Stage 6: From Castione della Presolana to Valle del Chiese
The heart of this stage is the crossing over the adventurous and challenging Passo Croce Domini. To get there, however, you first have to take an elegant connection back to Val Camonica. The Passo della Presolana leads back over to Dezzo in the Valle di Scalve - once again back on the route of stage 6. Now there is also a direct descent down into Val Camonica to Darfo Boario Terme. However, there is less traffic and, above all, no tunnels on the beautiful country road that leads over a small, inconspicuous pass, the Croce di Salven.
This is a pass without a distinctive pass sign, which you have to look for on the map, otherwise you won't even realise that you've already reached the highest point on the flat stretch across a plateau. At first, this country road leads through a very quiet area. The closer you get to Val Camonica, when the road starts to descend again, the hustle and bustle increases as you pass through larger towns such as Borno or Ossimo. You soon reach the comparatively densely populated valley floor in Malegno, where the bridge leads over the river Oglio to Breno, the main town in the valley.
Lonely area at the TOUR Transalp 2022
With the hustle and bustle down in Breno, it's hard to believe that a road leads from here into the deserted area between Lake Iseo and Lake Idro. Calculated in metres of altitude, it is a long and strenuous climb, but after a few kilometres nowhere awaits up there. Seen from the north, this road is the first way to get past the Adamello massif. Between the Tonale Pass in the north and the Passo Crocedomini, there is no road connecting the west with the east for over 50 kilometres as the crow flies, only mountains up to an altitude of 3,500 metres. It is 230 kilometres by car around this block, one of the most extensive and lonely mountain regions in the Alps.
And here at the southern foothills, this tranquillity is even more palpable than at the lively Tonale Pass in the north. At the top of Crocedomini at 1,895 metres above sea level, you can enjoy this tranquillity to the full - as well as the view of a vast carpet of alpine meadows on the slopes of nameless peaks. And perhaps you will stop at the mountain pasture just after the pass, Malga Cadino, and ask for some cheese. It nestles in a lush green meadow hollow, which is crossed by the road just after the pass. To be precise, after the Goletto di Cadino at 1,940 metres above sea level, the downstream pass, which is less well known but is the actual pass summit.
Departure to Lago d'Idro
From there, it's still a long way out of this lonely region. The route continues past the Gaver ski lifts, relics from a time when there was even more snow in winter, until you reach the village of Bagolino in the long Val Caffaro. Only now do you descend quickly to Ponte Caffaro at the end of the valley and on the northern shore of Lago d'Idro. The lake is something like Lake Garda's little brother. It is only about ten kilometres long and two kilometres wide, but just like in Riva del Garda or Torbole, surfers here on the beach of Idroland on the northern shore look forward to the reliable "Ora", the wind that regularly blows up the sails at midday. But even without the wind, it is a marvellous bathing lake that warms up to 25 degrees in summer.
At the Idroland sunbathing lawn, the Chiese flows into the lake, the river that gives its name to the valley where this stage ends. To reach the destination of Roncone, however, you still have to cycle up the valley a good distance. But it doesn't end there, because the Chiese valley forms an unusual formation. The river that gives the valley its name flows in from a side valley. The village of Roncone itself lies on the Sella Giudicarie, the saddle that connects the Chiese Valley with the neighbouring Val Rendena. The valley is therefore open on one side at the top. And almost at the very top of this saddle, at the finish, there is another lake, Lago di Roncone. It is much, much smaller than Lake Idro, more of a pond. But big enough to dangle your legs in after this long stage.
You can stop off here
From Castione to Val Camonica, the route leads through larger towns such as Borno with a selection of bars and restaurants. In Val Camonica, the route continues through Breno, a town with a good selection of places to stop for refreshments. The route then becomes lonelier on the way to Passo Croce Domini. Up to the top of the pass the hut of the same name invites you. The next larger town on the way to Lago d'Idro with bars and restaurants is Bagolino and down by the lake you don't have to look far to find a restaurant in Ponte Caffaro. The Lido Beach Bar on the shore of Lago di Roncone is the perfect place for a nightcap. Crispy pizza is served in the restaurant of the Albergo Roncone baked at the top of the main street.
Shortcuts / variants to the original route
There is no shortcut for this stage. One option would be, for example, to start southwards, pay a visit to Lake Iseo, cycle back down the Val Camonica into the valley to Breno and then return to the route of this stage. However, this would make this already challenging stage significantly longer.
The stage as a short trip
If you want to do the stage in one day, you have to take a taxi back. Addresses for taxi companies can be found here.
The stage as part of a round trip (2 to 4 days)
Adventurous cyclists who want to combine this stage into a circular tour can make their way from the southern end of Lago d'Idro through the mountains to Lago d'Iseo. However, it makes sense to end this stage at Lake Idro. The next day, for example, you could spend the night at Lake Iseo and then cycle back to Castione della Presolana on day 3. There are many route options for this and it takes a little patience to plan the route.
Marc Schneider's tip
From Passo Croce Domini, the route spits you out directly on the northern shore of Lago d'Idro. It would be a shame to skip it. So be sure to dive into Lake Idro, for example from the Idroland sunbathing area. This is located at the mouth of the river Chiese in the municipality of Baitoni.
General info
If you want to stay overnight or are looking for other tourist offers, you will find what you are looking for at visitpresolana.it and visitchiese.it. If you need a service for your bike, you can find one at Passo Presolana at Presolana Ski e Bike. Addresses in the Chiese Valley are listed here.
The 6th stage from Castione della Presolana to Valle del Chiese, 118.36 km and 3,239 metres in altitude.
The GPS data will be available for download on the TOUR website after the TOUR Transalp 2022, which takes place from 19-25 June.
If you are still thinking about switching from Touri to Race mode, you can find all the details about the Everyman Race over the Alps at www.tour-transalp.de.
