TOUR
· 16.05.2025
When the day X for the big - and in this case long - race has arrived, all the questions about equipment should be answered. Am I prepared for a thunder shower? Do I have the right tools with me if the tyre loses air? What is the best thing to eat or drink during the upcoming 256 kilometres?
Below we show you tips for the right equipment for a cycling marathon. From the right cycling clothing to the Optimum breakdown packing list for the saddlebag up to a few tips on the Proper nutrition for cycling races.
To make it easier for partners or team colleagues to find each other in the sea of thousands of cycling helmets, a helmet in a signal colour acts like a lighthouse and you can keep an eye on each other better than with helmets in subtle colours. A visor cap under the helmet prevents drops of sweat from clouding the lenses, while a cap made of functional fibres prevents your forehead and ears from freezing.
In stable sunshine, glasses with a suitable, slightly darker tint should be worn as UV protection; in changeable and perhaps even rainy weather, a clear visor or even a yellowish filter with a brightening effect is recommended. If you want to remain flexible, choose goggles with self-tinting lenses that adapt to changing light conditions.
Arm warmers are a must for every marathon runner, as your bare arms, which are exposed to the wind, quickly start to freeze. If you get cold hands and clammy fingers easily, you should have long-fingered gloves or thin, windproof overgloves with you. Freezing hands impair safety because you can no longer brake and steer in a controlled manner.
The gilet is and remains the first choice as compact protection against cold winds and short showers. A water-repellent or waterproof jacket offers more protection, but requires more storage space and more time to put on and take off.
Knee warmers have a small pack size and offer protection for the knees, for example when waiting in the starting block, during the cool morning hours or on long downhill runs. Models with a windproof and water-repellent membrane keep you particularly warm and dry, but are slightly less elasticated and tend to chafe or pinch in the hollow of the knee.
If the weather forecast predicts continuous rain, water-repellent or waterproof overshoes are the first choice at the start line. If the sun and rain alternate, water-repellent oversocks have proven their worth.
Wind waistcoat, jacket, arm warmers: Each item should have its fixed place in the jersey pockets. The collar of the waistcoat or jacket should be turned up and the zip should be open; for arm warmers or leg warmers, the outer one should be turned inside out.
In the event of a puncture, you can usually just take the bus or, in the worst case, a taxi. In a cycling race, especially a long-distance race, you should at least be prepared for the most common faults and be able to fix them quickly. A saddle bag offers almost all the necessary equipment - a mini workshop.
As big as necessary, as small as possible: The Micro Two with roll closure and 0.5 litre volume from Ortlieb for around 25 euros has proven itself as an absolutely waterproof model.
Fortunately, this is rarely needed nowadays - but is therefore often forgotten in the saddle bag. It should always be checked for leaks and that the size, width and valve length match the tyres and wheels currently fitted (rim height!): e. B. Conti Race 28, approx. 9 euros.
The sealing milk in tubeless tyres is no insurance against every puncture. For this reason, the appropriate sealing kit with tools is part of the standard equipment. How this works should be practised before the first sharp use, z. e.g. Maxalami Basic Tube, repair set, approx. 13 euros.
In the past, tyres could almost always be pressed over the rim flange with manual force and skill, but this is often no longer possible with current tyres for tubeless or tubless-ready rims. It is therefore advisable to do a relaxed dry run at home beforehand. This will quickly reveal whether the tyre levers are stiff enough for the real thing, e.g. Pedro's tyre lever, plastic, approx. 6 euros.
Sometimes you don't have any luck - then bad luck comes along and the breakdown devil catches you out several times. That's when the emergency helper comes into play, consisting of a pile of adhesive patches: e.g. from Scicon, Topeak or Parktool for approx. 5 euros.
The cartridge adapter for inflating should have an adjustment valve that is easy to grip and large enough to be operated even with clammy fingers or long-fingered gloves. Tip: Be sure to practise and remember how to use it regularly. Otherwise, in the event of a puncture, the CO2 will fizz into the atmosphere instead of into the hose: z. e.g. from Eltin, approx. 10 euros
The selection of mini tools is huge. You should try out the multi-tool in your saddlebag beforehand on all relevant screw connections on the gears, handlebars or pedals so that the right spanner sizes and blades for the Torx or Phillips screws are on board in an emergencye.g. Crank Brothers Multi 19, approx. 36 Euro
Although it rarely happens, a sealing ring on the valve core that has become porous and hard over the years can occasionally be the cause of air loss. A new valve core weighs nothing and hardly takes up any space - possibly a real lucky charm in the breakdown kit if you pay attention to the next point.
If the valve insert is not firmly seated, it can come loose when the pump head is unscrewed or removed: The compressed air that was previously pumped into the tyre with great effort then escapes again. To prevent this from happening - and to replace a defective valve core - the small valve spanner with a five millimetre spanner width should be in every saddlebag. Valves plus spanner in a set, e.g. from Schwalbe, approx. 5 euros.
As with tools, there is a huge selection of mini pumps, and the differences in pumping performance can be significant. Very slim pumps (piston diameter up to 20 millimetres) enable high tyre pressures of up to 7 bar, but require several hundred pump strokes to achieve this. Thicker models with telescopic cylinders create more volume - but with less pressure. Clever, relatively new idea: pump-cartridge combos with ergonomic handle and flexible pump hose that sits securely on the valve, e.g. Giant Control Mini Pro CO2, around 40 euros.
Pre-race pasta party, Mars bars for the hunger pangs on the last climb, apple spritzer, but with a pinch of salt? We probably all know these tips. We'll tell you what the optimum nutrition strategy is for a cycling marathon.
If you want to stand in the starting block of the marathon optimally nourished, you should plan your diet well the days before. It is important to fill your glycogen stores, the supply of carbohydrates in the liver and muscle cells. Carboloading has proven to be effective. This refers to the targeted increase in carbohydrate stores in order to have more energy available during prolonged exercise. To do this, the glycogen store is completely "emptied" during intensive training, followed by units of lower intensity with simultaneous intake of large quantities of carbohydrates, even on the non-training rest day immediately before the marathon.
The rule of thumb is: you're likely to start feeling hungry just 90 minutes after the start. That's why it's important to actively replenish your energy levels before you start to feel hungry. Gels and bars have proven to be small and powerful sources of energy, whereby you should have already found your favourite bars or gels in terms of taste, tolerance and handling during training, instead of stocking up on unknown power bars or gels on the evening before the start. On the way, you can also enjoy a classic banana or a boiled potato with salt, as a good flavour can also boost performance.
As soon as you get off your bike, it's time to refuel, because the body needs replenishment to repair and build muscle cells: Above all, minerals, protein and high-quality fats should be part of your diet. Super suitable and easy to prepare: Muesli with yoghurt and fresh fruit and a dash of linseed oil.