Alpe d'Huez: Our first-hand account – this is what the legendary 21 bends are really like

There is hardly any climb in cycling whose name carries more weight than Alpe d’Huez. Even people who otherwise only follow the sport during the Tour de France get going. When my colleague and I had the chance to ride the climb ourselves during the Tour de France, our expectations were understandably high. After all, Alpe d’Huez is regarded as one of the sport’s true legends. Yet within the first few kilometres at the latest, a surprising realisation dawned: perhaps the myth is actually a little greater than the mountain itself.

Alpe d’Huez: A climb that’s simply a joy

That’s not meant to sound negative in any way. Quite the opposite. Alpe d’Huez is a beautiful climb. The road is wide, the tarmac is excellent and the gradient is steady enough to help you find a good rhythm quickly. Instead of constantly having to battle against brutal inclines, you can actually really enjoy the climb – at least as long as you’re not having to ride it in a race.

Added to this is the stunning scenery. With every bend, new views of Bourg-d’Oisans and the surrounding mountains open up. Especially in the morning, when the sun slowly shines into the valley, the view is simply breathtaking. Time and again, we found ourselves briefly taking our eyes off the road to enjoy the scenery. From a purely cycling perspective, Alpe d’Huez is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful climbs that any road cyclist should experience at least once.

The real magic lies elsewhere

And yet: anyone who judges a climb solely on the road and the scenery will find climbs of similar or even greater beauty elsewhere. What really sets Alpe d’Huez apart lies elsewhere.

You could already feel the atmosphere in Bourg-d’Oisans. The whole town seemed to revolve solely around cycling that day. Road cyclists were riding through the streets everywhere, and there was a slight sense of tension in the air due to the upcoming Tour stage. You can tell straight away that people who share the same passion are gathering here.

You can feel this special atmosphere right from the very first few metres of the climb. Although we’d been on the road for many hours before the professionals arrived, there were already plenty of fans lined up along the route, either in their cars or in tents. Motorhomes had long since taken up their positions, camping chairs were set up, and everywhere there was a sense of anticipation for the big moment that afternoon.

When every cyclist is cheered on

What was remarkable was that the focus wasn’t solely on the professionals. Amateur cyclists were cheered on too. Time and again, we heard shouts from spectators encouraging us, even though we had nothing to do with the actual race.

That is precisely what creates the feeling of being part of something bigger. For a few hours, the lines between fans, amateurs and professionals become blurred. Everything revolves around the bike and a passion for the sport. It’s hard to put this atmosphere into words. You have to experience it for yourself.

It is the fans who make the legend of Alpe d’Huez

Little by little, the hairpin bends filled with fans; it’s hard to imagine the crowds without having seen them for yourself. Of course, the 21 bends are famous. Of course, countless Tour stories have their origins here. But without the fans, the climb would probably be just one of many Alpine passes.

It is the people lining the roadside who make Alpe d’Huez a legend. The thousands of spectators who wait for hours for the riders. The enthusiasm with which every attack is celebrated. And the sheer volume of the cheering that literally propels the professionals up the mountain.

Conclusion: It’s not the mountain, but the experience

Alpe d’Huez is an outstanding climb, no question about it. It offers a lovely road, stunning views and exactly the sort of climb that road cyclists love to tackle. However, that alone does not explain its legendary status.

What really makes Alpe d’Huez so special is the unique atmosphere surrounding the Tour de France. The passion of the people in Bourg-d’Oisans, the fans lining the route and the enthusiasm for cycling all combine to turn a very beautiful mountain into a true legend. Anyone who cycles up Alpe d’Huez experiences a magnificent climb. Anyone who cycles up Alpe d’Huez during the Tour de France experiences far more than that.