"Gravel road bikes are a kind of hybrid between a crosser and a road racing bike and are supposedly all the rage in North America," wrote the Tour less than ten years ago. According to one narrative, the American road system was responsible for the emergence, or at least for the further evolution of the bike in the direction of a "fast bike for all surfaces": in many US states, you can find asphalt roads on the highways that are ideal for racing bikes. The smaller connecting roads, on the other hand, are dominated by coarse gravel, which is known as "gravel" in English.
This genuine all-road bike is a kind of hybrid between a cyclocross bike, road bike and mountain bike. However, it also has a real-life predecessor - the monster cross bike, which was fitted with mountain bike tyres by some manufacturers at the end of the noughties. The monster cross bike combined the performance of a road bike with off-road capability on wider tyres than cyclocross. At this time, the trend towards 29-inch tyres in mountain bikes also became popular, which gave the manufacturers of monster cross bikes the opportunity to use corresponding tyres. The frame geometry had to offer plenty of space for wide tyres, which seemed somewhat disproportionate at the time.
In 2008, the American pioneer Salsa Cycles launched the Fargo, a concrete forerunner of the gravel bike. At the time, it was still referred to as an adventure bike. With its very wide 29-inch tyres, the bike was intended to be suitable for both long-distance racing and off-road riding. As a true adventure bike, it already had many mounting options for pannier racks, bottle cages and the first bolt-on panniers.
By the way: Nowadays it sometimes seems as if the number of mounting options on a gravel bike is a sign of its suitability for adventure and the adventurous spirit of the owner. A bike with such a dotted frame and fork awakens the desire for freedom and adventure in the same way that cargo trousers awaken the desire to go hiking. And of course there is also something to it in a figurative sense...
Although many cross fans were quick to ride their racing bikes on the road - thanks to more stable components and the more comfortable 33-millimetre tyres from cross sport compared to the 20-millimetre-wide road tyres common at the time - one decisive development was missing to turn the cross bike into today's gravel bike: the disc brake, as was already available on the Salsa, for example. The biggest problem with cross bikes were the cantilever brakes on the narrow rims, which were more for professionals.
Difficult to adjust, requires a familiarisation phase when dosing and requires demanding maintenance. It is very unreliable in wet and dirty conditions. But with the transfer of disc brakes from MTB and trekking bikes to gravel bikes, this bike finally became socially acceptable. The possibility of precise modulation and high braking power paved the way for a broader user base for gravel bikes. Perhaps the bike was also a response to the growing call for freedom and adventure, which has become louder and louder in recent years, but may not have been sufficiently recognised by cross-country MTBs.
A simple answer would be: A gravel bike is a bike with drop-bar handlebars and tyres that are around 35 to 55 millimetres wide. The tread pattern of the tyres can range from light tread on the edges to medium-tread mountain bike tyres. The geometry of the gravel bike is usually somewhere between a road bike and a sporty trekking bike, as is the riding position. The drop-bar handlebar has contributed significantly to the diversity of the gravel bike, which would have been almost unimaginable ten years ago. The handlebar ends can be anything from not curved at all to flared outwards so that the wrists feel like they are gripping a Dutch bike.
The height difference between the two grip positions on the handlebars varies from a few centimetres when switching between the upper and lower handlebars to twelve or more centimetres, which are typical dimensions for racing handlebars. The brakes are operated exclusively with disc brakes, usually with a diameter of 160 mm. Hydraulic brakes are used almost everywhere, with only some entry-level models using purely mechanical brakes or a combination of both systems.
Of course, the frames have also undergone changes. For years, little-changed cross frames were used as a design template for the new gravel bikes. However, independent developments were soon introduced to ensure robustness. More emphasis was also placed on rear triangle clearance and comfort by introducing specially moulded seat tubes and rear stays. In addition, the rapidly increasing number of eyelets on bikepacking bikes are increasingly being used, leading to a general trend towards greater robustness of the frame and fork.
But I like it a bit deeper in nature. It's much quieter, but can be just as intense - and I work on my riding technique. - Steffi (44) does a lot of sport: weight training, running, swimming. Her gravel season: autumn/winter.
Back in 2016, Rondo launched a versatile all-rounder with adjustable geometry. The Ruut, which is still available, was not only a compromise between road and off-road, but could also be adapted to different terrains. By being able to change the position of the front axle, it was possible to achieve both smoother and livelier handling and also position the bottom bracket higher. This gave rise to hybrids such as suspension and even full-suspension gravel bikes, which were able to compete with mountain bikes on some routes. Incidentally, this also applied uphill: the gear ratios of cyclocross bikes were soon replaced by those from the mountain bike sector and ever shorter gears were adapted.
A common feature on rear wheels today is a 50-tooth life ring. A reduction occurs when the chainring is smaller than the largest sprocket. For example, this can be the case with a 42 to 44 tooth configuration and is now standard. Interestingly, single gears are becoming increasingly popular on gravel bikes and classic adventure bikes. The front derailleur and the second chainring are no longer required.
However, this does not mean that twelve gears (from Shimano and Sram) or 13 gears (Campagnolo) are the upper limit. In the high-price segment, the Powershift hub from Classified is becoming increasingly popular. This encapsulated two-speed gear system in the rear hub replaces the small chainring at the front. The advantages of this hub for gravel bikes with the same system weight are that it is maintenance-free, easy to shift and can shift under load.
At the beginning of the bikepacking era, bags were usually attached with Velcro or straps. Nowadays, however, there are also solutions with eyelets on the frame and screws to attach the bags in various places. Many manufacturers have now integrated eyelets on the top and down tubes as well as on the fork legs. The advantage of this attachment method is that the bags can be attached easily and securely without them being easily stolen. However, these are often more expensive special solutions. However, the basic rule is: whatever you like is allowed. A gravel bike with lots of bags definitely gives the observer an adventurous atmosphere.
But what if you could motorise the gravel bike and put an "E-" on top? The electrification of gravel bikes is popular with many. The use of small, lightweight motor systems means that the additional weight is relatively low, which makes the gravel bike even lighter. E-gravel bike retains its easy handling. However, the motor provides support when the uphill becomes too steep or too long. In contrast to the classic e-bike, the motor is only used when it is really necessary. This makes it particularly attractive for bikepacking tours with additional luggage. Many manufacturers also offer battery packs that can be attached to the bottle cage and thus enable longer tours.
The range of applications for gravel bikes is extremely diverse, just like the selection of models. Whether you are a commuter, looking for a sporty everyday bike, a long-distance rider or love adventure tours - there is a gravel bike to suit everyone. Even Race gravel bikes for the increasingly popular gravel races are now available. And the best thing about it: getting into this bike category is easier than almost any other. You can simply start riding and develop your riding style as required.
I came to gravel cycling via commuting. That was no fun with a road bike in terms of luggage and bad roads. I wanted something more flexible, even for bad roads. - Fabian Desalvo (40) used to be a pure racing cyclist. In fact, he now rides 23 kilometres to the office on his gravel bike as training.
For beginners, it is often crucial to feel a touch of adventure without having to be a reckless biker with rough tyres. The dream of the freedom of being able to ride almost anywhere and discover places that you would otherwise never see is tempting. Then there's the fun of riding and the intense experience of nature when cycling in remote places where others can't go.
A classic all-rounder gravel bike makes it easy for beginners: it offers less hectic handling than a road bike and is almost as easy to control as a step-through bike. However, the drop bar, also known as racing handlebars, remains a challenge for many. It requires a forward-leaning riding position, although the riding position on a road bike can still be a long way from this. This riding position is not only easy to adopt for experienced road cyclists, but also very comfortable, especially in the moderate version of a gravel bike. Many beginners also find the racing handlebars great.
Big but: For those who are not used to this posture, it is important to approach it slowly. This applies in particular to the ergonomic support of the upper body via the arms and the hyperextension of the neck. It is advisable to familiarise yourself with short distances first before embarking on an extended tour. Another point concerns steering and shifting gears on the drop bar.
These processes are not much more complicated than with trekking bike handlebars, but they do require some practice and confidence in an unfamiliar riding position. It is best to gradually approach the limits, both when braking and when cornering. If you want to gravel bike, you should familiarise yourself with the special features. This includes, for example, practising braking manoeuvres on different surfaces to find out when the front or rear wheel locks up or loses contact with the ground.
It's great for relaxing and makes a huge difference to road cycling. There's no hustle and bustle, you're more protected than in traffic and yet you're still sporty. - Michael (43) and Claudia (39) love cycling through the woods.
The riding technique for gravel biking is largely similar to mountain biking. Experienced mountain bikers only need to get used to gravel bikes slightly in order to be able to ride them in a relaxed manner. However, it is important to get used to the racing handlebars and the different operation of the gears and brakes. Gravel bikes are often equipped with less efficient brake systems than MTBs. As a rule, four-piston brakes are used on MTBs, while two-piston brakes with smaller discs, which do not offer the same efficiency, are often used on gravel trails. Another significant change concerns the terrain:
The classic gravel rider has no suspension, while the MTB rider is at least used to a suspension fork and often a full suspension system. In addition to the fundamentally different choice of terrain, there is also the difference in riding style: While small terrain steps on an MTB are simply ridden over with confidence in the suspension, the gravel rider takes the speed out and takes the weight off the front and rear wheels one after the other. So why should MTB riders opt for a gravel bike? For many, it means less adrenalin and more relaxation. The flow, the smooth and swift gliding along on winding gravel paths, has a special appeal. There is less adrenaline than on an MTB, mainly caused by the jumps, but a lot of enjoyment of nature.
Here the wish is often simple: more options! It would be great not to have to turn back if the route planning was once again inaccurate and the route supposedly had to end on a rough dirt track. It would be great not to have to change the route just because the tarmac turns to gravel and forest floor in between or a long section of rough cobblestones has crept in that can't be removed without stress. Or - perhaps even the best thing - to finally be able to go for a ride and find a nice route that takes you through forests and across fields that you wouldn't otherwise have been able to experience. Even more of a nature experience.
A trekking bike rider expects a more active riding experience and more speed on familiar routes. Of particular interest here is the perspective of the lower handlebars, which may be less familiar to the rider but arouses their curiosity. As for beginners, the same applies here: get used to the handling and reaction of the bike. At the same time, the experienced cycle tourer may be looking forward to a new way of travelling with luggage: with bikepacking, the bike takes centre stage and the bags are attached directly to the frame - in contrast to the trekking bike, where the luggage rack is determined by the standardised bags. One advantage of this is that the handling remains largely balanced, as the centre of gravity is in the middle of the bike.
Above all, planning your journey is much easier - you don't have to worry about the condition of the roads. And it's also perfect when partners are of different strengths. - Tobias (45) only started cycling again in 2019 - first on a trekking bike and now also on an e-gravel bike. He tours a lot with his girlfriend, even on holiday.
Why go to the trouble of attaching lots of small panniers to the frame, handlebars and fork instead of using two large ones on the pannier rack? Of course, gravel bikes often don't offer the option of attaching a pannier rack. But anyone who has ever travelled with heavy panniers on a challenging dirt track knows that they put a lot of strain on the rear triangle and the rear wheel on uneven terrain. In addition, the centre of gravity shifts backwards, which makes the bike more difficult to control, especially on uneven terrain. The front wheel carries too little weight, which makes the bike unsafe off-road. However, if you use bikepacking panniers and put them together cleverly, you can transport a similar amount and largely avoid the problems mentioned.
That's right, packing requires a system and time. You have to think carefully about what goes where. It is also important to have bags that are specially adapted for the bike. This makes the bike considerably heavier, but it is almost as easy and relaxed to ride as without luggage. If you distribute your luggage in the handlebar roll, possibly also in the pair of fork bags, the bag for the frame triangle and the large saddle bag, you can achieve a very balanced weight distribution. A pleasant side effect of bikepacking is that you can learn to get by with less: "Do I really need slippers? And a second towel?" As a bikepacker, you often only realise how little we really need to feel comfortable on the road.