Road cyclists can tackle these passes from Andermatt
Andermatt lies at an altitude of around 1,440 metres in the central Alps and is also relatively central in Switzerland: it is around 170 kilometres from Basel to Andermatt, around 130 kilometres from Andermatt to Chiasso, the southernmost tip of Switzerland, and Andermatt is also roughly halfway between Geneva in the west and Martina in the east (border with Austria). The municipality with around 1,500 inhabitants is located on the southern edge of the canton of Uri in the Urseren valley. The Urseren Valley in the headwaters of the Reuss forms a plateau at around 1,500 metres above sea level and lies between the Furka Pass to the west, the Gotthard Pass to the south and the Oberalp Pass to the east. The three passes are also the crossings into the cantons of Valais (Furka), Ticino (Gotthard) and Graubünden (Oberalp). From the Middle Ages until the construction of the railway and motorway tunnels, the Gotthard Pass (Italian: Passo del San Gottardo) was one of the most important links across the Alps, as it provided a north-south connection through the central Alps that only led over a single pass.
There are no easy road bike tours around Andermatt
You have to look for flat kilometres, around Andermatt it's either up or down. Over three passes - Furka, Gotthard, Oberhalp - you have to climb out of the valley; only to the north is the route downhill. Within a radius of 25 kilometres are the Nufenen, Grimsel, Susten and Lukmanier passes; to the north of this radius are the Pragel and Klausen passes. All in all: nine passes open up many possibilities for cycling tours, which is rare for a location in the middle of the mountains. You usually have to combine three passes to complete a loop - our "easiest" tour includes two passes and remains the only one with less than 3,000 metres of elevation gain. A smooth gear ratio is therefore a must, even if most of the climbs are no steeper than 11 per cent. In July and August there is a lot of motorbike and car traffic on the passes, especially on nice weekends; an early start only protects against this on the first pass. The road surface is mostly good, only on the descent from Lukmanier (concrete slabs) and Pragel (tarmac patches) were we rattled.
Tours
Tour 1
Furka - Nufenen - Gotthard (120 Kilometres | 3.530 Max. altitude metres 11 % gradient)
This tour takes in the two highest pass roads in Switzerland: the Furka Pass (2,429 m) and the Nufenen Pass (2,478 m) - and as the crowning finale, the paved but well-maintained historic Tremola road to the Gotthard Pass (2,107 m). Start: Apart from a short ramp near Hospental, the route is only slightly uphill for 9 kilometres to Realp. This is where the ascent to the Furka Pass begins, with the steepest ramps on the eastern flank at 10 per cent. Past the closed Hotel Belvédère and the hustle and bustle at the opposite entrance to the Rhone Glacier Ice Grotto, a dozen hairpin bends lead downhill to Gletsch. Continue partly on a cycle path to Ulrichen, where the ascent to the Nufenen begins. This is a long and sometimes double-digit climb into the valley before winding its way up to the pass in not too steep hairpin bends. This is followed by a 23-kilometre descent through Val Bedretto to Airolo, slowed down by only a few bends, then the Tremola to the Gotthard Pass and a thrilling descent to Andermatt.
Tour 2
Susten - Grimsel - Furka (105 Kilometres | 3.160 Max. altitude metres 11 % gradient)
A classic tour for pass lovers, which has also been part of the Tour de Suisse. The east side of the Susten Pass (2,224 m) doesn't seem too difficult with a maximum gradient of 9 per cent. However, the 1,308 metres in altitude that lead out of the long Meien valley with only a few hairpin bends can be tough and discouraging because you can see the road just before the top of the pass (summit tunnel) from far below. The reward: the rushing descent past the Sustenhorn and Steingletscher. This is followed by the north side of the Grimsel Pass (2,164 m), which leads through a barren granite landscape carved by glaciers and, at 1,550 metres in altitude, is one of the biggest climbs in the Alps. The final ascent over the western ramp of the Furka Pass (2,429 m), which winds its way out of a seemingly hopeless basin in a few hairpin bends from Gletsch, is not too much of a hurdle at 672 metres in altitude.
Tour 3
Oberalp - Lukmabier - Gotthard (153 Kilometres | 3.500 Max. altitude metres 10 % gradient)
A long, energy-sapping lap that leaves no time for a roll-in. The ascent to the Oberalp Pass (2,044 m) begins immediately. 600 metres in altitude over 10 kilometres is a low hurdle that you are happy to jump over quickly, as the pass is also an important east-west transport axis in addition to tourist traffic. Things get quieter from Disentis, where the route branches off southwards to the Lukmanier Pass and thus into Italian-speaking Ticino. The pass is at an altitude of 1,917 metres, the highest point of the road shortly before, in a tunnel, at 1,972 metres. On the descent in Ticino through alpine pastures and sparse Swiss stone pine forests, transverse joints give cyclists a mighty shake. The 37 kilometres of traffic on the main road 2 from Biasca to Airolo are annoying, but the cycle path through Valle Leventina (also in the GPS download) is four kilometres longer, winding and gravelled in short sections. Finally, the cobbled Tremola road to the Gotthard Pass (2,107 m) and a thrilling descent to Andermatt await.
Rest tip (77.5 km) in Acquarossa Osteria/ Pizzeria Rubino, www.osteriarubino.ch
Tour 4
Chiusa - Pragel (132 Kilometres | 2.740 Max. altitude metres 14 % gradient)
It takes 52 minutes by train from Andermatt to Altdorf railway station. After the Klausen Pass (1,948 m), the route leads over the Pragel Pass (1,548 m), a quiet, almost unknown gem. Start: Apart from a few 9 per cent ramps, the road climbs moderately through the Schächental valley to the Klausen Pass, which offers beautiful views in an open alpine landscape, as well as a descent through the picture-book trough valley of the Urnerboden. The altitude of the Pragelpass (tip: closed to cars at weekends) may seem harmless, but its eastern side is peppered with ramps of 12 to 14 per cent. The green mountains that surround it just exceed the 2,000 metre mark - this is more spectacular on many passes in Switzerland. But the lonely road and the remote mountain pastures have their charm. The descent to the west is dangerous, where the rough, narrow road, which is difficult to negotiate in the forest, plunges down to Muotathal at up to 18 per cent. Steering skills are required there - and good brakes. There are 16 kilometres to Altdorf on Lake Uri, ten of which are right next to the busy lakeside road (2). If you don't want to do that, take the train in Brunnen.
Rest tip Glarus, Glarnerhof (glarnerhof.ch), at 64.7 km turn right into Bahnhofstrasse.
