Road bike tour Scotland: Experience low-traffic panoramic roads and cultural heritage

Your breath catches for a moment. What a view! The sun is reflected in the seawater - the road stretches up the opposite side of the slope like the track of a rollercoaster. Now, in the rush of speed during the descent, you just have to remember: Stay left. We are in Scotland - there you drive on the other side of the road. The north of the British Isles is synonymous with rugged landscapes and changeable weather. But now the temperatures are as mild as in spring in the Mediterranean and the views are as lovely as on Highway No. 1 in California - probably the world's most popular coastal road. Welcome to Arran - an island with not much more than two mountains, which has one of the most beautiful and recommended cycle routes in the north of the United Kingdom. Although the word "united" is a bit of a misnomer - Scotland and England have been more separate than united for centuries. The Protestant south with its capital London rules, the north resists. To put it simply.

In the retreat of the cattle thieves

Anyone travelling by bike in the coastal region will get a sense of why resistance finds fertile ground here. The landscape demands a fighting spirit, the wind regularly blows against you, you can expect a cold shower from the sky at any time - and there are secluded retreats. Not only for robbers and cattle rustlers, like Rob Roy, once revered as a folk hero, but also for racing cyclists, who can find very low-traffic roads soon after leaving the conurbation around Glasgow. The biggest danger for continental Europeans is that the infrequent encounters mean you quickly forget to stay on the left-hand side of the road.

In our search for the finest routes in the area, we come across the Ayr Road Cycling Club from the region south of Glasgow. "Arran is simply a perfect adventure playground right on our doorstep. We call the island 'Scotland in miniature'," explains club member Martin Moench. As the name almost gives it away: he also has a German passport. The prospect of experiencing everything in one compact island tour makes us want to book a seat on the next ferry from Ardrossan. "I would say that the ferry journey itself is part of the experience," Moench tells us - and he is proved right. A mild breeze blows across the upper deck as we head for the harbour - and you can hardly believe your eyes: there are palm trees on the shore. At 56 degrees north latitude. The Gulf Stream in the nearby Atlantic makes it possible.

Castles, mountains, whiskey

The small town of Brodick with the island's ferry harbour is bustling, and a large supermarket offers everything you need for a tour of the island. "Arran combines Scotland's geography as a whole: hilly in the north, rather flat in the centre, undulating in the south, it offers the full programme - that's why the island is so attractive for cyclists," was the description from our tipster. We decide to tackle the "Scotland short programme" from the ferry port in a northerly direction. We roll along the winding, tree-lined coastal road, past small boat harbours and picturesque wooden cottages. Before we reach the only tarmac culvert on the A841 to the north: Boguille lies in the middle of heathland between two ridges, with great views of the Firth of Clyde estuary.

On the other side, a drive takes us to a small bay with the remains of the walls of Lochranza Castle. On the way, we stop at the Lochranza Distillery. Whiskey is part of Scottish culture. An employee explains to us how the grain mash is distilled into the beguiling spirit. We resist the offer of a tasting; the narrow and winding Scottish roads, the fast ups and downs and the left-hand traffic demand a lot from us even when sober. We pedal southwards close to the sea, past stone walls and flocks of sheep, before the waves of the landscape on the south coast await us: Like ladders to heaven, they are carved straight ahead into the blue over Scotland.

"You get a perfect mix there - some climbs, great descents, undulating terrain and flat sections where you can push a big gear," Moench had told us - and it wasn't a word too much of a promise. We resist the idea of doing an additional loop via the Ross Road from Glenkiln: "Really steep in places," Moench had warned, "it's a real leg stinger. We leave the little road to the left and treat ourselves to a quick coffee on the way back to Brodick. We have to catch the next ferry.

Stirling: centre of gravity

We make our way to Stirling with its mighty castle complex, around 50 kilometres by bike north of Glasgow city centre, where we want to stay. Stirling was once the Scottish capital, the centre of the Jacobite uprisings in the 18th century; in the Church of the Holy Rude, Mary Stuart's son was crowned King of Scotland as James VI.

The mighty walls of Stirling Castle at the top of the hill above the town of 35,000 inhabitants are a landmark for cyclists in the area and signalled the 2023 Road World Championships: It's not far to the finish of the individual time trial - even if Remco Evenepoel and Chloe Dygert still had to tackle the cobbled road to the castle gate as a final feat of strength on the way to their World Championship titles. From here, we set off on a route that combines the best of the region: On the B8032 over undulating terrain past hedges and stone walls westwards, through the enchanted-looking stream valley of the Eas Gobhain to the finish and turning point of our tour. "My insider tip: Loch Katrine is the birthplace of tourism in Scotland.

The trip by steamer and then back along the lake by bike - very few routes in Scotland offer so much variation!" Markus Stitz, cycle tour expert from Germany and adopted home of Edinburgh, had lured us to this corner. Rob Roy MacGregor was born in the 17th century on the shores of today's reservoir, which secures Glasgow's drinking water supply - and if you roll far enough into the valley below the peaks of Ben Aan and Ben Venue, over short ramps and sometimes somewhat daring, damp descents, past waterfalls, rushing streams and sheep drifting away, then the thought of the bird-free man from the MacGregor clan, who was born here in Glengyle, will make you think in solitude.

We skip the steamer trip and make our way back in the saddle. In the days that followed, we battled our way northwards into the Highlands under a deep grey sky and wet with fine drizzle. Moench had warned us: "In Scotland, the weather plays a huge role in whether you can really enjoy the views, climbs and descents." The weather had spoilt us for the past few days at the beginning of August. But on the way to Cainwell Pass, of all places, where at 670 metres you reach the highest point of a public road in the entire United Kingdom, we are caught out by rain for the first time. "For me, the region is the best Scotland has to offer for road cyclists - the highest road, a wonderful panorama with some of the highest mountains and, in between, a mix of rivers meandering through the valleys, small and large lakes and native forest," Stitz had recommended the trip to the north. And then added: "I've travelled a lot around the world. I've never found the magical landscape of the southern Cairngorms anywhere else."

A detour into the history of hard rock

The military road with the "Devil's Elbow" hairpin bend, which was once elaborately and intricately carved into the hillside, has long since fallen into disrepair. A rather unfriendly tarmac straight stretches out in front of cyclists on the last few kilometres to Glenshee Ski Resort at the top of the pass. "It's derived from Gleann Sith - Valley of the Fairies," explains Stitz, who runs accommodation for cyclists in Alyth at the foot of the mountain range. The fairies don't mean well with us on this day. We plunge shivering down into the undulating foothills of the Cairngorms, where the weather is a little more favourable than in the cloudy Highlands. Passing Forter Castle, nothing more than a stone tower house, we reach Kirriemuir - the small Scottish town where Bon Scott, the legendary singer of the hard rock band AC/DC, is honoured as the most prominent ex-citizen with a statue and museum. The magic of the region has long since enchanted us, but our time in Scotland has run out. But we will be back - if only to get to know more than just mini versions of Scotland.

Journey

Travellers from the EU need a passport to enter the United Kingdom, including Scotland; an identity card is not sufficient. By train From Frankfurt am Main, for example, it takes at least twelve and a half hours with three changes (Brussels or Paris, London, Edinburgh) to our Stirling location. Bikes can only be carried (free of charge) in a bike bag or bike case; unpacked bikes are not permitted on long-distance trains on this route.

Flight

The closest airports to our Stirling location are Edinburgh (50 kilometres) and Glasgow (56 kilometres). Both are served by frequent and inexpensive flights from Germany, including direct flights within two hours. A hire car is generally helpful, but not absolutely necessary. Edinburgh Airport is connected to the ScotRail railway network (www.scotrail.co.uk): First you take the bus or tram into the city, then the train to Stirling - in just over an hour in total. In Glasgow, too, the Airport Express bus (www.firstbus.co.uk) takes you into the city first, then on to Stirling by ScotRail - in less than an hour in total.

Car

There are just over 1,400 kilometres by road between Frankfurt am Main and Stirling on the English Channel route. If you want to cover more distance by ship, you can reach the north-east of England either from Amsterdam (destination: Newcastle) or Rotterdam (destination: Hull). The shipping companies DFDS (www.dfds.com) and P&O (www. poferries.com) operate these routes.

Best time to travel

The climate in Scotland is relatively rainy and cool, and temperatures above 20 degrees are rare even in summer. However, the mild Gulf Stream ensures a long cycling season. The best time to visit is from June to September, with July and August being the warmest months. However, the latter is not recommended for travelling due to the many major events. September is attractive; the decline in midges, tiny but very annoying mosquitoes, also speaks in its favour.

Accommodation

Cheap accommodation is in short supply in Scotland. In addition, hotels offer free beds as if on a stock exchange - especially when bookings are made via larger platforms such as booking.com. The prices, which are already quite high, fluctuate wildly, are not fixed for the period and change almost daily. Our tips:

Stirling Castle Walk Bed & Breakfast

Phone 0044/(0)7598029732 www.stirlingcastlewalk.co.uk Newly renovated, eight beautifully furnished rooms, right next to the medieval town wall. Less than ten minutes' walk to the railway station. Double room with breakfast in summer from around 190 euros.

Alyth

90 kilometres north-east of Stirling, close to our Tour 4 to the Highlands, Forillion www.bikepackingscotland.com The house of our local tour expert, the German Markus Stitz, has three bedrooms for a maximum of six guests, two bathrooms, a living room, a fully equipped kitchen and a bicycle shed. For a minimum rental period of three nights, the house costs the equivalent of around 170 euros per day.

Food and drink

We fell in love with the calorie bomb Millionaire's Shortbread, biscuits covered in caramel and chocolate. For cyclists, restaurants with Asian cuisine are particularly recommended. On the routes westwards from Stirling, the supermarkets in Lennoxtown (Tour 2) and Aberfoyle (Tour 3) are a good place to stock up on provisions. On Arran, Brodick is the only lively place with supermarkets right by the ferry harbour; the north of our tour area is comparatively lonely. Only in small towns such as Kirriemuir and Blairgowrie are there a few cafés, pubs and restaurants.

Restaurant tip Stirling: Rishis Indian Aroma

Phone 0044/(0)1786/357530 South Indian cuisine in cool Scotland at moderate prices.

Caffè Nero

www.caffenero.com Leather armchairs, relaxed atmosphere, good coffee; in Stirling's Old Town

Bike service

Lennoxtown Visual Bike Fit Phone 0044/(0)7707550660 www.visualbikefit.com Glengarnock RT Cycles & Fishing Phone 0044/(0)7867790889 www.cyclerepairman.co.uk Carbon racers for the equivalent of 36 euros a day, 95 euros for five days. Delivery to accommodation or airport is possible.

Don't miss it!

Stirling

The Wallace Monument, Stirling Castle and the museum-like Old Town Jail are well worth a visit.

Whisky

We visited the Arran Distillery (www.arranwhisky.com) in Lochranza on the Isle of Arran and learnt a lot about whisky production.

Cycling events

Pedal Trossachs

31 August 2025 in Stirling. Three routes over 40, 80 and 160 kilometres to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. events.parkinsons.org.uk

Tour of the Kingdom Sportiv

North of Edinburgh, on 8 June 2025; two circuits over 95 and 147 kilometres. www.dunfermlinecc.com/sportive

Riding for good

Charity race series in favour of agricultural projects in Malawi; four cycling events from June to September. www.ridingforgood.uk

Map

Good paper maps from the Ordnance Survey, the UK's national land surveying authority, are readily available locally: OS Road 3 "Southern Scotland" (2024), 1:250,000 for eight pounds covers almost all of our tours. The stitch to the Cairnwell Pass (Tour 4) is supplemented: OS Landranger 43 "Braemar & Blair Atholl" (2021), 1:50,000; £13.

Orientation

Scotland is divided into three geographical regions: the largely unforested and unpopulated Highlands with the highest mountain in the British Isles, Ben Nevis (1,345 metres), the Central Lowlands, the lowlands with the cities of Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Perth and Stirling, and the mountainous region of the Southern Uplands. We have chosen Stirling in the Central Lowlands as our location.

The small town of 36,000 inhabitants is often referred to as the "Gateway to the Highlands", as this is where the rolling hills of the Scottish lowlands meet the steep slopes of the Highlands - an ideal terrain for varied tours; two of our tours start there. We have also extended the touring area: to the scenically beautiful Isle of Arran, 120 kilometres to the south-west, which is often referred to as a miniature version of Scotland, and 80 kilometres to the north-east to the small town of Blairgowrie and Rattray, from where we take a detour into the Grampian Mountains, also known as the Central Highlands due to their location; there we climb the highest tarmac public road in the United Kingdom to the Cairnwell Pass (670 metres).

Tour character Scotland

Driving on the left is the norm in Scotland. You quickly get used to it on large and wide roads, but when making sudden steering manoeuvres or on narrow cycle paths, you need to concentrate very hard if you don't want to swerve in the wrong direction.

Outside the conurbations of Edinburgh and Glasgow, there are several regions in Scotland with small, little-used side roads. The quality of the road surface can take some getting used to - wider tyres are definitely advisable. The area is largely treeless and susceptible to wind, so high-profile tyres are not necessarily the best choice. At first glance, the centre of Scotland doesn't seem terrifying topographically, but the rough tarmac, the wind and the steepness of many of the roads take the energy out of your legs. What's more, many areas are very sparsely populated - so you should make sure you stock up on food and drink well in advance.

Routes

The routes can be found here:

Tour 1 | Isle of Arran - island hopping | 126 kilometres | 1,500 metres in altitude

The mainland ferry ports in Ardrossan and Troon are easy to reach by train and bus (to check whether bikes are transported, visit www.scotrail.co.uk). The ferries to the Isle of Arran run several times a day - connections may be cancelled in bad weather and rough seas. Check the timetable well in advance: www.calmac.co.uk Our loop leads from Brodick ferry harbour northwards along the coast road. A small mountain pass with wonderful views awaits on the transfer from the east to the west coast at Lochranza. Apart from that, the route is largely flat at first, but quite hilly in the south. In Glenkiln we did a loop: via Ross Road, which climbs to 285 metres, to the west coast and String Road (234 metres) back to the east coast and Brodick harbour - with a longer climb over the island ridge in each case. If this is too long and strenuous, you can stay on the coast road to Brodick in Glenkiln, which saves 500 metres in altitude and 34 kilometres. Rest stops Whiting Bay (km 78.6), The Shore, phone 0044/1770700161, www.theshorearran.co.uk. As the name suggests, located directly on the coast. Great for a coffee stop, sandwiches or soup. The best seafood on the island is served at Mara (www.mara-arran.co.uk) in Corrie, which is only ten kilometres away. If you fancy it, head there after the tour.

Tour 2 | In the hills of the Campsie Fells | 117 kilometres | 1,500 vertical metres

It goes over the cyclists' local mountain around Glasgow. The Crow Road in the Campsie Fells is the longest ascent north of Glasgow, climbing 270 metres in altitude. We start from Stirling railway station on small and quiet side roads in a westerly direction and roll between hedgerows and stone walls, past the Lake of Menteith, until shortly before Aberfoyle. Then we head south, the five kilometre climb on the Old Drymen Road through the heathland is the first serious test of strength. After a wave ride to Lennoxtown, the route passes a wall of a house depicting former professional cyclist Robert Millar metres high, then up Crow Road and along parts of the 2023 World Championship route past the Carron Valley Reservoir back to Stirling.

Tour 3 | From hole to hole | 131 kilometres | 1,000 vertical metres

This round trip has it all - in terms of scenery and sporting challenge. Passing the Wallace Monument, Scotland's national shrine, we take a narrow and very steep road to the ridge above Stirling, where the view opens up to the distant Highlands. We then ride downhill through an enchanted stream valley to Bridge of Allan and continue on a low-traffic road towards Callandar and over a historic stone bridge past the picturesque Loch Venachar to the main attraction of the day: Loch Katrine. We circle the loch on a road that is closed to public traffic. But be careful: there are sometimes lots of pedestrians and the road is not in the best condition. But the view is worth it. Tip: If you have some energy left, you can make a detour at kilometre 78.1 via a dead-end road to Loch Lomond and the waterfalls above Inversnaid (there and back 14 kilometres and 150 metres in altitude). Return to Stirling via Aberfoyle and parts of the 2023 World Championship time trial route, stopping at Loch Katrine (57.0 kilometres): Steamship Café, www.lochkatrine.com/cafes. Nice place to stop for refreshments at the landing stage at the eastern end of Loch Katrine.

Tour 4 | Into the Grampian Mountains | 134 kilometres | 1,400 vertical metres

A nice, quiet loop with a test ride in the Highlands: From Blairgowrie and Rattray, we head north, soon turning left at a bridge onto a small country road - and finally eastwards back onto the main road to the 670 metre high Cairnwell Pass and the Glenshee ski centre. You can also skip the climb to the pass, the highest mountain pass crossed by a main road in the United Kingdom, as there are still crisp, albeit short, climbs to Kirriemuir and onwards via Alyth back to the starting point. Rest tip: Cairnwell Pass (Glenshee ski station at kilometre 50.2): Tea @ The Shee, www.ski-glenshee.co.uk/Tea-The-Shee-Cafe. Hot and cold dishes from breakfast, pies and soups to burgers, salads, sandwiches, snacks and cakes.