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The days of pumping up to double-digit bar values into a road bike tyre are long gone. Tyres (and rims) have become wider and require less pressure, so more than seven bar is hardly ever needed anymore. Nevertheless, floor pumps are and remain the preferred tool for inflating road bike tyres quickly and conveniently. The pressure gauge is particularly important for precisely setting the optimum air pressure. The only sensible alternative to a floor pump is an electric compressor paired with a precise pressure gauge - more on this on page three of the article. (Electric compressor).
The pumps in this test cost between 40 and 129 euros, and the design is similar for all of them: the cylinder is fixed to the base with both feet and pressure is built up with the help of the T-handle. Only on the
Silca pump, the footboard is so small that it can be secured with just one foot. The compressed air passes through a non-return valve, then the pressure gauge and is finally conveyed via the pressure hose to the pump head, which establishes the connection to the valve. The diameter of the piston determines how easily pressure can be built up; the total volume determines how many strokes are required: In the test field, we needed 21 to 36 strokes to get a 25 mm tyre up to six bar. The pumping feel is also influenced by the type of piston, its low-friction guide and seal and how comfortable the grip is.
There are greater differences in the pump heads than in the cylinders. Firstly, a distinction must be made between simple slip-on heads and those that are secured with additional levers. With the exception of SKS, the lever heads have to be attached with both hands or with a lot of force, as with Cube. The pump heads from Lezyne and Zefal are screwed on. This is an advantage if the valve only just protrudes from the rim, but is generally fiddly. We noticed that most pump heads are still designed to take car valves, although these are no longer relevant for sporty bikes, regardless of the terrain.
An important question, however, is whether the attached valve head automatically presses in the valve plunger and thus opens the valve. Only then will the current pressure in the tyre be displayed directly on the pressure gauge - albeit somewhat diluted by the additional volume of the pump hose. And only then can the pressure be reduced continuously via a valve, which is absolutely desirable.
If the valve is not activated, the pressure gauge only shows the pressure in the tyre when the air is pumped and flows out. Activating the valve is therefore an advantage - but only as long as the rubber seal in the pump head is sufficiently tight. If the fit is not tight, air escapes unintentionally as soon as you put the head on. The floor pump is then barely usable. Practical tip: Buy a sufficient supply of suitable rubber seals, preferably in a small bag attached directly to the pump. This ensures you have a supply when you need it and avoids fits of rage when searching for it in vain in the workshop.
There are major differences in the pressure gauges. Although their accuracy is consistently good (max. 0.2 bar deviation), some dial manometers are difficult to read. This is due to display ranges of 1 to 16 bar that are too wide, diameters that are too small and scales that display the American PSI unit large but the European bar scale tiny. The range of 2.5 to 7 bar, which is relevant for racing bikes and gravel bikes, is only well resolved by the pointer instruments at Topeak and Pedros, as well as by the digital displays. A display accurate to one or two tenths of a bar is definitely desirable, because these small differences are already noticeable with larger tyre volumes and low pressures.
Conclusion: All pumps in the test do their job properly. Building up normal pressures is easy with all of them. If you are shorter than 1.70 metres, you should avoid the longest pumps. In practice, the pump heads and the handling for precise pressure adjustment make the decisive difference. With very good performance in this area, the pumps from Rose - the second cheapest! - and Pedros come out on top in the overall ranking.
A matter of the head
The head is the deciding factor, and this also applies to floor pumps. An overview of the pump heads and their characteristics:
Pump head with eccentric clamping
(Rose, Giant, Pedros, Pro, SKS, Specialised, Topeak)
Shows the pressure in the tyre immediately. Ideal in combination with pressure release valve for fine adjustment of the pressure. The function depends on the good sealing of the rubbers. If they start to wear out, they can no longer be used.
Pump head with linear clamping
(Cube)
Requires a tightly screwed valve and a lot of force to actuate the clamping mechanism when pushing the head onto the valve. High rubber wear when pulling off.
Attachable pump head
(Silca, optional with SKS)
Simplest method. No wearing parts apart from the rubber seal. Lasts - made of metal - forever. Disadvantages: Only shows the tyre pressure when the pump flows from the pump to the tyre; no fine adjustment; relatively high rubber wear depending on the condition of the valve stem.
Screw-on pump head
(Lezyne, Zefal)
Very secure connection with low valve protrusion. Disadvantages: time-consuming; sometimes loosens the valve core when unscrewing; only shows the pressure in the tyre when the pump flows over to the tyre; no fine adjustment of the pressure.
Cube: ACID Floor Pump Race Floor digital
59,95 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: Technical-functional: Pumps with medium force, displays the pressure accurately and has a practical release valve for fine adjustment. The head without a clamping lever takes more than a little getting used to and requires a lot of force to attach
Giant: Control Tower Pro Boost
110 Euro
Conclusion: Pumps smoothly with low force. Very stable, large pressure gauge and pressure release valve for fine adjustment with the tip of the foot. Indicates the pressure when the head is attached. Can be switched over as a booster for fitting tubeless tyres
Lezyne: Steel Digital Drive
85 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: Pumps very smoothly and impresses with other details such as a long flexible hose and great workmanship. The screw-on head is well made, but cumbersome for a quick pressure check and precise pressure adjustment
Pedros: Super Prestige
80 Euro >> e.g. available here
ConclusionPump volume and power are well balanced. Very good handling of the pump head with drain valve in the handle. The analogue pressure gauge at the top is easy to see and can be read accurately to 0.2 bar. Solid construction with sturdy metal base.
Pro: Floor pump Team Digital
90 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: Large volume. Requires a little more force, but inflates the tyre with just a few strokes. Adapter inserts in the hollow handle tend to fall out. Head identical to Specialized, shows the pressure when plugged in. No deflation valve for precise pressure adjustment.
Rose: Printmaker BL
45 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: Pumps very well and effectively, shows the pressure when plugged in and has a release button for fine adjustment. The aluminium lever on the head inspires confidence. The wooden handle sits comfortably in the hand. Stable and inexpensive. Only the pressure gauge could be easier to read.
Silca: Pista
129 Euro
Conclusion: Compact design pump with a retro touch. Pumps well, but has a small displacement, a very small base and a pressure gauge that is difficult to read. The eye-catcher is the elaborately manufactured head with pressure valve for easier release of the head.
SKS: Racing compressor
65 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: The classic. Design almost unchanged since 1966. Extremely durable thanks to solid cast iron base and steel tube. But: low displacement, inefficient pump feel, difficult to read pressure gauge. The alternative brass head suits the classic better than the plastic clamp head.
Specialised: Air Tool Sport
40 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: The cheapest pump in the field is compact and impresses with its good pumping performance. The ergonomic handle sits comfortably in the hand. However, two details cost points: The good pump head lacks a pressure release valve and the pressure gauge is difficult to read.
Topeak: Joe Blow Sport III
45 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: Good pumping performance, easy-to-read dial pressure gauge and good value. With a better pump head, it would be at the top of the test: The interchangeable head has no pressure valve and a somewhat awkward clamping mechanism. The pressure line is also a little short.
Zefal: Profile Max FP60 Z-Turn
55 Euro >> e.g. available here
Conclusion: Pumps jerkily and requires an above-average amount of force. The screw-on head is stiff and twists open the pump hose. The pointer manometer has an original magnifying glass, but the plastic base does not inspire much confidence in the long term. Not recommended.
Electric compressor
Electric compressors are even better than floor pumps - at least for an intensively used workshop. But are they also worth buying for private use? The pros and cons of electric helpers
Electric compressors are one of those tools that, once you've tried them, you won't want to be without. You don't drill holes with a hand drill, even if you only rarely drill holes. With plenty of air, everything to do with tyres is easier. Checking the pressure and adjusting it precisely is a piece of cake with a proper compressor. It takes more time to open the valves than to re-inflate the tyres. So if you own more than one or two bikes or look after and maintain significantly more bikes (club, family, neighbourhood), you will remain loyal to the electric compressor. You bet?
This is especially true if you maintain tyres that notoriously lose pressure: Latex or lightweight inner tubes and tubeless systems, for example. A pressure check before every ride is part of the routine. The compressor is more tolerant of leaks when inflating tyres. Even valve rubbers that are no longer completely tight can still be used for a while with excess air if necessary. Guiding the pump head with one hand and adjusting the pressure with the other - and all this with a long air line - becomes a natural sequence of movements. Pump heads and pressure gauges can be put together to create your personal dream combination so that you can work in a relaxed and precise manner from now on.
The compressor is of course also suitable for other jobs. Professional mechanics love to dry the wheels with compressed air after washing them. There are also numerous applications for pneumatic tools such as pneumatic screwdrivers. It can also be used to inflate balloons or rubber animals with ease.
The main disadvantage of electric machines, apart from the higher costs, is the noise. Most compressors are loud, some are hellishly loud. Definitely not for the close neighbourhood. But there are alternatives: Whisper compressors are drastically quieter than normal compressors and can be used in a normal living environment - although they don't always whisper either, even when it says so on the label.
The quiet ones are more expensive and less powerful, but absolutely recommendable. You can find fairly quiet pressurisers from around 200 euros. The devices then already have a small tank of nine to twelve litres - sufficient for small pressure surges. The 24-litre class is more advisable for fitting tubeless systems. If you have space, you can opt for 50 litres of air volume and are therefore on the safe side for most applications. The performance of the compressor determines how quickly the tank is refilled and how large the possible air flow is for air-hungry tools. For jobs around the bike, however, the continuous air flow is irrelevant; the tank volume is more important here.
Electric compressors require little maintenance. Draining condensate from time to time and keeping an eye on the oil level in oil-lubricated models is all that needs to be done. In our experience, the devices run for decades with moderate use.
