From helmets to shoes: Which items of kit can you wash, and how?

Visually, a cycling jersey usually comes out clean when washed at the recommended 40 degrees in the washing machine. However, the problem that eventually causes jerseys, jackets, helmets and shoes to start smelling is sweat bacteria. They settle in the warm, damp fabric and multiply rapidly there. And to dispel a myth straight away: the freezer does not kill the bacteria. A laboratory test carried out with the company Vermicon has shown that, although the bacteria briefly enter a state of cold-induced torpor, they become active again as soon as the fabric reaches body temperature.

Just pop it in the washing machine?

Washing temperatures of 60 degrees or higher, on the other hand, reliably kill the bacteria; the only problem is that functional clothing containing elastane – which is often expensive – can only be washed at 40 degrees. This means that although the laundry looks clean, it will soon start to smell musty again because the bacteria in the fabric continue to multiply unchecked.

That’s why we asked a number of manufacturers for alternatives: what’s the most effective way to clean your kit – from helmet to shoes – without damaging the material? Here are the experts’ washing instructions:

Helmet: Simply wipe any dirt off the outer shell with a damp cloth. Salt stains on the straps can be washed off under the tap using a mild soap (such as shampoo). Things get a bit trickier with the inner padding. To prevent it from developing an unpleasant odour prematurely, never put your gloves inside the helmet or leave the helmet in a bag for days on end (a breeding ground for bacteria!). If the padding is attached with Velcro, you can remove it and wash it with shampoo. There are also care foams available specifically for helmet inner padding. For example, from Muc-Off, Dr Wack and Motorex.

Glasses: Rinse off any coarse dirt under the tap (ideally at a water temperature of 37 degrees). For greasy deposits, you can use a little washing-up liquid. Then polish dry with a microfibre cloth. Do not use a jersey or kitchen roll, as these are too rough and may scratch the glasses!

Gloves: Please follow the manufacturer’s care instructions, as the washing temperature depends on the proportion of gel padding and leather in the gloves. Generally speaking, however, cycling gloves can be machine-washed at 30 degrees, ideally in a laundry bag. Important: Do not wring them out and do not place them on a radiator!

Jerseys and shorts: Our laboratory tests have shown that clothing fabrics are already teeming with bacteria and chemicals straight from the factory. Trousers, jerseys, underwear and socks should therefore be washed before wearing them for the first time. To prevent sweat-related bacteria from becoming embedded for as long as possible, here are two important tips: 1. Always dry your clothes thoroughly after use. Ideally in the sun (UV light). 2. Wash at 40 degrees using an enzyme-based detergent. Fabrics without elastane can also be washed at 60 degrees.

Shoes: Can the sole and seams withstand a machine wash? As long as they don’t contain any leather, you can put shoes in a laundry bag and wash them on a gentle cycle. However, this will invalidate the manufacturer’s warranty. Over time, this can cause the adhesive between the upper and the sole to come loose. It’s therefore better to simply brush off any dirt from the outside and wipe them down with a damp sponge. If the shoes don’t have a Gore-Tex membrane, you can also rinse them out occasionally. Afterwards, stuff them with newspaper and leave them to dry upright at room temperature. Don’t place them on the radiator – the shoes could become hard and warp! Some people swear by putting their shoes in the dishwasher. Again, this will void the manufacturer’s warranty.

Rain jacket: Perhaps the trickiest issue of all. If you put your usually expensive jacket in the washing machine, the DWR treatment away. If, on the other hand, you don’t wash the jacket, dust and sweat will block the pores and the breathability will be lost. Manufacturers therefore recommend the following: if used intensively (but who rides in the rain all the time?!), you can put your rain jacket in the washing machine 5–6 times a year, making sure it isn’t too full. Close all zips and loosen any drawstrings to prevent the membrane from being scratched or damaged. Use liquid detergent and wash at a maximum of 30 degrees. No spin cycle, no fabric softener. Tumble dry (30 minutes, 60 degrees) or leave to air dry. Afterwards, use an iron (set to a low temperature) to refresh the waterproofing. If the rain no longer beads off, a waterproofing spray will help. Its effect is further enhanced by the tumble dryer and the iron.