Road bike tours in Moravia: Cycling routes in the little-known east of the Czech Republic
Gero Günther
· 16.09.2022
Text: Gero Günther
I have my first doubts five minutes after we set off. The pavement in Olomouc's Old Town is slippery and uneven. My bike bumps past the High Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings with little elegance. "Maybe a gravel bike would have been better than a racing bike," I say to Peter, the photographer, who everyone only addresses as "Pete". He laughs and lets me rumble past the largest Holy Trinity Column in Europe four times to take his picture. The 34 metre high monumental work is so ornate that it stands out even in this city of magnificent façades, staircases and stucco ceilings. The gilded group of figures at the top glistens in the morning sun as if to prove something to us. It's just before nine and the temperature is six degrees. Luckily I've packed my thick gloves. They will come in very handy on this autumn day.
Moravia is the name of the region that we want to explore from the saddle over the next few days. It lies in the east of the Czech Republic and smells of damp leaves, apples and coal, at least at this time of year. Until the Second World War, more than a quarter of the population was German-speaking, and even Czechs sometimes use the old German place names. And so we take it in turns to drive out of Olomouc or Olmütz, without any revanchist ulterior motives. Especially as Pete comes from a Czech family and grew up speaking the local language.
In the distance, we can see hills rising out of the wide Morava valley. That's where we have to go. The ascent begins at Šternberk, which we delay a little longer with a brief visit to the imposing castle. In the courtyard, the members of a wedding party are cheerfully toasting each other. "Have some, please," says an elderly lady, holding a wicker basket with curls of smoked cheese under our noses. A man in historical costume presents his rifle and puts his tricorn hat on my head. He represents a Prussian soldier, he says in Czech.
Moravian Pampa
We pedal through the brightly coloured autumn forest in serpentines up to the plateau that we have chosen as our destination. The cold wind blows piles of leaves across the road and shakes half-ruined farmsteads. The widely scattered villages we pass through are a wild mixture of farm gardens, collective farms, prefabricated buildings and chapels. The street scene also includes beer-drinking men in camouflage jackets and elderly gentlemen shuffling to the shops in plastic slippers. Sounds like a wild Eastern cliché? Admittedly, but at least here and now they correspond to the facts.
Our path is flanked by rustling cornfields, harvested fields with stubble hairs and leads through forests in which the acid rain has torn gaping wounds. And finally, the tarmac gets bigger and bigger holes and can no longer decide between country road and forest track. We have arrived in the middle of nowhere. Moravian pampas. "Didn't I tell you already," I shout to Pete through the storm: "We should have taken the gravel bikes!"
As if to comment on my objection, a silhouette appears out of nowhere, which I recognise from a distance as a mountain biker. The lone rider comes straight towards us on the piste. Up close, the man turns out to be a scooter rider. Scooter? "Footbiking" is a trend sport in the Czech Republic, explains Ondřej Hysek, who pushes himself up to 70 kilometres a day through the countryside and doesn't shy away from steep climbs. "That guy," says Pete, "makes us look like total hotshots." "I'm still cold," I reply, "and I'm hungry too!" An hour and several metres of altitude later, a Moravian garlic soup is steaming on the table in front of us. The waitress is a shy girl of around 15 and I choose toast with liver and mushrooms as my main course. It could hardly be more hearty.
Thanks to the calories, the world looks a lot friendlier. Even the wind no longer comes from the front, but gives us a friendly pat on the side. We roll along dishevelled lanes through pastures and orchards with renewed vigour. I look forward to the descent and am bitterly disappointed. The road surface is so bad that I wish I had a gravel bike for the third time on this tour.
Lunch at the petrol station
The next day there are also a few bumpy patches on our way through the harsh hilly country to the east of Olomouc. It's lonely here on the edge of a large military training area, so lonely that we have to eat our lunch in a petrol station for lack of alternatives, at least at a table and in a well-heated room. To make up for this, the cream puffs we eat in the historic Lipník in the afternoon are all the more delicious. Unfortunately, time is running out on these short days and the planned detour to the Helfštýn fortress has to be cancelled without further ado. What a pity. Instead, the villages on the way back to Olomouc grin at us like chubby-cheeked children with their pumpkins and corn on the cob. A few short ramps keep us warm, even though the icy wind has long since returned.
Moravia is much lovelier in the region around Mikulov, where we have planned our next two tours. The region on the Austrian border is known as the "Tuscany of the Czech Republic" due to its mild climate and numerous vineyards. Our route takes us past the best vineyards in the country. For most of the day, we are accompanied by the banging of gas-powered guns designed to scare the birds away from the late harvest. And then we glide into an area that is one of the most beautiful landscapes in Moravia: the cultural landscape of Lednice-Valtice. It consists of huge parks with lakes, castles and pleasure buildings that the Princes of Liechtenstein had built here over the centuries. The grounds cover 40,000 football pitches and are home to 680 tree species. And best of all: large parts of the World Heritage Site can and may be travelled by bike.
There is hardly anyone out and about on this Monday morning. And so we slide along a soft earth path to the elegant little pond castle of Lednice and feel as if we've stepped into a Czech fairytale film. The neo-Gothic main castle with its turrets and balconies is only a few kilometres away. The bike has to be pushed between the ornamental flowerbeds, statues and greenhouses, but it's worth taking a princely coffee break before continuing on to the large reservoirs in the north of the Pálava Mountains.
After another section of rough gravel, Pete is finally convinced that a more off-road vehicle would be better suited to his old home. Our racing bikes have no trouble negotiating the numerous gaps in the tarmac, but wider tyres would simply be more fun here. Especially as the paved roads often suddenly become cracked like dishwashing hands. In between, however, there are always brand new cycle paths over which the bike can whirr smoothly. In any case, we can't complain about a lack of variety.
To the hunting lodge "Rendez-vous"
On the last day, we set our sights on the Pálava Mountains, at the foot of which lies the vineyard where we are staying. Pete and I pedal in a loop between the many small plots of land. Up and down. We are only slowed down by the late effects of a wine tasting that we dutifully completed the previous evening. Michal Solarik, a winemaker and racing cyclist himself, had actively supported us in planning today's tour and poured another grape variety at every waypoint we marked on the map. Luckily, the morning is so fresh that the hangover quickly disappears and we end up cycling through the largest wine-growing town in the Czech Republic sober. Nevertheless, we quickly leave behind us the wineries that Michal praised as the main attraction of Velké Bílovice. The sky has changed colour too dramatically in the meantime. At least the thunderstorm rain shows great sensitivity by only starting during our lunch break and promptly stopping after our espresso.
We are back in the chateau grounds of Lednice-Valtice and take another gravel path to reach a peculiar building called "Rendez-vous". The huge triumphal arch lies in the middle of the forest, the former hunting grounds of the princes. "What the heck were those Liechtensteiners thinking?" Pete wonders. We are promptly enlightened by the local forester. He lives with his wife in the western wing of the "Rendez-vous" and lets us climb up a spiral staircase to the upper floor of the hunting lodge disguised as a triumphal arch. There, our cycling shoes slip into felt slippers to protect the fine parquet flooring. The hall, which is richly decorated with stucco and paintings, used to be the meeting place for aristocratic hunting parties. Breakfast was eaten here before the gun was sounded. Given the thousands of flies that have taken refuge in the building since the autumn chill set in and are now buzzing and dying, you could easily shoot a horror film here instead of a historical film.
On the way back, the sun comes out again. We cycle a few more kilometres along the former Iron Curtain and reach our starting point of Mikulov in beautiful sunshine. There is still enough time for a short stroll through the small town with its baroque buildings and the castle where Napoleon once stayed after winning the Battle of Austerlitz. Pete wants to take his last pictures on the steep market square. And again he lets me bump over the humpy cobblestones. "Your home is really great," I say, "but next time we'll take the gravel bikes!" "Ano", says Pete, which means "yes" in Czech.
Moravia, or Morava in Czech, is a region in the east of the Czech Republic. At the beginning of the 11th century, the Moravian Kingdom became a land of the Bohemian Crown and eventually part of the Habsburg Monarchy. In the Czech Republic, Morava is a historical landscape, but not a separate administrative unit. Various low mountain ranges and plains characterised by intensive agriculture define the Moravian region. In the centre is the Morava river basin, also called Morava in Czech. The highest peak is the 1,490 metre high Altvater in the Sudetes. To the south lies the Low Jeseníky plateau (400 to 600 metres), which rises to the Beskids. The White Carpathians lie on the border with Slovakia. We have chosen two historical locations: Olomouc (Olmütz), situated in the floodplains of the Morava River, which was the centre of Moravia until the 17th century, and Mikulov (Nikolsburg), close to the border with Lower Austria.
Journey
Car
From the south via Munich and, depending on the traffic situation, either Vienna or Prague, from the north via Prague to Brno. Olomouc is 1.5 hours north of Brno, Mikulov 45 minutes south of the Moravian capital.
Railway
From Munich, you can reach Mikulov via Vienna and Břeclav in seven hours, Olomouc via Vienna and Prerov in just over nine hours - a bike card for abroad is required to take bikes, which costs nine euros and includes a parking space reservation. The journey from Berlin via Prague to Olomouc takes 7.5 hours, to Mikulov just under 10 hours.
Best time to travel
As only a few routes reach altitudes above 800 metres, you can ride a road bike in Moravia from May to mid-October. During the Czech summer holidays (July/August), it can get very crowded in some areas. It is particularly beautiful in autumn when the leaves change colour and Federweißer (Burčák) is sold in the south.
Accommodation
Olomouc
Long Story Short
A historic building on the outside, renovated on the inside with bright, chic rooms. There are many different types of accommodation: There are (very cool) dormitories, small holiday flats and rooms. Some come with cooking facilities, others with free-standing bathtubs or leather sofas. Double rooms start at around 70 euros, breakfast costs around 6 euros extra.
Mikulov
Hotel Ryzlink
Modern hotel in a noble vineyard on the outskirts of the city. The rooms are minimalist, kitsch-free and spacious. By the way, Ryzlink is simply the Czech spelling of Riesling. The hotel also offers wine-based wellness treatments. Double room with full breakfast from 71 euros.
Food & Drink
While the Czech Republic is a country of beer drinkers, people in South Moravia love wine. The most important grape varieties around Mikulov include Grüner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Welschriesling and Chardonnay. The final brandy is also important, mostly plum-based, but also distilled as a type of grappa in the south. The cuisine is hearty and meat-centred. Roasts, goulash and sausages are on almost every menu. Side dishes are dumplings. The classics also include garlic or sauerkraut soup, gratinated cheese with cranberries, as well as pastries (kolatschen, plum or poppy seed dumplings) and cakes. While there is a large selection of restaurants in the student city of Olomouc and also in Mikulov, you should not necessarily rely on finding an open restaurant in the countryside. Small supermarkets and petrol stations come to the rescue.
Restaurant tips
Olomouc
Long Story Short Eatery & Bakery
This stately building once housed an army bakery, but today it is home to a hostel and a chic restaurant that stands out from traditional pubs. The cuisine is imaginative, fresh and characterised by regional ingredients.
Mikulov
Pivnice Golem at Hotel Tanzberg
A combination of cosy beer pub and Jewish-inspired restaurant that also meets the demands of gourmets. The famous rabbi, scholar and inventor of the Golem, Judah Löw, lived here from 1553 to 1573.
Don't miss it!
Brno
Anyone travelling in Moravia should not miss out on the second largest city in the Czech Republic. Brno (German: Brünn) is a lively, young metropolis with plenty of culture and cool pubs. Important track races have been held there since the 1930s. Riders from all over the world gather for the annual Brno Grand Prix in June. However, the Brno velodrome, the oldest cycling track in Europe, will not be around for much longer. It no longer meets today's standards and is to be replaced by a new building; info here. In the centre of Brno (Pellicova 5) there is also the Asphalt Cycling Laba shop and café founded by bike enthusiasts, designers and photographers.
Bike service
Olomouc
Kolarna
MTB, cross bikes, gravel and racing bikes - Kolarna has everything on offer and is also involved in racing.
Mikulov
Okolo
The beautiful and well-equipped shop specialises in high-end racing bikes and gravel bikes.
Maps
For Olomouc "Střední Morava", 1:100,000, Kartografie Praha 2011, around 2 euros on site. For Mikulov "Zahrada Evropy", 1:25,000, published by Geodézie On Line from Česká Lípa 2017, 8 euros, just over 5 euros on site.
Info
Moravia
Moravia, Morava in Czech, is a region in the east of the Czech Republic. At the beginning of the 11th century, the Moravian Kingdom became a land of the Bohemian Crown and eventually part of the Habsburg Monarchy. In the Czech Republic, Morava is a historical landscape, but not a separate administrative unit. Moravia is characterised by various low mountain ranges and plains with intensive agriculture. In the centre is the Morava river basin. The highest peak is the 1,490 metre-high Altvater in the Sudetes. To the south lies the Low Jeseníky plateau (400 to 600 metres), which rises to the Beskids. The White Carpathians lie on the border with Slovakia. We have chosen two historical locations: Olomouc (Olmütz), situated in the floodplains of the Morava River, which was the centre of Moravia until the 17th century, and Mikulov (Nikolsburg), close to the border with Lower Austria.
Hilly north, flat south
In the mid-mountainous north of Moravia, short, sometimes steep ramps alternate with longer climbs, while in the south you roll over undulating terrain without any gradients worth mentioning; only in the Pálava Karst Mountains do you occasionally have to shift into the lower gears. Unfortunately, the surface of many small roads in Moravia often leaves a lot to be desired. Although the regions have recently developed numerous cycle paths, most of which are well marked, they often turn into gravel. If you want to be more flexible, you should opt for a gravel bike. Even if there is little traffic on our routes, with rare exceptions, you should be careful. Many car drivers are travelling very fast and slow down late. We had a very unpleasant encounter with a bus driver on a winding, almost empty country road, for whom we were obviously a red flag. And another warning: the colour pink, which is popular with racing cyclists, is a thorn in the side of some homophobic country folk. If you want to avoid stupid comments, you should avoid it.
TOUR 1
Through the Lower Gesenke
94 kilometres | 900 vertical metres | max. 17 % gradient
From Olomouc through the Morava valley to Šternberk, then uphill to the plateau in the Low Jeseníky. The solitude of the landscape can be felt on a cycle path near Dalov, where the tarmac comes and goes. If you have a gravel bike, you should continue on cycle path 6144 to Moravsky Beroun, we choose the main roads 45 and 46. We take a detour back on small roads. Resting tip: Moravský Beroun (41.2 km), Restaurace R Club.
TOUR 2
To Lipník
96 kilometres | 900 | max. 10 % gradient
From Olomouc along the Libava military training area, a good, then a concrete slab road leads into the hills. Through villages to the medieval town centre of Lipník nad Bečvou. Tip: A ten kilometre long (there and back) but steep detour climbs up to Helfštýn Castle. Cycle paths and small roads lead back to Olomouc through undulating terrain. Resting tip: Lipník nad Bečvou, Café 49
TOUR 3
Through the World Heritage Site to three reservoirs
98 kilometres | 390 vertical metres | max. 6 % gradient
From Mikulov on cycle paths and small roads along fish ponds into the park landscape of the Lednice and Valtice chateau areas. At the pond castle (Rybniční zámeček), cycle 100 metres up the slope to get back to the road and Lednice Castle. Then on a bumpy cycle path to Bulhary and small roads to the Nové Mlýny reservoirs - part of the route runs on a dam right by the water. Resting tip: Container Cafe in Zmrzlina Hrušovany (km 70.8).
TOUR 4
Pálava Mountains and Triumphal Arch
62 kilometres | 400 vertical metres | max. 7 % gradient
Cycle along cycle paths and small roads through the Pálava Karst Mountains to the wine-growing area of Velké Bílovice. It is worth taking a detour there (six kilometres there and back; turn left at the end of the village and left again after 1.5 km) to the small wineries in the north of the village. Then cycle to Lednice Castle (as on tour 3). Shortly after the fish pond in the south of the town, we turn off the country road onto a gravel path, which after a few kilometres takes us through the forest to the triumphal arch or hunting lodge "Rendez-vous". We then reach Valtice, where the older castle of the Princes of Liechtenstein is located - well worth a visit! The route leads through small villages back to the Sedlec cycle route, which Tour 3 follows out of Mikulov. Rest tip (35.5 km): Zámecký Hotel Lednice.
