Advice: Short-sleeved jerseys

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· 26.06.2007

Is it the red one, the smooth one, the thin one, the one from the marathon? Almost everyone has a favourite jersey. It's often a memento, or it simply goes well with the bike. But if you don't know what makes this jersey a star, it could be the sum of many little things. Seen up close, the supposedly banal short-sleeved jersey is actually a very sophisticated piece of clothing. Pay attention to the subtleties - so that it becomes a favourite jersey the next time you buy it. (TOUR 3/2007)

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THE MATERIAL

The collar label almost always states "100% polyester" or "100% PES" - which means the same thing. Polyester fibres are spun into yarn and processed into various knitted fabrics. Their properties differ depending on the fibre thickness, fibre structure (Coolmax fibres, for example, have furrows in the longitudinal direction) and type of knitting. The fibre thickness or structure of a jersey cannot be determined by sight, but the type of knit can. Fabrics that are labelled as "two-ply" differ on the inside and outside: the structure on the inside is somewhat coarser than on the outside. Due to capillary forces, perspiration is absorbed particularly quickly from the coarse to the fine gaps - away from the skin and towards the outer surface, where it evaporates in the cooling wind instead of lying soaking wet on the skin.

THE CUT
In favour of aerodynamics, physiology and vanity, road bike jerseys should fit close to the body. Because the usual polyester knits without lycra/spandex/elastane are not as elastic as cycling shorts, the cut must fit the figure better. For orientation: Many clothing manufacturers offer their jerseys in three model categories, which differ in their width. The main difference in the cut of the various jerseys can be seen at the shoulder: in a raglan cut, the sleeve starts at the collar and the sleeve seams run from the collar to the armpit. The straight sleeve is a type of T-shirt cut.

Jerseys with raglan sleeves usually have fewer creases around the shoulders when you are racing. Tip: Try on cycling jerseys on the bike if possible. This also shows the extent of the wrinkles in the neck, which are difficult to avoid. Many clothing manufacturers tailor for average figures, not for trained cyclists. This is why the jersey can often be chosen one size smaller than the trousers.

THE WOMEN
Specialised women's jerseys almost always fit the female silhouette better than a men's jersey. However, these models are rarely really adapted to the needs of women cyclists. The standard flaw: only a single, small back pocket. Women's jerseys are often made from supposedly comfortable, very stretchy fabrics. However, their material offers little resistance to loaded back pockets. In addition, there are sometimes playful collars that may appear sexy, but do not close tightly enough at the neck to keep wasps out, for example. Despite everything, the number of functional - and not just decorative - women's jerseys has increased significantly in recent years.

THE PROFESSIONALS
The most striking thing about professional jerseys is their tight fit. Sometimes the team jerseys are not identical to the replicas offered as "professional jerseys" (see also interview). Some teams have them customised for their riders, and some also use materials with a higher proportion of Lycra to improve aerodynamics by fitting close to the body. However, even the professionals, who ride with standard "S" and "M" clothing, can only serve as role models for amateur athletes to a limited extent: If the jersey bought too small for aero reasons is too tight around the stomach, you can no longer reach the back pockets because they sit too high...

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Advice: Short-sleeved jerseys

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