Slovenia - Laughing and crying eyes
Quiz question: Where could the phrase "with one laughing and one crying eye" come from? That's right, from Slovenia, invented on the penultimate day of the 2020 Tour de France, when the Slovenian Primož Roglič, who had been in the lead up to that point, was robbed of the overall victory by his compatriot Tadej Pogačar in the mountain time trial on the Planche des Belles Filles - at the last minute, so to speak.
Admittedly, the Slovenian invention is of course rubbish. But it's hard to imagine a situation for which this modified quote from Shakespeare's "Hamlet" would fit better. "There was a very strange atmosphere in the country," Matic Gobec, a cycling guide at a sports hotel in the north of Slovenia, tells me. "People really didn't know whether to laugh or cry."
On the one hand, the whole nation was delighted that Pogačar was the first Slovenian to win the world's biggest cycling race. On the other hand, there was at least as much sympathy for the loser Roglič. Matic still feels torn today: "Who knows if Roglič will ever get this chance again."
Slovenia - Hay harps and winding towers
Matic accompanies me on a tour in the mountains around Trbovlje, the birthplace of Primož Roglič, which lies around 80 kilometres south of the border with the Austrian province of Styria. We cycle through Lower Styria (Slovenian: Spodnja Štajerska), one of Slovenia's five historical landscapes. The route takes us over green, wooded undulations interspersed with alpine meadows - a kind of Allgäu, seemingly harmless, but peppered with steep climbs.
Matic turns left into one of them so suddenly that I just manage to push the chain onto the rescue sprocket. From zero to 18 per cent in five seconds! Of course, the local on whose rear wheel I'm hanging on wants to pester me a bit.
Roglič's birthplace
After my panting subsides, Matic, who is in charge of the bike department at the Sporthotel Grof in the small town of Čeplje, tells me that he is mainly out and about with mountain bikers, as most of the hotel guests who come by road bike now ride their tours independently with GPS navigation. But he makes an exception for me today. We're heading south, to Roglič's birthplace, he reveals.
Strictly speaking, the mountains to the south of our starting point, Čeplje, are no longer part of the Alps, but belong to the hilly region of Posavina, which stretches eastwards along the Sava river and soon merges into the Balkan karst with its numerous stalactite caves. The small road that Matic has chosen to get there winds along the hillside through sleepy villages and past lonely farms. Typical of this region are the so-called hayracks, where the freshly mown grass is dried.
We pass the wooden racks, constructed in different ways: sometimes with a hayloft on top, sometimes combined as a shelter for agricultural machinery, sometimes they simply stand like oversized fences in the middle of the meadows. There is even an open-air museum in the south of the country dedicated to the history of hayracks. For us, however, the tranquillity ends abruptly in the small town of Zagorje. We swim in traffic on a wide country road through the narrow Medija valley, where disused winding towers and industrial plants bear witness to the days of coal mining.
Slovenia - flying visit to Roglič
A few kilometres further on, we finally stop at the turn-off to Primož Roglič's parents' house. The tin stand of a Spanish bull, decorated with the dates of Roglič's Vuelta victories, sits enthroned on a pallet of bricks. The little bridge over the Medija river shines in the yellow colour of the Tour de France, flanked by the Olympic rings and a somewhat awkward-looking giant model of a racing bike.
You could almost miss the skis nailed to a tree, a reminder of Roglič's previous career as a ski jumper. "You can't imagine what a roaring reception he received here after returning from the Tour," Matic comments on the backdrop. "And that was back in 2018, when he even narrowly missed out on the podium in fourth place." There is no doubt that the Slovenians are very proud of their country and their two cycling heroes Roglič and Pogačar. It is even said that the varied topography in a small area is one of the reasons for their strong all-round qualities.
Jezerski Vrh
After the flying visit to Rogla, as Roglič fans call their idol, we work our way out of the valley again in low gear. There's no shortage of metres in altitude here - and the tough climbs in the Slovenian Alps are still waiting for me. Mountain roads that you've never heard of outside the country. Unless you've studied the stage plans for the Tour of Slovenia in detail - and have a penchant for tongue twisters. After all, names like Volovljek or Črnivec are not exactly easy to pronounce. After all, the passages to Austria also have somewhat more familiar German names. Like the Seebergsattel, which is called Jezerski Vrh in Slovenia.
The roads to the Golte and Krvavec ski resorts, for example, are among the great unknowns, at least outside Slovenia. Both climbs have no need to shy away from international comparisons in terms of difficulty. This is also the reason why I prefer to speed past the turn-off leading up to the Krvavec ski area the next day. Because my mission, the big loop around the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, already demands enough climbing skill with 3000 metres of altitude.
That's why I skip the detour to Klanec, the home town of the overall winner of the 2020 and 2021 Tour de France: Tadej Pogačar. What a shame, really. I really would have liked to marvel at the new Tour de France yellow roundabout in front of the municipal office. And maybe there are a few curious installations by Slovenian fans there too? For today, I console myself with the idea of travelling on the same roads as the Slovenian champions once did before they moved to Monaco. Perhaps the psychological effect will have an effect on the legs on the upcoming ramps?
Shimmering mountain lake in the valley basin
On the way to Seebergsattel, I keep coming across racing cyclists, some as individuals, then teams of two and even small pelotons in standardised club clothing. Matic had already mentioned yesterday that the sporting successes of Rogla and Pogi in recent years had triggered a small cycling boom in the country. Since 2020, Slovenians have even celebrated a newly created bank holidays in September: the Day of Sport.
By now I'm a good halfway up the ascent to the Seebergsattel and I'm rolling through Zgornje Jezersko. While the ride through the wooded valley has been almost a little boring so far, the panorama that opens up shortly after the village is all the more magnificent. A shimmering mountain lake lies in the valley basin like an amphitheatre, with the vertical walls of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps towering into the sky behind it.
Slovenia - The scenery is a distraction
The chalky white rock pinnacles culminate at the 2558 metre high Grintovec. There's an inn on the shore with a marvellous outdoor seating area, but I'd rather not extend my rest too much, because according to Matic, the toughest section of this tour would now begin. And yes, the gradient immediately picks up noticeably - and the 80 mountainous kilometres that I already have in my legs start to make themselves felt.
From the top of the pass, the next few kilometres run through Austrian territory, which I wouldn't have noticed without the deserted border station. Downhill, the wide serpentines resemble a super-G descent. A good opportunity to gather strength for the ascent to the Paulitschsattel, which climbs mercilessly steep from the start to the saddle. How can 550 metres in altitude hurt so much? And where is the positive energy transfer from Roglič and Pogačar? Fortunately, the scenery is a distraction.
Great cinema! The rock bastion of the Grintovec group is directly opposite you throughout the entire ascent. And after the descent from the Paulitschsattel, there is a detour into the uniquely beautiful Logarska Valley, which leads right into the heart of this wonderful mountain range. One thing is already clear to me: I will leave Lower Styria with two tears in my eyes - or with two smiles in my eyes.
Slovenia - Information
Journey
Railway
The train station of the small town of Celje, located on the major Spielfeld-Stras-Trieste railway line, is 25 kilometres away from our Čeplje location. Connections run via Salzburg, Graz and Maribor or via Salzburg, Villach and Ljubljana. The journey with four to six changes takes eight to ten hours from Munich. Cross-border bike transport requires a reservation, the ticket costs nine euros - bookable at DB travel centres, DB agencies or by telephone on 030/2970.
Car
It is 850 kilometres from Frankfurt am Main to Čeplje: via Munich, Salzburg, the Tauern, Katschberg and Karawanken tunnels (combined toll of 42.60 euros there and back), Ljubljana; or via Passau, Wels (combined toll of 31 euros there and back for the Bosruck and Gleinalm tunnels), Graz, Maribor. In addition, there are Austrian and Slovenian motorway toll stickers for cars: for seven days 9.90 euros and 15 euros respectively.
Best time to travel
Even if there are no official winter closures at the Paulitsch and Seeberg saddles, tours through the Steiner Alps make little sense before the beginning to middle of May. This is because cold snaps are always possible, even in the Southern Alps. From June onwards, however, the cycling season can extend into October. Better to avoid: The upper Savinja Valley in particular is a tourist hotspot in the holiday months of July and August (Logarska Dolina).
Don't miss it!
Old town of Celje
The third largest town in Slovenia with around 50,000 inhabitants was also one of the most important in the Middle Ages, thanks to one of the most influential aristocratic families in Europe in the 14th century: the Counts of Cilli. A visit to their castle is a must, not least because of the fantastic view of the town and valley. As an alternative to studying historical buildings, you can also simply stroll through the old town and enjoy a nice pavement café or two.
Jama Pekel stalactite cave
Slovenia's karst mountains are famous for their numerous caves, especially the huge Postojna cave system in the south of the country (Adelsberg Grotto). Although the Jama Pekel (18 kilometres north-east of Čeplje) is a comparatively small stalactite cave, its underground waterfall and almost intimate atmosphere make it well worth a visit. On the way to the cave, you can admire the excavations of an old Roman cemetery in Šempeter v Savinjski dolini. The tombs were buried for many centuries by mud from a flood.
Info: www.td-sempeter.si (English)
Cycling marathon
The sixteenth edition of the Maraton Alpe starts in Kamnik on 2 July 2023. The 130-kilometre route with around 2000 metres of altitude difference leads over the Seebergsattel, Paulitschsattel and Črnivec passes.
Info: www.maraton-alpe.si (English)
Food & Drink
Meat, sausage and fish: Slovenian cuisine is hearty and savoury. But there are many delicious side dishes that also work as vegetarian or at least low-meat main courses. For example Žlikrofi (dumplings) or Štruklji (cooked strudel dough). Matevž, one of the national dishes, can also be served without meat on request - the ingredients are potatoes, beans, onions and steamed turnips. Soups and stews, of which there are countless variations, are also very popular.
Alongside Matevž, Carniolan sausage (Kranjska Klobasa) is probably the most famous Slovenian dish. But without cheese, please! Because the "Käsekrainer" variant is an Austrian invention. As the touring region lies in the middle of the country's hop centre, the evening beer comes directly from one of the numerous microbreweries. There is a curious opportunity for a beer tasting in the neighbouring village of Žalec: a beer fountain was recently opened in a small park, from which you can draw six different types of beer when you buy a special glass.
Restaurant tips
Čeplje, Grof restaurant, Phone 00386/(0)59233785, grof.eu/en/grof-restaurant
The restaurant belonging to Hotel Grof enjoys an excellent reputation and serves a wide range of regional and international cuisine.
Ljubno-Juvanje (23 kilometres northwest of Čeplje), Šport Center Prodnik, phone 00386/(0)3/8381030, www.prodnik.com
The inn is located on the banks of the river in the Savinja Valley, at the gateway to the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. In the middle of the touring area, it is always a good place to stop for a bite to eat with its covered terrace. It serves a lot of local cuisine, all home-made.
Accommodation
Čeplje (Vransko), Hotel Groftelephone 00386/(0)3/7055550, www.grof.eu
The hotel with its excellent restaurant (see Food & Drink) is a member of "Roadbike Holidays", a group of hotels that specialise in the needs of road cyclists, and offers tailor-made routes with GPS tracks, an in-house workshop and bike hire. Anyone staying at the Grof can hire a gravel bike for 30 euros a day (otherwise 40 euros). Double room with breakfast from 170 euros.
>> More "Roadbike Holidays" hotels at www.roadbike-holidays.com
Bike service
Griže (18 km east of Čeplje), Factory Store d.o.o.Phone 00386/(0)3/7103686, www.factorystore.si
Maps
For tours 1 and 2 "Julian and Kamnik-Savinja Alps" (2801), 1:75,000, Kompass map 2012, 12 euros.
All tours
"Slovenia" (freytag & bernth), 1:150,000, Freytag & Bernth 2020, 13 euros.
Slovenia - General information
Slovenia Tourismtelephone +386/(0)1/5898550, www.slovenia.info
Orientation & Routes
Slovenia lies in the south-east of the foothills of the Alps. Our starting point, the small municipality of Čeplje, lies almost exactly in the middle between the two Slovenian cities of Ljubljana and Maribor, directly on motorway 1. To the east of Čeplje, the valley of the mountain river Savinja widens and forms a huge basin in which, 20 kilometres away, lies Celje, the third largest city in Slovenia (38,000 inhabitants).
The large area of the valley floor is characterised by agriculture, especially the cultivation of hops. The region around the upper Savinja Valley is part of both the high limestone Alps and the Posavina hills, where the peaks reach around 1,000 metres in height. Our touring region belonged to the Duchy of Styria in the Middle Ages, which is why it is known as Lower Styria (Slovenian: Spodnja Štajerska).
Tour character
The highest pass in the touring area is the 1338 metre high Paulitschsattel in the Steiner Alps, which also form a natural border to Austria, as an eastern extension of the much better known Karawanken. The Steiner Alps reach their highest point at the rugged summit of Grintovec at 2558 metres. For climbers, there is a lot of new territory to discover on a racing bike, as the mountain roads only gain a certain popularity, if at all, as part of the Tour of Slovenia. For example, the mountain finishes on Golte and Krvavec, both roads are access routes to ski resorts. Road cyclists must always be prepared for surprises, be it in the form of steep ramps of around 18 per cent or rough potholes. A GPS device helps with orientation on secondary routes that are barely signposted (or signposted in cryptic words).
Tour 1 - Around the Steiner Alps
143 Kilometres | 2900 Altitude metres | max. 13 % gradient
In terms of metres in altitude and difficulty, our royal stage doesn't need to shy away from international comparisons. So that the route doesn't get any harder, we have moved the start from Čeplje to Ljubno ob Savinji (if there is no parking space available in the town centre, you can find one at the sports field on the outskirts, 600 metres away). The route starts in the lovely Dreta Valley, which culminates at the Črnivec saddle (902 metres). After the passage through beautiful mountain villages, two long climbs await: 25 kilometres to the Seeberg saddle (1216 metres) and immediately afterwards five kilometres and 500 metres in altitude to the Paulitsch saddle (1338 m). After these climbs, you could skip the following detour into the Logarska Valley and save 250 metres in altitude - but you would miss out on one of the most beautiful glacier valleys in the Alps.
Tour 2 - Two valleys, two passes
98 Kilometres | 1800 Altitude metres | max. 12 % gradient
Rolling in: Although the main road to Kamnik has become quieter since the motorway was built in the neighbouring valley, there is no alternative. You pass the long town of Kamnik at its northern end before taking the hairpin bends to the Volovljek Pass. Tip: If you want to take a shorter route, you can drive straight ahead towards Gornji Grad on the 900 metre high "pre-pass" Črnivec. Shortly after the village, turn right to rejoin the original route in Šmartno ob Dreti. However, it is worth taking the beautiful Volovljek Pass with you! The descent ends in the village of Luče, which still huddles in the very narrow Savinja Valley. After that, there is a bit more traffic again for around 15 kilometres. The finale over the small but beautiful Lipa Pass is another leg-busting ride.
Tour 3 - Golte mountain prize
97 Kilometres | 2200 Altitude metres | max. 17 % gradient
A rollercoaster of emotions, as the route along the huge coal-fired power station in Šoštanj also shows the industrial face of the region alongside secluded farm tracks. The highlight, at least for climbers, is the almost 14-kilometre climb to the Golte high plateau, where the steepest ramps await on the last two kilometres; a stage of the Tour of Slovenia already ended at the small ski resort. After that, however, the day's workload is far from over. What follows is a marvellous passage through the hills north of the small town of Mozirje. On the short flat section along the coal-fired power station, you need to gather your strength. It's an adventurous ride over waves back into the Savinja valley. Attention: Without our GPS track, orientation in the unsignposted maze of roads is hardly possible.
Tour 4 - Roglič's ramps
59 Kilometres | 1270 Altitude metres | max. 18 % gradient
With Primož Roglič's rise to cycling idol status in the country, his home region around the small town of Trbovlje also attracted attention. After all, it was in these mountains that he gained his first cycling experience. Our route runs above the industrialised Medija Valley, where Roglič's childhood home is located on the opposite side, near the village of Izlake. Even though the region looks more like a low mountain range than the Alps, there are numerous high-percentage ramps that connect the villages on the slope - a constant up and down on sometimes rough tarmac. But that's part and parcel of Slovenia, as is the busy crossing of Trbovlje halfway through the route. The finale on a newly tarmaced panoramic mountain road is all the more beautiful.
