focal point of the races.

Even if its 853 metre summit height doesn't sound intimidating, the Pfannenstiel enjoys classic status in the Zurich cycling scene: the keyword is Züri Metzgete. What sounds like the name of a butcher's shop was, until 2014, the name of an infamous cycling race whose course often led over the Pfannenstiel. Although the Zurich Championship (as the race was officially called) has not been held since then due to a lack of sponsors, its 100-year tradition continues to this day. After all, the Metzgete has always been a must-attend event in the World Cup calendar. Whether Didi Thurau, Francesco Moser or Eddy Merckx - well-known professionals were always on the starting line. And according to the old black and white pictures, there was a real Tour de France atmosphere on the climb to the Pfannenstiel. The origin of the nickname Metzgete, which actually means slaughter in Switzerland, has never been fully clarified. What is known is that there were often mass crashes on the narrow roads of the Oberland and many riders crossed the finishing line with bleeding wounds. If you want to experience the key sections of this race on your bike, you can find numerous route suggestions from fans on online portals such as Outdooractive, Komoot or Strava.

Focus on safety

Now the 2024 World Championships will once again use sections of the Metzgete route in the road races. So a slaughter festival in the old tradition? Fortunately, probably not. At the Veloforum in the Kongresshaus Zurich, an event dedicated to cycling in Switzerland, I meet Daniel Rupf, head of the Zurich 2024 Local Organising Committee. Together with Olivier Senn, his deputy and Head of Sport, he played a key role in planning the route. "We paid the utmost attention to the safety of riders and spectators," says Rupf, pointing to the overview map of the competition routes on the screen. "We made countless on-site inspections and liaised closely with the UCI (cycling's world governing body; editor's note)." The result was technically demanding routes that nevertheless guarantee a fair race. The organisers are expecting 300,000 spectators on the weekend of the professional race alone, and one million during the entire World Championships.

Zurich generally wants to present itself as a bicycle-friendly city for the World Cup. This is not an easy endeavour, as the promotion of cycling in the city, which began in 2012 as the "Cycling Masterplan" and will be replaced in 2021 by the "Cycling Strategy 2030", is far from complete. This includes, for example, the construction of further low-traffic cycle routes and parking facilities. Nevertheless, a new cycle tunnel under the main railway station is due to open this year. I also meet Rainer Bühler and Roland Tännler at the Kongresshaus. The two Zurich natives are presenting their new book, in which they present a multi-day gravel route through the whole of Switzerland. So would you rather stay off the road? "Gravel biking is not just a trend in Switzerland," says Rainer Bühler, "but there is something special about it. For me, even the after-work ride on my home turf feels almost like a holiday every time." Nevertheless, he still enjoys riding his racing bike. "Sure, you need good nerves in city traffic, there's nothing to sugarcoat," he continues. "But once you've discovered the right shortcuts, you're out in the countryside very quickly." Rainer recommends that visitors use public transport to get to the starting point of a tour. After all, one or two stops on the S-Bahn will get cyclists out of the hectic city centre in a flash.

Cycling history in Oerlikon

The World Cup participants are unlikely to have to deal with any conflicts with traffic on the cordoned-off routes. On Limmatquai, for example, where the heart of the city pulsates: Tourists are strolling, business people are hurrying, students are on their way to university, cars are honking their horns, trams are ringing their bells. A hullabaloo of the first order. And this is where the road pros will be battling for the rainbow jersey on 29 September? Unimaginable at this moment. But the city will be prepared. Zurich has already hosted the World Championships three times, most recently in 1946, as well as the annual Metzgete and the Tour de Suisse. The peloton will race past the Limmatquai a total of seven times on the final laps. And just as often, the Zürichbergstrasse awaits shortly afterwards with up to 15 per cent steep ramps. A small Etzel Pass in the middle of the city, so to speak.

Before I get back on the saddle the next day to explore more tours in the surrounding area, I have an appointment at the cycling track in Oerlikon. Built in 1912, the concrete oval is a monument to Swiss cycling that is currently experiencing something of a second spring. After its heyday, the track almost fell into oblivion in the 1990s. It was even threatened with demolition to make way for the construction of an ice hockey stadium. Thanks to the objections of the local population and the founding of an interest group, the railway was saved. Heier Lämmler, who describes himself as the "go-to man" in the company, and President Alois Iten proudly show me around the impressive facility. World champions were crowned here and memorable Tour de Suisse events celebrated their finale. For example in the 1950s with Hugo Koblet as the winner, one of Switzerland's most famous cyclists to this day. Iten, who is now 80 years old, experienced Koblet's successes himself. At the upcoming World Championships, the Oerlikon track will once again be in the spotlight as the starting stage for the men's time trial.

As impressive as the city and its sights are - after so much concrete, I'm looking forward to fresh green tones, spicy country air, views of the Alps and a few metres of altitude. Fortunately, these are all options that are within easy reach in Zurich. You just need to know the right escape routes - and have the big mountain sprocket fitted.

Information about the cycle tour to Zurich

Journey

Railway: There are daily connections from all major German cities. You need an international bike ticket (from 7.50 euros) and a parking space reservation to take your bike on long-distance trains. Transport is possible in the EC, RE and RB train classes. The parking space reservation can often be booked with the bike card online and in the app (DB Navigator), via DB travel centres and agencies as well as the service telephone number 030/2970.

Bus: An inexpensive alternative is travelling by Flixbus. The long-distance buses travel from all major German cities to Zurich, often even directly. If you book in good time, you can get tickets from 25 euros (one-way), the upper limit is around 40 euros. A bicycle must be booked separately as additional luggage (from 8 euros) and should be packed in a bag in the luggage compartment. There are also buses with bike racks. www.flixbus.de

Car: From southern Germany: via the Rhine Valley (A 5) and Basel to Zurich, via the A 81 from Stuttgart via Singen and Schaffhausen or A 96 via Lindau, Bregenz, St. Gallen. Toll: the Swiss motorway toll sticker (40 CHF/year).

Best time to travel

Pleasant temperatures from May into the autumn. The congestion on the edge of the Alps can lead to rainy weather or afternoon thunderstorms in summer; September and October are the driest months of the year.

Food & Drink

You don't have to look far for the typical dish of the region, after all it bears the name of the city: Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, originally known as "Züri-Gschnätzlets". The chopped veal is fried in butter and served with golden-brown rösti. Schübling, a smoked sausage that is usually eaten cold as a snack, is also typical of the regional cuisine. Freshly caught whitefish is also served, which tastes particularly good with crispy Züri bread. What hardly anyone knows is that the famous Birchermüesli was also invented in Zurich. Over a hundred years ago, the doctor Maximilian Bircher-Benner administered the mixture of oatmeal, apples and nuts to patients in his sanatorium on the Zürichberg. Dairy products are always an issue in Switzerland, from the countless varieties of cheese to chocolate. And in a tourist centre like Zurich, you will also find raclette and fondue on the menu. It is generally advisable to make a reservation when visiting a restaurant in the evening.

Restaurant tips:

Restaurant zum Kropf, telephone 0041/(0)442211805, www.zumkropf.ch
The history of this house in the historic centre dates back to the Middle Ages. In the dining room, panelled with magnificent paintings, traditional cuisine is served with a modern twist.

Swiss Chuchi, telephone 0041/(0)442669696, www.hotel-adler.ch
The restaurant may be touristy, but if you want to eat your way through Swiss cuisine, you'll find everything on the menu: from cheese fondues and raclettes to down-to-earth spaetzli dishes - and they're delicious!

Accommodation

The price level is generally high, in every accommodation category. The further away you are from the lake and the city centre, the greater the chances of saving a few francs. A good overview can be found on the Zürich Tourism website (www.zuerich.com).

Sorell Hotel Zürichberg, telephone 0041/(0)443884343, www.sorellhotels.com
Traditional house with modern extension on the Zürichberg. Quiet despite its proximity to the city, 180-degree panorama from the terrace over the lake to the Alps. Walking distance to the city centre by tram. The downside: at the end of a tour, there are around 200 metres of elevation gain to the hotel. And: double room with breakfast from the equivalent of 630 euros.

Zurich Youth Hostel, telephone 0041/(0)433997800,www.youthhostel.ch
Located not far from Wollishofen railway station. At the time of going to press, double rooms (from the equivalent of 70 euros per person) were already fully booked for the time of the World Cycling Championships, but multi-bed rooms were not yet available. In a 6-bed room with breakfast from 48 euros, in a 4-bed room from 54 euros.

Bike service

Cycle Store, phone 0041/(0)445108393, www.cyclestorezurich.com
Englishman Sam Revell's shop in the city centre is the hippest meeting place for Zurich's racing cyclists. For those looking to socialise: The locals meet there in dry weather on Thursdays at 6 pm for an after-work ride. Many tours are available for GPS download on the homepage under "Club".

Don't miss it!

Zurich walk

The compact centre invites you to spend a few hours wandering through the city centre. The heart of the city beats on both sides of the Limmat, between Quaibrücke and Platz Central. All the famous churches are lined up within sight and walking distance: Grossmünster, Fraumünster, Wasserkirche and St Peter's. Further west, Bahnhofstrasse is lined with glittering and upmarket boutiques. At Central, take the short ascent on the Polybahn railway. The terrace at the foot of the Technical University offers a marvellous panorama of the city. Tip The Zürich Card is worthwhile for stays of several days. It allows you to use public transport as far as the surrounding area. It also gives you free entry to many museums or discounts of up to 50 per cent. Information at www.zuerich.com

If you prefer something a little cheaper or are happy with a snack, you should leave the Old Town to the west and explore the neighbourhoods on the other side of the Sihl. Tip from the bike locals: the so-called Viadukt, Europaallee, Langstrasse or the neighbourhood around Brupbacherplatz and Idaplatz (Sihlfeld district). Popular: Frau Gerolds Garten (www.fraugerold.ch), a curious mixture of beer garden, nursery and market.

River baths (Badi)

There are several historic river baths along the Limmat. The swimming areas are surrounded by wooden galleries, sunbathing decks and jetties. A kiosk provides guests with ice cream, drinks and snacks. The Unterer Letten bathing area is very popular with its 100 metre-long swimming channel and rake at the end. Experienced swimmers will enjoy the strong current. Fun fact: there is also a women's pool (Stadthausquai) and a men's pool (Schanzengraben). By the way: there is no admission charge for these pools.

WM-Infos

www.zurich2024.com
The official website of the UCI with all information about the World Championships or here.

Map

Cycling maps "Zurich" (sheet 6) and "Schwyz/Glarus" (sheet 12), 1:60,000, published by Kümmerly+Frey, 29 euros each.

map.schweizmobil.ch - there you will find all signposted routes in the country, selectable by type of sport.

Info

Zurich Tourism, telephone 0041/(0)442154000, www.zuerich.com

Four tours around Zurich

Orientation

The narrow Lake Zurich stretches for 42 kilometres and is located on the northern edge of the Alps in Switzerland, around 60 kilometres south-west of Lake Constance as the crow flies. The city of Zurich, with a population of just under 430,000, surrounds the western end of Lake Zurich, where the River Limmat flows out of the lake. The canton is also called Zurich (ZH). The neighbouring cantons are Schaffhausen (SH), Thurgau (TG), St. Gallen (SG), Schwyz (SZ), Zug (ZG) and Aargau (AG). The southern edge of Lake Zurich is bordered by the Etzel and Albis mountain ranges. To the north, the Pfannenstiel separates Lake Zurich from the much smaller Greifensee. Zurich's local mountain is the 870 metre high Uetliberg. It borders the city to the south-west, where it is easily recognisable by the towering transmission mast. The panoramic summit can be reached by bike (over fine gravel at the top) or by suburban railway.

Tour character

Although Zurich is the largest city in Switzerland, it tends to be categorised as "tranquil" by international standards. Nevertheless, due to its basin location between the mountain ridge and the lakeshore, houses and traffic are crowded together. Starting a cycle tour in the centre of the city is a challenge. There are few shortcuts, but fortunately the traffic decreases noticeably after the first three or four kilometres. The topography: it is only completely flat directly on the lakeshore or westwards in the Limmat valley. However, there is a lot of traffic both in the valley and on the lakeshore, which is why you should avoid routes there or cycle very early in the morning. So the only sensible recommendation is to head for the mountains. Fortunately, and typically for Switzerland, there is a dense network of side roads and tarmac farm tracks across the country, which are also well signposted for cyclists. The region has the character of the Alpine foothills, comparable to the Allgäu. Passes such as Sattelegg, Etzel and Sternenberg are around the thousand metre mark, while the lake is 406 metres above sea level. Behind every bend, crisp ramps with a gradient of well over 10 per cent can lurk, for example on the Etzel Pass on the tour around Lake Zurich (Tour 3) with 13 per cent ramps. Nevertheless, every effort and every zigzag course, no matter how wild, is worth it! Because picture-book panoramas open up every minute, for example around the village of Einsiedeln and the mountain lakes there.

Tour 1: To the Limmat and Reuss

• 66 kilometres
• 1,140 metres in altitude
• max. 12 % gradient

The west of Zurich and the Limmat Valley in particular are characterised by suburbs and industry. This continues along the Aare into the Mittelland. At first glance, not too tempting terrain for a tour. But we have skilfully laid out a route over the hills and in the valleys on tarmac farm tracks - and thus created an attractive route. The start and finish is at Brupbacherplatz in Zurich's Sihlfeld neighbourhood. A popular meeting point where you can top up on calories in the form of ice cream or pizza from the tray at the end. The ride out of the city takes a while, but after five kilometres the houses clear up. At the Reppischhof railway station, you cross under the tracks and begin a somewhat adventurous ascent on a narrow forest path to the newly built Hasenberg viewing tower. But the hillside route on the onward journey towards Oberrohrdorf also opens up unexpected views across the Mittelland as far as the Swiss Jura. The detour to Gasthaus Rüsler (www.ruesler.ch) gains a few metres in altitude and is also worthwhile because of the viewing terrace. The descent winds its way through residential areas and ends in Mellingen on the Reuss. After paying tribute to the pretty old town, cycle route 77 leads upstream along the Reuss to Bremgarten; the wooden Reuss bridge originally dates back to the 13th century. A few hairpin bends now wind their way up to Friedlisberg and on towards Dietikon. The finale is curious, as a road in the Reppischtal valley, which is closed to public traffic, leads through the middle of a military area. If this section is closed, which can happen from time to time during firing exercises, you return straight ahead at Reppischhof to the outward route, which you follow back to Zurich.

Tour 2: On the trail of the World Cycling Championships

• 148 kilometres
• 1,870 metres altitude
• max. 13 % gradient

Feel like a professional cyclist for once? Or rather: suffer like a pro? Every cycling fan can experience this for themselves on the original routes of the Road World Championships. Our tour takes in the most important sections of the various road races and also visits some of the time trial sections. If 148 kilometres is too much for you, you can shorten the route from Greifensee at several points or skip the so-called City Circuit towards the end, which the pros have to complete seven times. The start at Winterthur railway station is easy to reach from Zurich by S-Bahn. The starting gun for the elite pros is also fired nearby. Before heading towards Lake Zurich, the peloton makes a loop through the Weinland region to the north-west of Winterthur. This is more or less a roll-in, as there are no climbs worth mentioning. Only after the turning point in Flaach will the riders be able to test their competitors' sprightliness on the Irchel ridge. Then the spectator-friendly route leads to the outskirts of Winterthur again, before the poisonous ramp out of the Töss Valley up to Kyburg is likely to cause the first anxiety among the riders. On the following transfer to Lake Pfäffikon and Lake Greifensee, the Alps come into view for the first time. Greifensee and the town of Uster are the centre for the elite women's and men's U23 races. The classic climb from Maur to Binz leads into the city circuit of Zurich, where most of the decisions will be made. Before that, however, our tour makes a loop via Oetwil and Uetikon and follows the time trial route to Zurich. The finale is at Sechseläutenplatz, right next to the famous Quai Bridge over the River Limmat.

Tour 3: Lake Zurich circuit

• 102 kilometres
• 1,650 metres altitude
• max. 15 % gradient

Every lake attracts cyclists with a tour around it. On Lake Zurich, however, the fun is limited due to the densely populated shores. Our route therefore switches to more secluded roads. The less traffic comes at the price of more metres in altitude. We start at the Quaibrücke Limmat bridge. First hurdle: the Rigiblick. Afterwards, traffic-calmed cycle routes lead northwards around the Zürichberg to Dübendorf. Tip: At kilometre 5, it is only a stone's throw to the cycle race track in Oerlikon. The ramp from Dübendorf to Geeren is steep and unfortunately quite busy. The route then winds its way up and down through other parts of the city towards Pfannenstiel, the ridge between Lake Zurich and Lake Greifensee. From Forch (km 25), the roads become noticeably quieter. The historic town of Rapperswil is a good place to take a break before crossing the lake dam to Pfäffikon. On the other shore, the toughest climb of the tour will test your strength: In an almost direct line and with a continuous gradient of around 13 per cent, the route climbs up to the 949-metre-high Etzel Pass. But the magnificent panoramic view over Lake Zurich makes every drop of sweat worthwhile. After a short descent to Schindellegi, the villages become smaller again; soon a tarmac farm track swings for kilometres over a ridge - with a view of the lake, of course. Only in Sihltal do you meet a larger road again, which leads back to Zurich via Langnau and Adliswil. Variants: From Langnau, a good 200 metres in altitude up to the hamlet of Buchenegg and via Stallikon and Waldegg to Zurich. A combination with Tour 2 is also possible, from Etzel over the Teufelsbrücke to Einsiedeln. Shortcuts are also possible: you can take the train back to Zurich from almost anywhere around the lake - or cross the lake halfway up by ferry from Meilen to Horgen.

Tour 4: Pilgrimage to Einsiedeln

• 113 kilometres
• 1,860 metres altitude
• max. 12 % gradient

A tour with two faces: the first part leads along the southern, mostly busy lakeside road along Lake Zurich. However, we want to cover a few kilometres quickly at the start, as there are still plenty of mountains to come. As soon as the route branches off into the Wägital, the region shows its tranquil side, with marvellous side roads and panoramic views. The start is at Zurich-Wollishofen railway station, which can also be reached by S-Bahn (bike transport). The roll-in phase lasts until Pfäffikon (km 28), then the route finally bends away from the lake to the south behind Lachen, initially into a steep but all the more beautiful entrance to the Wägital. At Vorderthal, the ascent to the Sattelegg begins, which at 1,190 metres above sea level is one of the region's classics. The pass is also very popular with motorcyclists at weekends. After the descent, the route crosses one of two curious lake bridges over Lake Sihlsee to Einsiedeln Abbey, Switzerland's most famous place of pilgrimage. Over the Raten (1,077 m), the road becomes a little wider again. During the descent, don't miss the junction with Schwandstrasse in Alosen (cycle routes!). The highlight of the tour follows: with a constant view of Lake Aegeri, the narrow road leads along the slope to the Kistenpass inn, before descending into the idyllic Sarbach valley after passing Menzingen and its surprisingly large monastery complex, which looks like a place from another world. In Sihlbrugg, we cross the main road between Zurich and Zug, and the route begins to climb again at a leisurely pace. Via Ebertswil and Hausen, we head to the Türlersee lake and then over the Albispasshöhe (790 m), which, together with the neighbouring Buchenegg (pass), is one of the favourite climbs of Zurich locals. The finale rolls down to Wollishofen on perfect tarmac. It goes without saying that the traffic increases with every metre.

You can find the GPS data for the four tours in our tour portal