"Haven't you got anything with you?" Photographer Jörg alludes to my light luggage. At least a windbreaker wouldn't be a bad idea in the Allgäu - the weather can change quickly this close to the Alps. But the sky is cloudless and the weather app says it's going to be a beautiful day. The morning sun is still low in the sky when we set off from Marienplatz in the centre of Immenstadt. "S Städtle", as we say here, is bustling, with school buses and cars filling the streets.
We escape the city traffic on cycle paths and soon head south on quieter side roads, where a pretty toll road will lead us into the mountains - into a high valley that we locals call the same name as the hamlet belonging to Oberstdorf that lies up there: Rohrmoos. On the way there, we pass villages with names like Ofterschwang or Bolsterlang, where the odd old wood-panelled or shingled Allgäu farmhouse still stands. In front of us: the Alpine panorama with its wooded walls and large rocky peaks. So far the route has been hilly, but the few climbs remain moderate.
We don't have to get out of the saddle for the small ramp before Tiefenbach either - and yet it is special because the narrow road winds between high rock faces here. The rocks come so close that we could touch them as we pass. The rock gate feels like the entrance to another country, to a silent and deserted place.
Revel in memories
After Tiefenbach, we turn west towards Rohrmoos. At first we cross open pastureland, with shingled wooden houses to the left and right, and in a hamlet we pass a pretty little chapel. My anticipation for the next section increases. I know the route inside out. In winter, one of the most beautiful cross-country ski trails in the Allgäu runs along it. I still remember the many hard training sessions I completed there every winter as a young competitive biathlon athlete at the Immenstadt Ski Club. But the high valley, flanked by cliffs to the south, also appeals in summer with its seclusion.
We pass the last houses and enjoy the sweeping views of the mountains. Directly in front of the toll booth, a farmhouse sells all kinds of junk: Wooden sledges, farmhouse cupboards, picture frames, wheelbarrows and much more. Every time I pass by here, I have to smile. It looks like a pile of junk that seems to be growing more and more. No wonder: the cyclists and hikers passing by can't take anything with them.
We pass the toll booth and the road immediately climbs noticeably. Apart from short ramps, however, climbers are not really challenged here: Over the next seven kilometres, the toll road climbs just under 250 metres. At the top, it winds its way through the Rohrmoostal valley, where we don't encounter a car for many kilometres - and cyclists are also few and far between. The panorama has changed up here. Further down, the mountains were still distant; here, the nearby rocks of the Gottesackerwände tower 2,000 metres into the sky and block the view to the south. We are surrounded by trees, green meadows and grazing cows.
Unnoticed to Austria
Without realising it, the little road soon takes us into Austria, where after two short intermediate climbs, the long descent leads to Hittisau. The small village with its wooden shingled houses invites us to stop for a bite to eat, but it's still too early for us. We fill up our bottles at the cast-iron village fountain in the centre of the village and head back to Germany. After almost 20 kilometres, in Oberstaufen, we stop for a coffee - and I know a nice and quiet rest area in the middle of the town from many previous trips with friends. A short time later, we are sitting in the garden in front of the Café Blaues Haus with home-baked cake.
Most of the metres in altitude and kilometres are behind us. Ahead of us: the foothills of the Alps, a picture-book Allgäu with fine roads and pretty villages that lead us north, almost as far as Isny, then over a final climb, the Stixnerjoch (950 metres). The climb isn't hard per se, but a nasty headwind slows us down on the long straight before the last stitch to the pass. A thunderstorm is brewing - and I have no weather protection with me. So now it's time to get home quickly and get the last bit of energy out! From the highest point, we plunge into the long descent to Immenstadt.
Ahead of us lies the foothills of the Alps, a picture-book Allgäu with fine roads and pretty villages
Love-hate relationship on the Grünten
A thunderstorm rolls in overnight and it pours the next day. The planned second round to the north-east, towards Füssen, is therefore cancelled for the time being. I make up for it two days later. This time I am accompanied by my father, who got me into road cycling as a teenager. Back then, he took me on one of my first road bike tours to the Königssträßle, which runs along the nearby Grünten (1738 metres) from Burgberg towards Wertach. The steep little road is also the tough start to our tour today. After the start in Immenstadt, there is hardly any time to roll in: after just a few kilometres, the road in Burgberg climbs steeply like a launch ramp on the Grünten: the computer shows 18 per cent. I have a kind of love-hate relationship with this narrow road. Because on my first time there, I had doubts about making it to the top. I knew the gradient from mountain biking and hiking, but on a road bike it seemed much steeper and unrideable. But when I did manage the climb, I was overjoyed - but I also understood why friends always said about my father: "With Michl it's allat nüf."
Further up, on flatter stretches, the Sträßle gives us magnificent views of the Allgäu Alps as a reward for the climb. Then they disappear into the forest behind the Dreiangelhütte. My father drives ahead. "Come on, stay on, pull over the crest!" he calls behind us. How often I've heard him say that ... But it always works. I keep up - and although we're riding in the cool shade, my eyes are dripping with sweat.
Shortly before the apex, an e-biker casually passes us. We pedal even harder and after just a few metres downhill we have caught up with him again. The high speed is fun. We continue northwards at a brisk pace, mostly on minor roads and over gentle undulations. After our tour turns south again, we can see the mountains again. In front of them, in the hollows of the ridges, small lakes glisten as we roll through pretty villages and hamlets, sometimes consisting of just two houses. "We have it nice here," says my father. "Living where other people go on holiday." I can only agree with him: Every ride on a road bike here is a little holiday.
Allgäu - Information
Journey
Railway
Immenstadt is well connected: From Frankfurt am Main by ICE to Ulm, then by regional express (RE) to the destination in four hours; from Munich by RE direct to Immenstadt in 1.5 hours. Bicycle transport on the ICE (if possible) is subject to reservation and costs nine euros within Germany; the bicycle ticket is also valid on the RE.
Car
It is 400 kilometres from Frankfurt am Main to Immenstadt and 150 kilometres from Munich.
Bike service
Immenstadt, Alpsee Bikes, Phone 08323/2078830, www.alpsee-bikes.com
Bike shop with competent service and workshop. If possible, small repairs are carried out immediately and quickly.
Food & Drink
Immenstadt, Schlosswirtschaft, Phone 08323/2078840, www.schlosswirtschaft.com
Centrally located, rustic ambience: Today's restaurant was built in 1550 as an official residence and later extended into a castle. It serves meat dishes typical of the Allgäu region, as well as fish, cheese patties and vegetarian cabbage rolls.
Acams (7 km north of Immenstadt), To the Merry Stag, Telephone 08323/4915, www.lustiger-hirsch.de
This family-run business serves traditional Allgäu cuisine in its cosy inn and in the beer garden in summer. Our tip: Kässpatzen evening - preparation in the parlour and as many seconds as you can manage.
Accommodation
Stone, (2.5 km north of Immenstadt), Hotel Krone, Telephone 08323/96610, www.hotel-krone-stein.de
Modern, cosy family-run hotel. The bed+bike accommodation, certified by the German Cyclists' Association, has a bike workshop and a locked bike room. The evening menu offers Allgäu cuisine, vegetarian and vegan dishes. Double room with breakfast (from 7am) from 148 euros.
Don't miss it!
Diepholz, Mountain Farming Museum
The Allgäu Mountain Farmers' Museum is located ten kilometres northwest of Immenstadt at an altitude of 1,037 metres. It explains dairy farming and shows the life of mountain farmers, their way of working yesterday and today. For information, call 08320/9259290 and visit www.bergbauernmuseum.de
Rathlz, Alpsee Bergwelt
The Alpsee Bergwelt leisure area is located seven kilometres west of Immenstadt. You can walk or take the lift from the valley station (760 metres) to the mountain station at an altitude of 1,090 metres. The adventure mountain attracts visitors with the "Bärenfalle", Bavaria's largest high ropes course, an adventure area for children and mountain huts. If you want, you can race 2.8 kilometres downhill on the "Alpsee Coaster", Germany's longest year-round toboggan run. Information by phone 08325/252 and www.alpsee-bergwelt.de
Info
Alpsee-Grünten Tourismus GmbH www.alpsee-gruenten.de
Tourist-Info Immenstadt Phone 08323/9988-77
Map
Cycling and leisure map "Südliches Allgäu", 1:75:000, GeoMap 2019; 8.95 euros.
Tour 1: Lonesome Rohrmoos
106 kilometres, 1500 metres in altitude, max. 10 % gradient
Cycle south on undulating cycle paths and side roads to Tiefenbach, where we climb around 300 metres in altitude to the west via a toll road into the secluded Rohrmoostal valley and thus to the watershed of the Rhine and Danube at an altitude of 1120 metres. There we cycle through forests and meadows, over short climbs and descents, before a long descent leads to Hittisau in Austria. This is followed by 15 relaxed kilometres to Weißach (back in Germany), where a short ramp climbs to Oberstaufen. We continue northwards through undulating terrain until we turn south towards Immenstadt just before Isny. However, the long ascent to the Stixnerjoch (950 metres) takes its toll before the thrilling descent to the finish, including mountain and Alpsee views.
Shortcut: If the detour to Isny is too long for you, keep straight on in Oberstaufen at the railway station (64.3 km), turn right at the next junction to Immenstadt, which you reach via Knechtenhofen.
Rest stop tip: Oberstaufen (a short left at 64.6 km), Blue house Telephone 08386/4476 Café in farmhouse style with a small menu. You can sit comfortably in the garden under the fruit trees. If you're hungry beforehand
Tour 2: View in the Ostallgäu
90 kilometres, 1070 vertical metres max. 18 % gradient
After a few kilometres of rolling in, the toughest climb of the tour begins at the foot of the Grünten in Burgberg, the Königssträßle, which is up to 18 percent steep and rewards you with solitude and magnificent views of the Allgäu Alps in the upper sections. Contrast: The route rushes along a wide road to Wertach and continues flat along cycle paths to Nesselwang. From the northernmost point, the village of Wald, undulating roads lead back via Görisried, Sulzberg and Martinszell. Almost 40 per cent of the elevation gain is right at the start on the Königssträßle, after which there are no long hills, but you have all the time you need to enjoy the view of the Alps on the way home to the south.
Rest tip: Görisried (58.4 km). The Gasthof zum Hirsch Telephone 08302/249, www.hirsch-goerisried.de serves regional, therefore meat-centred cuisine.
