After the Nufenen (2,478 m), the Furka is the second highest pass in Switzerland, the entire length of which lies on Swiss territory. Although the Great St. Bernard (2,469 m) and Umbrail (2,501 m) are also higher than the Furka, their southern ramps belong to Italy. Long before the road was opened in 1867, the mule track between the cantons of Valais and Uri was already a busy trading route.
The Furka road is particularly impressive from the west. After the start of the ascent in Oberwald, it initially winds its way upwards through a narrow valley with few views. The surprise is all the greater when an imposing basin opens up on reaching the settlement of Gletsch. There seems to be no way out until you spot the hairpin bends to the top of the pass on the vertical wall ahead. To the left of the fine zigzag lines, the Rhône glacier plunges into the depths, having lost much of its ice as a result of global warming. It's hard to believe that its tongue ended in Gletsch around 150 years ago, in the front garden of the venerable "Glacier du Rhône" hotel.
This is proven by historical photos, which also rotate in the postcard stands at the Hotel du Belvédère, further up on the pass road. The former luxury hotel stands at a dizzying height, right on the edge of the ice flow. Once you have reached the hotel, the steepest section of the western ramp (around ten per cent) is behind you. Now it's another two and a half kilometres to the comparatively barren-looking pass summit.
The east ramp of the Furka - already travelled several times by the Tour de Suisse - is shorter, slightly steeper on average, but also very even. However, it does present a psychological challenge for some: After the first section with hairpin bends, the tarmac stretches in a seemingly endless straight to the top of the pass. A few hotels along the route, which date back to the good old days, bear witness to the tourist importance of the Furka Pass.
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PDF: Switzerland: Furka Pass