THE WHEEL
Even if the differences seem small at first glance, cyclocross and road racers are different types of bikes in detail. The frame equipment depends on the intended use and components, so cantilever or disc brakes require different mounts than road bike calipers. Wider tyres also require space, the fork clearance is larger and the wheelbase is longer. Cable guides that are exposed to as little dirt as possible and do not press on the shoulder when carrying the bike are practical - the shift cables are therefore usually routed on the top tube. The geometry also differs from the classic road bike. The top tube is around one centimetre shorter, so the rider sits a little less stretched out and has better control over the bike. A slacker steering angle, together with the longer rear triangle, makes the handling intentionally sluggish - for better directional stability on soft or rough terrain. The bottom bracket sits slightly higher to increase ground clearance over obstacles. Carbon has also established itself as a material for lightweight bikes in the mid-range cyclocross segment. Extreme lightweight construction is not practised, however, so that the frames can also withstand light falls. Robust, anodised aluminium frames with less sensitive surfaces are standard for inexpensive bikes; individualists opt for steel or titanium.
GEARS AND BRAKES
All three component suppliers for road bikes - Campagnolo, Shimano and SRAM - have special or customised cyclocross components in their range. These differ from the road groupsets in terms of gear ratios and brakes. If you are used to a certain gear system, you can also equip your cross bike with it. The 46/36-tooth chainring gradation typical of cross bikes makes sense for competitions, while a compact crank with 50/34 teeth may be the better choice for hobby riders, especially if climbs are longer and steeper than on a cross circuit. Disc brakes are state of the art today, but not every gear can be combined with every brake - there are limitations here.
CAMPAGNOLO
The Italians offer a carbon crankset with a crossta-compatible gradation for their triple-gear systems as well as a wide range of wheels in their CX line. The components largely correspond to the road models, but have better sealed bearings. None of the wheels are yet designed for disc brakes, just as Campa only offers cantilever brakes so far. If you want to ride Italian shifting technology with disc brakes, you have to combine the road bike levers with mechanical disc brakes from other suppliers or a hydraulic adapter.
SHIMANO
The Japanese market leader offers cranks with a 46/36 gradation for the new eleven-speed generation of Ultegra and 105, as well as two ten-speed models with the same gradation that are not assigned to a specific groupset. Only a compact crank with 50/34 is currently available for the top-of-the-range Dura-Ace groupset. Shimano offers mechanical disc brakes in different quality levels, which can be easily combined with the road bike levers - whether mechanical or electronic. Hydraulic brakes can also be used with electric or mechanical shifting: There are levers for both versions that are not assigned to a specific groupset and are technically on a par with Ultegra.
SRAM
The only supplier with a special cyclocross groupset - the Force CX-1 is designed exclusively for cross bikes. Special features include a single chainring without a front derailleur, an eleven-speed sprocket with a wide gradation and a modified mountain bike rear derailleur, which reduces chain slap off-road. The levers (right with, left without shift mechanism) are available for mechanical or hydraulic brakes. The groupset includes hydraulic disc brakes; suitable mechanical discs or cantilever brakes are available from the subsidiary brand Avid. A cross bike can also be built with the lightweight top-of-the-range Red groupset or the more affordable Rival components, for which corresponding gear ratios and brake systems are also available.
Brake systems from other suppliers
If you want to benefit from the advantages of disc brakes but don't want to opt for an expensive, fully hydraulic system from Shimano or SRAM, you can use either purely mechanical or semi-hydraulic systems. There is now a wide range of mechanical brakes on offer (see TOUR Test 2/2014), one test winner and best buy is the TRP HyRd, which is controlled by a Bowden cable but brakes hydraulically. Fully hydraulic disc brakes can be combined with classic road bike levers using an adapter located under the stem (e.g. Trickstuff Doppelmoppel or Hope V-Twin).
TYRES AND PEDALS
PEDALS
Another difference between road and cross bikes are pedals and shoes. As crossers often have to dismount and carry the bike, road bike shoes and pedals are impractical. Mountain bike pedals are the order of the day, they also work better when mud or snow clog up the mechanics. A purchase tip from our BIKE colleagues are the inexpensive Shimano SPD pedals from the Deore or SLX groupset. These work no worse than more expensive models.
TYRES
One of the most important questions when it comes to cyclocross is the choice of tyres: The tread determines how well you can cope with the respective surface. The range extends from semi-slick tyres with an untreaded tread for firm and smooth surfaces to pronounced studded tyres for mud, sludge and snow. If you don't want to change tyres all the time, the latter are recommended as all-round tyres - it's better to have a little more resistance on easy terrain than risk a fall on slippery surfaces. Cross tyres are available in widths of 30 to 40 millimetres. The wider the tyres, the safer the ride - with 32 millimetres being the maximum for competitions according to UCI regulations. A narrow 30-millimetre cross tyre (e.g. Schwalbe CX Comp) also fits many a road bike - an option for the curious who just want to try it out.
If you use your crosser as an everyday, touring or training bike, you will be fine with standard clincher tyres, which are easy to change and can be refloated with a spare tube in the event of a puncture. In competition, tubular tyres glued to special rims are still the better choice, as they can be ridden with less pressure and therefore offer less rolling resistance and better grip off-road. However, the handling is complex: The tyres have to be glued to the rim, a puncture is virtually irreparable and therefore expensive, and changing them involves a cumbersome procedure. Professionals therefore have several sets of wheels for different conditions.
TIPS FOR YOUR OUTFIT
CLOTHING
Cross-country cycling requires freedom of movement and protection from the cold and wet. It also doesn't hurt if the clothing is a little more robust than the thin lycra bibs from road racing. The traditional onion principle always works. Wind and water-repellent stretch material like that used by Castelli for its Gabba and Nanoflex lines (short-sleeved jersey and arm warmers in the photo on the right) or Santini for the Acquazero range (knee warmers) keeps you warm and dry. The Assos mountain bike trousers are much more robust than those used by road riders and can be upgraded with protectors to protect against crash injuries. Several suppliers have thicker and lined materials in their jerseys and trousers range (so-called Roubaix quality). A recommendation for wet days, as a supplement to the rain jacket, are short rain trousers that can be pulled over.
In the picture Castelli Gabba jersey, 150 euros, Nanoflex arm warmers, 35 euros, www.castelli-cycling.com
Assos T.rally shorts, 300 euros, www.assos.com
Santini Acquazero knee warmers, 45 euros, www.santinisms.it
RACE CAP
The racing cap is not only an indispensable fashion accessory in cross-sport, it also makes sense functionally: it protects the head under the helmet in the cold season. The Giro cap is even made from functional fibres and dries quickly.
In the picture Giro Peloton Cap, 30 euros, www.giro.com
BRILLE
Goggles are mandatory in the terrain to protect your eyes from flying stones, dirt or branches hanging in your tracks. Make sure they fit securely. Clear or contrast-enhancing lenses are particularly good for autumn and winter. Glasses with lenses that adjust to the brightness are comfortable but expensive.
In the picture Uvex 202 Small Race Vario, 140 euros, www.uvex-sports.com
GLOVES
Long-fingered gloves are a must for mountain bikers, even in the height of summer, as they not only protect your hands from the cold, but also from injuries when riding through the botany. Padded palms, protectors on the top and touchscreen-sensitive fingertips that can also be used to operate smartphones and sat navs are good.
In the picture Roeckl Marlengo, 50 euros, www.roeckl.de
SHOES
Mountain bike shoes are used to match the pedals - the profiled soles make off-road riding easier and safer. Even if the whole body works harder in cross sport: Your feet are the first to get cold. Depending on the time of year, waterproof, warm winter shoes are recommended, whereas warm overshoes are rather impractical in the mud and also break very quickly.
In the picture Northwave Extreme Winter GTX, 270 euros, www.northwave.com
